Photo by Takeshi Goto
I had been told that our trip back to Kume after forty-five years might be a great disappointment to me. Fortunately that proved to be unfounded.
This was the trip of a lifelong dream, and wonderful fun.
Nancy and I were met in Naha late at night by our good friend Takeshi Goto and his friend, who guided us to the August Inn for the night, before traveling on to Kume. ‘Tak’ and ‘Lisa’ and Nancy and I became instant friends, and I found him to be the quality gentleman that I had come to expect from our long e-mail correspondence. Also, thankfully, he has a great sense of humor. Grin.
We arrived on Kume Island late on the morning of the 5th of August. We were overwhelmed by the reception we received. There were about twenty people awaiting us at the Kume airport. There were all of the officials of the Kumejima Natural and Cultural Center, and the Kumejima School Board, along with our friend Asako Morton from Florida, whom we had not yet met, and the television and print press. Also there was Mr. Shokyn Otsuka, one of Japan’s and the world’s foremost photographers.
After some photographs and video were shot, we were escorted by limo to pay a courtesy-call on His Honor, Mayor Takazato, where we received an official welcome, and refreshment. We were then able to express our appreciation to him and the other town officials for their kind welcome, and say a word of greeting from the 623rd Reunion Association.
On Wednesday we were officially welcomed at the Kumejima School Board and then the KNCC, where we got a sneak-preview of the exhibit. Then ‘Tak’ kindly took us for a tour of Torishima and ‘Four Corners’ where we met and chatted with some elderly ladies in the shade of a very old tree, and took a lot of pictures.
Wednesday evening we attended a great welcoming party hosted by Mr. MasateruYamazato, Sectional Manager, Kumejima Board of Education and his wife. The atmosphere was friendly and fun, and the food was absolutely delicious. There began a light rain and we had to move the party indoors.
By late evening the rain had stiffened and stuff began to blow around in the increasing wind.
By the very early hours of Thursday morning, coconuts were falling out of trees, palm fronds flew across the tennis courts, and Nancy and I stayed inside Hotel Nikko Kume Island, where it was dry and safe; worrying a bit if there would even be an ‘opening’ at the KNCC the next day.
Friday the 8th of August dawned clear and beautiful, but there was, unfortunately, a lot of damage to the sugar cane crop.
At 11:00am the opening of ‘Habu Hill Story’ was conducted with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and welcoming speeches. Along with all of the officials from Kumejima Town and the KNCC, was Mr. Karl Lysinger, veteran of the 623rd and one of the American photo contributors, and Mrs. Asako Morton, who so skillfully provided translation for us you would believe she had done translations all of her life.
I had an opportunity to extend to the group my welcome also, and to express our gratitude for the hard work done by all concerned, and to represent the one thousand-plus members of the 623rd Reunion Association.
There were many residents that attended the opening, and many of the commemorative books were purchased or ordered. It was great fun for the two of us old vets to interact with the residents, and to see their reaction to the pictures; especially the older generation.
Also present, were the students from Kumejima High School English Press Club, along with their teachers. They are a great group of young people of whom we are most proud.
We were taken for lunch where we met up with Mr. Bill Richards and his wife Kiku. Bill served the 623rd, 624th on Kume in the early fifties, and we were pleased to meet them at last. Theirs is a great love story! They arrived a day late because of the typhoon, and unfortunately had to miss the opening.
After lunch we formed a caravan of vehicles to visit the JASDF on ‘Habu Hill.’ We were given a Power-Point presentation and light refreshments by the officers and men of the 54th AC&W Group, and presented with a beautiful official 54th AC&W Group patch. We were then allowed to roam the squadron area, and even into the BAQ, where I re-visited my old room. I kept muttering only partially under my breath ‘I can’t believe I’m really here’ a lot. Bill, Karl and I went looking around, taking a ton of pictures, and then we elected to ‘walk the walk up to ops; just like in the old days. Chalk one up for nostalgia. It felt good. Very good.
We were allowed to stay as long as we wanted. As we left, the officers and men stood to attention and snapped a smart salute to we three old vets; a salute that we smartly returned, and a moment that I will never forget.
