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Physical Installation Procedures

This section of the Procedure Guide covers procedures that are related to the physical installation of hardware devices. You will most likely use these procedures when building a PC, performing upgrades, or replacing damaged hardware.

Note: The procedures in this section deal primarily with the physical installation of devices. These are not comprehensive installation procedures that deal with all the facets of a component upgrade (such as selection, configuration, installing drivers, etc.)

System Case Preparation Procedure

This procedure covers preparing the system case for the installation of a new system. You will want to perform this procedure when you are assembling a new PC, performing a major upgrade such as a full system upgrade, or moving a system to a new case. The focus of this procedure is on preparing a new system case, but the steps generally apply to an older case being reused as well. There will just be less assembly in the event of an older case (but you will need to clean the inside of the case most likely).

This procedure is geared more towards tower cases, since that is all that I use. Tower cases are superior to desktop cases for those doing their own PC assembly.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Inspect Case Contents: Inspect the contents of the case to ensure that everything that should be with it, is. New or old, you will need these components.
  2. Clean Case (if necessary): If this is an older case it probably could use a good cleaning by blowing out the whole interior with compressed air.
  3. Inspect Power Supply: Make sure the power supply is tightly attached to the case. If this is an old case, make sure the vents from the fan are clean; if not clean them using compressed air or a vacuum. If this is a new case, double-check the input voltage setting (110V or 220V) to make sure it is correct (or else!!)
  4. Inspect Power Switch: Make sure the power switch is mounted securely to the front of the case and the wire going back to the power supply is intact, not pinched, and not loose.
  5. Install Feet (if necessary): Some cases come with separate plastic feet in a bag inside the box. Put these into their holes in the bottom of the case now. You may not be able to access the bottom later on (happened to me, big waste of time pulling everything out).
  6. Install Slot Inserts (if necessary): Some cases come with the inserts that go in the expansion slots in a separate plastic bag. You can install these now (leaving out one where you think the video card and other cards will go) or install them later. Your choice, just do it at some point.
  7. Install or Remove Drive Bay Faceplates: Some cases come with all of their drive bay faceplates (plastic covers, bezels) installed and some come with all of them loose. You will want to insert the faceplates into the drive bay positions you don't plan to use and remove them from those you are going to use. To some extent you can't finalize this until after you plan your system layout, but you can always change them later on.
  8. Install Additional Cooling Fan (optional): Some cases come with space for an additional cooling fan. If you are going to use a second fan, install it now. For an AT form factor system, the second fan should blow into the case (advice from Enlight Corporation, major case manufacturer).
  9. Jumper LED Display (optional): Some cases still have an LED display to show the "speed" of the system. The speed is set using jumpers inside the case; set them now if you are going to do this. If the manual doesn't tell you how to set the jumpers, you're pretty much out of luck...
  10. Detach Motherboard Panel: Most newer tower cases today come with a detachable panel upon which the motherboard is mounted. Detach this panel now. Usually, this is done by pulling down on the U-shaped handle on the outside of the panel. It can take significant force to overcome the springs holding the panel in place. On some cases, the panel is held in place using screws.

 

Floppy Disk Drive Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure provides instructions for physically installing a floppy disk drive into a system case. This is really not a very difficult process, and doesn't really take that long to do. This procedure covers 3.5" and 5.25" floppy drives and deals only with the physical installation.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Find Pin 1 On Drive: Take a close look at the drive and determine which end of the interface connector is pin 1. There should be some sort of a marking near pin 1 to indicate it, which may be a small number "1", a dot, an arrow, a square around the pin where it connects to the circuit board, or some other indication. You'll need to know where pin 1 is when you connect the drive up, which may be quite a while later on. It's much harder to determine which end is pin 1 after the drive is installed.
  2. Install Mounting Kit, If Necessary: If you are installing a 3.5" drive into a 5.25" drive bay, you will need to use a mounting or adapter kit. To use this kit, place the 3.5" drive into the middle of the adapter, and then use four screws to mount the drive to the inside of the adapter. Some adapters mount using screwholes on the bottom of the drive and some using screwholes on the side.  Make sure you orient the drive correctly. Then test the mounted drive by sliding it into the drive bay. Ensure that it fits properly. Once this is done, you continue this procedure and just treat this drive+kit assembly mechanically as if it were a 5.25" drive.
  3. Mount Drive Into Case: There are at least four different ways of mounting a floppy drive into the system case that I have encountered, and there are probably more. Determine which of the following matches your case and follow the appropriate instructions:
  4. Double-Check Installation: Make sure the drive has been fitted properly into the case and that there is no interference with other components. Ensure that it is not loose in the case.

