EVALUATING SHIBAS FOR RESCUE
[Note: This information has been prepared
based upon the Sue Sternberg method and the
NERR&R evaluation; However neither are in No
Way responsible for my interpetation of their
information or the actual content of this web
site!! Thanks to both!!]
Step 1: Is it really a
shiba
Step 2: This dog's
health
Step 3:About temperament
evaluation
Step 4: Evaluation
form
Step 1: Is it REALLY a
Shiba?
If the dog has AKC, JKC or UKC registration
paperwork then- in general- it is safe to
assume that the dog is almost surely a Shiba
Inu.
Otherwise, follow the below guidelines when
looking at teenage or adult dogs (puppies are
a difficult call and unless they are "known"
Shibas they should be passed on or assume
that
they are a mix breed until they are at least
8 months of age)
Size - Measured at the top of the
shoulder where the neck connects to the back.
Alternatively "guesstimate" against the known
length of your leg from knee to ground.
Shibas are "normally" 10" minimum and 22"
maximum. Keeping in mind that the "average"
shiba is between 12" and 17"
Head - Typically has a foxy (or in
large specimans a coyoteish) look. It should
NOT remind you of anything other than a
Shiba,
Fox or coyote!
Eyes - Generally Oriental but CAN tend
towards round. Green or blue eyes are
generally indicative of mixed breeding.
(although cataracts and other eye diseases
can give eyes a blue or green or white or
clouded cast)
Ears - Prick ALWAYS. Medium to thick
looking and feeling. NOT thin like a German
Shepherd Dog. Generally lean/pitch forward a
bit. Can be either high set and close
together or lower set and far apart. But MUST
be firmly erect. Tipped, floppy or drop ears
are generally indicative of mixed
breeding.
Coat - ALWAYS has a "Northern dog"
look to it. IDEALLY standing off the body a
bit and is a double coat as well. Short and
flat like a Labrador Retriever or tight and
smooth like a Doberman are generally
indicative of mixed breeding. Note: long,
fluffy Samoyed like coats are a very rare
occurance and unless the dog is a "known"
Shiba , it is probably safe to assume that a
dog with this coat is a mix breed.
Tail - Is bushy and curls over back.
The curl ranges from the extreme tight triple
curl to a very loose 1/2 to 3/4 curl OR is a
"Sickle" or "Sashio" tail which is held up
and over body.
Keep in mind that fearful, shy or nervous
dogs may forcibly hold their tail down.
IDEALLY the tail comes to the hock when held
down, but variations are common.
Feet - Are fairly compact and are
proportionate to body size. They do not seem
large compared to the body.
Visual Colors - Can and do vary
greatly! Acknowledged colors are OFFICIALLY
known as Red, Sesame, Black & tan and Cream.
In visual appearance these colors appear in
shades of red, tan, fawn, peach (all with or
without greatly varying amounts of black
hairs mixed in and with or without a black
muzzle); black/tan/white (with the 3 colors
fairly distinctly separate); white (with or
without peach or red hairs mixed in). ALL of
these colors may have white toes; socks;
legs; bellys; bibs; tail tips; collars and
facial stripes. The MAJORITY of Shibas have
"urajiro" which is white markings on the
sides of the face; chest; stomachs; and
underside of the tail. "Urajiro" is required
for showing.
Solid black dogs without tan; blue; blue
merle; red merle; silver; grey; brindle; or
Dalmation spotted are all colors generally
indicative of mixed breeding.
A lack of required white markings "urajiro"
IS to be viewed with suspicion, BUT should
not by itself be a deciding factor against
being purebred as some well bred Shibas
occasionally fail to have proper
"urajiro"
Temperament- Shibas can be very
stand-offish to people they do not know. They
can be very independant. They can also be
friendly and outgoing to everyone! You will
also run into the occasional shy dog . Many
(but certainly not all) are also dog
aggressive or dangerous to cats and small
animals When evaluating a shiba do not be
put
off by any of the above traits as they are
all perfectly normal! Not normal would be a
people nasty dog or a dog that
urinates/defecates in
extreme fear . Shibas are a VERY unique
breed and really CANNOT be compared to the
average dog!