Still (yes, still) on Friday, in the evening, a grand reception was held at Hotel Nikko Kume Island. It was great fun in a relaxed atmosphere. There were a few more short speeches; GREAT FOOD, and wonderful authentic Okinawan entertainment. One highlight was a presentation of baseball caps to us vets; ones with a cool ‘Habu Hill’ patch and they were presented by Tomiko, our former tailor in the good old days. Tomiko is now 84 years young, and can dance with the best of ‘em. I kid you not, I have the pictures to prove it.
On Saturday ‘Tak’ gave us the grand tour of Kume Island. We went completely around the island and stopped often for pictures and cold mizu (water). We met several residents who were very kind to us. There’s not enough money to pay for a tour that good. Thanks, ‘Tak. In the evening we were invited to visit Tomiko’s home, and got to learn a little of her family.
Sunday we toured ‘Hata no Hama’ on a glass-bottomed boat operated by Capt. Nakamura. His skill at operating in such shallows is the result of plying these waters for many years. Except for such skill the coral would rip the hull of a boat like a chain saw through cheese. Hate no Hama is a huge sand bar on the southern-most tip of Kume. It is a place of desolate beauty and crystal clear water. More pictures; and as the kids say; ‘way cool.’ In late afternoon we were honored by visits from Tomiko and Mayor Kyuzo Takazato, along with his grandson, to say good-bye to us.
Sunday evening was the event of a ‘farewell party’ hosted by Mr. Hitoshi Uezu, the Director of the KNCC, and his wife Kiku. It was a time of great feast and festive activity including music played by our host and by ‘Tak.’ Everyone danced except yours truly (no one wants to witness that, I promise), and there were great stories of old times on Kume. One of the stories was of special interest to me concerning the US Marines landing on Kume in 1945. It is a story that I will be sharing soon. The evening ended too soon, and Nancy and I were saddened knowing we were to leave these people the next day.
Monday was our day to leave Kume. We were surprised and greatly honored that so many of our new friends escorted us to the airport to say good-by. There were handshakes and hugs (trust Nancy to teach the entire Okinawan population about hugs), an even a few tears.
We returned to Naha that day, and while ‘Tak’ and I toured the Peace Park, Nancy and Tak’s friend ‘Lisa’ did some shopping at what was formerly known as ‘black-market alley’. That evening we were the guest of Mr. Masahide Ota for an interesting and informative dinner. Mr. Ota is an officer of the Japanese government, former governor of Okinawa, and is largely responsible for the Peace Park in southern Okinawa.
We rested the night of the 11th at August Inn in Naha, and had to say good-bye to ‘Tak’ and ‘Lisa’ the next day. We were saddened to leave. This was one of those vacations that you don’t want to end.
Kume is as beautiful as ever. The only thing that is different in the landscape, aside from new construction, is that visibility is not as great as it once was because the rice paddies have been replaced by sugar cane and pineapple. Wild flowers still grow on the hillsides, and Sago Palm and Okinawa pine still abound. There has been great progress in the standard of living since my time there, and the population has grown, but not so much as to create crowded conditions. Even at Eef Beach at the peak of tourist season there were no crowds. Dive shops, fishing and tour boats, do well in the clear surrounding China Sea.
The people in service jobs on Okinawa are unfailingly polite and smiling! It kind of freaked me out at first, but then you just relax and enjoy it. Also no tipping allowed. The Japanese airlines have not reached that profound state of political correctness as to hire all comers. All of the flight attendants that I saw were very pretty and smiling, young ladies. Call me politically incorrect, I enjoyed it.
There was always someone to translate for us when we needed it. ‘Tak’ accompanied us in Naha upon arrival as well as departure, out of friendship, when he was certainly not obligated to do that. He made travel, and everything else very easy and pleasant for us.
We were consistently treated as honored guests.
Earlier in the week someone asked me what was the highlight of my trip back to Okinawa. Among all of the high points of our journey, it is this: the people of Kume Jima are among the kindest, friendliest, and most gracious people in the world, and Nancy and I greatly treasure all of our new friendships among them.
August 21. 2003
John and Nancy London
[KG]
