The Jinordhar mountain system is made up of 6-7 big peaks and few smaller ones interconnected with narrow valleys between them. From the top of Jinordhar, 1278 feet above sea level, one can see vast virtually endless shrubbed plains in the west. The general scene that meets one's eyes is that of dull brown treeless plain scattered with shrubs and small trees here and there except in the east. In the east there is Fulai-Chhari wetland. The wetland is a breeding ground for the Common Cranes which number in thousands.

As we were nearing the bottom of the mountain system the slopes were drawing in closer and closer. When we reached the bottom the whole vegetation changed. There were many species of trees, all lush green, in stark contrast with the general dull brown scene described earlier. We could feel a marked temperature drop. The valley floor was approx. 25 feet wide. In the middle 5 feet of the floor, whitish stones indicated a (dried) waterway. There was freshness in the air. The scene was sacred, life-giving and photogenic. It were diffused sunlight and dapple shade that were giving this place a paradasical feeling. The place was nothing less than heaven. It was totally silent and little did I know that an adventure was in waiting.

As we went further,  the slopes were getting steeper aight in Kutch district. "A rishi baba (hermit) comes once a year to collect medicinal herbs from here", Bhupat, our local friend guide broke the silence. "From where?", I queried. "Mt Abu",  pat came a reply. Our conversation stopped.

After a 30 minutes walk, Harish spotted an Eagle perched on a small tree on our right. We all stopped as Harish watched the Eagle thro 7x50 binocs. I noticed that the mountain slope on my left had become quite vertical and the vegetation was a bit sparse. Harish climbed 10-12 feet to observe the raptor properly. Then it was my turn to see the raptor. (We were sharing binocs, poor students then!). We scanned our 'Pictorial Guide to the Birds of Indian subcontinent' to identify the raptor but failed.

"Harish, this raptor identification is damn difficult, chuck it", I said.
"You're right", Harish agreed. (Later we learnt that it was Bonelli's Eagle. The only cliff-nester in Kutch).

After few minutes the raptor flew ahead of our way and perched near a hilltop. Then another duller raptor, same size, well-camouflaged, followed the previous one.

"Second Eagle female lagta hai!" Harish doubted. (Second eagle looks like a female).
"To phir idhar nest ho sakta hai !!", I too doubted. (Then there can be a nest here).

Nest, a raptor's nest! Our eyes sparkled with a sense of adventure and fun. So first thing to do was to spot their nest. Harish scanned the area around their perch with the binocs and soon found one on a cliff, approx 350 ft high.

It was just matter of seconds of decision-making and we were on our way for the nest. The highway was steep and with loose stones 6-8 inches thick/long. Walking was difficult with Minolta 5000 with zoom lens on my back, I was almost crawling on all my fours. After gaining 200 feet I made a terrible mistake, I looked down, the point where we made our start. From then on, I was doubtful about my existence. The view gave me jolt and jitters. 

Adventure and adrenalin gave a quantum jump. Just a little slip and my adrenal glands would churn its juice! The view from 200-ft was hovering around my eyes. I should admit that I was quite scared. Harish was calm and Bhupat coolest, quite ahead of me.

By the time we climbed 300 ft the raptors had noticed us and distanced themselves. Harish was right, the second raptor was a female. They were mates. Their nest, now, was few feet high and on our right cliff. To see the nest clearly we would have to climb on steep slope on our left for about 40 ft. But the way was only 18 inches wide and the wall was quite steep, around 70 degrees (the wall on my right). I was very reluctant to cross it (the camera was not mine!) but did so on Harish's insistence, without any untoward incident! But alas, when we observed into the nest there were neither eggs nor chicks. The nest was being built. We hid ourselves behind a small tree to shoot the raptor. We were approx. 400 ft. above the valley floor, the nest just 50 ft below. I rested my right foot on a stone on edge of the trail. The edge gave way to a very steep slope and then to a vertical plunge. Harish rested the camera on my right shoulder and took 2 snaps of the raptor.
 

The fall picture. We started from pt A thru pt B and to the place where I clicked this foto. If I had a fall it would have straight down and then straight up to heaven.

Suddenly, where out of the blue moon, the stone could not stand the weight of a 47 kg. homo sapiens (me!) and gave its way partly. I lost my balance and bent to stabilize myself. I caught hold of a branch above with my right hand. As I had bent too much, my momentum took me forward and I found myself hanging in mid-air like a monkey. Straight down on the valley floor, I could see the place where we began our nest-hunt and a certain DEATH. THAT "same" momentum brought me back on THAT stone and status quo was maintained ! PHEW !! I grasped the branch with left hand and Harish caught my T-shirt, in case THAT stone had decided a "PART 2". After this 2 seconds of 'forced stunt', I looked at

Bhupat in front of me. He was aghast, mouth wide-opened. I somehow managed to give a winning-smile.

"Kya Chiragbhai, thhik hai na ?", Harish queried in a humourous tone. ("So Mr. Chirag, are you OK?")
"Ha dost, lag to raha hai !", I replied. ("Yes my friend, looks like"). This 'forced-stunt' still gives me a gooseflesh.

"So now, should we go up down?", Bhupat questioned.
"I don't think we should go down", I replied rather sheepishly.
"If we climb, we will reach the top and there is a way to go down. Better climb up", Bhupat informed.

We were between mythical Charybdis and Scylla. The remaining part of our sojourn atop saw us climbing (crawling for me) thro' thorns and 2 feet grass blades. At one stage we had to pass thro' a thorny shrub and a feet away, to the left, there was no slope, just a downward plunge. But fortunately we (I) passed thro that ordeal. On reaching the top we quenched our thirst and marched downwards for Thaan, a sacred place where a rishi baba had meditated. The declivity was pretty easy and with 'just' one untoward incident.

"Twixt Life and Death, there is an Eagle's Nest" my subconscious processed. And it took a fraction of a second to understand it. Quite some poem there!

We reached Thaan at 1 pm. It was a very peaceful place. The only sound I could hear was that of pigeons' flight. Here we spotted a Brown Rock Chat. After cleaning "Blood, Sweat and Tears", we ate, drank and left for Dhhoka-ji-veri, yet another religious place at 2 pm. It was a long arduous 2-hour journey. The Old Sol was scorching as if it was shining only for we mortals.

By the time we reached Dhhoka-ji-veri at around 4 pm, we were so thirsty that we were least hesitated to drink water that was infested with many juvenile frogs and aquatic flies. The water was clean and fresh, nevertheless. (The water showed that my immune system was good enough!) We rested for 15 mins and followed our friend-guide Bhupat to his village Chhalu. We reached there at 5:15 pm and drank tea. Far away, across the plains, I could see Isabgol plants swaying in gentle breeze. (Isabgol is cellulose, used as a natural laxative). After bidding goodbye to Bhupat, me and Harish caught a bus for Virani village, our base. Thus ended my most memorable and an adventurous episode of my life and I thank Bhupat for the good times we had.