I saw an older article
once about how to remove the Emission control tubing on my '99 Valk. My
friend has a VTX and he says that removing the emission lines will stop
the 'popping' from installing
Your problem is rare but not unheard of. Somehow you have gotten an air bubble in the brake fluid.
I would advise a change of fluid anyway so it ain't no big deal. Go to the auto parts store and get some dot 3/4 synthetic brake fluid. Open the top of the brake reservoir and the bleed ports on the brake calipers (the ones with the little rubber caps). Keep the reservoir full and with the lever, pump nice clean fluid into both sides of the system purging out all the old fluid.
Put a little clear hose on each bleed screw so you can see the nice new fluid and not make such a big mess. After that close the bleed ports and pump the lever until you start feeling some pressure, hold that pressure and, one side at a time, loosen the bleed port screw and watch the fluid come out. Close the bleed port screw each time before you release pressure on the brake lever.
Pump pressure, hold , bleed and do it again. When you have done this enough times and see no more air bubbles do the other side the same way.
Always keep the brake reservoir full of fluid and try not to get brake fluid on the paint. This is easy and I'll bet its fixed.
Oh, When you are really good at bleeding you can do the back brake and clutch too.
"If what I say now keeps only one person from fitting an automobile tire to their Valk, I'll say it. Car tires have no place on motorcycles!"
Man you would have thought I'd just insulted someone's mother. I was almost shouted off the stage by guys who had done this and had not had any problems. I really did not know what to think.
After the meeting was over I was approached by many people in private who told me horror stories about what a car tire had done to them. They said it was just a mater of time until riding on a car tire went bad. Everyone said the same thing in different ways, that the handling was unpredictable and wet weather riding should not be done at all. What I found most interesting was that all agreed with the boys who shouted me off the stage. They were convinced that car tires were cool and safe. When then they found out they were wrong, well they don't like to talk about it.
Metz makes a real motorcycle tire called a ME 880 XXL in size 240/50 VR-16. Now I call that a big motorcycle tire. Jim
I have not done this swap but do know that it is a very popular idea so I'm sure its almost a bolt on. Your biggest problem will be finding a Interstate tank. At a customers request I looked into the cost of a new one, as used ones are unheard of, and sold for (sit down) $700.00.
Actually, Brian your radio is broken yes, but not where you suspect. The off/on is not suppose to work either. It should not be able to be turned off. This was a Honda antitheft option available only on the 99 I.S. on only 2 bikes. Honda tried this idea by leaving a new I.S. in East LA with the key in it and after 1 month it was still there. It was eventually torched so you have the only one left, a valuable collectors bike!
Get the radio to a radio man and get it fixed and what's wrong with oldies anyway? That Bobbie Goldsboro song about the tree, now that's music...
I don't remember which color is which but if you pull off the top chrome piece that fits between the turn signals you will see the wires and which way they go and what color they are. The trick with this change is that you must fit a 1157 type bulb socket in place of the 1156 that is in there now and then use 1157 type bulbs. You can tap off the license plate light for the running lights and hook up the other wires just the way they are for the signals.
I like this idea and am thinking about doing it too. Jim.
Yep, The symptoms that you describe are classic for a burnt out bulb.
I'm sure that the first thing you did was change the bulbs. If you are saying that both pins in the front right socket show ground then maybe you have a bad socket. I will tell you now one of the best kept Valkyrie secrets and you must not tell anyone. This light socket actually comes out so you can test it or see if its broken or melted. Gently push the complete socket assembly in (the plastic cup and bulb socket are one piece) and turn it about 10 degrees counterclockwise and out it comes for your inspection.
I'd get a big rubber mallet and hit the brake calipers from the bottom, the way they would move if you hit a bump. If you hear this noise then look inside the caliper (got to take it off) and see if the retaining clip type spring is either broken or has fallen out. There is a clip up inside the middle of the caliper that puts a little pressure on the brake pads to keep them from rattling.
It could also be the rubber bushings that insulate the caliper from the mounting pins, but that problem is rare. All the best and I hope this helps.
All parts for all Valks are the same except some seat differences and accessories used on Interstates and the Interstate has a larger gas tank but they will all fit. Inspect carefully for any damage to the wheels, front end and frame and good luck. Jim.
This is what I would do.
