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ARGENTINA (Ushuaia) & Antarctica

23 January - 12 February 2001

by Roy D. John

We left Ottawa just as the temperature was rising from  - 22◦ C for flights to Toronto, Miami and then overnight to Buenos Aires.

2001-01-24

We were driven from the airport along a dual highway that had several birds along its edge. After dumping our stuff in the hotel we took a cab to Costanera Sur.  The temperature was +33 ◦ C but we managed to slog on for four hours.  Not only was it hot but the area showed signs of drought.  Many areas shown on the map as pools were grassland.  We saw about 50 species of birds, most of which were new. There were two ponds that were wet.  One had a muddy green, sludge –like appearance and held mainly coots.  The other had open water and held Black-necked and Coscabora Swans.

We returned to the hotel and flaked out.  When we recovered we went for supper and then took a short walk in town.  Just after I bought an Argentinean Flag the heavens opened and we fled back to the hotel

Bird of the Day   -- Guira Cuckoos and Grey-necked Wood Rail
Observation of the Day   -- Friendly Argentineans

2001-01-25

We left, with others from the Peregrine Tour Group, to be taken to the municipal airport and boarded the plane to Ushuaia. After a pleasant, uneventful flight we land at Ushuaia airport in a pleasant 10◦ C. Stepping outside a Chimango Caracara flew past for the first lifer of the day.  We went into town and organized luggage for the ship, and then joined an excursion to Tierra Del Fuego National Park.  Although we did not see a huge selection of birds the guide did pick out examples of several interesting habitats.  At Lapatitia Bay we could see many Black-browed Albatross over the Beagle channel.  We had marvelous views of a Patagonian Red Fox and a tiny dog orchid,

We returned to town and were taken to the ship to unpack and settle in to our cabin.  Our departure was delayed by some late arrivals, so we did not sail until after supper.  But I was content to watch all the birds around the ship in Ushuaia Bay.

Bird of the Day   -- Black-browed Albatross
Observation of the Day    -- Patagonian Red Fox

2001-01-26

When I awoke we were sailing past Staten Island and heading north to the Falklands.  I made my way to what would become my permanent roost – the port side of the ship’s bridge.  Shortly after arriving there were two whales, which after discussion and reference were identified as Southern Right Whales.  By then we had some Black-browed Albatross and Royal Albatross circling the ship.  The latter I identified with the help of Chris Doughty, the ship’s naturalist.  We also went through lots of Thin-billed Prions and I had my first lesson in prion separation.  I was most pleased to spot the first Fairy Prion and realize it was different.  We also had 8 Gray-backed Storm Petrels and I found a lone South Georgian diving Petrel a long way from home.  The sea was dotted with Sooty Shearwaters that served as a good reference.

Bird of the Day   -- Fairy Prion
Observation of the Day    -- Southern Right Whales

2001-01-27

Approaching the Falklands we had 5 Peale’s Dolphin that rode the bow wave for 15 min.  I saw at least 9 other dolphins I could not identify.

We made our first stop and took our first zodiac ride to West Point Island.  This was a nice gentle landing at a dock.  A family of sheep farmers inhabits the island.  Along the roofs of the buildings were rows of Turkey Vultures – most unexpected.  Behind the house was a flock of Upland Geese and a group of Long-tailed Meadowlarks showing crimson tummies.  We hiked over to the far side of the island to Devil’s Point to watch the Rockhopper Penguins and Black-browed Albatross on their nests.  In passing we were followed by some Striated Caracaras and sung at by a Short-billed Marsh (or Grass) Wren.   This was a wild island with an air of the Orkneys.

We moved on to Saunders Island and had our first wet landing.  Caught by a wave as I stepped ashore, the sea surged up the inside of one pant leg filling my boot.  (Afterwards, I improved my seal by using some heavy elastics to clamp my pants to my boots.)  Saunders was a beautiful if windswept beach dotted with penguins.  I made my way up the hillside passed the Magellenic Penguins burrows to a large rookery of Rockhopper Penguins and Imperial Shags.  Slightly further on was a Black-browed Albatross colony being watched by a family on a day trip from Stanley.  They told me there was an out-of-range Macaroni Penguin in the Rockhoppers, which I was later able to find.

Back on the beach there was a small group of King Penguins and other birds such as American Sheathbills, Kelp Geese and Black-faced Ground Tyrant (an odd flycatcher that behaves like a Wheatear).

Bird of the Day   -- Macaroni Penguin
Observation of the Day    -- Peale’s Dolphin

2001-01-28

Large numbers of Sooty Shearwaters and a good number of Greater Shearwaters marked our approach to Port Stanley, capital of the Falklands.  Big albatross were plentiful but in such plumages that they were hard to identify.

