Site hosted by Angelfire.com: Build your free website today!

Russian Tortoise Caresheet

Russian Tortoise Caresheet

This caresheet was submitted by John Congdon. If you would like to get in contact with him, click here.


The Russian tortoise Testudo horsfieldi) is a very hardy and in my opinion, the most personable tortoise available in the pet trade. It is commonly seen for sale and a few captive born ones are available infrequently. I own a captive born one. Išll explain his setup later in the caresheet. One must remember that when buying a Russian tortoise that if it isnšt a long term captive, hasnšt been to the vet, or is a recent import, that their new pet tortoise must see a vet or exotic animal specialist immediately. Many imports have parasites and worms which can be taken care of by your vet. So while deciding you want a Russian tortoise, keep in mind the vet bills add up quickly and are ESSENTIAL and cannot be left out. It is the key to a healthy tortoise and a happy tortoise. It may also keep you healthy. And as always, wash hands after dealing with tortoises at all. Once a tortoise goes through the process of becoming parasite free, keep him away from all other tortoises that havenšt been treated yet or he will get the parasites and diseases he was just cured of from the other tortoises.

I keep my small baby Russian tortoise in a 30 gallon breeder tank for display purposes. Tortoises should be kept in a shallow open topped, wide tub with much crawl space. Depending on the size of your tortoise, your tortoise enclosure will have to be larger or small. If you are to keep a tortoise in an aquarium, make sure it is a łbreeder tank˛ which is very wide and that design doesnšt trap moisture such as other łhigh tanks˛ do. All Russians, even though they stay fairly small compared to sulcatas and leopard tortoises, need much space as they are roaming tortoises. Also, when possible, keep your tortoise on a substrate of rabbit pellets(rabbit food) and make sure it is deep enough for the tortoise to burrow into. Burrowing is a favorite pastime of Russians and they do it quite often. The pellets are also safe for the tortoises to eat so no problems there. Change the pellets 2 times a month to ensue no disease and just for general cleanliness. Also, if you notice tortoise feces, remove them at once so they donšt crawl through it and smear it everywhere. Tortoises of any species shouldnšt be kept on bark, cedar chips, or any other type of mulch because it is bad for their respiratory system.

When outside, keep the tortoises in a sturdy pen with a shaded area and an area exposed to sun. Watch out for predators and make walls high as Russian tortoises are very good climbers and are remarkably agile for their shape and for having the hindrance of their shell. Also, since they are magnificent burrowers, make sure the penšs walls go into the ground about 4-6 inches. Always check on your tortoises regularly and I never leave mine out all night. They come in at dusk.

When inside, give the tortoises some things to do so they donšt get˛bored.˛ I have a wooden ramp with a small crawl area at the top for giving the tortoise the sensation of going up a hill. I also have a homemade cave my tortoise loves to spend time under. Make sure cave is sturdy so it wonšt fall over onto the tortoise(s) and injure them. Make sure it can support at least 10 pounds as mine love to climb all over the cave and flimsy ones will break when being abused and climbed on by the tortoises.

A dish of water is not needed at all times. They rarely come across water in the wild and shouldnšt be given the opportunity to do so in captivity. The result of constant access to water leads to unhealthy; diseases such as shell fungus, skin fungus, shell rot, and soft shell. Tortoises get a majority of the water they need from their food. I soak mine 2 times a week(Tuesday and Friday) for 10 minutes per day. This is good and my tortoise seems to like it. Donšt be alarmed if you donšt see your tortoise drink, they absorb water in ma few different ways. They can consume water through their cloaca(the opening at the tail) through drinking it, and also some through their skin. Always make sure your tortoise is totally dry before putting it back in its enclosure.

Russians are kind of lazy and donšt be alarmed if they sleep quite a bit. Mine is active only after eating or if he wakes up before feeding, he usually has been asleep for quite some time.

Russians will eat a variety of greens. Their favorite is Romaine lettuce. They also enjoy dandelions, hisbicus leaves, kale, mustard greens, and a few other veggies. Experiment a little. Never experiment with fruit or meat. They are never to be fed either. I feed romaine daily. Romaine, kale, mustard and dandelion mix every 3rd day. I also use a non-phosphorus calcium supplement on their food on the days they get to soak in water. Once a week I feed MazuriŽ brand tortoise diet. This can usually be picked up at a decent pet store and if not, look at on-line resources. This is a good treat for the Russians and its has some good stuff they need but should be given sparingly and no more than 4 times a month. My tortoise is growing healthy and strong on this diet. Never feed insects either by the way. Also be careful not to overfeed as overfeeding leads to obesity and pyramiding of the shell. Pyramiding shouldn't be a problem as long as overfeeding doesnšt occur and as long as the tortoise isnšt fed a high-protien diet.

The lighting that should be used is a UV-A heat lamp and a UV-B full spectrum light. This is beneficial to the growth of the tortoisešs shell and it helps them gather and process nutrients from the food they eat. The light bulbs should be changed regularly. Sun light is best and whenever possible, take your tortoise outdoors and let it be in its pen. Natural sunlight works wonders for a tortoise and seems to brighten up their day(no pun intended). What I mean is that sunlight is good for the physiological state of mind as well as their physical well being. A good temperature for Russian tortoises is 75 degrees Farenheit to 85 degrees Farenheit.

This is a basic caresheet for the basic husbandry of Russian tortoises. Following what I have stated here should lead to happy tortoises which in turn leads to happy tortoise owners. Russians are great tortoises that can live for well over 50 years with the proper care. Enjoy your tortoise!


This caresheet was submitted by John Congdon. If you would like to get in contact with him, click here.

Main Page