 

Hard Disk Drive Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure provides instructions for installing a hard disk drive into a system case. Performing this installation is not that difficult as long as you follow the directions, of course.  It is important to install hard disk drives correctly, because as the warehouse for your data, the hard disk is one of the most important devices in the PC. This procedure deals only with the physical installation of the drive.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Find Pin 1 On Drive: Take a close look at the drive and determine which end of the interface connector is pin 1. There should be some sort of a marking near pin 1 to indicate it, which may be a small number "1", a dot, an arrow, a square around the pin where it connects to the circuit board, or some other indication. You'll need to know where pin 1 is when you connect the drive up, which may be much later on. It's much harder to determine which end is pin 1 after the drive is installed.

Tip: Hard disks usually have pin 1 of the connector next to the drive's power connector.

  1. Install Mounting Kit, If Necessary: Virtually all modern cases have internal 3.5" drive bays meant specifically for hard drives. However, if you are installing into an older case or one that has its internal 3.5" bays full, you will need to use a mounting or adapter kit. To use this kit, place the drive into the middle of the adapter, and then use four screws to mount the drive to the inside of the adapter. Some adapters mount using screwholes on the bottom of the drive and some using screwholes on the side.  Make sure you orient the drive correctly. Then test the mounted drive by sliding it into the drive bay. Ensure that it fits properly.
  2. Mount Drive Into Case: There are three common ways of mounting a hard disk drive into the system case that I have encountered. Determine which of the following matches your case and follow the appropriate instructions:
  3. Double-Check Installation: Make sure the drive has been fitted properly into the case and that there is no interference with other components. In particular, make sure that the logic board on the bottom of the drive is not touching anything. Ensure that it is not loose in the case.

 

CD-ROM Drive Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install a CD-ROM drive into a system case. This procedure deals only with the physical installation of the drive.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Find Pin 1 On Drive: Take a close look at the drive and determine which end of the interface connector is pin 1. While this can be quite confusing with hard disk drives, most CD-ROM drives have decent labeling on the drive itself to tell you "which end is up". You'll need to know where pin 1 is when you connect the drive up, which may be much later on. It's much harder to determine which end is pin 1 after the drive is installed.

Tip: CD-ROM drives usually have pin 1 of the connector next to the drive's power connector.

  1. Mount Drive Into Case: There are three common ways of mounting a CD-ROM drive into the system case that I have encountered. Determine which of the following matches your case and follow the appropriate instructions:
  2. Double-Check Installation: Make sure the drive has been fitted properly into the case and that there is no interference with other components. Ensure that it is not loose in the case.

 

 

Processor Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install a system processor in a motherboard. This is a fairly straightforward process, although of course you want to be very careful when performing it due to the fragility of the component. This procedure provides steps and caveats for installation of all types of socketed CPUs. I will add instructions for installing slotted CPUs (those using an SEC package, i.e. the Pentium II) at a later time. Note that this procedure deals only with the physical installation of the CPU, and does not contain all of the steps necessary for a CPU upgrade, for example.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Determine Socket Type: The first step is to figure out if you have a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket on your motherboard. The key to this is to look for a small plastic or metal lever along one side of the socket. If you see one, it is a ZIF socket. Virtually all Pentium class or later motherboards have these, and many 486 motherboards do as well.
  2. Orient Processor To Socket: The processor and socket are both square, so you have to be sure to orient the processor so that it lines up correctly to the socket. Both pieces of hardware will have a distinguishing mark in one corner to indicate where pin 1 is. On the processor, look for one of the following: a dot on the surface of the chip in one corner; a notch in one corner; a diagonal bit of gold coming from the patch on the underside of the chip; or a square-shaped gold pad where one of the corner pins connects to the underside of the chip. Typical markings on the socket are a slightly different pattern of pin holes in one corner, a "1", or a notch in the socket.