After landing at Stanley, a group of us took a cab to Gypsy Cove.  This beautiful area has only limited access as it was mined all along the shore by the Argentineans.  The British troops have turned the land side into a rubble desert.  Despite this we did see well Black-faced Finches and Variable Hawks (a lumping of Red-backed and Puna Hawks)

After a few hours, we were picked up by the taxi and taken in to town.  We visited the Christ Church Cathedral and bought souvenirs in the shops that were open (It was Sunday).  With some time to kill we sat on the sea wall and I tossed bread to Dolphin and Kelp Gulls and a Falkland Island Steamer Duck. This brought them in close enough for some nice photos.

Steaming out of the harbour we were treated to a Peale’s Dolphin show as they chased fish into the shallows. We also saw a patch of kelp with 5 terns, one of which was an Arctic Tern.

Bird of the Day   -- Black-throated Finch
Observation of the Day    -- Gypsy Cove, the good and the bad side of humans

2001-01-29

In the early morning there were plenty of big albatross but I had great difficulty telling many of them apart.  Much easier was a large pod of Southern Pilot Whales – a carbon copy of their northern kin.  These were shortly followed by a small group of Grey-headed Albatross. There were also a considerable number of icebergs; fortunately widely scattered.  We began seeing our first Black-bellied Storm Petrels and Soft-plumaged. Petrels. Overall it was a nice sunny day with a calm sea. At one point, four Hourglass Dolphins raced along the side of the ship (not the bow) and were easily visible in the clear blue water.
(To my annoyance I missed a Southern Bottlenosed Whale by looking out to sea when it went close to the bow)

Bird of the Day   -- Black-bellied Storm Petrel
Observation of the Day    -- Hourglass Dolphin

2001-01-30

A second day at sea under similar conditions so we were making great time.  Cape Petrels became common and Antarctic Prions became abundant.  White-chinned petrels too increased greatly.  As we had made such good time (we crossed from Falklands to Georgia in 48 vs. 60 hours) we were able to jog south and pass close to Shag Rocks.  True to name there were lots of South Georgia Shags in the air.  We began to see numerous Fur Seals in the ocean as well.  We also saw our first Humpback and Fin whales. 

Bird of the Day   -- White-chinned Storm Petrel
Observation of the Day    --  Shag Rocks

2001-01-31

Our next stop was Albatross Island, just off the northwest coast of South Georgia, where we encountered the belligerence of Fur seals for the first- but by no means the last - time. Dodging their angry attacks we slithered up a steep “muddy” slope, across a mud wallow (Stephanie got stuck and it needed three people to pull her out) to an embankment covered in tussock grass.  Cresting the tussock I was astonished to see a sleeping Wandering Albatross on its nest.  It was like an enormous white box – very cubical.  After photographing the Wandering Albatross through the mist we returned to the zodiac and wandered among the kelp, rocks and South American Fur Seals back to the ship.  We also picked up two women researchers who had spent two rainy weeks in the goo of Albatross Island.

We then made our way to Salisbury Plain on South Georgia itself.  Our beach landing was modestly wet and the thrill of actually making South Georgia evaporated in the face of 200,000 King penguins.  My impression of Kings from films etc. was that they were a bit gaudy.  Adelies were surely cuter.  Not so.  Kings have the most endearing charm of all penguins and must rank close to the top of all wildlife.  They are friendly, charming, affable, curious, noisy, endearing and gracefully beautiful.  By the end of the day the King Fan Club had grown by 100 people.

We entered Stromness Bay, sailed past the whaling station of Leith to Stromness.  Here we went through a ceremony to mark Shackleton’s climb to the beach and the end of his journey at the Manager’s house.   In the half light and mist the mountains of South Georgia were daunting.  How Shackleton climbed them in winter I will never know.  Behind the Whaling station there were 12 Reindeer.  We spent the night in this historic location.

On leaving Stromness the ship’s anchor fouled a piece of very old cable.  This was lassoed and lashed to the bow and was removed at the next stop.

Birds of the Day   -- Wandering Albatross and King Penguins
Observation of the Day    -- The place where Shackleton and his had descended from the mountains of South Georgia

2001-02-01

In the morning we sailed into Grytviken and landed by the cemetery.   All the company gave Shackleton – The Boss – his traditional rum toast and poured half the tot on his grave.  Later and alone we returned to lay a Canadian flag on the grave.  Such tributes are left for a period and then placed in the whaler’s church.

After the Shackleton ceremony we walked into Grytviken proper; or at least the remains of it.  I sought out the laboratory as, in 1962, I had planned to apply for the post of station chemist at Grytviken.  The whaling station closed in 1964, one year before I graduated. We continued passed the whaler-catchers “Albatross”, “Diaz” and “Petrel”, now sunk at their moorings. We walked through the flensing yard past the blubber factory to the museum. Then we made our way to the whaler’s church – S had to ring the bell.  We were picked up in the zodiacs by the museum and taken to King Edward point to visit the Shackleton memorial.  British troops were practicing rappelling down the cliff to the sea while we were there. 