Pull off both sides of the covers over the tops of the carbs (those chrome rails, 3 Philips screws) and make sure that when you are choking that the slider slides and that it pulls out all 6 of the enriching needles.
Also, and this may be your problem, make sure when the choke is off all the needles are closed. As soon as you operate the choke you will see how this operates.
The gas smell you have noticed is most likely not related. Some Valks have this gas smell problem as does mine but it does not effect starting unless you actually have a leak that you can see. Very low mileage could have gummed up the carbs and if a good shot of carb cleaner doesn't help, the only thing you can do is have them cleaned.
I have found a number of Valks that need the pilot screws adjusted. These are the screws that are under the carb on the engine side that you must look straight up to see. You need a pilot screw adjusting tool to do this but I have found many that are in very different states of adjustment. Have your mech close each screw and then open each one to 3 turns. Should take him about 3 minutes and you will be surprised at the result. Hope this helps.
Not hard, provided excessive is not excessive. Hopefully you can take this excess up at the adjuster on the throttle cable at the throttle control on the handlebar (the little chrome barrel on the cable right by your hand). Just loosen the small nut and turn the barrel of the adjuster to make it longer which will help. This might be called the fine adjustment.
If you do not get enough adjustment you can find, but not get to, the course adjustment which is located between the 1st and 2nd carbs on the right side of the bike. There are two barrels with lock nuts and, of course, you need the bottom one. It's a "tank off so you can get at it" job. Do not take up all the free play. Leave about 1/8th of an inch, that way you can be sure that the throttle is closed all the way. Jim.
I'm assuming you have the ultimate cruiser, the Valkyrie, and that you are asking about the 1800 Gold Wing tires.
The front tire of an 1800 is an 18 so don't use it. The back tire is a 180/60HR-16 and Valks are a 180/70HR-16 and you are correct that it is a bit lower in profile. But the real definition of this number is the ratio between the tire section height and the nominal width. What does this mean? Who knows? ( I got it out of a book.) This tire looks small on a Gold Wing just the same as a bus tire looks small on a bus. But I'll bet that if you go to the bike shop and put the two together you will not see much difference. I don't think you will notice any difference if you mount one on your Valk.
This is a tough one as so many different things could be your trouble.
You did not say whether the bike has been sitting for some time but if it has, then a good carb cleanup will sure help. It could also be something as simple as needing a clean air filter. I would imagine that the fuel smell is strong if you have a puddle of fuel under the bike but at least you could look around and see where its coming from and repair that problem.
Many times I've pulled the tank off Valks and found the fuel shut off valve loose at the tank. A little fuel smell seems to be common on earlier Valks and I attribute it to poorly fitting fuel fill caps. All bikes with gravity feed fuel systems should have the fuel turned off when not running.
You are correct that a leaking needle valve could fill the cylinder up with fuel if the shut off valve is on but this is a real disaster and I do not think it is happening to you. And finally, I never agree with dealerships about anything...
Find a good metric bike shop and get it looked at.
You know what opinions are like and we all have one but in this case you are right on. Valkyrie's have a poor headlight. We all seem to think, and me included, that high tech can do just about anything but in the case of our headlights it just ain't so. I've not had personal experience with the plasma bulb you refer to but it could only help, but it must be the 55w/60w as the Valk headlight electrical system will not handle the larger wattage bulbs. You've noticed I'm sure, that the headlight goes off when you start the bike. This happens because of the little switch incorporated into the starter switch that turns off the headlight. This switch is just able to do this without problems with the stock wattage bulb. The best fix for this problem is a spot light kit. Add this extra lighting and you just won't believe what you've been missing.
Although I'm not familiar with this unit I did go to their web site and took a look and I must say it is a lovely thing.
Since the invention of the CNC machine it sure is great what people have made. The manifold is a real work of art. As to whether or not it would be an improvement to install it on a Valk is another question. Essentially fuel injection and carburetors do the same thing, only differently. In a fuel injection system the computer takes the place of most of the balls, springs, jets and metering rods in the carbs. This computer, with the aide of a throttle position sensor, tells the injector when and how much fuel to supply the engine. Much simpler, fewer parts and usually a whole lot more reliable. I'm sure that carbs will be a thing of the past in the very near future.