Note: Some 486-class motherboards have sockets containing four rows of pins, intended for use by a Pentium OverDrive chip. True 486-class chips have only three rows of pins, so be careful to ensure that when inserting these into a socket with four rows, to center the chip in the socket. One unused row of pins should be left all around the edge of the socket.

Note: Many newer CPUs are keyed through the use of special pins so that they cannot be inserted incorrectly (well, not without breaking off one of the pins).

  1. Open ZIF Socket: Assuming that your board has a ZIF socket, open it up. This is done by grasping the lever next to the socket, and then lifting it up and pulling it back until it is vertical, perpendicular to the motherboard. On some ZIF sockets, you will have to pull the lever out away from the socket first slightly before lifting it up. This will cause the top part of the socket to shift and thereby open the socket. On some older motherboards the lever can tend to stick and it may take a bit of pressure to get the lever to get all the way open.
  2. Insert Processor Into Socket: Double-check the orientation of the processor, and then place it into the socket. Follow these instructions depending on what type of socket you have:
  3. Check That Chip Is Inserted Fully: Carefully check the processor to make sure that it is fully inserted into the socket. There should be very little space between the bottom surface of the processor and the top of the socket, less than 1/16" (less than 1 mm).
  4. Close ZIF Socket: Assuming that you are using a ZIF socket board, close the socket. Gently push the lever down. You may encounter some resistance while doing this, which is normal, but if you have to really lean on it then either the socket is defective or you have the processor inserted incorrectly. The lever should go all the way down and rest next to the socket, where it was before you started.

 

 

Heat Sink Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install a heat sink onto a conventional, socketed system processor. Modern CPUs require special cooling to ensure that they function properly, and the heat sink must be installed correctly to ensure that it does its job. Some processors come with an integrated heat sink and fan, and if you are installing one of these then you do not need to follow this procedure. I cover the installation of both passive heat sinks and active heat sinks (those that include a fan) here.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Attach Fan to Heat Sink: Some active heat sinks come with the fan not actually attached to the heat sink. If yours is like this, then attach the fan to the fins of the heat sink now. This is usually done by screwing the fan into the heat sink using four screws supplied with it.
  2. Apply Heat Sink Compound: Open up the heat sink compound and apply a thin layer to the surface of the CPU using your finger. The layer should just be thick enough to obscure the surface of the chip. On CPUs that are totally flat, go almost all the way to the edges. On CPUs that have a raised metal plate in the center, apply the compound almost to the edge of the plate; you should not try to spread it over the whole surface of the chip, just the raised area (this is how the package is designed). Do not apply too much compound--more is not better here, and too much will make a huge mess when you attach the heat sink.
  3. Attach Heat Sink: Place the heat sink on the surface of the CPU. Then secure the heat sink to the processor. Some heat sinks simply slip over the edges of the processor and just kind of "sit there". Most newer ones use metal clips that attach to the processor socket. To apply these, slip one of the metal clips over the plastic nub on one side of the socket, then stretch the clip across the CPU and over the nub on the other side. It may take a bit of pressure to bend the metal clip so that it will fit over the socket; this is what forces the heat sink onto the processor to ensure good contact. Just don't press too hard.

Warning: The suction formed by the heat sink compound can cause the heatsink to bond tightly to the CPU. In the next step you will be instructed to pull the heat sink straight off the CPU without sliding it. Only do this if you can do it without using excessive force, or you may damage the processor.