After lunch a group of us hiked up the headland to find and photograph the Light-mantled (Sooty) Albatross at its nest.  This stunning bird gave us wonderful displays of calling and posturing.  I also found a Kelp Gull nest and saw a juvenile Antarctic Tern.

Bird of the Day   -- Light-mantled Albatross
Observation of the Day    -- Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Grave

2001-02-02

We sailed down the coast of South Georgia to Gold Harbour where we had another King Penguin encounter.  For me this was more intimate experience as, not looking where I was going I stepped into a pool of King Penguin pooh.  The rich black sticky slime had an odour that was distinct and persistent.  It needed a complete change of clothes (which were rushed to the ship’s laundry), a long shower and leaving the cabin windows open for a few hours.

Although there were somewhat less Kings here, maybe 100,000, every one seemed to feel this was even more magical a place than Salisbury plain.   However, I am not sure that we envied the two lady scientists who we left behind at Gold Harbour to continue their work.

We continued southeast and stopped offshore of Cooper Island.  We took to the zodiacs to motor around the coast and see the huge Macaroni Penguin colony topped by masses of Black-browed Albatross nests.  This was the first place we came close to an iceberg.  From the ship it looked small, but in the zodiac I could see it was truly huge.  It was great fun to float among the Magellenic Penguins as they came and went to the rookery.  It was here too we realized what prodigious climbers penguins are, scaling almost vertical cliffs to dizzying heights. Somehow, nobody saw how, a couple of Giant Petrels got hold of a Penguin.  A wild melee began immediately with petrels zooming in from all over. These birds were so busy squabbling and trying to get more than their neighbour that they were unaware that one of our zodiacs was drifting on to them.  They carried on fighting even when the zodiac was nudging against them.

After we left Cooper Island we headed for Drygalski Fiord.  As dusk was falling the sea suddenly became alive with thousands of prions (presumably all Antarctic Prions).   Every where you looked there were prions like a cloud of low flying mosquitoes.

Drygalski Fiord was spectacular.  The Moon finally made an appearance with Venus just below it.  This made a great backdrop as we motored towards the glacier that ended the fiord.  (Disappointment of the trip – we never saw the night sky, it was always overcast).  A beautiful end to a great day.

Bird of the Day   -- Antarctic prion
Observation of the Day    -- the Petrel feast

2001-02-03

This was a day at sea identifying the 15 species of bird that were flying over the ocean.  The great excitement came when some whales appeared.  Initially several people (including me) called out Minke, but we were immediately assailed by doubts.  Rushing to the starboard bridge, a crowd of us got quite good views as they swam past the starboard side.  A long discussion ensued with everyone contributing description details. Finally after consulting several books we decided they were Arnoux’s Beaked Whales.  This identification was bolstered by a report I had overheard on the bridge that the MV Bremen had seen this species in this area about four days earlier.

We discovered we could e-mail from the ship.  So we composed a note which Sacha the ship’s radio operator sent via Perth Australia.  As it cost $5 US, we sent it to Christopher
(Who checks his e-mail several times a day) and asked him to forward it to a bunch of people.  It was quite remarkable to be able to share the experience in more or less real time with family and friends.

Bird of the Day   -- Blue Petrel
Observation of the Day    -- Arnoux’s Beaked Whale

2001-02-04

At about 6.30 am we passed 60º S so we were in Antarctica.

We hoped to make a landing at the Orcadas Argentinean research station on Laurie in the South Orkneys.  We approached these islands through fog and encountered a large number of very large icebergs.  The Captain himself steered the ship and we traced a serpentine course through the bergs and bergy bits.  From the bridge the size of ice chunks is deceptive.  What looks like a tiny piece is probably the size of a house and could do a lot of damage to a ship.  The station informed us that the bay in front of them was full of pack ice and so, with the fog and ice conditions as they were, we decided to move on.  I did glimpse one island through the fog.

This was also an area of great animal activity.  There were large numbers of Wilson’s Storm Petrels and Cape Petrels.   We also saw 15 whales and two others that might have been Arnoux’s Beaked Whales.  However, it was the Snow Petrels stole the show.  Normally during this voyage the staff see 6 to 8 Snow Petrels.  We had over 100 that day.  Many were in flocks of 10 to 20 and, with so any around, several came close to the ship. It appeared to me they were made of the most delicate porcelain.

Bird of the Day   -- Snow Petrel
Observation of the Day    -- Iceberg Alley, South Orkneys.

2001-02-05

There were a number of people –perhaps two dozen – who were great Shackleton fans.  This included one of the staff too.  As the weather had allowed us to make good time we had asked (bullied) the tour director, Andrew, that we deviate from course and land on Elephant Island.  The tour director agreed and we steered towards Clarence Island.  This brought us out on the north side of Elephant Island past a point (Point Vincent?) where Shackleton ‘s group first landed.  Realizing this area would be subject to high tides they moved to Windy Point.  We approached this location through heavy mist.  Andrew launched three zodiacs and checked out the landing.  Sadly the swells and cross currents make landing dangerous.  We had to be content to look at the site from about a mile.  To me it looked a very desolate spot.  A tiny beach jammed between a huge rock and a sheer mountain wall.  Even in summer it was cold and stark, a nearby-grounded iceberg adding to the somber atmosphere.