New carbs though are a work of art in themselves. They have matured from the old style squirt guns like the old Linkert to very modern, very efficient, fuel metering devices. Our Valk carbs determine the amount of fuel needed for the engine by the amount of vacuum the engine is producing at a given RPM. It is old fashioned but it works good as evidenced by the way our Valks run, nice and smooth when everything is right. The problem with carbs is a little piece of dirt can mess up the whole thing and they are expensive and time consuming to repair. Also if you want to do any jet changes or mods of any kind it's not easy with six carburetors where as with a fuel injection system all you do is change the chip to change it's mind.
Simplicity is the word here and fuel injection has that in spades. Performance is pretty much the same for properly set up carbs and properly set up fuel injection but the proper set up is easy with fuel injection and that gives it all the advantages.
When this kit is available and installed, we can get the riders view point. This is the way to evaluate it and I'm sure it won't be cheap so I'm going to wait and see. Thanks for bring this set up to my attention. It's been fun.
Yes I do. And I'm thinking about pulling my tank off and having another look. I just love it in there.
Under the air cleaner on our Valks are functional velocity stacks and yes they work great. Those chrome things you see glued on the carb tops of some Valks are just for looks. There are no "add-on" velocity stack readily available.
I'm very impressed with these Horse Apple pipes. I've seen only one of their mods installed and it looked good and sounded good too, much like an exotic foreign car. With their mod you retain the advantages of the original dual wall header pipes which will keep them from bluing and it looks like you can adjust to the sound you want by modifying the baffle. I would like some for my "old #11 Rosebud. They say, as all custom pipe guys do, that you need no jetting changes. This may or may not be true depending upon what level of performance you are happy with. But small adjustments to the air/fuel mixture are relatively easy. And after spending the money for new pipes, a good tune up is cheap.
After looking at their web site I think that I would like to meet them. Other than myself I don't know anyone who still has the original Easy Rider sound track.
For a Valk that's running good sitting only one month, you should not change anything unless you left it out in the rain.
I would drain the carbs and make sure that the choke system is working correctly (see cold starting problem in "ask the mech"). Then I would put a nice fresh tank of gas in with a shot or two of carb cleaner and ride it. If that won't cure it you may have to give her a new set of plugs and a new air filter. Sometimes these older Valks are just like older mechanics.
It's not that they can't run its just that they don't want to.
A company called Heli-coil (http://www.helicoils.com/) or the equivalent, makes kits to take care of these problems and that's what you must use. When drilling and tapping, coat the bit and tap with grease to catch the metal shavings and keep it as clean as you can.
Not being a radio man I really don't know what the problem is but I suspect that your radio is working properly and that you have a speaker problem. Trace down all the wires going to the speakers and I'll bet you find a broken or loose one especially in the back of the radio.
If not, its a trip to Rap City and talk to the boy's with the ear rings and nose bolts. They are good for these problems..
This is easy. Our Valks have engines just like a car and any auto parts store will have all the adapters and gauges you want. Hook them up just like the instructions say. Mounting a nice set up and display will be your problem. There should be room inside the fairing someplace for a nice small gauge setup and it should look good.
For sure the correct way to do this is to remove the parts and have them polished. But for some of us with more time than money you can still do a pretty good job. The easiest places to clean up are the forward looking parts where the coating has dried up and begun flaking off. Carb cleaner or acetone will soften up this coating so you can get it off and then just polish with any good aluminum polish until it shines up nice. Each time you polish it it will look better. The places where the coating is still in good shape are harder to do as the coating is really tough but you can do it. The fork legs are a different matter. They have that lined surface and the only way to clean it up is remove them and have them polished. I'm told by my polisher that they can be done very easily. When I can afford this job we'll see..
We do not usually do answers on other than Valkyrie's but this question is of interest to all of us.
I had to go to "the man" for this answer as I always keep a few extra keys around so I have one when I lose one. Now I wonder where they are? This answer applies to almost all metric bikes.
The number that you are searching for will not help you. I'm told it is an identifying number but only to the factory where your bike was made and that the key info will not be available to you or anyone else. So removing the switch and finding the number will not help. The man says the only people that will have your key info is the shop that sold the bike new. If you can find them they are supposed to have this info on hand but, says the man, unfortunately some do not.