  1. Check and Adjust Heat Sink Compound: Carefully remove the heat sink, by loosening it and lifting it straight up off the processor (don't slide it off, but bear in mind the warning immediately above). Then look carefully at the heat sink compound on the processor. You may see some areas where the heat sink compound is still smooth from where you applied it with your finger, and other areas where it has been disturbed (it may have a stippled appearance here, like a stucco ceiling). The disturbed areas are where the heat sink was making contact with the heat sink compound; the smooth areas are where it was not touching. In the areas that were not making good contact, apply a small amount of additional compound. Then reattach the heat sink. Repeat this step as necessary until you have good contact over most of the surface area of the chip.
  2. Clean Up (If Necessary): If you're like me, you'll apply too much heat sink compound the first few times you do this.  Check around the perimeter of the CPU for extra compound that has oozed out from between the heat sink and CPU, and wipe it up. Do it now, because once the processor heats up the compound becomes more liquid and will make an enormous mess.

 

Cache Module Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to physically install a cache module (also often called a "COASt" module) into a motherboard that has a cache slot. Many newer motherboards do not have these slots any more, since the manufacturers now often find it more economical to just put the cache right on the motherboard instead of bothering with a slot. These slots however are often found in late model 486 class boards and some Pentium class models.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Orient Module: Cache modules are generally keyed so that they cannot be inserted incorrectly into their socket. This is done by splitting their card edge connector in half so that there are a different number of pins in one "half" than the other. Orient the module by examining it and lining it up next to the socket so the pins line up correctly.
  2. Insert Module Into Slot: Put the module into the slot at a 90 degree angle to the motherboard. Then press down firmly but gently to insert it into the slot. This may require a bit of pressure, but do not force the module. You may find rocking the module by putting pressure on one end first and then the opposite end, and back again, may help the module go into the slot more easily.
  3. Double-Check Installation: When inserted correctly, the module should stick straight up from the motherboard and its connector should be most of the way into the slot.

 

 

Memory Module Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure provides instructions for physically installing memory modules into a motherboard. I include here instructions for installing both SIMM and DIMM packaged memory. Installing memory modules can be a bit tricky, because SIMM sockets especially are both delicate and sometimes difficult to use.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Identify Installation Socket(s): Determine which memory module sockets you are going to use for these modules. As usual, the best way to do this is to consult your motherboard documentation; most motherboards will also physically label the modules with numbered identifiers. For a new system, you will normally want to use the first bank of memory on the motherboard, which normally means the lowest-numbered socket(s). If you are installing more than one module, be sure to install them in the correct order. This should be obvious by looking at the orientation of the sockets on the motherboard. If you install them in the wrong order then you'll block off the second socket with the first SIMM in most cases, and you'll have to remove and then reinstall them in the correct order.

Warning: SIMM and DIMM sockets are sometimes numbered staring with zero. This means that on a motherboard that takes SIMMs, the first bank of memory may be "SIMM0" and "SIMM1". If you use "SIMM1" and "SIMM2", you will be accidentally installing half a bank of memory into each of the first two banks on the motherboard, and the system will not function.

  1. Orient Module: Line up the module next to the socket. Modules are keyed to prevent incorrect insertion. The keying on the module itself is obvious, but you may have to look very carefully at the socket to see which way the notch goes, and the module itself may appear to be able to sit into the slot either way. Don't worry too much about this; if you put the module in the wrong way you'll realize it as soon as you try to tilt the module into place (it won't work).
  2. Insert Module: Insert the module into the socket. The instructions depend on the type of module:
  3. Lock Module Into Place: The module will still be loose in the socket at this point; it is not fully installed until you lock it into position:
  4. Double-Check Installation: It's sometimes hard to be sure that modules are inserted correctly. The module should be securely and firmly in its socket. It may wiggle a bit if you try to move it but it should not be loose. For SIMMs, there should be clips on either side of the module holding it into the socket. The contacts should be squarely inside the socket. If you have installed two identical modules, check their height from the surface of the motherboard; it should be the same for both modules.
  5. Repeat If Necessary: Repeat steps 2 to 5 as necessary for each module being installed.

