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Welcome to the Cardercrest Training and Care Page!

These are some of the training procedures and methods we use for our own dogs, they may not necessarily work well for your dogs, and we don't claim them to be universal, but feel free to give them a read and try. There is also lessons on how to be a responsible and courteous handler as well as how to be a responsible and courteous dog lover!

You're never too old to drink out of a water gun!

The Benefits of Crate Training.

Isn't a crate just a cage and inhumane?

It's a dog cage yes, however the term cage usually drums up the ideal that the dog is consistently in there, much like zoo animals. This is not the case with the crate. The dog is to only spend time in the crate, when it's having quiet times, such as naps, when it eats, when it's chewing on a bone or when it cannot be supervised. The crate should be large enough for puppy to turn around in, but not so big that they have a huge amount of room to play with, otherwise they may not equate it with a den. The ideal word here is cozy..and not the cozy you use to euphamise a tight space. The crate should be well constructed and have a secure latch which isn't accessible by puppy. There are all sorts of makes for crates. I recommend getting a high quality one, you can always save it for the next puppy or loan it to someone else in need. I find a lot of the econocrates are poorly constructed. You can always check with breeders or obedience schools to see if they are letting a crate go in good conditinn that they don't need at a reduced price. The crate should have a tray on the bottom to catch and spills or accidents. There are many methods for padding the crate, and it largely depends on the dog. Foam mattresses, especially made for animals and ones that can specially fit crate are very valuable, and pricey, so you may want to wait until puppy is beyond their chewing phase. I like to zip up some human foam matressing doubled up in a sleeping bag and baste or sew on some velcro at the end so puppy cannot get at it. You can then wash the bedding rather easily. If you have to keep your older dog in the crate for the day, I recommend getting a water bucket and a D-clip to hang on the inside door of the crate so that the dog can drink.

A dog crate is meant to be a very humane tool. It's meant to be the dog's den or bedroom. Where they can go to enjoy quiet time, away from humans and whatever other animals that may be lurking your household. In addition, when unsupervised, dog's and especially puppies like to get into all sorts of things. Many things which can be very dangerous to a dog. Instead of removing every potential hazard to your dog, it's much easier for you and much better for your dog to rest in a crate when no one is there to supervise.

How does a crate help with potty training?

Most dogs and puppies have a very strong aversion to going potty in their sleeping space, so a crate helps confine the animal in a small area, so they will not go within reasonable time. Puppies of course have smaller bladders so they cannot be left in the crate for too long stretches at a time. Not only does the crate help with potty training, but it also helps to prevent items in your house being eaten by a puppy or an adult with separation anxiety.

I have a new dog, and he hates the crate. He whines and howls and I have a hard time getting him into it!

Most dogs have a tough time accepting the crate at first. If your breeder is a saint, they may have started crate training for you. But it's not very common, so don't expect it. The key to getting your dog to accept the crate is to put them in it frequently for short periods of time, and making the experience a positive one. Start off slowly. put a special toy or treat in an open crate and let puppy go in to get it and come back out at will. Do this a few times to get them used to the feel and the make up of it. Then one time, close the door behind puppy, and keep them in there for a few minutes as long as they aren't stressed. This may give them some extra time to investigate. If they get stressed open the door immediately, but carry on like it was no big deal. Do this a few more times as you see the reaction with the stress is getting less and less. Then it's time to move on to the big leagues. Mealtimes! Putting your puppy's meals in the crate can very easily make it enjoyable for puppy. As well, when puppy gets that special chew toy, put it in the crate. The ideal is to get puppy thinking that something good happens when they get to go in the crate. Then there's nap times and bed times. This is when you'll probably experience the most difficulty because it's boring, dark and there's not much to do for puppy. You can give them a quiet toy to play with and leave a clock ticking on top of the crate. Expect some noise, especially the first couple of weeks. It should settle down by then. Make sure to take puppy out frequently during the night, especially if they are young. Put your dog in the crate every mealtime, every time they get a chew toy, or a chew snack. Put them in there, while you're having your shower, or while you're sitting nearby watching TV. You want to let the dog know this is not the end of the world and that the crate is an okay place. So it's important to associate the crate with good things as well as rest and quiet time. When you have to leave to go out, try putting a Kong toy filled with peanut butter and goodies in the crate with your dog. Soon they will probably anticipate your leaving and rush you out the door. Eventually the howling and crying will stop. Especially if your consistent and are practicing in the daytime too. You will have to put up with some noise, but it's a basic rite of passage of any dog owner, and it's well worth it in the end. When your dog starts to willingly go into the crate for rest, you'll see the effects.

What are the risks of crate training?

One of the risks, like with any other training tool is abuse. A crate is meant for short term use. A lot of people wonder how long you can keep a puppy in it. Most puppies are equipped with very small bladders, so you have to take them out often. This includes nighttime potty breaks. It wouldn't be fair and extremely yucky to have a puppy mess their crate and then have to sit in it for a while. So if you are in the process of housetraining and have to leave your puppy for more than a couple of hours, then a small room with everything out of reach and a baby gate may be a better situation. It should be big enough for your dog to rest comfortably, stand up and turn around. If you have a puppy that is going to be a big dog, see with your breeder if you can borrow smaller crates until your dog has matured to save money. Or buy a large crate and put a separator in it.

