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Bosnian Bulletin #4

December 17, 1998

It's difficult to believe that the Christmas season is upon us, but the little street sellers' tables are now full of brightly colored ropes of garland, lights, and all different shapes of ornaments.  No familiar Christmas tunes, but we do have snow!

The last month and a half have been rather full of activity for us.  In addition to the usual, we made two trips to visit our fellow MCCers and check out MCC programming in the region.

Our first trip was to Sarajevo over Thanksgiving weekend.  We fell in love with Sarajevo.  I think we were surprised at how very different it is from Banja Luka.  For one thing, while Banja Luka had no "front line battle" in it during the war, it was extensively ethnically cleansed.  All of the 37 mosques were destroyed.  Minority population (Croats, Muslims and other) is about 4% in Banja Luka.  It is a city of the worker and still has a strong Communist feel about it.  Sarajevo on the other hand, was under siege for 4 years.  Its large Muslim population contributes to the wide variety of hand-made goods (metal work, weavings, wood carvings, etc.) that are sold in the old Turkish part of town, Bas Carsija (BAHSH CHAHR-shee-ah).  The mountains surrounding the city, the mosques piercing the skyline and the red-tile roofs make it a beautiful city.  It has an abundance of artists and culture and the people we met were warm and friendly and eager to communicate with us.

We had a wonderful time with Amy Gopp and enjoyed meeting her friends and seeing her work at Oci U Oci (O-chee OO O-chee; Face to Face), an inter-religious peace center.  Amy sings in an inter-religious choir, a program of Oci U Oci, composed of Orthodox, Catholic, Muslim, Jewish and Protestant singers!  We were able to join them for two rehearsals and fellowship that followed.  They are a wonderful group of people.

On December 4-9, we traveled to Belgrade to visit Harold Otto and MCC's partner organization, Hleb Zivota (HLEB zhee-VO-tah; Bread of Life). Belgrade has a real "big city" feel.  Like Banja Luka, it also has a strong former communist feel to it.  We've heard it called a "cement jungle" and we understand why!  We thoroughly enjoyed walking around the city, browsing through bookstores(!), spending time with Sandra (our first language teacher and good friend) and attending a performance of "Fiddler on the Roof" in Serbian (of course!).  We enjoyed seeing Beba Varga and Jasmina Tosic again after having met them at MCC Summer Retreat in Slovenia.  They are the co-directors of Bread of Life and are truly inspiring women of faith. The office is a hub of activity with a second-hand shop, a meeting room and a work area filled with people.  We found it energizing to be there.

Now back in Banja Luka, we're in our routine, again.  We go to IOCC in the mornings and try to participate in things there, but unfortunately, have very little to do so far!  We are deep into the "what-is-our-role-here-as-MCCers" syndrome.  It's frustrating, draining and often depressing.  We are really feeling the "pioneering pains" of this new MCC partnership with IOCC in Republika Srpska.

We continue to study the language but are still unable to understand people (except for small talk) or put together thoughts to speak.  We know it will be a long time before we can really converse with people.  The people from our little church are very supportive of our learning and are eager to help us.  One woman, Boba, is going to begin tutoring us.  She is a teacher and very knowledgeable about the language AND speaks little English so we will HAVE TO learn to communicate in local language.  (For those of you still keeping track, we've learned 6 of the 7 cases and 3 of the 7 tenses.  If only knowing the grammar allowed us to communicate!)

Our Christmas plans include:  The 23rd -26th at Katie and Gerhard Neufeld's (MCC, Ivanic grad, Croatia).  Together we'll find a small, family-like way to celebrate to distract us from the celebrations were missing back home. Then on the 26th we will travel to Tramelan, Switzerland to the MCC Europe office for a time of rest, reflection, discussion, evaluation and fellowship.  We're really looking forward to this opportunity to process our thoughts and feelings with them.  We'll return to BL sometime around the New Year -just in time for all the holidays here (including Orthodox Christmas on Jan 7).  We're eager to see what the holidays will be like here in BL!

While this Christmas will be quite different from what were used to, we're thankful for the opportunity to be here in Bosnia and experience a bit of people's lives here.  This Christmas season, our lives are filled with the joy of new friends and new experiences.  Our hearts are also with all of you and our thoughts of home.  We hope your Christmas season is filled with the joy and wonder of Jesus' birth, and many warm and happy moments with loved ones.  MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

Love and peace,  Karin & John

John and Karin Kaufman Wall
c/o IOCC
Karadjordjeva 227
78000 Banja Luka
Republika Srpska
BOSNIA
jandk@inecco.net

"In Bosnia we say YES to food, and NO to war!" -Zoran, our landlord


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