 

 

Motherboard Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install a motherboard into a system case. I have taken great pains to be excruciatingly detailed in this procedure, for one simple reason: physically installing the motherboard is probably the trickiest part of building a new system or performing a motherboard upgrade. It's not that the actual installation is all that difficult, it's just that it is a process that requires more experience, you might even say "finesse", than many other installation or configuration jobs. I have not found any other procedures on the 'net that really address this procedure at the level of detail that someone needs when they've never done this before. One reason why this is hard to do is that there are so many different combinations of motherboards and cases...

Note that this procedure covers installation only; you should in most cases configure the motherboard before installing it; see this procedure for details if you have not already done this.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Orient Case or Mounting Panel: Arrange the case (or removable motherboard mounting panel) so that the the expansion card slots and keyboard and other connectors are farthest away from you. For the rest of this procedure, I refer to the the edge of the motherboard where the connectors go as the "back" of the motherboard.
  2. Find Motherboard Mounting Holes: Examine the motherboard and locate its mounting holes. These are usually found as follows:
  3. Find System Case or Mounting Panel Holes: Examine the system case and see what types of mounting holes it uses. You will generally see the following:
  4. Orient Motherboard and Match Motherboard Mounting Holes to Case Mounting Holes: Take the motherboard and physically locate it in space a few inches over the case (or removable case panel). Orient the motherboard so that it is approximately where it will be when installed. Any integrated connectors on the back of the motherboard should line up with the holes in the case designed for them, especially the keyboard connector. Then take note of the following:
  5. Install Standoffs: Attach the mounting hardware, following these specific instructions for each of the different case hole types mentioned in the step above:
  6. Slide Motherboard Into Place: Follow the appropriate directions depending, again, on the type of holes being used:
  7. Determine If Washers Are Required: Examine the heads of the screws that you will use to secure the motherboard to the metal standoffs under the screw-in mounting holes. If the head of the screw is large enough that after tightening the screw the head might make contact with the circuitry on the motherboard, you must use a plastic or paper washer under the screw head to prevent accidentally shorting out the motherboard. Most motherboard manufacturers are smart enough today to leave a little extra space around the mounting holes.
  8. Screw Motherboard Into Place: Using washers (if necessary), screw the motherboard into the metal standoffs underneath it. First insert all the screws and hand-tighten them, then tighten them all using a screwdriver (not too tight).
  9. Replace Removable Panel: If your case uses a removable motherboard mounting panel, replace it into the case now. This basically just means undoing whatever you did to remove the panel in the first place; most cases either have a pull-down, spring-loaded "handle" that loosens the panel, or they use screws to secure it. Be careful to make sure that the bottom of the panel is in the right place where it fits into the bottom of the case; in most cases there are metal guides or tabs that the panel must align with in order to be reinserted properly. Also be careful not to damage the motherboard in this step by banging it (or anything inserted into it like the CPU or memory modules) against anything else in the case.
  10. Test Motherboard Installation: An incorrectly-installed motherboard can be the bane of any homebuilt PC; strange and unpredictable behavior will result that can be very hard to diagnose. I would therefore take the time to check the following after installing the board:

 

 

I/O Port Connector Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install serial and parallel port connectors to the system case of a system that uses the AT form factor, and connect them to the motherboard. These are the 9-pin or 25-pin connectors on the back of the system case into which you plug the cables for your printer, modem, or other peripherals. You will generally use this procedure when installing a new motherboard or building a new system. ATX form factor motherboards have these connectors integrated onto the board and therefore do not require this procedure.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Determine Install Method: There are two distinctly different ways to install the I/O connectors. The I/O connectors are normally pre-mounted into slot inserts that are meant to be placed into expansion slot bays in the back of the PC. You can insert them there if you wish. The main advantage of doing this is that it saves time and hassle. There are disadvantages however: you will end up blocking off one or more of your motherboard expansion slots; the connectors will tend to be less rigid and harder to attach cables to when installed this way (because the metal slot insert will bend when pressure is put on it); and the cables inside the box coming from the connectors will get in the way of other parts of the motherboard more. The alternative is to remove the connectors from the metal inserts they come in, and mount them directly to the system case. This takes more work.

