Rear axle hubs loose but not stripped
completely?
Remove wheel and hub from axle. After thoroughly cleaning both splined
end of axle and inside hub,
coat the entire splined end of
the axle with red loctite. Slide the hub on the axle slowly, install hub
nut and
tghten as hard as you can with
air gun or powerbar. Allow loctite to dry for 24 hrs at a reasonable
temperature. Install wheel and
your off to the races. Can be removed by applying heat to the hub. Mine
has
been holding for two years so far.
Brake drum worn out and shoes
won't grab:
Take off the brake actuating lever and reinstall about 4 notches lower
than it was. You will have to hold
the arm in place while you install
the cable. Re-adjust cable. All this does is pre-opens the brake shoes
and
allows the actuating arm to open
them a little further. If thats not enough, you can remove the actuating
lever
and build up the tabs that open
the shoes with weld which will also open the shoes further. At the fixed
pivot
end of the shoe, you should also
try to build up the pivot point where the end of the shoe sits.
To keep your plastic looking
like new use STP Son-of-a-Gun protectant (I also use this). It keeps your
expensive plastic from fading by blocking most UV
radiation and reducing static electricity.
It does not attract as much dust when riding like Armoral.
If you ride in lots of water, you
may expect rust on the shaft of your foot brake pedal that will eventually
overcome the return spring and make the rear brakes remain applied. The
fix is to occasionally soak
the shaft on which the brake pedal rotates with penetrating oil to keep
it from freezing up.
If your ATV misses and barely runs
after you have been in deep water, remove the boot from the
spark plug, fill it with dielectric grease, reinstall the boot on the plug.
This should make a big
difference in the way your ATV runs while crossing deep water.
for better perfomance you can buy premium gasoline for your ATVs and mix it with octane extender for a net result of about 104 octane fuel.
