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GORED UNDER-PETTICOAT
TARTAN PATTERN, IN KNITTING
BY MRS. Jane Weaver.
Peterson’s Ladies National Magazine
March 1864
Page 233 & 234
 
This Petticoat is made in five widths, sewed together after they are worked; they are narrowed toward the top, which is finished off with an elastic band fastened at the back.  The chief part of the work is in plain knitting, and the five widths will make the petticoat two yards and a half round; one yard in length is the usual size, but as this must depend on the height of the wearer, it can easily be made longer or shorter.

In the following directions the principal part is of white wool, the Tartan being black and scarlet, but they can be varied; and if colored wool is preferred to white, it will look equally well in mauve, Magenta, or blue; with the Tartan all white, or white and black.

Materials. – 1 pound of white, 4 oz. of scarlet, and 4 oz. of black 4-ply fleecy; or, if wished very light, knitting worsted may be used.  A pair of knitting-pins, No. 3 bell guage; they need be only twelve inches long.

First White Stripe. – Commence with the white wool, and cast on 66 stitches.

Knit 12 rows quite plain, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row, that is, taking it off without working it.

First Tartan Stripe. – Join on the black wool, and knit 3 rows plain, always slipping the 1st stitch throughout the work, unless directed otherwise.

4th row – Black.  Knit the 1st stitch, but before taking it off the pin, turn the wool twice round it, and then take it off; this will make a long stitch in the next row.  Knit another stitch the same as the last; then knit 4 plain; continue knitting 2 stitches with the wool twice round the pin, and then 4 plain alternately, to the end of the row.  Leave the black wool, and tie on the scarlet.

5th row. – Scarlet.  Knit 4 plain, slip the next stitch, taking off the double loop; slip the next stitch the same; continue knitting 4 plain, and slipping 2 stitches to the end of the row.

6th row. – Scarlet.  Keep the wool in front of the pin, and slip the 2 black loops; then pearl the 4 scarlet stitches and repeat, slipping 2 and pearling 4 alternately to the end.

7th row. – Scarlet.  Knit 4 plain, then slip the 2 black loops and knit 4 plain, alternately; the row will end with the 2 black loops.

8th row. – Scarlet.  Keep the wool in front of the pin, slip the 2 black loops and pearl the 4 scarlet stitches alternately to the end.

9th row. – Scarlet.  Knit 4 plain and slip the 2 black loops, alternately to the end.

10th row. – Scarlet.  Keep the wool in front, slip the 2 black loops and pearl the 4 scarlet stitches alternately to the end.  Leave the scarlet wool and work with the black.

11th row. – Black.  Slip the 1st stitch, knit the rest of the row plain, working all the scarlet and black stitches.

Then with the black wool knit 2 rows more all plain.

14th row. – Black.  Knit 3 plain, (knit 2 stitches, turning the wool twice round the pin, and then knit 4 plain alternately): the row will end with knit 1 plain.  Leave the black and work with the scarlet wool.

15th row. – Scarlet.  Knit the 1st stitch, then slip the two next long loops, and knit 4 plain, alternately; the row will end with 3 plain instead of 4.

16th row. – Scarlet.  Pearl 3, then slip the 2 black loops and pearl 4, alternately ending with pearl 1.

17th row. – Work as the 15th row.

18th row. – Work as the 16th row.

19th row. – Work as the 15th row.

20th row. – Work as the 16th row.

21st row. – Black.  Slip the 1st stitch, and knit the rest of the row plain, working all the black and scarlet stitches.

Knit 2 rows more all plain.

Then commence again at the 4th row, and work as that row and the 7 following rows to the end of the 11th row; then with the black knit 3 rows plain, which finishes the stripe.  Join the white wool to the black, fastening the end of scarlet.

Second White Stripe.  – 1st row – White, Slip 1, knit 5, then (knit 2 stitches together and knit 3 plain, alternately to the end); this will decrease 12 stitches.

Knit 13 rows plain, and join on the black:

Second Tartan Stripe.  – Commence at the 1st row of the 1st Tartan stripe, and repeat the same to the end of the 21st row; then, with the black wool, knit 3 plain rows more, and join on the white for the upper part of the petticoat.

1st row – White.  Slip the 1st stitch, then knit 2 together and knit 4 plain alternately to the end.

Knit 31 rows or 16 ribs quite plain.

33rd. Row. – Slip the 1st stitch, then knit 2 together and knit 5 plain alternately to the end of the row.

Knit as many more plain rows as will be required for the length, and cast off.

Work three widths more the same as the first, then for the

Front Width. – Cast on 90 stitches, and work as the other widths, but omitting the last row of decreasing in the white part.  This will not require to be as long as the others; to shape it at the front of the waist, it will sit better if worked as follows:  – Knit the white part to within about three inches of the length required, then work only half the row, and, leaving the other half of the stitches on the pin, turn back, and knit to the end of the half row.  In the next row knit to within two stitches of the center, and, turning back, knit to the other end.  Continue the same for the three inches, that is, leaving two stitches more each time at the center.  When finished, cast off all the stitches of this side, and, commencing at the stitches left of the other side, work it to correspond, by leaving two stitches of each row at the center.

In sewing the widths together, a rug-needle and the wool should be used; at the Tartan stripes the scarlet should be sewed first, with the same color; and then the black with the black wool.