Note: Depending on your hardware, you may have no choice about how to do the installation. If your connectors did not come preinstalled in metal slide-in expansion card inserts, you will have to use the mounting holes in your case. On the other hand, some system cases may not have direct-mounting holes, so you will have to use the inserts in this situation. Also watch out for a mismatch in size on the second serial port connector: some motherboards ship with two 9-pin serial connectors while some cases have holes for one 9-pin and one 25-pin, and vice-versa. If you have a mismatch here, again, you may need to stick with the inserts.

If you are going to leave the connectors in the metal inserts, continue with these steps:

  1. Identify Slots for Installation: Choose an appropriate location for the inserts; you will usually need two of them. The best expansion slots to choose are any that don't actually line up with expansion slots on the motherboard (most systems have more inserts in the case than the motherboard actually has slots). This way you don't unnecessarily block off any expansion slots on the motherboard. You will also generally want to use slots near where the port cables connect physically to the motherboard; make sure the cables will reach.
  2. Remove Slot Inserts: If there are any blanks in the slots you want to use, remove them using a screwdriver. Save them in case you ever need them again in the future.
  3. Install Port Connector Inserts: Mount the connector port inserts into place and secure them using a screw for each.
  4. Double-Check Installation: Check to make sure the connectors are installed properly. They should be secure in their installed location. Try attaching an external cable to one of the connectors if you wish, to verify that it works.
  5. Connect Cables to Motherboard: Connect the internal cables coming from each connector to the appropriate headers on the motherboard. Refer to your motherboard manual if you need it. Be sure to line up the red wire on the cable with pin 1 on the connector. If you have one 9-pin serial port connector and one 25-pin, you will normally want to make the 9-pin the first serial port and the 25-pin the second.

If you decide to mount the connectors directly to the system case, continue here instead:

  1. Identify Mounting Holes: Many cases, especially larger ones, come with many holes, more than you need to mount your connectors. Choose three holes that are the right shape to match the size of connectors you have (9-pin or 25-pin). Try to keep the serial ports together and the parallel port separate if possible, as this makes things less confusing for some users. Make sure that the cables coming from the connectors are long enough to reach the motherboard headers to which they will attach, from the location you are selecting.
  2. Open Mounting Holes: Remove any metal plates blocking off the mounting holes. These are usually either held in place with screws on older cases; on newer ones the manufacturer just punches the outline of the hole and leaves the metal part connected to the case with a sliver of metal. For these, punch the metal out using a screwdriver, or bend the metal back and forth until it snaps out of the way.
  3. Remove Connectors From Metal Inserts: Unscrew the connectors from the metal inserts they come in. Use a nut driver (if you have one) or a pair of pliers. Quick tip: to remove a connector you don't have to completely remove both screws. Remove one and loosen the other half-way, and the connector will slide out. Doing this saves time and makes mounting the connectors into the case easier.
  4. Mount Connectors to System Case: Slide the connectors into the holes in the back of the case and then tighten the hexagonal nuts using either a nut driver or a pair of pliers. Don't leave them too loose, or they will come off when you detach a cable weeks or months later. Don't over-tighten them, or they will snap off and leave you with a mess to deal with. Also, be careful not to mount the connectors upside-down; the longer side should be up (the row of 13 pins on a 25-pin connector, or 5 pins on a 9-pin connector) and the shorter side down (the row of 12 or 4 pins).
  5. Double-Check Installation: Check to make sure the connectors are installed properly. They should be very secure in their location in the back of the case. Try attaching an external cable to one of the connectors if you wish, to verify that it works.
  6. Connect Cables to Motherboard: Connect the internal cables coming from each connector to the appropriate headers on the motherboard. Refer to your motherboard manual if you need it. Be sure to line up the red wire on the cable with pin 1 on the connector. If you have one 9-pin serial port connector and one 25-pin, you will normally want to make the 9-pin the first serial port and the 25-pin the second.

