Alvescot is a small rural village and parish in West Oxfordshire. The land traverses both the clay of the Thames Valley and the lower wolds of the cornbrash. This has made it an ideal place for settlement from an early age. In the south of the parish crop marks in Blagraves field indicate possible Neolithic/Bronze Age farming and many small flint implements have been found in this area. The possibly celtic name of Dunbrook survives here and there seems to be extensive Roman British settlement from Blagraves and Pemscott across to South Side. This includes many field finds of local grey pottery, Samian ware from Gaul, sherds from the Oxford potteries and oyster shells. In 1678 a burial in the Chancel of St Peters Church found several brass Roman coins and a Roman tile was used in some of the earliest stonework in the church’s North Transept.
Evidence of Saxon settlement is noticeably weak but some pottery has been found on the edge of the marsh along with a beaver’s tooth and saucer brooch. However there are many references in names. It has been suggested that Alvescot (Elfegescote in 1086 Domesday Book) derives from St Alfege on Elphegus, a monk of Glastonbury. Many field names could give a clue – Bromscote – Beorn moér’s cote, Garsons – Gaerstun – a grass enclosure. Late Saxon infill was found in a ditch in the corner of Gillens.
There seems to have been an expansion of settlement in the late Saxon and early Medieval period. The village of Alvescot, then built along the ridge running east from the Church, was recorded in the Domesday Book in 1086 as being ‘held by Saeric from the King and being 2 hides of land worth 50s and supporting 4 smallholders and 2 slaves’. But another settlement in our parish, Alwoldesberie, at this date ‘returned 4 hides being worth £4.00 and boasted 5 villagers, 6 smallholders and 2 slaves’. Two other small settlements of Bromscott and Pemscott were ‘2 hides and 1 virgate’.
Alvescot was at this date under the large parochia of the Minster of Bampton but an agreement between the Bishop of Exeter and Richard de la Mare in 1108 saw the dedication of the Capella de Elfegescote. Some of the stonework in the North Transept of the church dates from this period, but the chapel was only to serve Richard’s tenants. However, by the early 1200s the present font was installed and the church had its own rector, although no burials for another 300 years - these were at Bampton.
By the time of the Bampton Hundred Rolls of 1279 the population had grown considerably both in Alvescot and Awaldesbury and the main Landholders were Lord Robert de Mussegros, holding the Manor of Alvescot ‘for providing an Usher in the King’s household’, and Robert de la Mare, holding Awaldesbury from Lord Benedict de Blacham for half a Knight’s fee.
Although Awaldesbury is now a lost village I feel sure it was in the region of Round Close where the Green Lane crosses the railway line. Across three fields is a scattering of Medieval pottery of 11th Century to 15th Century, particularly remnants of the Oxford Pot and salt glazed Minety ware. Two horseshoes have also been found, one a Guildhall shoe of 1250-1300 and another dating to 1350. Aerial photos show a main street and a fairly substantial house alongside, with smaller house platforms. The field Pemscott is next to this site and there may be a philological connection between the family name Penn and Pem.
In 1360-61 the Church, along with the Manors of Alvescot and Awaldesbury, was given as a gift to the Priory of Edington, Wilts, by William Golaffre, who had it as a gift from John de la Penne.
William of Edington, Bishop of Winchester, set up the Priory of Edington as the last monastic foundation of Medieval England - and had to pay for a royal pardon for disposing of property without Royal Consent. If property went to a religious body the Knight’s Fee went to ‘mortmain’, i.e. dead hand - unable to lift a sword, and the Crown lost its military service.
The monastic farming centre may well have been Park Farm as there is evidence of building of this period, some rather grand columns for a cart shed, and nearby an old field name of Priors Meadow.
During the ownership by Edington Priory the administration details were written down in the Cartulary, now in the British Museum. It is noted that the dedication of Alvescot church is to St Nicholas at this time.
Other points of interest during this period include the Will of John Bond in 1498-99, granting 100 sheep for the building of the church ‘Towre’! A substantial manor house was built north of the Church. Remains of a massive boundary ditch and a hollow way leading down to the mill can still be seen, and building platforms, including maybe a round dovecote.
‘Ridge and furrow’, formed from ox ploughing, can been seen in many areas of the parish.
During the 15th Century Awaldesbury and Bromscott cease to be recorded. Maybe they merged with Alvescot, or could the field Black Pitts hold the answer?