Another risk is strangulation. This is easily avoided by taking off the dogs collar before putting them in the crate. You've seen it here ALWAYS take your dog's collar off before placing them in the crate! Another way a dog may hurt itself is by not having the crate securely locked. Always make sure that your dog cannot even slip a leg between the door and the crate. Some dogs have been caught by placing their heads in-between the doors and crate and have perished. A good latch on the crate is a definite.

How much time is too much?

This is a widely debated item. Some people do not believe that you should have dogs if you work 8 hour days. I prefer not to see dogs in crates for that long. However I know many people who do do this and their dogs are happy because they go the extra mile. One absolute I can say is that puppies cannot be left in crates for a long period of time. They need potty breaks and they need interaction. This basically goes that puppies cannot be left alone period for long periods of time. If you do work a regular day, then you may have to make arrangements to go home, hire a sitter or a walker to break up the day. A dog who is in the crate for 8 hours during the day, will need some serious human time and exercise. You should also consider keeping the dog out of the crate at night when they mature a bit more. I currently crate Shenanigans while I work 10am-2pm, and during the night, he is confined to the living room. The crate door is usually open and he chooses to sleep in there anyhow, but he has the option. Longer than 8 hours 5 days a week, and I wuld say that you need to find some alternatives. Not necessarily not owning a dog, but you will need to break up the day, leave the dog with friends, hire a walker or doggy daycare. You do have to also ask yourself for both of your benefits if you have enough time and energy to make this work. Some people do, but many do not, and it will save everyone a lot of heartache if you ask yourself these questions before getting a dog.

What? You're Calling us?

My Dog Won't Come to Me!

When your dog doesn't come when called, that is a serious problem. Calling your dog to you is called recall, which is just an easier word for mainly grammar purposes. A reliable recall can very well save your dog's life someday. There are several ways to work on your recall and while they may differ in different ways, any method should focus on you being a good object to come to. And they should all be practised regularly. All forms of recall should be trained on leash and when you move to offleash after lots of practice, you should be in a securely fenced area. You cannot be too cautious.

When your dog is first starting out, use treats, toys, squeakers, anything to get your dogs attention. However the ultimate reward should always be the sound of your voice and praise. This should always be used, and I ideally like to wean the dogs off the treats and toys at an early stage so they do not become dependent to it. Part of the trick or training a recall is bonding with your dog and making sure that you are the center of your dog's life. This can be a little more difficult with puppies or rescues, and takes time. Puppies are easy to distract, and since they are still exploring the world, you have to often look very goofy to catch their eye. Rescues may have a checkered past, so the element of trust building is a key factor. Things to note when training. Make training sessions fun, keep them short and train consistently. You can easily get an hours worth of training in during the day if you split it into four 15 minute sessions. It's recommended by most trainers to keep training sessions short, and I agree with that, especially with puppies who become bored all too easily.

I start on a 6 foot leash, and I walk letting the dog sniff casually. I then say the dog's name, make a silly, but fun ruckus, and as the dog comes to me, I say come. I always use an upbeat voice, with an air of suspense hanging to it. Kind of like when you answer the telephone "Hello?" It's not exactly a question, but it has that tone. This usually works very well with puppies. When the dog comes, I celebrate and praise the dog to no end. We dance, we play, we jump and squeal, anything to get the dog excited and thinking that coming to me is a super thing. As the dog gets better at this, I start saying come a little more closely to the initial communication and closer to the start of the commotion. What I work up to, is basically to saying Shenanigans, Come!

Shenanigans ....................................................... Come!

Shenanigans...............................................Come!

Shenanigans.......................................Come!

Shenanigans...............................Come!

Shenanigans.....................Come!

Shenanigans..............Come!

Shenanigans.......Come!

Shenanigans, Come!

When I have this worked out, and it's working good on a 6 foot leash, I move to a longer leash. A 10 foot, a 15 foot, a 20 foot and a 25 foot. With pups, as they mature, many of them go through a stage which is like the teenage years. Usually after they hit 8-10 months depending on the breed and whether they are left intact or not. Some of them get very stubborn, and filled with nonsense and what seems to be, they have forgotten all the previous training you did with them. For this reason I like to start work on recalls as early as possible. I usually start at 3 months, though 4 months is fine as well. And once the dogs hit that teenager stage, depending on the dog, I may move to a choke chain to remind them of their past training. I do not recommend for everyone, just experienced dog people, because the timing is crucial and the back up to reinforce the good behaviour is absolutely necessary in different areas other than training. The correction is issued only after I'm absolutely sure that the dog knows the work, and it is a quick light pop, usually to wake them up as I see it. I don't do this for every dog, I usually only use it for my intact males. Furthermore, I never correct a pup under 6 months of age. With newer people, I recommend just plugging through with the training, and keep the faith that your dog will mature and return to that lovable creature you picked out.