Bird of the Day   -- Antarctic Tern
Observation of the Day    -- Windy Point-Cape Wild, Elephant Island

2001-02-06

When I arrived on the bridge at 5 am the Sea State was 10 (see Table 1).  Despite this there was only one wave about every 15 min that broke over the wheelhouse.  This a testament to the ship and the skill of the crew.  By breakfast time the sea had dropped to sea state 4.

We made our way to King George Island and the Polish Arctowski research station (named after Henryk Arctowski, a Polish scientist who invented the wind chill factor).  We landed at a gravel beach in a snowstorm.  The snow was pellet like and the wind was ferocious making walking very unpleasant.  I was so busy keeping my head down I practically stepped on a Chinstrap Penguin.  This beast was so busy keeping warm he did not even look up.  The miserable weather was offset by the warm Polish hospitality we received when we arrived at the station.  After enjoying some chocolate, I went outside to look for plants.  I did find some hair grass but it was covered in snow and unsuitable to photograph. 

On returning to the zodiac, I watched the sea for signs of seal in the ocean and was rewarded by a pair of Crabeaters going by.  I was so absorbed by these seals I did not notice a Weddell seal that was laid just behind me.  The beast seemed oblivious to the human activity.  Indeed several people had to be alerted not to step on it as it looked like a partially snow covered, large rock.

The US ship “Lawrence Gould” was nearby carrying out research and bringing an Antarctic treaty inspection party.  The team members were enjoying a meal at Arctowski when we arrived and departed when we did.  They were wearing survival suits and had twin 60 HP outboards.  We, in our wellies, got into our single 40 HP engined zodiac.

After supper I slipped up to the bridge to get our position when I saw a small group of Humpbacks.  By staying on the bridge I realized there were several groups of Humpbacks and for about 15 min we were sailing through a favoured territory.

Bird of the Day   -- Antarctic Shag
Observation of the Day    -- Weddell Seal

2001-02-07

As we moved into the Gerlach Strait large numbers of Southern Fulmars surrounded our ship.  There were also great flocks of Wilson Storm Petrel feeding on what must have been krill swarms. This was a great day for whale sightings too.  We had nice views of a group of Killer Whales that were in view for 15 min.  Four whales, three females and a male, were easy to see.  I kept thinking there were 5 whales though.  Finally I realized the was a calf that was staying close to its mother. 

Shortly after this excitement I saw a penguin in the water.  Just as I spotted it, it dropped its head under water.  My first reaction was that it was a King Penguin, but we were out of their normal range.  So I thought it might be a Chinstrap with sunlight on its throat.  I stayed on the bird for two or three minutes until I lost sight of it in the bridge structure.  Just then some yelled “Emperor” and I realized I had made a mistake.  I rushed, along with everyone else to the starboard bridge, to see the bird again.  It was indeed an Emperor.  While we were outside we went past an Antarctic Petrel sitting by an ice flow - another tough bird to get.

Bird of the Day   -- Emperor Penguin
Observation of the Day    -- Killer Whale Family

2001-02-08

On our approach to Wilhelmina Bay we saw two Humpbacks that were breaching and creating a great disturbance.  We lowered the boats and motored to the middle of the water and waited.  Very soon one of the whales surfaced, quickly followed by the other.  For the next hour we sat floating while these great mammals moved around us.

We took the zodiacs to an ice-filled section of water where we maneuvered among the bergy bits and saw numerous Crabeater Seals.  At one point a curious Crabeater swam just under our boat.  We also saw some Krill that proved way too fast for me to catch.

Our next stop was Cuverville Island with its Gentoo colony.  I accompanied Richard, a penguin research scientist, as he examined one of his study areas.  A year earlier this zone had experienced a massive rock fall.  This had wiped out the Gentoo nesting site.  Now the area was covered in green – algae, moss and Antarctic Hair Grass.  The grass, one of only two flowering plants on the continent, was abundant and in sizeable clumps. A skua that, curiously, left me alone attacked Richard. The area where the penguins were was a mat of algae (Prasiola crispa).

We made our way towards Paradise Bay, intending to visit the deserted Argentinean base of Almirante Brown.  However there was already a ship in the cove so we turned to the Chilean base at Waterboat point.  We received a warm welcome, despite the fact they had played host to 400 passengers from the “MV Marco Polo” a little earlier in the day
 
As we left the ship one of our boat party noticed a dark shape on an ice flow and directed the zodiac driver towards it.  It proved to be a leopard seal, information that was relayed to the other zodiacs. Leaving the seal in peace we continued to the research station.  This time we could land at a dock and as the bay was full of ice there was little swell. We were greeted at the dock by a pair of sheatbills with a chick and a great colony of Gentoos We made our way behind the base to have our photos taken standing against a cliff and glacier that was part of the Antarctic continent. Walking back to the dock I saw a commotion in the sea.  It was probably a Leopard seal that was trying to get a Gentoo as it zoomed between the bergy bits.

