Note:
For downloading these files I recommend you install a download manager like Getright or something so you can resume your download in case of a connection break.
In addition, these files are zipped (compressed), so you'll need winzip to huh... unzip them :-)

- FAZER PARTS CATALOGUE
Courtesy of Gabriel Ben Yosef.Finally I got a little time to post this stuff. If it prooves to be useful and you want to thank someone, please email Gabriel.

- FAZER OWNER'S MANUAL
The little book that comes with every bike you buy. General maintenance and care. Many people ask me for this book. I'm not doing this for profit, so don't give me any copyrights crap, or this will simply disapear.

- FAZER WIRING DIAGRAM (700cc Double pick-up)
- Color codes for the diagram
- Diagram description German
- Diagram description French
- Diagram description English
Courtesy of Frans from The Netherlands. Frans spent some precious time scanning this stuff (when he could be riding his Fazer) so I want to thank him for providing this info. I'm sure it will be of use. ;-)

- FAZER WIRING DIAGRAM (Later 750cc Single pick-up)
Provided by yours truly... :-)

Great info posted by Mike, from the FZX Club (Aug2005)
Thanks Mike!

Some help to anyone considering fitting LED indicators.

I fitted LED indicators front and back to my FZX (they plug into the existing indicator wiring) and had the usual problem that is "They don't work!".
The reason is that the normal flasher unit requires an electrical load
applied to it to make it work, this is normally achieved by
the current that is used by the normal indicator bulbs but LED's only
require a very small amount of power to make them work and don't draw
enough current to make the flasher unit work.

A common way of fixing this is to use resistors inline with the LED indicators to simulate the load, there are a few types of resistor available that are supposed to fix the problem such as ones that are built into two wires that simply plug into the existing wiring, these often come with the LED indicators when you buy them, i tried these and they don't work as they don't offer enough resistance.

Another type is available which are much bigger and often come in a gold heatsink i spent a few hours wiring these in various ways with only partial success, these resistors offer enough resistance in fact they are too big and only three out of the eighteen LED's in the indictors lit up and they were far dimmer than a normal bulb!
I did find one way of wiring them in so that all the LED's worked and
thought i had solved the problem until i switched the indicators off
and the flasher unit was still flashing/clicking.

The reason this happens is because as soon as the ignition is turned
on power goes to the flasher unit and the resistors still apply a load to it regardless of if the indicators are on or not.

So, "Don't bother with resistors" buy a proper electronic flasher unit, they cost about £20 but it's the only thing that i can get to work properly on the FZX!
I ordered the unit for a yamaha but it does not plug straight into the
FZX wiring as the connector is different but it's only two wires (the
same as a FZX) and just needs a couple of new connectors fitted. 

Now i had the indicators working i then realised the dash with the indicator warning light was not connected so i plugged it in and then found the next problem, the indicator light on the dash did not work when the indicators were turned on and all the indicators were now flashing together like hazard warning lights, very weird!

This seems to be because the indicator warning light is a bulb and as small as it is it's putting to much load on the electronic flasher unit, if the bulb is removed everything works ok.
So i thought replace the bulb with a single LED but that was to easy and it caused more strange problems, so i put a single LED in parallel on each of the front indicators and success a flashing single LED warning light with the indicators.
This means that there are now two LED's one for the left side and one for the right, they are fitted into the dash in place of the old bulb.

Most LED's are not designed to run on 12volts but they are available with a resistor soldered to them so they can or you can solder a resistor on yourself like i did, a 470-500Ohm 1/4Watt resistor will do the job.

Mike.

POWER/TORQUE
Dynojet part # for the FZX 700/750 and FZ750:
K&N part # for the FZX 700/750:
ENGINE OIL CHECK/CHANGE
SPARK PLUGS INSPECTION
AIR FILTER
TOP COVER REMOVAL
DRIVE CHAIN SLACK CHECK/ADJUSTMENT/LUBRICATION
FRONT FORK/REAR SHOCKS ADJUSTMENT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE/LUBRICATION CHART
FAZER TRANSMISSION AND SPEED

POWER/TORQUE

This is an Excel Graph I made that simulates a power/torque output curve. Here you can see how the power of an engine is calculated through its torque curve. Just move the torque curve up/down and see how the power responds. In other words, torque rules!