To reinforce the recall, playing games can help making the ideal fun and interesting. Hide and Go Seek is a popular one for both dog an owner. Start off simple, but by having a partner hold the dog on leash in your house or yard. As well, have your partner distract the dog so that they can't see where you're hiding. Go and hide, and call the dog, tell them to come, have your partner lead the pup to you the first few times, so that they get the hang of it. In games, I believe treats and toys are fine for use. Once the dog gets the hang of it, let them roam off leash, but again, you still need your partner to provide a distraction. And as your dog continues to find you, make it more fun and provide treats and toys. Once your dog starts to find interest somewhere else, you should stop the game. Another game we play to reinforce it with adult dogs, is to have the dog run back and forth between myself and my husband. We give praise and a few seconds on rubbing and such, and then the dog will take off to the other handler. This usually only works with immediate family members to the dogs, and works particularly well with herding dogs I have found, because they're motivated to keep the family together. As the dog is running towards us, we usually just reinforce the recall by calling Come Come, as the dog approaches. With our GSD, we can get up to several field lengths. The extra bonus is that the dog often runs top speed and tires out. Don't start with a too great a distance, but work up to it. Again, toys and treats are acceptable as it's a gain, but never forget to praise.

There are common mistakes that work against the recall.

1) Calling your dog to you to scold it, clip it's nails, bath it, whatever it may not like. Always associate come with fun things and good things, especially when training. Sometimes, you will have to call your dog, to say put it on the leash from a leash free area, which isn't necessarily good in the eyes of the dog.

2) Not being fun enough. So what if you look like a fool, it's important that your dog thinks it's fun and rewarding to come to you, and that's the bottom line. You can either look like a fool and have an obedient dog, or you can look like a fool having a dog not listening to you at all, or have far worse consequences.

3) Calling your dog and not backing it up. Don't call your dog unless you are willing to back yourself up. With a dog in training, I only call them when they're on lead. And should a teenage moment hit my dog, I will tell them to sit and collect them then.

4) Chasing your dog. Don't bother, in most cases you cannot win, and you are putting the dog in control.

5) Getting frustrated. It happens to the best of us. You work hard for over a year and still your dog for some weird reason will not come to you. I once waited for 1 hour to collect my GSD who wouldn't come to me. As much as I would have loved to dump tuna oil all over him, and let the cats at him, I resisted. There is no point in training your dog at all when you're upset, frustrated, mad etc. Just relax, leash your dog, go home, put them in the crate and cool off. This is why it is very important not to let your dog off lead until you are certain you have a reliable recall.

Air Banzai!

My Dog Loves to Jump!

This is a common problem among puppies, pupteens (7months-2 years appx) and newer rescues.

Jumping up is a common and normal behaviour. It can be used to initiate play, show recognition of alpha status to the one being jumped on, for attention, and sometimes even to display dominant behaviour.

More often than not, jumping up is a display of recognition of status, with a little play initiation. Often puppies like to jump up on children, especially if they're living with kids, because kids and puppies make natural playmates. It's their normal way of greeting. Ideally they'd like to get at your face to cover it with kisses.

Sometimes pupteens jump up and latch on, trying to impress that they want to be the head of the pack. This is not to be tolerated. Pupteens like regular teenagers often need guidance as they are trying to bend all the rules in order to become an individual. You needn't be a brutal person to establish pack hierarchy, but this is a time where I recommend strict conduct from the owners and pupteens, until the pupteen has realised it's place in the pack.

Nevertheless, jumping up is considered to us as bad manners. Their claws can scratch, their paws can be dirty, and they can just be too darned big! There are several ways to stop and control this behaviour. They can be used singularly, but often have to be combined.

Method 1. Ignore Ignore Ignore.

Dogs, especially puppies often jump up to greet. We reward that behaviour by paying attention to the puppy which is what they want. They think;

"I jump up on Jenny-Jenny gives me cuddles"
or
"I jump up on Jenny-Jenny tells me shoo, what does shoo mean? Oh well, she's talking to me!"

Many times we allow the jumping up thinking it's cute, oblivious to the fact that the puppy is going to grow up and often going to become a lot bigger! With some dogs, ignoring their behaviour which is unacceptable to us, will often cause a decrease in that behaviour.

To ignore jumping up, most people cross their arms, cut off eye contact and walk away. If you cannot walk away, cross your arms, look at the ceiling and turn around. Often turning around while the puppy is in mid jump can really help get the point across.

With ignoring a dog's unacceptable behaviour, there should always be rewards for good behaviour. When the pup finally settles down, and is either standing nicely or sitting, then praise and even offer cuddles. If puppy then proceeds to jump up again, ignore again. To be fair to puppy, when you do offer praise, do so slowly and calmly. If you can, hold puppy in the sitting or standing position, while you praise. This method is good to combine with other methods, I find it usually works better with breeds who are as sharp as tacks even during puppyhood!

Method 2. Train thy Pup!

This helps with older puppies who have some training behind them. While training consists of the commands sit, come, down, stay, stand etc. Another command should be OFF. You need someone to help you out with this one. You have your dog in a nice relaxed position on leash beside you. And your helper comes up to greet you. They should completely ignore the dog. If the dog jumps up, you tell them OFF and the helper walks away. This is repeated until the dog has the picture. Then you proceed to the handler talking to the dog, if the dog jumps, you tell them OFF and the handler walks away. You progress again, and when your dog has the picture, you can then move to the helper petting, playing and even acting excited around the dog. As you go along with the exercises, after the first few tries, start having the helper pause for a second before leaving. If your dog responds to the command, you the handler should praise the dog lavishly!