The zodiac ride back to the ship was a little more complex because of the ice. Both the ship and the zodiac had to travel some distance to find a clear enough patch to offload.  The reward for this effort was two Snow Petrels flying against the face of a huge glacier – a classical sight.  Back on the ship there was a Leopard seal on an ice flow off the bow. It stayed put until the ship had to use its bow thrusters allowing us all a fine view.

Sailing South we passed by great snowbanks covered in “watermelon” ice – pink algae.  At one point we could see a distant “Europa”, a Dutch registered barque, built in 1911 and now giving Antarctic tours.  Sailing this ship must be thrilling and romantic, but I am glad I was not on that vessel in the Drake Passage  (the Akademik Ioffe rarely went over 5 º tilt.  An unstabilised ship would have been going over 30 º)

We made our way down to the Yalour Islands, a scattered group of rocks that were full of Adelie Penguins.  These attractive and charming little birds put on a comedy show.  The fuzzy chicks, ignoring humans, rocks, mud etc., careened with abandon after parents with food.  All this took place against a backdrop of some amazing scenery.

Leaving the Yalours we sailed north to Pleneau Island.  Here we toured amongst the bizarre icebergs scattered about the bay.  We saw both Weddell and Crabeaters seals.  Then we experienced our first katabatic winds.  These are short, sharp and violent.  Repeatedly hammering at us, we dodged behind icebergs to get some cover and zipped across the open spaces in each lull.  In this fashion we made our way back to the ship and arrived in a thoroughly cold, wet state.

Snug and warm again we continued north through the Lemaire Channel. The katabatic winds screamed through this narrow passage churning the surface of the water to mist and buffeting the ship.  Once away from land we were more comfortable and continued our way to Deception Island.

Bird of the Day   -- Adelie Penguin
Observation of the Day    -- Crabeater Seal

2001-02-09

After arriving at Deception Island, we first checked Bailey Head with its huge penguin colony, but the swell was too severe.    I was trying to identify a penguin in the water when a dark shape burst up and killed it.  The poor beast was then thrashed from side to side an classical Leopard Seal style (Although someone later said it was a fur seal).  We turned and ran through Neptune’s Bellows and ran into Whaler’s Bay, on the inside of the encircling volcano walls.  We could see the shoreline steaming and smell the sulphurous gases.  Landing on the beach you could feel the volcanic heat through your boots.  The ground was a thick layer of volcanic ash dotted with boulders of sulphur.  We walked to Neptune’s window, a slumped section of wall and looked out to the icebergs floating by.  The cliff walls were dotted with nesting Cape Petrels, but they were not close enough to photograph.

We walked back through the old Hektor Whaling station, ruined by eruptions in the 1960s.  While looking at an unearthed coffin (empty!) we were attacked by a pair of Skuas.

Waiting for the zodiac we paddled in a pool dug by the staff which had filled with hot water.  On the beach there were dead creatures, killed by the hot water and blown ashore.  Amongst the brittle stars were some fresh Salps – primitive unicellular life forms that have a degenerate spine.  We sailed out past large numbers of fur seals on the beaches and masses of penguins on the volcano slopes.

Our last landing was made at Hannah Point.  We took a slow walk up to a rocky promontory at the east end of the bay to see a pair of Macaronis. (Although Macaronis are common on South Georgia their sites are difficult to access.  This single nest was the only place we saw Macaronis from land, apart from the out-of-territory visitor to Saunders Island.)

We continued by zodiac to a long beach where we went ashore.  A short walk along the beach brought us to a small group of fossils – mostly tree ferns, leaves and trunks. Nice specimens of Antarctic Pearlwort, the second flowering plant – and this one did have “flowers”, were scattered on the barren slopes. A huge glacier dominated the west end of Hannah Point.

Just as we got in the zodiac, someone spotted a Leopard seal that had caught a penguin.  Our alert driver was able to drift close and we all saw the amazing spectacle of a Leopard Seal’s violent lunch from a few metres.  After leaving the seal we made a dangerous maneuver through turbulent water between the rocks to save a long run out to sea. We found out later our zodiac driver’s father had gone overboard at this location a little earlier, when the zodiac was caught by a weird combination of waves that tilted the boat to about 60 degrees.  Ron, 79, was rescued quickly and he regarded it as a great adventure.

The Akademik Ioffe then circled back through islands of the South Shetlands and sailed out into the infamous Drake Passage.


