Using your patterns

Fabrics 101

(third in a series)

Fabric type and scale should be considered when selecting fabric for doll fashions. Fabrics suitable for "people" garments may not work as well in smaller garments. First, we'll cover a (brief) basic review of fabric types and what to look for, then scale.

Types

Have you been in a fabric store lately? (That's probably a silly question!) There are so many beautiful fabrics, both natural and synthetic, and numerous combinations. The weave may be loose or very tight and smooth. From cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester blends, rayon, linen, wool, silk, nylon, satin and lame to velvet, brocade, sequin, faux fur—the choices are endless. Manageability is a key factor in choosing a fabric. Heavy thickness or stiffness adds to difficulty cutting, sewing and dressing the doll and would probably be unsuitable in a finished garment. There are lightweight versions of many fabrics that are easier to use. In addition, thick or stiff materials do not lay well, resulting in bulky seams and an awkward fit. Following is only a light touch on a few specialty fabrics to present some of the questions and considerations which may be applied to other types. Consult other sources for a thorough treatment of all types of fabrics.

I love the lamés but because they contain metallic threads, they snag or fray easily and quickly dull needles. They also pin-mark, so use the "template" method of cutting out pattern pieces. Seam sealant seeps across the fabric so use carefully. A wider seam allowance treated with sealant can be trimmed closer after it dries.

Knits and wovens can be loose or tight. Will they need to be lined? Very loose knits or weaves may not be suitable. Stretchiness can affect pinning, cutting and sewing. I like to line to hold shape.

Velvet, velveteen and velours are beautiful. Real velvet is so luxurious, but ravels terribly. Treat edges with a seam sealant before sewing. Most velveteens and velours do not ravel, making them easier to use. Velvet is also very thick and may affect the finished look. Sewing velvet can be tricky because of the nap, therefore a walking foot is recommended.

Ultrasuede® is a wonderful substitute for real suede. This manmade fiber is washable, dry-cleanable, won't ravel or stretch, can be sewn, glued and fringed. It is fairly expensive, but adds the perfect touch of luxury to doll fashions and accessories. Check out www.ultrascraps.com as a source of tips and scraps.

Satins are also available in several blends. Some wrinkle badly, ravel, pin-mark and water spot. My favorite is crepe satin which handles beautifully.

Some fabrics have a nap, which means there is a direction to the weave. Velvet and corduroy are just two examples which easily demonstrate this. You can feel the smoothness when you run your hand over the fabric in one direction (with the nap) and roughness against the nap. Generally nap should run from top to the bottom of a garment. When naps running in the opposite direction are placed side by side (or sewn!), the difference is obvious and can detract from the outfit. We'll cover more on naps in the next installment on pattern layout. Besides the woven nap, some pattern designs are also directional. Keep in mind that additional yardage is needed when using directional fabrics.

Scale

When selecting a fabric with a pattern design, consider the scale in relation to the doll. As a general rule-of-thumb, small prints, stripes, plaids or checks are most suitable for smaller dolls, while larger dolls can support larger designs. Think of the patterns you select for yourself and imagine them "shrunk" down to doll size. Stripes and checks ⅛" or smaller work well. But rules were made to be broken and sometimes it works. For instance a large red check fabric was used for a dress and matching double-breasted jacket for Barbie (Japanese market, 1967). The large check actually adds to the uniqueness of the outfit, also probably because it's the only one like it. If the large check were to appear in several outfits, it would lose this uniqueness and the scale would detract.

Some questions to ask when selecting fabric with a design, whether a print, plaid or stripe: Depending on the outfit, how will the fabric lay across the various style segments? How will the seams look? Will it work on diagonals?

A trick I use to "picture" the scale of a fabric is to imagine a doll's hand over the pattern, then "enlarge" the image as if it were my hand, asking myself if this were for me, would it work? For instance, a flower the size of your head may be too large! Also keep in mind that mod era fashions did use larger scale, so the type of outfit also influences your choice.

The ideas above can also applied to trims, which should also be in scale and easy to handle.

These suggestions aren't meant to discourage creativity but are merely guidelines. If you find something you think might work, experiment! You might be surprised. On the other hand, be prepared to be selective in your choices, keeping the scale and fabric type in mind. Finding just the right piece of material is often a treasure hunt. I usually carry a small scrap with me if I'm looking for a particular color or pattern to match.

Fabric Preparation

Generally, fabrics should be pre-treated before cutting them out. For "people" clothes this is probably good advice. Sometimes referred to as "pre-shrinking," washing and drying the fabric reduces the amount of shrinkage for the completed garment. This process also removes sizing which has been applied to add stiffness to the finish. Other chemicals may also be present that are desirable to remove. Dry-cleanable fabrics are usually sent to the cleaners to be steamed.

For small doll fashions, it is not always necessary to pre-wash, even when shrinkage would normally be a drawback. Many fashions are made for display and will not need to be pre-shrunk. (If made for a child to play with, however, pre-washing may be desirable.) The sizing and resins in new fabrics may enhance a crisp finished look. When removed in washing, some experts advise using a light spray starch to restore body to the fabric before cutting and sewing. This is especially true in quilting.) As for the other chemicals that may be present, just let you nose be the judge. However, another reason to pre-wash is that some of these added treatments can cause skipped stitches when sewing. If you've experienced skipped stitches on some fabrics and not others, most likely it's the resins and not your machine.

Another reason to pre-wash is to remove excess dye which could rub off on the doll's skin. A quilter's technique to "set" the dye is to soak the fabric is a solution of vinegar and water (about 1 cup per gallon), then pre-wash, checking the water to see if it washes clear, dry and press. It is not always possible to determine ahead of time whether a dye will rub off or not. First, when purchasing the fabric, check the information on the bolt for any special instructions. This could be a clue whether you want to bother with it or not. Some fabrics may wash well in the machine (use a short, gentle cycle), others may need to be hand-washed. Dry by machine on gentle, or lay on a towel or hang on a hanger to dry. A light press (with the spray starch option) completes the preparation.

Pre-treating "dry-cleanable" fabrics can also be done at home with a steam iron. Simply steam from 1/2" above the surface of the material. A trick I use is to cover the fabric with a damp cloth, then lightly run the iron over the surface (not pressing) a couple times, then remove the cloth. Whichever method used, let fabric cool and dry thoroughly before handling.

Sources

Some good reference books may be helpful in learning more about fabrics. Check your local library to see for yourself before you decide to buy a book.

Fabric Savy: The Essential Guide for Every Sewer by Sandra Betzina, 1999. The Taunton Press, PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506 e-mail: tp@taunton.com [covers 85 types of new and old favorite fabrics] [Sandra has a number of others books as well]

Nancy Zieman has several good books.
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