Method 3. Some devices may help.

Sometimes with really stubborn dogs we can use equipment to help us out. Shake cans may do enough to startle a dog enough to get down. But it usually requires the help of another person who can secretly shake the can, obviously you can't be that secretive about it if the dog is all over you. Another thing that may help is a water bottle. Putting it on a fine mist adjustment with the nozzle and keeping it by common jump spots has helped many a dog owner. When the dog jumps up, spray some water near their face. As always the minute the dog is down on the ground, you tell them what a good dog they are, and hold them down while you're doing so, otherwise you'll have a kangaroo on your hands.

Method 4. I'm stronger than you are pup!

Another way to work on this problem is to attach a handle lead onto your dog's training collar. Each time they jump up, issue a correction with a sharp no! When the dog is four on the floor, you then praise. In this exercise it's probably the most important to praise, since you are issuing a correction. The dog mustn't think that showing joy in these situations gets him a correction. They must be clear that only jumping up is correction worthy, but the rest of it is a-okay! You can use a bit of a longer lead, and actually hold the dog down by standing on the leash letting them correct themselves. This is not recommended for larger dogs and lighter people, as the sheer strength of the pup can send one flying!

Don't expect any immediate cures or results. Like other things in training, correcting bad manners takes time and patience. So don't go hard on yourself or pup if things aren't working right away. Remember, this happens to most people!

Don't I look like a maniac?

HELP!!! I Just Got a Dog!

This just happened to my friend and he has been calling me a lot because he's never had a dog. Not that I mind, but it sure does make for a good article.

Lets hope that in many cases, people took into consideration how much work a dog is, and has looked over their breed's profile. Many people do not, and that doesn't necessarily make them bad, but it does mean that chances are, they're going to have to work a bit harder. And there are many people who have gotten a dog on a whim, and have made the situation work. It all boils down to one word DEDICATION. You have to be dedicated enough to get up with the puppy several times at night. You have to be dedicated enough to go through potty training, you have to be dedicated enough to regular visits to the vet and just dedicated to put in some time and effort.

If your dog has come from a responsible breeder, than a lot of this stuff will be redundant, as they have given you the skinny and are only a phone call away, but feel free to read anyhow!

Well first things first, if you have come home with a new bundle of joy (and I'm not referring to your kids) you're going to need to go shopping. You have to first find a vet and some food. Looking for a vet can be a topic on itself (see below). Selecting a type of food can be a topic in itself too (see my nutrition page!), but ideally you'll want a high quality kibble and a high quality vet. These are the two things you need to purchase right away (plus water, but you don't have to shop for that!) It's important to get your dog to the vet as soon as possible, to make sure they are healthy. It's always important to know the dog's physical health before training them and working on a relationship!

Now are you ready to get the plastic really burning? This is where the realisation comes that dogs are expensive. You're going to need a crate (see crate training above) stainless steel food and water dish, treats, chew toys, bedding, a collar, a leash, nail clippers, a brush, a comb, shampoo, towels, paper towels, carpet cleaner, a mop, oodles of plastic bags, a scent neutraliser, dog liscence, baby gates or exercise pens, microchip or tattoo, dog tags, training collar, and a whole bunch of nuts and bolts as time proceeds. These are the basics. Don't feel the need to get your pup a zillion toys, they only need two or three at a time. And they need a special one to keep away for only special times. Since it will probably be crate training time, I recommend getting a Kong for that special time. When you put your puppy in the crate, give them the Kong filled with treats and peanut butter to keep them occupied. Soon they'll be shoving you our the door!

Puppies have very small bladders, and they're like leaky faucets until they hit about 4 months old. Thank goodness, because that's when it seems their bladders usually decide to grow and hence they hold more liquid!! But the muscles also decide to grow at the same time, and if you're lucky the puppy's brain's kick in and they usually start to hold it and start whining to be let out. This usually takes place at six months though. But until then, you have to take the puppy out often. Once an hour is good for very young puppies. When you see a puppy sniffing around and looking very determined, that is usually a good sign to whisk them outdoors quickly. When they do eliminate outdoors, praise them til the cows come home!! Make it into a big deal. If they do it indoors and you catch them, say NO!, and then forget your puppy's involvement. Puppies will not learn anything from punishing them for making inside other than negativities associated with you. If you don't catch them in the act, there's nothing you can do but clean it up. This means that you will have to take the puppy out during the night. Take them out before you get to bed, and the first thing in the morning. Restrict their water before bedtime, if puppy looks thirsty, some ice chips can help. But puppies love to tank up on water! Also take them out once or twice during the night. You'll have to set your alarm for this, and stick to it. You want to continue to drive it home to puppy that their crate should be a clean sleeping place.

Where should the puppy stay? Well in the crate when it's rest time. But the puppy should be confined to an area of the house. The kitchen is usually a good ideal, because it's fairly busy and they puppy will get interaction time. Set up baby gates or an x-pen so that the puppy is clearly confined to that area. The crate can be placed in many places. Ideally a nice warm and quiet place. Keep in mind your pup will probably cry while getting adjusted to the crate, so you may want to keep it within an earshot, but not right next to your bed as you sleep. As the puppy gets older and better at holding their bladders until they get outside, you can start to give them more freedom. Try giving them a little at a time.