Bird of the Day   -- Cape Petrel at the nest on Deception Island
Observation of the Day    -- Flowers of Antarctic Pearlwort

2001-02-10

Shortly after my early morning arrival on the bridge we spotted two Minke Whales just off the starboard bow.  They plunged under the bow and tore off making tremendous bow waves.  I thought we must have almost run down two sleeping animals and given them a real fright.  The sea state (5-6) in the Drake Passage, while quite stormy for mere mortals, was actually quite pleasant for the Drake.  Later we saw some strange shapes, which we could not identify and a peculiar commotion at which a dark triangle cut through the sea.  Best explanation was a female killer try to get two fur seals.  The fur seals in writhing about provided the strange shapes and the triangle was the Killer’s fin.

Bird of the Day   -- Grey-headed Albatross
Observation of the Day    -- Minke Whale

2001-02-11

First thing in the morning the Drake Passage was a rough and feisty sea (Sea State 7). And it was through this churning water that we made our approach to the legendary Cape Horn. We sighted the island through a veil of mist.  We sailed around the Cape in Sea State 6,.  Then turned north toward the calmer waters of the Beagle Channel.  A huge flock of Black-browed Albatross mixed with Sooty Shearwaters and the occasional Greater fished in bright sunshine as we sailed north.  Just as we got to the mouth of Beagle Channel a Peregrine flew across the bows off the ship – very appropriate for a Peregrine tour.  Shortly after we had two separate sightings of Little Shearwater, before we slowed to stay in the channel for the night

(I missed a Sei whale by being in the wrong place at the right time,  I did see a great spray but could not even tell it was a whale)

Bird of the Day   -- Peregrine
Observation of the Day    -- Cape Horn

2001-02-12

During the night we picked up the Argentinean pilot to take us down the Beagle channel.  ( I think the Russian crew could do this on their own.  After all they did approach Elephant Island  through poorly charted waters, get through various ice fields and sail through a force 10 storm without problem).  As we approached Ushuaia  the sun was out and the town looked most attractive.  A slate-and-white duck with a bright rosy bill whizzed across the harbour.  It could only have been a Rosy-billed Pochard, but it was a long way out of range.  Other birds, oystercatchers, geese, gulls and ducks, were scattered around.

We took our group photo on the dock and then boarded buses for the new airport.  As both the 400 from the Marco Polo and 100 from the Ioffe were leaving at the same time the airport was congested.  How they would survive a 2000 passenger liner (a proposal from some entrepreneur!) is anyone’s guess.

We were picked up at Buenos Aires municipal airport and taken to the International airport.  With some hours to kill we walked to a small park at a mild +23 º C.  While there were no unusual birds all of what we saw had been lifers only a few weeks before.  Eventually we went back to the terminal and cruised the shopping area.  And finally we made the long drag home back to life in the freezer.

Bird of the Day   -- Rufous Hornero
Observation of the Day    -- Palm trees and flowers in green Buenos Aires

General Notes

Ship and crew

The RV Akademik Ioffe is a well-built ship.  It has two tanks running along the port and starboard sides.  High-speed pumps move water back and forth to counteract the roll of the ship.  This works extremely well.  At no time did I observe to inclinometer reach 10º.

The crew was very professional.  I spent a lot of time on the bridge and built up an enormous respect for the skill and efficiency of the deck officers.  We only had one”emergency” – a critical pump failure.  It was handled so fast and smoothly I think I was the only passenger who saw that something had occurred.

The Captain was extremely tolerant of passengers on the bridge.  While most people behaved with decorum, there were some that I found trying on behalf of the captain.  The man himself did not bat an eyelid.

Food

The food was good and plentiful.  We had a marvelous supply of fresh fruit, pineapple, melons, peaches, plums etc.

Typically we had a buffet style of breakfast with fruit and bacon, sausage or ham and eggs in various states.  Lunch was a sit down meal with a light, often vegetarian, dish or a buffet.  In the evening we had soup followed by a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian and a dessert.  The meat included lamb chops, duck, chicken and pork.  The fish choice included crab cakes, sea bass and salmon.  Presentation was well done.

The only time we did not get the advertised meal was during a major storm, when we had grilled cheese sandwiches.

Clothes & oddments

The tour leaders really mean it when they said waterproof clothes. Rubber boots (wellingtons or wellies), waterproof pants and coat are essential.   The pants need to be tight to the boots (I used a heavy elastic band).   There was a laundry on board so there is no need to overpack.

We packed duct tape, rope and telephone wire.  We used the duct tape and the telephone wire. I will include sticky tape next time. My spectacles fell apart (one of the jobs for wire and tape).  Others tried to help by providing spare screws, but none fit. I now have a spare in my wallet and will take a tiny screwdriver in future.

We took pre-printed, peel and stick address labels.  These worked well .  We did not need an address book.  They were easy and rapid to use and took up almost no space.