Click here to download the graph

Dynojet part # for the FZX 700/750 and FZ750:

Stage 1 -   # 4110

Stage 3 -   # 4110   (I have the #E4110.001 kit on my '92 750cc. For European models only.)

K&N part # for the FZX 700/750:

Stage 1 -   # YA-7086 (For use with the stock airbox)

Stage 3 -   # RC-1824 (Individual filters. Must eliminate airbox) But any individual filters for 52mm mouth carbs will take care of the business

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

(Note: This information was taken from the Yamaha Owner's Manual and Revue Moto Technique Nº69. I have no intention of violate any copyrights. If I'm doing something I shouldn't, please tell me and I'll remove this page. The only purpose of this section is to help anyone and everyone that have no access to this info. If you are unsure of anything that is written here, please refer to your Yamaha dealer.)

ENGINE OIL CHECK/CHANGE

Recommended oil (By Yamaha):

SAE 20W40 Motor oil - From 5ºC up

SAE 10W30 Motor oil - Up to 15ºC

I use CASTROL GPS 10W40 Semi-sinthetic four strokes oil. I change the oil every 5.000Km and the oil filter every 10.000Km

Oil quantity:

Engine oil check:

1- Place the motorcycle on the centerstand. Warm up the engine for several minutes. (Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level. A slight tilt toward the side can result in false readings.

2- With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crankcase cover. (Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking).

3- The oil level should be between the maximum and minimum marks. If the level is low, add sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.

Engine oil and oil filter replacement:

1- Warm up the engine for a few minutes.

2- Stop the engine. Place an oil pan under the engine, and remove the oil filler cap (next to the enigne serial number).

3- Remove the drain plug (under the engine) and drain the oil.

4- Remove the oil filter bolt and filter element.

5- Reinstall the drain plug (make sure it is tight).

6- Install the new oil filter element, new O-ring, and the filter cover; tighten the oil filter bolt. (make sure the O-ring is seated properly).

7- Fill engine with oil. Install the oil filter cap and tighten.

8- Start the engine and warm up  for a few minutes. While warming up check for oil leakage. If oil leakage is found, stop the engine and check for the cause.

9- After the engine is started, the oil level indicator light should go off if oil is filled to proper level.

Do not put any chemical additives. Engine oil also lubricates the clutch and additives could cause clutch slippage.

SPARK PLUGS INSPECTION

The spark plug is an important engine component and is easy to inspect. The condition of the spark plug can indicate the condition of the engine. Normally, all spark plugs from the same engine should have the same color on the white porcelain insulator around the center electrode. The ideal color at this point is a medium to light tan color for a motorcycle that is being ridden normally. If one spark plug shows a distinctly different color, there could be something wrong with the engine. You should periodically remove and inspect the spark plugs because heat and deposits will cause any spark plug to slowly break down and erode. If electrode erosion becomes excessive, or if carbon and other deposits are excessive, you should replace the spark plug with the specified plug.

Standard spark plug:

Note: If a torque wrench is not available when you are installing a spark plug, a good estimate of the correct torque is 1/4 to 1/2 turn past finger tight. Have the spark plug torqued to the correct value as soon as possible with a torque wrench.

AIR FILTER

The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals. It should be cleaned more frequently if you are riding in unusually wet or dusty areas.

1- Remove the top cover or "gas tank cover" (And how do I do that, you ask? See "top cover removal").

2- Remove the air filter case fitting screws, and the filter case cover. There are 7 screws, but the 2 back ones are difficult to reach (the ones close to the gas tank). When reassembling the filter case cover, you don't need to put these 2 back on. Just a tip.

3- Pull out the filter element.

4- Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt and blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the OUTER surface of the element. If the element is damaged, replace it.

5- Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the element is properly seated in the filter case.

TOP COVER REMOVAL

1- Remove the front end cover. The little cover behind the indicator lights panel. (2 screws).

2- Open the tank cap and remove the stopper plate. (1 hex screw and a metal plate).

3- Unlock the top cover by pulling the two little levers toward you.

4- Disconnect the indicator light lead couplers and remove the top cover. (you must remove the right metal grid to acess the lead couplers - one black and one white).

