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Monkey Face. Smith Rock, Oregon II/III 5.7 C0

Myself, Tony Case, and Brock Mayo did this climb in April 2001

The Pioneer route was the first route to the top of Monkey Face. The best way to the top is to do the West Face Variation, taking two pitches up the West Face to reach a large ledge called Bohn Street. From Bohn Street you ascend a bolt ladder(C0) to the Mouth Cave. You then exit the Cave to the right via Panic Point, the most exciting 5.7 in the Park. This pitch can be aided at C0 as well, if you aren't into doing the free moves. Continue up and right of the Nose boulder to the top.

Bohn Street can also be reached by a short 5.5 pitch from the backside of the Monkey.

This picture clearly shows the route. Tony is the highest person on the route at the end of the 4th Pitch. Me and Brock are below inside the cave. There are also a couple of other parties below us on the aid pitch.

Tony just starting out of the cave on "Panic Point" I am belaying just inside the cave. Brock is sitting right behind me, but he's kind of hard to see because he is in the shadows.