I have patterns. Lots of patterns. I love patterns. And my collection is growing daily. From old vintage commercial patterns to new commercial patterns, custom patterns, booklets of patterns and magazines with patterns, including knitting and crocheting patterns. The question is, What to do with them? How can I tame the "pattern monster"? And these pattern pieces are so SMALL! Just call me "fumble fingers"! How can I prepare and use these tiny pieces to make sewing easier? If you can identify with any of these declarations, then perhaps you will find some useful pointers ahead.

Just having patterns isn’t enough—unless you don’t sew, never intend to sew, but just love collecting patterns. And I know there are some avid pattern collectors that fall into this category. Whether you just collect or collect to sew, looking for a pattern you know you have and not finding it can be frustrating. And not knowing for sure whether you have a pattern can lead to purchasing duplicates, which is also frustrating. I admit to having a few!

My system is a work in progress and I’ll share with you what I’ve done so far. "Taming the monster" is a constant battle. I started by making a list of what I have. It soon became obvious that I needed several lists. I had two purposes. One was to identify what I had; the second was to be able to find a particular pattern so I could make an outfit. Identifying this two-fold purpose helped me devise a method to achieve the result I wanted. It also made it possible to prepare a list (I carry a 3x5 card to carry in my pocket calendar with pattern numbers) of what I am looking for to prevent buying duplicates (will anyone else join me in admitting to buying patterns they already had?).

I started on paper and am in the process of putting my lists in the computer. The first identifying category is the source, such as Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, Vogue, Mini-Fashion Boutique, Aileen’s Petite Fashions, etc. After the source heading, I listed the number and date for a commercial pattern, the doll(s), quantity and description of outfits, condition of pattern (uncut, cut, pieces missing, etc.) and what I paid for it. (For a list of commercial Barbie-type/family patterns, refer to Miller’s Price Guide. I plan to publish a more complete list, including other dolls, in the future.) MFB archive patterns (these are the original ones I designed and published back in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s) are listed by newsletter and booklet name or pattern sheet. Then I cross reference the individual patterns by doll, again with the date and newsletter issue or booklet, etc. You decide what information is important for this list. Having these lists in the computer allows searching for specific words. For instance, to find one-piece jumpsuits I would search for "jumpsuit."

I used an alphabetical system in order to find specific pattern designs. This requires describing or naming the outfit (if it doesn’t already have a name) so you can find it easily. Categorizing by type—evening gowns, costumes, vintage reproductions, casual, accessories, crochet, knitting—can also help. For Aileen’s 250 patterns, I made two lists—a numerical list and an alphabetical list or index. With nearly a thousand patterns total (and I’m always adding new ones), many with several views, this "monster" may never be completely tamed!

Once you have catalogued your pattern collection, you can then identify missing ones that you would like to have. I list these on the 3x5 card I carry with me. As I find one, I mark it off the list. Keeping the list current will also help avoid picking up duplicates.

I don’t like to cut and use my original patterns, therefore I need two methods of storage: one for the original pattern and another for the "working" pattern.

My original patterns are stored by source to match my master list for each. I obtained pattern boxes from a local store that are 6" x 9" x 24" long that were used for shipments of patterns. Smaller versions are available to purchase at some fabric stores, or use plastic boxes with lids. Label the boxes "Simplicity," "Vogue," etc. I also have a revolving pattern rack that I was fortunate to get from a local store that went out of business. I like to put my new treasures on this rack for awhile to enjoy looking at them and dreaming of ways I want to use them. This also keeps them front and center while I’m narrowing down my selections and experimenting.

Because I prefer keeping my original patterns intact, I make a copy of the pieces I want to sew. Sometimes I simply trace the pieces on white tissue or extra pattern tissue I have saved. My preferred method is to photocopy the pieces because this is much more accurate and all the detailed markings are there. To prolong the life of these copies, press fusible web to the back. These copies I keep in a ziplock bag which I label with pattern number, view and doll, and store in a plastic box by doll and type of design. Copy any instructions you might need and put with the pieces. Fabric and trim samples can also be put in the bag with the pattern pieces.

Another method requires actually cutting the pattern envelope and gluing to the front of a file folder. I can’t bring myself to do this, but a photocopy would work as well.