Step 2: This dog's
health
Does this dog have any health concerns that
may effect placement or incur great treatment
costs? (examples: blindness,luxated patellas;
contagious skin problem, etc...)
EACH rescue group or individual SHOULD plan
on paying out the costs of microchipping or
tattooing; vaccinations; heartworm tests;
heartworm preventative; worming and altering.
BUT other health issues must be decided on a
case by case basis. An exceptional dog might
be "worth" paying out patella repair surgery
for, but a child nasty dog would not
generally be accepted if it needed the same
opertion.
EACH group or individual MUST decide for
themselves what they can and will spend to
save ill or injured animals (and hold these
animals until a suitable home comes along)
and make their own policies to cover these
situations!
Step 3: Temperament
Evaluation
Rescue work is tough and can be
heartbreaking! Lesson #1 is that you simply
cannot save every dog of your breed. Some
dogs (unfortunatly) will have to be
sacrificed in order to keep rescue groups or
individuals financially stable and volnteers
sane. Taking in more dogs than the group or
individual can afford or handle will just
hurt the homeless dogs more in the long run
because the group or individual will
eventually simply have to quit due to lack of
funds or volunteers will burn out.
By THOROUGHLY evaluating EACH dog before
accepting it into your rescue program AND
reccomending euthanasia for those dogs that
HONESTLY cannot be safely placed or that
cannot be made healthy with the available
funds, you will be both saving the stable and
placeable dogs and sparing the remaining dogs
from stress, pain, tragedy, cruelty,
lonliness and abandonment.
Take your time when evaluating dogs
and do not skip any questions (unless
unavoidable or you do not feel safe
performing them)
NOTICE!!!
Temperament testing strange dogs DOES involve
some risks and evaluations should only be
performed by knowlegeable dog people! By
performing these evaluations the rescue group
or individual does so at their own risk and
fully assumes, both for itself and for any
employees, volunteers or individuals
conducting the testing any and all liability
stemming from the testing including without
limitation any property damage or personal
injury. By conducting the testing the rescue
group, individuals, employees and/or
volunteers conductng the testing further
acknowledge and agree that they will release
and forever discharge Diane Richardson and
associates from any and all claims, demands
or causes of action for any accidents,
property damage or personal injury (including
death) arising in any way from the
testing.
Definitions
* - 1 star- keep an eye on this dog
**- 2 stars- proceed with caution, make no
excuses for this dog!
*** - 3 stars- Reccomend testing NO further,
put dog carefully back into it's
kennel.
ANY dog that gets 3*** stars on any test
should be failed!
Dogs with several 2** stars should be
fostered for a minimum of 30 days and
retested. IF no change then careful
consideration must be given as to whether or
not this dog should be adopted out
Dogs with several 1* stars should only be
placed into experienced homes ater at least
14 days and preferably 30 days in a foster
home.
When to test
Ideally the dog should have been at
the shelter a minimum of 3 days if at all
possible.
Where to test
Ideally a distraction free indoor room
is best, BUT a low activity outdoor area can
work AND some of the tests DO lend hemselves
to being done outdoors.
Supplies
A sturdy 6' leash of leather or cotton
web.
A nylon choke collar
a 3' dowel (1" in diameter) with a stuffed
glove attached firmly to one end
a stuffed animal on a rope or leash at least
6' in length
a helper adult
a calm, well behaved dog
and a dogwise child able to listen to
direction that is less then 12 years old
IF all of the above is not available, make
do the safest and best way
possible
Getting ready
Tester should have had little, if any prior
contact with the dog. When removing the dog
from the kennel be as neutral as possible.
Maintain constant but gentle tension on the
leash BUT attempt NO leash corretions at this
time (pops, jerks or tugs)
For Step #4 evaluation form
click here
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information on this website is copyright Dec
1999,Jan 2000, August 2003 Diane Richardson. Permission
granted for reuse ONLY in it's entirety and
ONLY as described on the main page of this
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