Rather than the hassle of trying to find this number he (the man) sends all his lost souls to a good locksmith who can make a new key.
Grinding noises are never normal but is that really what you have?
Many of us who have graduated to the ultimate cruiser have gone through this initial mystery of unusual noises. Most of us came here after riding other bikes that make so many usual noises that when we finally get a bike that is well engineered and quiet we hear things that we've never heard before. A brand new Valk is very quiet but it is normal to hear the gears going around, the timing belts whinning a little and things like that. But, for sure, not grinding. Find some other Valks and listen. And if your noise is not like theirs I'd take it back and document the dealers response in your owners manual. Time, date and name of the person who said everything is normal. That way you'll have a good reply when the pistons come flying out the sides.
Some questions come to mind, like how did you get home? That's all I will say about this as I'm sure you've taken you fair share of ribbing.
I'm answering this fast as
you need to get right on this. Drain the carbs. remove all 6 of the drain
plugs(the brass screws at the bottom of the float bowls that you look
right at when you look at the carbs) and drain all of the diesel out.
Leave them out and turn on the gas and rock the bike back and forth until
you get good clean fuel out of each carb. Maybe you should do this outside.
Plugs back in and start up. It should run, if not, pull the spark plugs and clean them up.
Other than your self esteem you should not have hurt anything.
Handlebars are available in almost any style, length or pull back you can imagine. It is a choice that you must make for yourself as we all have our comfort zone. Go to your bike shop and have your parts man show you the catalog and you'll find a pretty infinite assortment. If you choose a bar with a big change you must also consider the extra expense of longer cables and hoses. There are some nice risers made by Show Chrome that will bring your stock bar back a bit and I'm pretty sure that you can use the existing cables and hoses.
Try a kidney belt first. On long trips I would not ride without mine. Keeps me sitting up straight and comfortable. Nice leather belts are available at sports shops for weight lifters.
First and most important, DO NOT ride motorcycles with unusual handling problems, brake or steering problems, wheel and tire trouble or crunching/grinding noises.
If your Valk is handling squirrelly after a rear tire change you need to do this job all over again checking to see first if the tire is mounted correctly and the beads are seated, pressure is correct and if the arrow on the tire that directs rotation is correct. Upon reassembly make sure that the splines are lined up and the the axle nut is torqued to 81 lbs. ft. There really is no way you can misalign a rear tire on a shaft drive motorcycle, so something is not right.
If this doesn't resolve your problem, put it on a trailer and take her to your Honda mechanic.
You're not drinking enough beer.
They sure are tricky and it does not matter how many times you do this job you never remember how it is done but you know that you've done it before and "you can do it"! Get out a nice cold six pac and, if I remember correctly, your 1/4" drive sockets a universal and some extensions, lay down on a towel (a Puerto Villarta beach towel is best) and look up at your problem and start sucking them up. You'll get alot of good ideas and all will be fine.
Remember you do not have to remove these nuts just loosen them up all the way and remove the nuts on the muffler hanger so you can drop down the pipes enough for the tire removal. These nuts get hot and cold all the time and do get stuck on after a while. I always put anti-sieze on the threads and next time the job is a little easier (very little)...
Rattles and vibration sounds are just hard to find. Especially as you say, it won't do it in neutral and must be ridden for it to make the sound.
We do have a few questions in "Ask the Mechanic" that deal with some noises that are common with Valks but yours sounds to me like something loose on your bike. So this is what I'd do if it were in my shop.
Put the bike up on a lift with the wheels off the floor and do a complete detail of the bike. Start from the front and clean and check for tightness all bolts and nuts.
At suspect areas use a soft mallet and give the area a rap and see if you hear anything unusual. I have found the sheet metal around the exhausts can be loose or the covers touching and can make funny noises. Maybe even a loose baffle inside the muffler.
Rotate and check both wheels and pull the brake pads and inspect them for unusual wear or a rock or something not cool stuck in the pads.
I realize that I have not really answered your question but if you do what I say at least you'll have a nice clean bike. One last comment. I've ridden many Valks and they are all different so just the fact that it does not sound like your last one sounded don't mean nuttin'.
As for the oil I do not think that you hurt anything as you did not really seriously overheat. The coolant was still in the bike and doing its job. It just could have used some help from the fan.
Also don't call me a "dip stick". Jim.
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