Brief History of Zurich,
Switzerland
Zurich has a very long
history that goes back as far as 15 BC. In the 14th
century, the city very briefly was an independent
imperial state before it joined the Swiss Confederation
in 1351. In 1523, the city experienced major Protestant
Reformation movements. The city established its
reputation for global banking and finance in the early
19th century.
Along with it's
financial reputation, Zurich is also a great travel
experience. It sits on the northern shores of Lake
Zurich with the Alps as a backdrop. Zurich still has a
historic storybook flavor. Along the River Quai, the
Old City is a stroller's paradise with its narrow
alleyways, quiet squares, lovely hotels, ornate guild
halls that has museums or trendy restaurants now, chic
boutiques and historic cafes. Cafe Odeon if where Lenin
conveniently sat out the first World War.
A short distance from
the Old Town is Zurich's (and the world's) most
impressive shopping thoroughfare, the Bahnhofstrasse.
Renowned throughout the world for its array of elegant,
sophisticated shops and department stores,
Bahnhofstrasse connects the train station to Lake
Zurich. An enjoyable cafe culture has sprung up along
its sidewalks and on Saturdays a bargain (believe it or
not) is still possible to find at Zurich's lakeside flea
market.
Sites to see in
Zurich
For a city that’s a
minnow in world terms, Zürich has a surprisingly wide
range of nightlife and entertainment. Live rock and
jazz – although easy to find most nights of the week –
take second place to the city’s amazingly dynamic club
scene, which covers the gamut from techno to salsa. The
city is also home to a top-flight orchestra, a
world-famous opera company, and one of the
German-speaking world’s premier theatres. You can find
complete what’s-on listings for the week ahead in
ZüriTipp, the Friday supplement to the Tages
Anzeiger newspaper . The tourist booklet Zürich
News covers major events, but nothing out of the
mainstream. The clubbers’ bible, with full listings, is
Forecast (Fr.3 monthly). Tickets for almost any
event can be had from Billetzentrale Zürich (BiZZ), a
city-run organization housed in a hut on Werdmühleplatz
(Mon–Fri 10am–6.30pm, Sat 10am–2pm; 01/221 22 83), which
mirrors the larger, mainstream venues by closing down
for July and August. Prices are high: Fr.10–15 for
ordinary live bands and clubs, Fr.20–25 for big-name
shows, Fr.15–60 for classical concerts, and Fr.16–270
for the opera.
A pleasant,
relaxing spa town on the River Limmat, 24km
downstream from Zürich in Canton Aargau, BADEN (German
for “baths”) makes for a peaceful stopover on a journey
across the north of the country, and could easily serve
as a base from which to explore Zürich without suffering
that city’s stratospheric accommodation prices. There’s
not an awful lot to do, other than enjoy the ancient Old
Town, take in a fine collection of Impressionist art,
and enjoy a soothing dip in the warm, sulphurous spring
waters … but that’s the point. People have been coming
to Baden for centuries to sit around doing absolutely
nothing, and there are few more genteel and stately
towns in the country in which to follow suit.
The Jura Höhenweg
(or High Route) makes for a multi-day hiking tour
through a region unlike any other in Switzerland,
stretching 199km along the length of the Swiss Jura from
Dielsdorf, 12km east of Baden, to Borex near Geneva. End
to end it takes about fourteen days to complete. Small
villages and isolated farms point to a scant population
throughout the region, and you can often find yourself
walking for long distances without signs of habitation.
In this limestone country there’s a rich flora in
summer, and long views across the Mittelland from
open ridge crests show either the abrupt wall of the
Bernese Alps or the snowy Mont Blanc range. The notes
below are meant as a guideline only: you shouldn’t set
off without a good map (those covering the route are LS
5005, 5019, 5016, 241, 242, 5020 and 260 – all at
1:50,000). The essential accompaniment to any part of
the walk is The Jura by Kev Reynolds and R. Brian
Evans (see
books),
which gives details of accommodation to be had along the
route in modest inns or mountain farms with outhouse
dormitories, and also includes winter ski traverses.
Local tourist offices can also supply information on
hiking short stretches. See p.71 for the basics. Reached
by S-Bahn train from Zürich, Dielsdorf slumbers in a
countryside of farms and market gardens, but within an
hour of setting out the way goes through Regensburg
which, with its thirteenth-century castle turret,
stone-walled houses and cobbled square, is the finest
village of the whole route. You’ll also pass through
Baden and Brugg on the first day, but thereafter the
true nature of the Jura becomes evident, with the
well-marked trail undulating to the horizon through
steep green hills and charming farmland basins. From
Brugg the route takes to high ground north of the River
Aare, and beyond Staffelegg it almost reaches 1000m on
the wooded summit of the Geissflue with views between
the trees to the Black Forest. Edging above Olten, on
day four the route joins a track engineered by Swiss
soldiers during World War I across the flank of the
1098m Belchenflue, adorned with large regimental
insignia carved and painted on the steep rock walls.
