The Gallery Access: Route D
Approach:
Character: The cliff is quite small, most routes being less than 15m long. It is high up on the escarpment and is composed of very solid rock. These two factors combine to give very pleasant climbing. A good trail runs along the base of the cliff and an open tree filled gully halfway along provides an easy way down. Immediately right of the descent gully are two prominent aretes (Left Arete and Right Arete). To the left of the gully there is a wide expanse of broken rock, before one comes to a prominent leftwards curving overhang (The Arch). The climbs are described from right to left .
Long Climb 5.0
At the extreme right end of the cliff, an area of broken rock projects down the hillside for several metros. Various easy possibilities exist around here.
Slab and Crack 5.1
Going left from the broken area, the first prominent feature is a large leftwards pointing flake. Climb up to the flake from the left. Climb past it to a good crack and the top.
Corner Crack 5.5
Just left of Slab and Crack is an obvious crack running from the ground almost to the top, containing two saplings. Climb the crack or the face to the right. Exit either left or right above the second sapling.
Face Climb 5.8
Start lm left of Corner Crack. Climb directly up the center of the face. A bolt 4m up provides only psychological protection for the crux moves.
Right Arete 5.3
Follow the arete 3m left of Face Climb up to the top (poorly protected). The left face can be climbed in the top section at about 5.4 (unprotected).
Left Arete 5.4
Left of Right Arete is a steep gully with a large tree on the right. Follow the arete on the left of the gully to the top, or traverse in from the gully (unprotected).
Bulge and crack 5.1
To the left of Left Arete there is an open tree filled gully. This is the easy way down. Scramble a short way up the gully. High up on the right is a prominent deep crack, splitting into two cracks lower down. Climb straight up to the crack past a small bulge, and up to the top.
The Slab 5.4-5.6
120m left of the easy way down, the trail passes between a prominent bulging face and a pile of large boulders. Start 3m to the right of the bulging face. Climb more or less straight up. A surprisingly long climb. The degree of difficulty can be varied as desired. Alternative starts exist further right.
The Flake 5.4
30m left of The Slab, there is a huge boulder to the left of the trail. Directly opposite the boulder, well up the cliff, is a flake with a small tree at its base and another tree behind a large triple trunked tree. Climb up to the base of the flake. Follow the flake to the top.
Easier routes (5.0-5.1) can be strung together on the rock immediately right of The Flake.
The Arch Right Side 5.4
Follow The Arch for 4m until you can reach a good hold on the right. Pull round the overhang and move up to the top.
The Arch 5.6
The main feature of the left-hand side of the cliff is an arc-shaped overhang. Scramble up to belay directly below the center of the overhang. Traverse right, and follow the obvious crack up and leftwards to the center of the overhang. Pull round the overhang at a thin crack to easy ground.
The Arch Left Side 5.9
Start as for The Arch. Instead of traversing right, climb straight up (unprotected and difficult) to intersect The Arch at the thin crack. Traverse under the overhang to its left end, then up to the top past a large tree. Alternatively, climb straight up from the left side (5.8).
Crack and Slab 5.2
Scramble up to 4m left of the start of The Arch. Start directly below a prominent crack. Climb the crack to a small tree then up a continuation of the crack to two small trees and thence to the top.