Suspension Lift Information

Here is some helpful information on doing a 3.5" Superlift. When you do one the 6 degree "C" bushings are the best ones to use. They allow the right angle for the radius arm. You should also replace the Radius Arm Bushings that way the old still rubber ones are no longer bouncing around causing a shimmy. Another helpful thing to replace is the Trac bar. This allows the front end to be realigned and your turning radius to be restored back to normal. Lengthening the rear drive shaft is also recommended. About 2 inches is what you are going to have to lengthen it. As all ways longer brake lines are needed. I personally used Superlifts Braided Steel front brake lines, they are about 5" longer than stock. My rear break lines where also replaced with Superlift lines. The last thing that I found needed to be changed and the one thing that was least noticeable was the differental vent hoses. Which where dry and cracked. I replaced them with new rubber fuel line that was about 8" longer than stock and faced them backwards that away water would not get into them.

Body Lift Information

This is information on using a 3" "Performance" body lift. This warning should be taken seriously. I ran into many problems when doing this lift. I've read many articles and done lots of research on lifting this truck and none have mentioned these problems. First things first. Replace the Body Mount Bushings. Why spend the time and the money to do something half way. Its worth the little extra money that it will cost to replace them but it is well worth the investment. Now for the not so common things. Second!! You will need to cut a bigger hole in the floor for your transfer case (in a J-shift) shifter. The throw is much greater when the body is 3" higher. (I do not know how this will work with a manual transmission that is on the floor. Mines an Automatic) Third!!! The shifter linkage has to be modified. Fourth!!! Lengthening the steering shaft is a must. 1 1/4"'s is the right length to lengthen the shaft. A 3/4" grade 8 bolt(one with about a 2" shank) is the perfect match. The throttle linkage can usally be lengthend by turning the linkage out about 1". The Master Cylinder to the proportioning valve lines also need to be changed. Good luck in finding the right lines to work here. All of the major suppliers are out. I just did some fancy bending and was able to gain about 1" of movement in them. The Emergency brake lines also have to be lengthen to allow proper use of the E-brake. And of course the exhaust has to be remounted. Last but not least, the bumpers should be remounted to give that natural look.

Door Post Replacement

I recently had to replace the passenger door post on my Bronco, boy was that a pain in the BUTT. Truthfully it really was not that hard. I ordered a replacement door post from Wild Horses and it was a perfect fit. I like many other Truck builders have learned that most replacement parts don't fit worth a darn but this was a perfect fit andm I was rather surprised. After some fancy work with an air chisel, pair of pliers, and a flat head screwdriver it was out in about two hours. However, before you remove the post it is best to measure from the back post to the front post top and bottom and remember to write down the measurements. The best way to do it is just to take your time and measure often. When you are ready to place it into place dont force it. You might have to bent the top tab around to get it to fit in just right. A little metal triming might be needed pending on how clean you took the other one out. Its only metal and it will bend so be easy on it. Then place the new post in and clamp it down using a pair of "C" style vise grips.Then measure it out again. If it's right tack it into place. Weld about a 1in strip about every 3in. Remember not to let it get to hot or it will warp. Keep a bottle of cold water by you to cool it(the door post) down if it gets to hot and take a break for a min to allow it a chance to cool down. Its really fairly simple and can be done in about 5 hrs if your an semi-experienced welder and willing to take your time.

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