Augh! Ouch! Your puppy is nipping you. This is normal. My breeder taught me a trick when Shenanigans was a pup. When your pup puts his teeth on you, tell them NO and then just gently grab their lower jaw. Let go as the pup pulls away and praise them when they pull away. It doesn't hurt, but most dogs don't like this new grasp and often think twice about grabbing again. You have to be careful when doing this, as those puppy teeth are very sharp, but it only takes one or two times to get the hang of it. If the puppy is getting too rowdy, just leave the area altogether. Come back in a few minutes, and resume what you were doing. You can also disrupt the puppy from nipping, by making a sharp loud sound such as a yip, when they stop, again praise. You can also at this time provide a suitable alternative and praise when puppy chews on that instead of you. NOTICE Because your puppy is nipping does not make them dominant though. It is normal behaviour for a puppy to nip, they use it as a form of play, so don't panic right away. With their littermates, they would learn that if they nipped hard, their littermate would nip hard back, and if they nipped softly, their littermates would again reciprocate the same way. With us, it doesn't work that way, we have to make them stop nipping altogether. A puppy may try to establish dominance through biting, but at a young age, and without any other serious signs of dominance, it's often just play. Dominance is a very serious concern not to be thrown about lightly, if you do suspect dominance (truly aggressive biting, growling, snarling, lip curling, direct eye contact, possessiveness, forceful behaviour, and your pup wanting to run the show) then you should go to a behaviourist right away as it's not a good sign with a young puppy.

Now you have to find training classes. Puppy Kindergarten is a good ideal, because it allows you and your puppy to socialise with some like individuals and gives you access to resources and knowledge. After that is obedience training classes which start at 4 months. By then, your puppy should have a good ideal on their name and what NO means! Ask your vet for some phone numbers to obedience classes. Ask friends, and neighbours. Look for an obedience class where the owners and puppies look happy and stimulated. If you find a class where puppies look scared or upset, that may not be the one for your pup. Most schools allow you to sit in on a class or two and will consult with you. You should feel comfortable there, as should your dog. You ideally should be training with other puppies, or if there are adult dogs in the class, they should be safe to be around puppies. There are many philosophies of training. I personally do not believe that it is necessary to put a choke chain on a puppy that is learning for the first time and is just a wee one.

Exercise. Well I always live by the rule a good puppy is a tired puppy. After the age of four months, your puppy can start playing with other dogs. There are many dog parks now, and if you'd like to try one, first try one without your puppy. See how well it's run, if the dogs play tough there, if there is a puppy group. If you know another puppy of similar age in your neighbourhood, try to arrange a playdate. Play is a good way for puppies to wear themselves out, without stressing their bodies too much. Avoid jogging, long hikes or runs, especially if you have a medium to large sized breed. These dogs are very delicate. Playing fetch for a while on grass won't hurt your puppy, but going for a 20 minute jog on pavement can wreak consequences long into your puppy's future. Wait until adulthood, and even then I would recommend running on turf.

Now back to the vet. Now that you have a vet, what should you use them for? Well a puppy generally needs a set or two of vaccinations until they are 4 months. Your vet will also help to give you helpful healthy advice and most vets are kind enough to call you when the next set of vaccinations are due. They will also probably be spaying or neutering your dog when they are of the right age. This is a surgery I recommend for most pet people, and will cut down on more intense behaviour, spraying, straying, fighting and as well cut down on reproductive related cancers. Dogs should generally be alters from 6-9 months. Many people are now doing early spay and neuters before the puppies even leave their home.

You've read the word socialisation a few times, but what is it. It's a long process to introduce and accustom your dog to everyday sights and sounds. It's also giving them the grounding to deal with the unusual in a healthy way. Have you ever heard of a racist dog? A lot of people say that their dogs are racist because they don't like black or chinese people. Dogs don't carry our hatreds though, in the case of someone owning a dog for their entire life, chances are, it's just a lack of socialisation. When dogs are not socialised with stimulus, they often react with fear when they do come across that. And fear is often shown through barking, growling and acting aggressive. A lot of dog aggressive dogs are that way because they have not been properly socialised. So how do you go about it? Well start when your puppy is young. Have friends over so that your puppy can get used to strangers. Sign up for puppy kindergarten, but avoid socialising your puppy with dogs outside that setting until they are 4 months old. Take your puppy often for walks through town. When I lived downtown, I had my pup socialised to all sorts of things by the time he was 6 months old. Those who live in the suburbs may have to work a little harder because it isn't as busy. It is EXTREMELY important to socialise your puppy unless you can guarantee that your dog is essentially going to live in a bubble for all of it's life, which is not very fair to you or the dog. An unsocialised dog can be a dangerous one. A note about socialisation though. You have to make sure that the first contact with situations is a positive one. If it's not, your puppy may come to associate that instance with negative feelings. Sometimes beyond our control bad things happen, in that case, we have to rebuild and re-socialise gently. Some puppies are shy, while others bound into new situations head on. It's important, never to force a puppy, but to gentle coax them into the new and scarey area, and then praise them to the heavens when they comply and make it the most fun they ever had!

