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Learn To Surf
Surfing is a very complex sport. Below are some basics that all surfers should know. This page is aimed at beginners.
What are Waves?
Waves are balls of energy that begin out at sea. Except for tsunamis they are created by the wind. The frictional drag of the wind creates ripples which then progress to chop and with more energy from the wind, eventually turn into swell. When the swells reach shallow water they overbalance and break in the form of waves.
Your First Surfboard
The trusty old surfboard is something that you will come to treat better than most of your friends. The board is the tool that you will carve your mark in the waves. As a learner you will no doubt inflict much pain on your first board so I advise you not to spend too much money. You will probably want a board that is of medium length (too short = unstable, too long = hard to manage) and not too thin. The length will depend on your height and weight. Remember: buy a surfboard that suits your ability.
Rips
A Rip is simply an escape for the water brought in by breaking waves. Rips form in order to let the water that is moving through the breaker zone return to sea. Rips can be very dangerous, but if you know what you are doing you can use them to your advantage. Remember: If you ever get caught in a rip don't paddle or swim against it.