Another system was shared with MFB over thirty years ago by Nan B. and printed in the March/April 1971 newsletter. I was delighted to hear from her after all these years—she is still sewing for Barbie and using this same system! Her unique idea uses the pictures from the pattern envelope to illustrate the fashions she makes to sell. She puts a picture of an outfit on a 3" x 5" card (cut out the view for the pattern envelope, make a photocopy or drawing and color to match, or take a photo of the completed outfit). This is a copy of a sample card Nan sent in 1971, which I thought would be fun to include in light of the "nostalgia" associated with this first issue.

On the back of the card list the kind of outfit, i.e., nighty, blouse and skirt, or as in her example, Evening Pantsuit. She also puts the pattern name, number and view, then the price (Pantsuit 75¢ is from 1971!). List two or three-piece outfits on separate cards as some will want a different top, pants, etc. The back of the pattern envelope (or a copy), which has back views, yardage, etc., is pasted on the front of a 6½" x 9½" manilla clasp envelope. Across the top, write the pattern name and number. The pattern pieces and instruction sheet are put inside and are filed in numerical order. The 3" x 5" cards are filed, picture to the front, one box for Barbie, another for Skipper, and Ken. When ordering, people take out the cards they wish and the orders are recorded, then the cards are put back in the file, ready again for viewing.

While this type of system takes time to set up, it is well worth the effort to enhance taking orders.

Whatever method you use, "taming the pattern monster" will save you time for more sewing. We're always interested if you have another system you would like to share with us.

So now your patterns are cataloged, organized and filed. But you're not quite ready to start sewing yet. Usually the first comment I hear from sewers is how small the pieces are! It is easy to distort the pieces when pinning the pattern to the fabric and cutting out. It is also easy to distort the shape if cutting on a fold. What kinds of markings should you transfer and how? What if you want to make multiples? Here are some preparations that I do (based on trial and error and experimentation over the years) that can simplify using your patterns and enhance your sewing. I invite you to send in your ideas as well.

Make a copy. First, I never cut out the original pattern but make a working copy, either a tracing or photocopy. Backing the pieces with fusible web will make them more durable.

Eliminate "on fold." If a pattern is to be cut on a fold, make a new pattern piece that can be cut out flat. Be sure to transfer any pertinent markings to the mirror half you have added.

Make a template. Paper patterns are fine for normal use, but cutting out several outfits from the same pattern wear out your pattern pieces, even if you have backed them with fusible web. Making a more permanent pattern piece, or template, is the perfect solution. There are several sources, such as quilting template plastic or the clear plastic fronts on doll boxes; even X-ray film is suitable except the fabric design is blocked for ease in placement. After the template has been cut out, transfer markings with a fine-tipped, permanent marker. Use a heated pin or X-Acto knife to make holes for dolts and other markings. This will permit the use of a fabric pencil for marking on fabrics.

For small pieces or slippery fabrics, place the template on the wrong side and pin layers together around the outside of the pattern piece. Hold the pattern piece in place and using a fabric pencil, carefully draw around the outside edges. When cutting, trim away the fabric pencil line. This method is also beneficial if the fabric leaves pin marks. Some satins and velveteens are notorious for showing pin markings, so even pinning to sew must be done in the seam allowances (or use sewing tape).

For very small pieces, a paper template can also be make using freezer paper. Press it to the wrong side of the fabric (pin around outside if two layers). Cut around pattern and peel away; it can be reused.

Pattern markings. Patterns generally have dots and notches. I personally don’t like notches. The V notch that is nipped into the seam allowance is dangerous when the seam allowance is only ¼"! And the outward V notch if not only awkward to make but huge on tiny garments. When I first began sewing for myself, I would go back and trim them off when finished because they were the telltale sign that the garment was "homemade." I quit using them.

Instead, use fabric or "dressmaker’s" pencils for marking. They come in white, blue and pink., and the marks are accurate and easily brush away. Choose the one that will show up on the color of your fabric. There are also quilting pencils and pens. Some "disappear" after 48 hours, but if you press these marks, they become permanent, so I find it safer to use the pencils. If marking something on the right side of the fabric, first make a test mark on a scrap and then brush it off to see how it will work. Even a #2 hardness pencil can leave a mark. Never, never, NEVER use a ballpoint pen! I have seen this on some doll fashions at doll shows that otherwise were beautiful. Tacky, tacky, tacky! I don’t know what else to say.

I invite you to send me your comments on this subject, and any other suggestions you may use or topic ideas that I can pass on to our readers. Pictures are also welcome. (If you are not able to send them by email and wish to mail them to me and would like them returned, please include a SASE.) Selected "readers’ hints" will receive a free pattern certificate.

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