Grooming is very important to a dog's health. Ears need to be cleaned, nails need to be trimmed, and coats need to be brushed, as do teeth. It's important to get puppy used to this at an early age. Many of these tasks aren't the most pleasant for dogs, but it makes it a lot easier if the dog is obediently lying on their side with their face contorted in a look of disapproval, than to have a struggling dog. Get your vet or an experienced dog friend to show you how to clip a dog's nails. It's important not to nick the quick under their nail bed as it smarts something fierce for the dogs, it also tends to bleed a bit. If you do, don't panic, I once had a woman who lived in my co-op come to my home in tears because she nicked the quick. I took some cornstarch and applied it to the wound and the silly lab puppy lived to see another day. You can use a styptic pencil, cornstarch or specially formulated powders and lotions made for the purpose to stop the bleeding. As hard as it may be, do not make a fuss. Give your puppy a few reassuring pats and climb back on the bicycle in a few hours or the very next day. For the first little while, try to do the nails as often as you can. You can work this, by taking only the tiniest portion of the nail off daily. Just to get puppy used to it. And if you're feeling you're getting too close, then stop. Ears are another issue. Most puppies don't want to sit still long enough to let you clean out their ears. As they get older and grow brains, most dogs soon realise, that it kinda feels good. Take a thick washcloth, put some baby or mineral oil on it, and wipe out the ear. Do not go where you cannot see, dogs have very delicate ears, so no using swabs or any poking thing. By contrast brushing a puppy can seem easy. Now if you have a breed that needs a lot or intricate grooming, it's best to get your breeder to show you how to do it. Hold your puppy gently on a table (I use a grooming table, as it's easy to manage a dog up there) Make sure there is a rubber mat there. And brush them with a soft brush. Give your puppy treats for not squirming. If your puppy is bouncing off the walls and you do not feel that you can safely contain them on a table, then do it on the floor. Use a bath mat or a non-skid mat under your puppy to symbolise to them, that they have to stay still, while you get this done. Don't go for a super extensive grooming, just do a little and progress a little further each time. Consistent baby steps is a running theme in raising a puppy, but it works! Bathtime can either be a lot of fun, a disaster or somewhere in the middle. If you live in a cold place, it's important to keep puppy warm after bathing them, and no sooner than 8 weeks old, unless they get into some real gunk! Use a puppy formula shampoo, and warm water. You can use a cup to rinse your puppy, I prefer a hose attachment to my shower, and I recommend them to anyone who may have a double coated breed (GSDs, Newfoundlands, Huskies, Shelties) as you will need all the concentrated water you can get to someday get through that coat of steel! Try to make bathtime as pleasant and quick as possible. Offer a lot of praise and encouragement.

Now this is going to be an ongoing article, based on questions people ask me. Feel free to send me an email about your questions, or crazy puppy story. I hope to get some whoppers up here.

I need a bath!

I Need to Find a Vet!

Finding a good vet ideally should be easy. Finding a good vet who really works well with you and your dogs is something considered rare by many people. Especially depending on where you live. In my area, I can drive about 20 minutes in any direction and find a vet. However my vet is downtown and it usually takes us a good hour to get there. When you're new to the game, it can be overwhelming to find someone to take care of your precious animal's health, but since they play such a crucial role, it's best to get this task done as soon as possible.

Ideally you're going to know a thing or two about your breed. You're going to want to find a vet who knows about your breed too. Many breeds do have specific requirements for care. Many breeds have lists going around online of BreedX Friendly vets. If the vet does not know crucial elements of your breed, such as a noted sensitivity to vaccines, or a low tolerance for anesthetic, you may have to pass on this one. However if they are willing to make a committment to you to learn, then that may very well be a keeper.

Vets do not know it all. We should not expect them to, nor should they expect themselves to. Remember that vets are people and some people think that they know it all just as a personality trait. If you run into this person, it's probably best to avoid them. If a vet is willing to learn, specific quirks about a breed, then you may be in for a great relationship. But a vet should have a good sized knowledge about dog stuff.

I always recommend finding a vet who is involved to some degree in dogs (or cats if there are catlovers reading this *g*). A vet who has been breeding, showing, judging and generally involved in dogs for more years than you've been alive, can be a great find! But a vet who is involved, is also updated on current issues and can give you guidance beyond basic health. The reason why I recommend this, is because there are many vets who are not involved, and often do silly or destructive things to dogs on a whole. I know plenty of vets who have recommended that a person breed their dog, but these same vets don't know a thing about the genetic diseases involved, or the stifling overpopulation issue. Basically they're recommending an irresponsible breeding! I knew a vet who maintained that as long as two breeds were mixed, that there would be no genetic diseases. Obviously this vet has had not much contact with mixed breeds with hip dysplasia, but there are plenty that exist. Also when you ask your vet about a new vaccine you read advertised in the latest issue of your dog magazines, they may be up to date with the new and current issues because they may have heard about it on an email list or from a judge!