Later the same day hundreds of reinforced timber steps
take the path up towards the Roggenflue to emerge on a
prominent limestone cliff with more expansive views
before descending to Balsthal. Day five ends on the
Weissenstein (1284m), whose panorama was immortalized in
The Path to Rome by Hilaire Belloc: “One saw the
sky beyond the edge of the world getting purer as the
vault rose. But right up … ran peak and field and needle
of intense ice, remote from the world.” On reaching
Frinvillier on day six the Höhenweg passes suddenly from
German-speaking to French-speaking Switzerland, to
become known as the Chemin des Crêtes. Architectural
styles change too, as though you’ve crossed an
international frontier. Above Frinvillier you’ll gain
the 1607m
Chasseral;
ribs of limestone project through the turf, and a hotel
just below (032/751 24 51) gazes out to Lac de Neuchâtel
with the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau floating on the
horizon. On day nine the trail edges a huge limestone
cauldron, the Creux du Van, the most dramatic feature on
the long walk. A farm nearby offers a mattress in an
outhouse for the simplest of overnight lodgings, and
next day the path leads down to Sainte-Croix, home of
the
Swiss musical-box industry.
A steady climb then gains an open plateau close to the
French border with military defences in evidence, before
a sharp pull culminates on the summit of Le Suchet at
1588m. Passing through
Vallorbe
on day twelve the route investigates the Source de
l’Orbe in a woodland whose glades are soggy with newborn
streams. Mont Tendre, crossed on the same day, marks the
highest point of the Jura at 1679m. From it, you can
absorb a panorama of Lake Geneva and the snowcapped
Alps. The last two days are spent mostly along the ridge
among flowers – from the final high point of La Dôle,
walkers can share Rousseau’s pleasure: “The moment when
from the very top of the Jura mountains I discovered
Lake Geneva, was a moment of ecstasy and delight.” From
there, 1200m of descent through woodland, meadows and an
open plain of wheat fields, brings the wanderer at last
to Borex above Lake Geneva itself.
Zürich’s
biggest party is August’s massive Street-Parade,
a tumultuous three-day techno weekend of floats,
costumes, dancing in the streets and general hedonism,
second in size and energy only to Berlin’s Love Parade
held a week or two beforehand; if you’re in the city,
you won’t be able to miss it.
On a more traditional
note, the Sechseläuten is Zürich’s spring festival, held
on the third Monday in April, and is the only time in
the year that Zürich’s establishment preens its feathers
in public: a highlight of the festival is a parade
through the city centre by the city’s traditional
guilds, dressed in costume. The festival culminates at
6pm precisely with the burning of the Böögg – an effigy
stuffed with fireworks – on Sechseläutenplatz next to
Bellevue, to symbolize the end of winter. Throughout the
evening the guilds take turns to visit each other in
their respective guildhalls, most of which have happily
become rather good restaurants.
One evening in the
week before Christmas sees the Lichterschwimmen, a
tradition of launching floating candles from the
Rathausbrücke onto the River Limmat, to the
accompaniment of gingerbread and glühwein. Zürich’s
Fasnacht (Carnival) is a boisterous affair, fun if you
happen to be in the city, but it’s still small fry
compared with those of Luzern and Basel. However, the
summertime Züri Fäscht – held every three years (next on
July 6–8, 2001) – is worth making a diversion for, with
the whole city throwing itself into fairground revelry.
Zürich’s annual
Festspiele is a festival of theatre, opera, music and
art, held from late June into mid-July, with special
productions, concerts and exhibitions all over the city.
The Theaterspektakel, during late August and early
September, also packs out the city’s stages and sees
lakeside marquees set up on Mythenquai for avant-garde
drama from around the world. There’s also a citywide
international jazz festival every November.
Ways to get
around in Zurich
Bus & Tram - Zurich's
combination of buses and streetcars, operated as the
Swiss VBZ system, is terrific: efficient and
inexpensive. Buy your single tickets ($1.50) - valid for
5 stops - at the vending machines situated at each stop.
At Central Station you can purchase a 24-hour pass for
$6, which allows unlimited travel on the buses and
trams.
Taxi - Taxis are not
easily found in Zurich and are among the most expensive
in Europe
Bicycle - Yes, this is
a popular mode of transportation in Zurich: it's only a
short ride to the city's lovely outer districts. Bike
rentals are available at the train station.
Dining
- Most expensive and moderate restaurants in
Europe are especially crowded during the high seasons
and weekends; it is advisable to make reservations
Konigstuhl - Colorful and fun with an irreverent
historical theme blended into the decor. The cuisine is
imaginative and international. Expensive.
Blaue
Ente - Fashioned inside a converted old mill, this
sophisticated hangout for the advertising and art world
offers a varied menu highlighting French-Italian
cuisine. Addr: Muhle Tiefenbrunnen. Expensive
Kronenhalle - Animated and star-studded, here you will
encounter classic Swiss dishes and robust portions. On
view is the proprietor's excellent 20th century art
collection. Expensive
Haus am
Ruden - Quaint and atmospheric, we adored the
ever-popular geschnetzeltes und rosti (minced creamed
veal with roast potatoes). Moderate
Cafe
Schober - Zurich's oldest cafe and a designated
landmark, this is the ideal spot for the afternoon's
cake and coffee break. Inexpensive
Shopping -
Bahnhofstrassse - this street is a shopper's paradise.
The main shops feature watches, jewelry, leather goods,
furs, fashion and fine silks
Bucherer
- Famous for watches and jewelry
Grieder
les boutiques - Designer label clothing and leather
goods.
Madler -
World renowned and historical Swiss leather good shop.
Heimatwerk - Swiss handicrafts - glass, embroidery,
woodcarvings, etc.
Bally
Shoes - Famous shoe store known for elegance
Travel
Book Shop - interesting collection of travel books