Camera & Film

I took 50 ISO 100 and 4 ISO 400 professional films.  I used all four 400s and 26 100s.  I wish I had taken 8 400s and 30 100s, plus 10 ISO 200.  This is because the light was often very poor and I had to find ways to stabilize myself.  Despite this I took about 1000 slides, all hand held, and about 10 are trash and 10 to 15 need improvement.

I used an old Cannon AV-1 with a very old 350-mm telephoto (loaded with ISO 400) and a Canon EOS Elan II with a 200 to 400 zoom (loaded with ISO 100).  I also used a 20 to 80 zoom with a close up lens for flowers.

I did not use a tripod, but I carried an 18” spike with a camera mounting.  This is to take flower pictures, but I used it as a stabilizer on several occasions.  All other shots were hand held.  I have a home made handle that fits on the 400 mm.

I wrapped the cameras, film and lenses in stout re-sealable plastic sample bags and put them inside a stout back pack.  This was essential.  Despite these precautions I accumulated enough dust and salt for the Canon EOS to need an overhaul.

Stephanie took and used 12 films with a regular point and shoot camera.  She also had two disposables that took panoramic shots.  These all worked out well.

Whales and Seals.

My identification of seals, particularly fur seals is based on “Seals and Sea-lions of the world” by Nigel Bonner, 1994.  This shows the South American Fur Seal in South America and the Falklands, the Antarctic Fur seal on South Georgia and Antarctica and the Sub-Antarctic Fir Seal (Not seen this trip) on Kurguelan Crozet, Macquarie etc.

Whales were identified using home made flash cards that are a distillation of many sources and experiences.  The northern card I have used for many years.  The new southern card worked well too.

Peregrine

The staff of Peregrine worked hard to ensure we got the most out of this trip, with the minimum of risk and discomfort.  I will certainly recommend Peregrine to others.

Chris Doughty was particularly helpful.  He was proficient at providing guidance on the identification of prions, big albatross, skuas etc. and had a great knowledge of likely distributions.

BIRD LIST A:

Scotia Sea & Antarctic Peninsular

J = January, F = February, U = Ushuaia, S = Sea day, FI= Falkland Islands, G = South Georgia

Species

25 J U

26 J S

27 J FI

28 J FI

29 J S

30 J S

31 J G

1 F G

2F G

Penguin Emperor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Penguin King

 

 

12

1

 

 

200k

400

100k

Penguin Adelie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Penguin Chinstrap

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Penguin Gentoo

 

 

1000

 

 

 

200

100

200

Penguin Rockhopper

 

 

600

 

 

 

 

 

 

Penguin Macaroni

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

25k

Penguin Magellenic

 

6

500

200

 

 

 

 

 

Albatross Wandering

 

 

 

 

20

10

15

5

 

Albatross Royal

 

5

 

2

5

2

 

 

 

Albatross sp large

 

 

 

2

30

 

 

 

 

Albatross Black-browed

50

50

500

50

10

15

50

5

8k

Albatross Gray- headed

 

 

 

 

10

3

2

 

1

Albatross Light-mantled (Sooty)

 

 

 

 

1

1

2

5

9

Fulmar/Petrel Northern Giant

 

4

2

5

 

3

10

 

10

Fulmar/Petrel Southern Giant

25

20

4

10

 

10

30

 

5

Petrel Giant sp

 

30

10

20

20

20

 

6

20

Fulmar Southern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Antarctic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Cape Pigeon

 

6

 

 

 

50

10

1

20

Petrel Snow

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Prion Narrow(Thin)-billed

 

  300

12

1

 

 

 

 

 

Prion Antarctic (Dove)

 

 

 

 

3

30k

200

4

10k

Prion sp

 

200

 

 

3

 

 

 

 

Prion Fairy

 

2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel White-chinned

 

2

 

4

15

100+

500

 

750

Petrel Wilson’s Storm

 

200

25

50

5

30

100

10

1000

Petrel Black-bellied Storm

 

 

 

 

4

50

1

 

3

Petrel Gray-backed Storm

 

8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Kerguelan (Common)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Blue

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Great-winged

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

Petrel Atlantic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Petrel Soft-plumaged

 

 

 

 

15

5

 

 

 

Petrel Gray

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

Diving Petrel South Georgian

 

1

 

 

 

4

5

2

1

Diving Petrel Common

 

20

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

Shearwater Sooty

 

2k+

8

800

2

 

 

 

 

Shearwater Greater

 

2

 

60

4

 

 

1

 

Shearwater Little

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shag -Imperial

 

 

400

100

 

 

 

 

 

Shag South Georgia

 

 

 

 

 

33

 

20

200

Shag Antarctic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shag Rock

2

 

20

50

 

 

 

 

 

Yellow-billed Pintail

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

5

3

Teal Speckled

 

 

 

 

 

 

?