Vets should be very open with discussing your pet's health. You can also ask for a tour of the facilities. If you do not like the look of the place, by all means, do not use them. Remember, they are providing you with a service and you are the client. They should be willing to display a clean and safe environment. They should be open with discussing procedures and medication your dog will be receiving. They should offer their recommendations, but not push you into a decision. Also when selecting a vet, ask for references. A vet should have a good reputation in the community. Check out their establishment with the BBB in your area as well as there is money transacted.

Cost is another factor. While we'd all love to have money to just spend wildly on our animals, most of us have other expenses to think about. After a while of going to your regular vet and establishing a relationship, many vets will and can offer a payment plan for expensive surgeries should your dog need it. Also consider one of those insurance plans if you'd like. We have a good sized RRSP which we can borrow from, should our dogs run into a wall again. (Quite literally too, they don't watch where they're going!!) Don't necessarily seek out a vet based on cost. Although some vets have astronomical fees, take into consideration why. Do they have a large overhead? Lots of on site equipment? Super expertise? A large staff? A vet needs to pay their bills too. Although, if you're uncomfortable financing a new wing to their office, that is completely fine too.

Ask a lot of questions, don't be shy. If this is a person you feel comfortable discussing issues with, all the more power to you. You're going to need to talk to your vet about a lot of aspects of your dog's life and they will be administering medical care, so you have to feel comfortable with them! Are you comfortable with the staff? Did you get to meet them all? In many places there is a high turnover for veterinary staff and techs, my vet often introduces me to them, but there is just often too many to keep up with. Are they good with animals? Are they warm and friendly and competent?

The ultimate test is how your vets get along with your animals. Bring in your animals to meet the vet. Granted your dog will probably be anxious in being in a new place with a lot of strange smells, but how does your vet react to that? Don't tell I told, but Banzai is terrified of the vets. He's not scared to a dangerous level, but his ears are placed back, his tail is tucked, he whines and often shivers. And he will not co-operate if his life depended on it. His vets are very gentle with him, and try to coax him into position. One of the vets is not much bigger than I am, and probably not any stronger. Together we hold him into position. With our other vet, he is certainly stronger than I am, and has a lot more experience handling dogs, and can usually position Banzai in the right way should he need a bloodtest, or a temperature taken. At the same time, as it is extremely important, Banzai is never hurt (though he acts like he's dying!). Shenanigans on the other hand loves the vets, be he hates the office it's too darn warm in there for Newfoundlands! If you have a gut feeling that this relationship may not be the best for your dog, then don't force it. Dogs sometimes know something we can't see. If in any way shape or form the vet is rough or mistreats your dog, run away, and report them!

Now there is your responsibility. Yes, clients too have responsibilities. My husband and I own a business and we know that plenty of clients can be unreasonable. Don't make unreasonable requests. Always act politely and don't expect the world and back. Do expect the vet's personal best though. Always thank the vet (do I sound like your mother yet?) As well as always pay your fees on time. Control your animal, and warn the vet if you think your animal may be aggressive. Sometimes if an animal is acting up, a vet will ask you to leave the room. Animals are sometimes like kids and only act up when there is an audience. Assist in any way you can, after all, who knows your dog better than you do? Don't think you know it all, and be willing to listen to the vet's point of view.

I know, I know, I'm just such a friendly guy!

How To Approach a Dog!

I'm counting on people here and about to spread the word on how to approach a dog. I was at the Royal Winter Fair not too long ago and while I was impressed by many who asked and offered Shenanigans their hand before petting, there were a few who really made me shiver. One was one lady (she was about 40) who approached Shenanigans from behind and hugged him. Naturally he was startled, and backed off. He then started to come back for pets once he realised he was startled for nothing. Then the lady was telling him to be nice and not to eat her. I simply told her that she had startled my dog, and did a very dangerous thing. Had it been another dog, she may not have been so lucky. Another issue was adults who were sticking their fingers into the crate of Shenanigans half-brother. I had to tell several adults that he's resting. They just wanted to see him of course, but that is his personal space and he deserves a break. The last incident that comes to mind is when I was on the phone. I had my purse in one hand, Shenanigans in a sit stay in the other hand, and the phone in that crook of my neck. Adults were coming up with their kids trying to wrestle with the dog. I interrupted my conversation to ask them to please wait until I am done on the phone. They got in a sniff! I really don't mind being stopped every five feet so that someone can pet the dog, even though I have to be in the ring or somewhere in a hurry. But the phone?

My point is, that these adults are really teaching some kids some bad lessons. If you know any adults who do not know how to properly or do not properly approach dogs, teach them! Not for my sake, Shenanigans sake, or their sake, but for their kids sake so that THEY know how to properly approach and pet a dog.

How to properly approach a dog. Well the first thing is asking the handler. That's basic courtesy, plus safety. After they say it's okay, approach slowly. Let the dog see you and don't make any sudden movement or screech. It's not a good ideal to startle even the calmest of dogs. You can ball your fist or keep it outstretched. The only thing I have about closed fists is that with people a little more scared, a dog may eagerly think treats await in that fist and sniff it eagerly. I was having that problem with Shenanigans yesterday. If you get that, open your hand slowly and say "All gone" in a tone like "ding dong". If you do have treats in your pockets, expect the dog to find them and sniff you eagerly there!