During the 16th Century we have several key points. Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, and in 1540 Sir Anthony Hungerford bought Alvescot. The village moved down from the Church and dwellings were along the road and on the edge of the green. A lintel in Manor Farm is dated 1563. The old village site was gradually abandoned, but in 1619 Sir William Ayshcombe purchased the Manor for £300.00 and built Shield House. It was in this house that a weary Charles I, his two sons and Lord Falkland, sheltered on September 17th 1643, two days before the battle of Newbury in which Lord Falkland died. The divisions of the country were mirrored in our community when a churchwarden, Thomas Ditch, was told not to take his gun to church to make sure the curate, Ferriman Twitty, wore his surplice to services.
By the early 18th Century problems were of a more mundane nature. One of these is illustrated by the story of the rector, Samuel Adams, writing to the Bishop for advice over the reluctance of Alvescot godparents at baptism to condemn the Devil and all his works, in that some would be a reasonable compromise!
Sir William and Katharin Ayshcombe had six daughters so the Manor was split up and became a little confused with disputes over the title ‘Lord of the Manor’.
The 18th Century was the time of great agrarian change both in the setting up of new methods of farming, and Model Farmsteads to go with them, and the enclosures of 1796 for Alvescot. In the village two farms were rebuilt as Model Farmsteads. One was Park Farm, built by Richard Kirby (datestone 1741), with some fine ashlar stonework and distinctive porch coverings to the house.
The other was Home Farm and Shill House, built by James Nalder in 1798. Nalder owned the engineering works at Challow and was involved in developing new agricultural machinery. This farmstead boasted a dovecote (now rebuilt), a granary on staddlestones, and a clock tower.
The first steam engine was later installed in Home Farm with a decorated chimney to the engine house. After enclosures new farms were created in outlying areas of the parish – Kenns Farm, Bazeland Farm Alvescot Downs Farm, and Field Farm.
There is record of a Friends Meeting House behind Park Farm. No evidence now exists, but non-conformism was strong in the area and large outdoor meetings took place on Gospel Bush Furlong on the Shilton Road. During the 1800s there was religious competition - both Methodist and Strict Baptist Chapels were built. New prosperity saw St. Peter’s Church being given a drastic overhaul – raising the ceiling and installing the windows in the South Transept. These were produced by William Morris’s company – Ruth the Reaper and Christ the Sower, both designed by Edward Burne-Jones and painted by Titcomb.
In 1804 the first Oakey, Alexander, came to the village and built The Poplars (now Rose Barn House and Cottage, and opened up a quarry and lime kiln. Later Oakeys farmed, ran the Plough, and operated landaus and broughams from the Old Bakery for railway passengers alighting at Alvescot Station. The East Gloucestershire Railway came to Alvescot in 1874, although it was run by GWR from the start. Harry Mitchel worked down the line for GWR making fences. When he reached Alvescot he settled in the village as the village hurdle-maker. Mrs Mitchel remembered a small dame school being held in a cottage before the present school was built.
The last century has seen maybe the greatest changes, with increased transport and greater mechanisation on the farms. Two World Wars have taken their toll of village men, and evacuees settled here.
The railway was closed in Mr Beeching’s reforms, and we have lost the petrol pumps and village store. The Methodist Chapel became the Reading Room and then the headquarters for ‘Skip’ Oakey’s 1st Alvescot Air Scouts - that building has now gone. The Baptist Chapel has been converted to a house, but the steps by the Shill used for total immersion baptisms are still by Tanners Mill. Dutch Elm disease altered our landscape dramatically, including the Stocks Elm in the centre of the village. The Royal George and Red Lion no longer quench villagers’ thirsts, but the Plough continues the noble trade. ‘Outwear’ stands where the village store and post office once stood, and is now a thriving clothing shop.
Stocks Elm and Village Green in the early 1900s
The village was declared a Conservation Area and a Development Area almost simultaneously, and new building brings new folk, who become part of the village community.
Although most employment is now outside the village, Alvescot still retains its character of an agrarian based settlement with working farms centred on the village.
Acknowledgements:-
D. R. Mason’s excellent booklet.
R. A. Chambers for interpretation and ideas.
Oxford Record Society – Bampton Hundred Rolls.
John Morris – Domesday Book Translation.
The Landscape, which tells its own story.
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