 

 

Sheathbill American

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

6

50

Skua Brown

 

2

5

6

1

2

20

5

30

Skua Chilean

30

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skua South Polar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brown-hooded Gull

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dolphin Gull

25

 

200

50

 

 

 

 

 

Gull Kelp (Southern Black-backed)

100+

 

400

100

 

 

 

200

5

Tern Antarctic

 

 

 

 

 

 

10

50

20

Tern Arctic

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

Tern South American

300+

 

 

4

 

 

 

 

 

Pipit South Georgia

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

 

 

Kestrel American

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BIRD LIST B:

Scotia Sea & Antarctic Peninsular

F = February, U = Ushuaia, S = Sea day, EI= Elephant Island, SO = South Orkneys, AP = Antarctic Peninsular

Species

3 F S

4 F SO

5 F EI

6 F S

7 F AP

8 F AP

9 F AP

10 S

11 F S

12 F U

Total

Penguin Emperor

 

 

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

1

Penguin King

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

300k+

Penguin Adelie

 

2

 

 

 

2000

 

10

 

 

2000+

Penguin Chinstrap

 

200

1000

20

20

 

5000

 

 

 

7000+

Penguin Gentoo

1

 

 

2

5000

3000

3000

 

 

 

12k +

Penguin Rockhopper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

 

620

Penguin Macaroni

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

 

 

 

25k+

Penguin Magellenic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

700

Albatross Wandering

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

 

64

Albatross Royal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

 

19

Albatross sp -large

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

32

Albatross Black-browed

6

4

2

 

 

 

5

6

2000

2

8000+

Albatross Gray- headed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

10

 

30

Albatross Light-mantled (Sooty)

3

2

2

 

 

 

 

3

1

 

29

Fulmar/Petrel Northern Giant

3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

37

Fulmar/Petrel Southern Giant White

 

5

1

1

 

 

7

 

5

2

-

Fulmar/Petrel Southern Giant Dark

 

10

10

6

5

 

30

 

 

 

179

Petrel Giant sp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

20

 

166

Fulmar Southern

 

7

20

20

3000

2

30

 

 

 

3000+

Petrel Antarctic

 

1

 

 

1

 

 

 

 

 

2

Petrel Cape Pigeon

6

200+

70

30

100

 

3000

20

 

 

3000+

Petrel Snow

9

100+

 

1

5

3

 

 

 

 

119+

Prion Narrow(Thin)-billed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

300+

Prion Antarctic (Dove)

2k

50

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

 

30k+

Prion Fairy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Petrel White-chinned

25

20

2

 

 

 

 

9

5

 

1300+

Petrel Wilson’s Storm

75

300

30

 

3000

 

500

200

5

 

3000+

Petrel Black-bellied

20

25

50

 

5

 

1

150

 

 

300+

Petrel Gray-backed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

Petrel Blue

20

2

 

1

 

 

 

 

6

 

29

Petrel Great-winged

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Petrel Soft-plumaged

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

21

Petrel Gray

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Diving Petrel South Georgian

1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

Diving Petrel Kergulan (Common)

3

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

3

 

27

Shearwater Sooty

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

5000+

 

8000+

Shearwater Greater

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

 

87

Shearwater Little

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

 

2

Shag Imperial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

25

10

41

Shag South Georgia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

72

Shag Antarctic

 

 

 

1

30

10

 

 

 

 

41

Shag Rock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

72

Yellow-billed Pintail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

Teal Speckled

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

-

Sheathbill American

 

 

1

 

20

 

60

 

 

 

157

Skua Brown

1

2

2

40

 

 

 

 

 

 

116

Skua Chilean

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

33

Skua South Polar

 

 

 

 

70

50

75

2

 

 

197

Dolphin Gull

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15

300

Gull Kelp (Southern Black-backed )

 

 

 

2

100

50

80

8

 

50

1000+

Tern Antarctic

 

 

2

2

20

20

8

 

 

 

180+

Tern Arctic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Tern South American

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

25

300+

Pipit South Georgia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

Falcon Peregrine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

 

1

Antarctic Mammals

Total Whales             153             No. of Species 7

Total Dolphins             37             No. of Species 2

Total Seals              3625             No. of Species 7


Species

# of days species observed

Total # of individuals observed

Antarctic Fur Seal

6

150

S. American Fur Seal

6

2629

S. American Sea Lion

1

1

Weddel Seal

2

2

Crabeater Seal

4

87

Leopard Seal

2

6

S. Elephant Seal

5

750

Arnoux’s Beaked Whale

2

3

S. Right Whale

1

2

Minke Whale

7

29

Humpback Whale

5

71

Fin Whale

2

13

Hourglass Dolphin

1

4

Peale’s Dolphin

5

33

S. Pilot Whale

1

30

Killer Whale

2

5

Reindeer

2

19

Europen Hare

1

2

Patagonian Red Fox

1

1

Whale sp.

4

8

Dolphin sp.

3

17


Roy D. John
Ottawa, Canada