You only need two sprockets one for the rear drive axel and one for the front. Choose the same size for both. I used a 25# chain rated at 100 to 499 lbs working load rate. The front axel was chucked up in a drill press after determining the correct length and a file was used to get the dog bone look. The pins in the axel are 5/64 coil roll pins. A coil roll pin is just what it sounds like: it's coiled up, whereas a standard roll pin is just a single "O" shape. Shaft collars hold the front axel in place and keep it from moving from side to side. The rear axel has a shaft collar on the outside as well. You can use pins or set screws to hold the chain sprockets in place. If you use set screws you must have a flat spot on the shaft so that the screw has something to bite on. If you like to use pins, make the pins as small as possible: 5/64 at the most on ¼ shafts. Tires can be no more than 4½ tall and no more than 2¾ wide So that leaves 8¾ to work with in the width per the rules: "max vehicle width is 11½". The width must include all parts of the truck weight rack, body, hitch, etc. So to stay with the scale appearing themes, I chose to use a 2.2 tire. Tamyia makes a 4 piece set of midnight pumpkin tires that fit on stampede rear wheels. I chose to use the hub part of tamyia clod buster wheels. They fit inside the wheels with about 1/8 to spare and no more. Just use the brass hub pieces instead of the plastic ones you get with the rims. If you have any questions about what we have covered so far, just ask away. That's all until next month. In part 3, I will cover the motor mount, hitch, and lighting of the chassis. Till then, Full Pull!

Back to part one.
On to part III.