 

 

PS/2 Mouse Port Connector Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install the port connector for a PS/2-style mouse to the case of a system that uses the AT form factor, and connect it to the motherboard. PS/2-style mice are the newer kind that use a round connector to attach to the system. They are different than conventional serial mice both in their interface and electrical signaling. You will generally use this procedure when installing a new motherboard or building a new system. In addition, some AT form factor motherboards come with a pin header on the motherboard for a PS/2 mouse but don't come with the actual port connector, so you will use this procedure if you decide to add the connector later on. ATX form factor motherboards have this connector integrated onto the board and therefore do not require this procedure.

Note: I assume that the mouse port connector is mounted into a screw-in expansion slot insert, as this is usually how this is done with AT form factor systems. You can in fact mount the PS/2 connector in an unused 9-pin serial port mounting hole directly in your system case, if you have one. (Even though the PS/2 mouse port is round, the plastic molding that holds it is sized to fit a DB9 connector hole.) This will let you save an expansion slot. If you wish to mount the PS/2 port in this way, you'll want to refer to the I/O Port Connector Physical Installation Procedure, which describes how to mount port connectors to the case directly. Then use the last step of this procedure to connect the PS/2 port to the motherboard.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Identify Slot for Installation: Choose an appropriate location for the insert. The best expansion slot to choose is one that doesn't actually line up with an expansion slot on the motherboard (most systems have more inserts in the case than the motherboard actually has slots). This way you don't unnecessarily block off any expansion slots on the motherboard. You will also generally want to use a slot near where the PS/2 port cable connects physically to the motherboard; make sure the cable will reach as it is often very short.
  2. Remove Slot Insert: If there is a metal blank in the slot you want to use, remove it using a screwdriver. Save it in case you ever need it again in the future.
  3. Install Port Connector Insert: Mount the connector port insert into place and secure it using the screwdriver.
  4. Double-Check Installation: Check to make sure the connector is installed properly. It should not be loose; try attaching a PS/2 mouse to the connector to verify that it works.
  5. Connect Cable to Motherboard: Connect the internal cable coming from the connector to the appropriate header on the motherboard. Refer to your motherboard manual if you need it. Be sure to line up the red wire on the cable with pin 1 on the connector (although some of these don't have a red wire, so be careful). The connector is usually five or six pins, though not all of the pins will necessarily have actual wires for them.

 

 

Video Card Physical Installation Procedure

This procedure describes how to install a video card into the motherboard. This is a very easy procedure, especially with newer video cards. I cover the installation of PCI, VLB, and ISA cards here (specific instructions on AGP cards will follow once I have used AGP personally; my initial impressions are that they would be installed quite similarly to PCI cards). This procedure deals only with the physical installation of the card.

Procedure Overview:


Procedure Steps:

  1. Identify Expansion Slot: Find an open expansion slot of the correct type for the video card. You will want to choose a slot if possible that is far away from other cards and other hardware inside the box.
  2. Remove Metal Insert: Using a screwdriver, unscrew the metal insert in the case that corresponds to the expansion slot you are using. It may help to take the video card and align it to the slot. This will help you to visualize which slot goes with which system case insert (since PCI cards are opposite from ISA ones, this isn't always totally obvious.) Some cases may have simple punch-outs instead of screwed-in inserts; if yours does then remove the insert by pushing it out and/or flexing it back and forth until it comes off.
  3. Insert Card: Align the pins of the video card's connector to the slot. Make sure the metal insert that goes to the back of the case is also aligned correctly. Then apply firm pressure to seat the card into the slot. You may need to rock the card back and forth to get it to go in. VESA local bus cards are the hardest to insert because their connector is so long--be patient and work slowly. Do not force the card in or press it to the point where the motherboard is flexing significantly. If you need to, support the motherboard manually with one hand while you push with the other.
  4. Secure Card: Screw the video card into place using the screw you removed from the insert blank formerly in the case. You may need to supply a screw if your case is one of the el-cheapo ones that doesn't come with screws for the expansion slots.
  5. Double-Check Installation: Ensure that the card is securely in its slot. The card may move from side to side slightly when wiggled but should not be loose. Make sure that the card is not interfering with anything else in the case. Make sure that the card is inserted far enough into the expansion slot.