Look for a calm relaxed dog. The dog's body language says it all. Or you can look for a super charged peppy lab pup who wiggles his whole body, but you're far more likely to get accidently hurt by those crazy guys. A dog looking at you coldly, or one who seems tense (excessive panting, stiff body language, bristled hair) may not be the best choice. And go with your gut feeling too. When you determine it's safe, start by stroking the side of the dog's head, just behind or underneath the ears. I usually go for the ears or under the collar, as I find if you give a good rub here, you'll have a friend for life. Occaisionally a dog will want a belly rub, again, make sure the dog is relaxed, and not doing this out of fear. But avoid flying paws. With a large dog such a Shenanigans a boot to the head can really hurt! If you're petting a more rambunctious pup, be on guard. They can jump up and if your head is in the way, you will be seeing stars. Also flying paws, claws and tails! They all hurt and while the dog is just being silly and friendly, you may come back bruised if you don't keep your eyes open.

Do not try to wrestle with the dog regardless of breed. I had several people (mainly men) try to wrestle Shenanigans. They think he's a puppy who likes to play. Which he is, but he's also a puppy who doesn't know his own strength when it comes to adults. Even a snip from his incisors from taking a treat too roughly smarts! I've had his jaw wrapped around me when he was being too feisty, it hurts a lot! And because he's a pup, he doesn't know where to stop when he gets worked up. He may be 110 pounds, but he's got a lot of puppy in him. And the second reason is that he is a very delicate puppy. People are often surprised at how easily they can injure a large dog. So don't say "it's alright" when someone tells their dog no for wrestling. It's often just a polite way to get the wrestling to stop. Then thing really on my mind when they say "it's okay" is "No, it's not okay, unless you want to dish out $3000.00 if you blow a cruciate or dislocate a joint" And it happens. My friend had a relative dislocate a joint when wrestling with her young Newfoundland. I've spent 2 years lifting this dog in and out of things with a too high jump to protect his young joints, so it's a big concern. I can bench-press a smaller person because of lifting this dog.

Do not disturb a dog in it's crate, or while it's drinking some water, or chewing on something. I don't know many people who would give their possessive dog a squeaky when there's people around, but there is always someone who does. It's also a good ideal not to bother them while sleeping. Although the dogs in our exhibit could sleep through an earthquake for the most part. The crate is a dog's personal space. People will usually go out of their way to cover it up and keep it out of the way. However with larger dogs hence crates this is not always an option. Even the most docile dog will defend that very intimate space.

Regarding treats. Always ask the owner. You never know if the dog grabs too roughly, had had a ton of treats previously or is on a special diet. One family wanted to feed Shenanigans a ton of treats. I finally had to say no. My usual excuse was something like "He's watching his figure" to make it fun. Invariably it probably hurt some feelings, but just as moms don't want their kids eating six chocolate bars in a row, the same with dog owners. So just look at it that way! A note on chocolate, if your kids are sticky, expect them to be washed by an accomodating dog. So if you don't want your kids covered in slobber, it's probably best to either avoid kissy dogs, and wash your kid's face and hands. This is an absolute must if your child has been eating chocolate as it's poisonous to dogs.

And then there are areas where you shouldn't go. Playing with a dog's tail is not appreciate often by both dog and owner. The tail plays a great part in canine communication and you'd probably feel the same if someone took over your voice box and started sending out signals which didn't necessarily reflect how you feel. I had to stop several people yesterday from playing with Shenanigans tail. Their feet is another place. A lot of people want to see if Shenanigans really had webbed feet. Fortunately I only had one person make a dive for it, and he was just doing it to bug me, and knew Shenanigans inside and out. Shenanigans didn't do much other than slobber all over him of course. But it's a good lesson. Shenanigans like many dogs aren't keen on having their feet handled, because they associate it with nail clipping. Plus Shenanigans is VERY ticklish. He will kick in reflex and it hurts if it strikes a bone! Shenanigans may pull back, and only myself would know how much he can pull back before he risks pulling or straining a muscle. Eyes of course are out of bounds. So is playing with a dog's tongue nose and ears. You can always of course gently scratch a dogs ears to make a fast friend! Generally don't point fingers anywhere as a dog can move suddenly and poke themselves.

When accidents happen such as stepping on a dog, the best thing you can do is make sure the dog is okay (they usually are) and apologise to the owner. That's the nice thing to do. But any dog owner knows how easy it is to step on a dog. Although take special care to be gentle with smaller dogs and pups, as they are more easily injured. Chances are, if you step on Shenanigans tail, he's not going to notice!

Don't pull on the dog's leash, play with their collar or any other equipment they may be sporting. If you're interested, just ask. Chances are you'll get an explanation times ten!

When leaving, just back away slowly until you're out of the dog's circle (usually a couple of steps) and then just walk away normally. It's often nice if you say thank you or good bye, but it's not required. But if you interrupt a handler and they oblige by letting you pat their dog, it's the polite thing to do!

It's so irresistable even to the most seasoned dog handler, not to approach a puppy and just cuddle cuddle cuddle, but I like to follow the Golden Rule. And seeing how I would not like some stranger to come up and start cuddling my puppy without permission, I avoid doing it with other dogs.

All articles and humour on this site are copyrighted to Joy Henderson, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 and cannot be reproduced without express written permission from the author.

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