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Bosnian Bulletin #17

July 14, 2000

Dear Friends and Family,

Greetings from Sarajevo in the middle of a heat wave!!  Temperatures here have been hovering around 40 C (104 F) for the past couple of weeks.  The news has reported more the 40 heat-related deaths throughout South Eastern Europe.  The heat and lack of rain has contributed to many forest fires in Bosnia and neighboring Croatia.  Farmers' fields are dry and they have very little opportunity to irrigate.  If substantial rain doesn't come, they may not get another cutting of hay and their corn crops will suffer greatly.  For many people subsistence farming is their livelihood so they depend on rain to have enough to make it through the winter.  Today is cooler and cloudy and we are praying the heat will break and that it will rain soon.  Bosnians don't remember this kind of heat and fear that this will be an annual trend.

Work at Face to Face Interreligious Service has been slow.  But, after the busy year we've had, we're happy for a little rest.  Generally speaking, everything here slows down in summer.  The people who are able to, take vacations or visit relatives, etc.  We try to lay low in this heat -especially during the afternoons and eat lots of ice cream (there are stands on every corner)!!

I (Karin) recently had an interesting encounter on a visit to a small city named Foca.  Before the war, the city was predominantly Muslim and during the war there was horrible ethnic cleansing, mass murders, rape camps, etc.  It is now part of the Republika Srpska (the Serbian entity) and has been renamed "Srbinj".  I traveled there with a group of Catholic theological students from Sarajevo (the students from the Islamic faculty had to cancel at the last minute) to meet with students from the Serbian Orthodox theological school there.  This was the second time the group had met.  The first time was at the Franciscan Catholic theological seminary here in Sarajevo.  The idea is to open up dialogue between the groups, therefore reduce misunderstanding, mistrust, and fear, and to look for ways to cooperate.  The whole day was very interesting.  At one of the several coffee breaks, I sat down next to a Serbian Orthodox priest.  We talked briefly about the school and then, noticing my accent, he asked where I was from.  Upon telling him I am American, he began to talk about damages done by NATO bombings in Yugoslavia.  He became visibly agitated and began pointing his questions directly at me.  I told him I was painfully aware of what my country had done there and that I didn't agree with it and that's why I was there.  I tried to explain to him that I am a Mennonite and that I don't believe in violence as a solution.  I told him I had come to help people out of God's love and I hoped that he could see me as a child of God and not just as an American.  He responded that "you sects all speak of love, love, love, but what about truth?".  It's important to understand that Christian churches other than Catholic and Orthodox are considered sects or cults or heretics in this region.  I knew he would not be inclined to see me as an equal.  He continued to talk to me about the atrocities in Yugoslavia.  I listened as carefully as I could and when he stopped briefly, I asked him if he thought he could forgive me as a person who was truly sorry for what my country had done.  For the first time in the conversation, he was at a loss for words.  Finally, he offered "...well, yes, of course" and added "but I cannot account for your salvation!"  I told him I'd leave that to God.  Coffee break was over and we joined the group for the remainder of the day's program.  Our conversation had been difficult but I hoped that it had been a positive experience for him with a reformed Christian, with an American.  Perhaps it was the first.  As we prepared to leave for Sarajevo, I went to say good-bye to him and thank him for our conversation.  To my wonder, he took my hand and said "until next time, Sister".  A gracious gift of healing and understanding. 

Another highlight for us since I last wrote, was the peacemaking seminar that we attended in Northern Ireland.  It was a week long "summer school" on issues related to peacemaking.  MCC sponsored us and a group of individuals from all over the Balkans to attend.  We spent a couple days with that group in Belfast hosted by Mediation Network (affiliated with MCC) learning more about that conflict and visiting groups there that are working in areas similar to those we work in here in the Balkans.  It was a very valuable experience.  We then went on to the seminar on the northern coast at the Corrymeela community.  There were more than 100 participants from some 30 countries around the world -Northern Ireland, Kazakhstan, Russia, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Rwandan, South Africa, Congo, Kenya, Sudan, Sri Lanka, India, etc.  We were able to spend a lot of time learning together, talking together and fellowshipping together.  For our main course of study, John participated in "Peacemaking in Chronically Divided Societies" and I participated in "Restorative (or Transformative) Justice.  We both came away with more knowledge, more perspective, more hope and a feeling of renewal.  MCC hopes to continue to develop the relationships with the group from the Balkans who attended.

And before this e-mail gets too long, I'll answer another Frequently Asked Question:

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What kind of food do you eat there?

I think what most people want to know by asking this question is, what are the traditional foods in Bosnia?  First of all, I would say it is a lot of meat and potatoes.  A special meal for guests would include roasting a whole animal (lamb or pig) on a spit over an open fire.  They then chop the whole thing into pieces with an axe (not exactly like carving a turkey!).  You might get a lot of bones and gristle in your piece, but the meat is quite tasty.  The bread is wonderful!  There are several different kinds -some with cornmeal, some baked in a very hot wood oven.  They would also probably serve cabbage or lettuce salad, tomatoes, pickled vegetables, boiled eggs, etc.

The "national" food however, is called cevapcici (che-VAP-chee-chee).  It's basically little sausages (without casing) fried or grilled and served on a big bun-like bread with onions and a homemade, soft cheese.  Quite greasy and heavy, but fast, cheap and yummy.  It's their equivalent to a hamburger.

The other most common food to buy on the street is called "pita" which means pie.  However, it doesn't resemble Greek pita bread or American pie!!  It is made with very thin layers of dough and filled with either that soft cheese, cheese and spinach, potatoes or meat.  It's baked.  I can proudly say I've learned to make this very time-consuming food from scratch!!

There are lots of other wonderful traditional dishes -stuffed peppers, onions, grape leaves, okra soup, Bosnian stew, etc.  Pizza is also very popular here, though they use ketchup instead of tomato sauce, dried or smoked meats instead of pepperoni and often crack an egg onto the center.

At home we cook all kinds of different foods.  We have requested spices from home and can make almost anything from our favorite cookbook "Extending the Table".

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Feel free to submit more questions to be answered in future Bulletins. :)

We know you must all be having busy summers and are spending more time outdoors than at your computers (judging by the reduced number of e-mails we receive!)  We hope you're having a wonderful summer.  And we hope to hear from you, too!

God's Love and Peace,

Karin & John

Face to Face Interreligious Service
Splitska 39
71000 Sarajevo
Bosnia-Herzegovina
home tel: 387 71 207 860
office tel/fax: 387 71 442 468
home:
jandk@bih.net.ba
office:
ociuoci@bih.net.ba
http://www.progressive-bih.com/ociuoci


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