5- When installing the top cover, reverse the removal procedure. Securely connect the indicator light lead couplers. Securely lock the top cover levers. The stopper plate cannot be installed unless the levers are in the locking position.

DRIVE CHAIN SLACK CHECK

Note: Spin the wheel several times and find the tightest position of the chain. Check and/or adjust the chain slack while it's in this tightest position.

Inspect the drive chain when the motorcycle is on the centerstand. Check the slack more or less in the middle of the chain. Normal slack is approximately 15-20mm (0.6-0.8in). If the slack exceeds 20mm (0.8in), adjust.

DRIVE CHAIN SLACK ADJUSTMENT

1- Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut.

2- Loosen the axle nut.

3- Loosen the lock nuts on each side (There are two nuts on each side; the outside one is the lock nut and the other one is the adjuster nut). To tighten the chain, turn the chain adjuster nut clockwise. To loosen the chain, turn the adjuster counterclockwise and push the wheel forward. Turn each adjuster exactly the same amount to maintain correct axle alignment. There are marks on each side of the swingarm. Use these marks to align the rear wheel.

Caution: Too little chain slack will overload the engine and other vital parts (the bikes, not yours :-). Keep the slack within the specified limits.

4- After adjusting, be sure to tighten the lock nuts and the axle nut. AXLE NUT TORQUE: 105Nm (10.5mKg, 75ft-lbs)

5- Insert a new cotter pin into the axle nut and bend the end of the cotter pin. If the notch in the nut and the cotter pin hole do not match, tighten the nut slightly to align them.

DRIVE CHAIN LUBRICATION

The chain consists of many parts which work with each other. If the chain is not maintained properly, it will wear out quickly. Therefore, the chain must be serviced regulary. This service is especially necessary when riding in dusty areas. This motorcycle is equipped with a sealed type chain. Steam cleaning, high-pressure washes, and solvents can damage the chain so do not use these for cleaning it. Use only kerosene to clean the drive chain. Wipe it dry, and thoroughly lubricate it with SAE 30-50W motor oil. Do not use any other lubricants on the drive chain. They may contain solvents that could damage the sealed chain.

I personally use any common chain lubricant spray that's O-ring compatible. Lubricate it every 500Km, depending on weather and road conditions. Other opinions are welcome...

FRONT FORK/REAR SHOCKS ADJUSTMENT

Front forks:

This front fork is equipped with a spring preload adjuster. Always adjust each fork leg to the same setting. Uneven adjustment can cause poor handling and loss of stability.

The front fork spring preload is adjusted by changing the air pressure.

1- Elevate the front wheel by placing the motorcycle on the centerstand. (When checking/adjusting air pressure, there should be no weight on the front end.

2- Remove the valve cap from each fork leg.

3- Using an air check gauge, check and adjust the air pressure. Increasing the air pressure increases the spring preload and decreasing it, decreases spring preload.

To increase: Use an air pump or pressurized air supply.

To decrease: Release the air by pushing the valve.

4- Install the valve caps securely.

I personally don't mess with air pressure. Have blown a lot of fork oil seals. Have installed WP progressive fork springs and set air pressure to 14psi and never touch it since.

Caution: Never exceed the maximum pressure, or oil seal damage may occur. (Yes, I know :-) There must not be more than 1.4psi difference in air pressure between the left and right fork legs.

Rear shocks:

This shock absorber is equipped with a spring preload adjuster. Turn adjuster toward "HARD" to increase spring preload and toward "SOFT" to decrease spring preload. Make sure adjusting position is aligned with the small arrow mark.

Always adjust each shock to the same setting. Uneven adjustment can cause poor handling and loss of stability.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Use a torque wrench to tighten  these items. It is recommended that these items be checked occasionally, especially before a long trip. Always check the tightness of these items whenever they are loosened for any reason.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE/LUBRICATION CHART

FAZER TRANSMISSION AND SPEED

This is an approximate calculation for top speed in all gears. The program I used does not allow for wind resistance, tire growth or wether the bike has the power to get it there.

These calculations were made for a 11.000 redline and a 2 meters tire circumference.

* 120 Kph is the legal speed limit here in Portugal (Yeah, see if I care :-)