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POUCHES – ELABORATE or SIMPLE

FYNE & UNUSUAL POUCHES
Are Myne
REN-STUFF CLAIM-TO-FAME!

Over the years, I’ve determined a size and shape of pouch that seems to be the best for FUNCTION
(will hold a LOT o’ stuff, without being UNWIELDY), and is also very attractive.

Even the “plain” pouches I make garner a LOT o’ Complements!

Now, YOU TOO, will be able to make
“Ms CHAS Pouches”!!!

	SIMPLE STUFF FIRST
	PLAIN POUCHES	(To do a “Beggar” or “Gnarly Peasant” pouch – like the one @ left – Put PATCHES o’ other fabric on the pouch body before you sew it.)

(Cut Pouch Body)

CUT POUCH Body:
24” wide x 15-16” tall.

“FINISH” TOP EDGE: by ZIG-ZAG sewing it – unless selvedge edge can be used.

Fold Fabric, Right Sides Together, & Sew SIDE Seam (Top to Bottom)
“FINISH” seam edges,
zig-zagging them together.
This seam will become the
CENTER BACK of pouch.

(Sew Center Back Seam)

PRESS (Iron) to mark CENTER FRONT on opposite side of center-back-seam.

Open body up and align (Right Sides Together) center-back-seam with center-front-mark.
SEW BOTTOM Seam … “FINISH” bottom edge.

MARK TOP CASING by turning Top Edge over (WRONG Sides Together!) 1 ½”.
and PRESSING at several points. (Don’t “lose” center front mark.)

Install TWO LARGE EYELETS
inside the “casing” area, side-by-side,
on either side of the
CENTER FRONT mark.

(“Small” eyelets are TERRIBLE eyelets –
don’t buy or use them, EVAH!)

(To learn more about EYELETS,
go to my BELT-BODICE page!)

(Eyelets Centered Side-by-Side)

SEW Top of CASING all the way around, ½” from the top.
(“Fudge” as needed to avoid running needle into eyelets.)

SEAL CORD ENDS
BEFORE you CUT them!

I don’t like using “Fray-Nix” kinds o’ goop to “seal” Draw String or Cord ends, and prevent them from fraying. (They’re messy, and I don’t trust them to last.)
Instead, I take electrical tape and tightly-wind it around the point that I’m going to cut … then I cut through the mid-point of the wound-tape.

OR (for larger-diameter cord), I tightly-wind 2 pieces of electrical tape around either side of the point where I’m going to cut.

CUT Draw String: 30” long.

FEED each Draw String end through an eyelet of the POUCH CASING – FROM THE INSIDE-OUT!

FEED each Draw String end through a “CORD-STOP” (capturing both ends, fed from the same direction), and slide the cord-stop close to very end of string-ends.

CORD-STOPS! are“Pinchy” things that you use to “STOP” Cords at the point
where you want them to STOP – either with the cord-loop “closed” or “open”!

Pull center/inside end of Draw String back into the Pouch,
and tuck it up into casing at the Center BACK seam.
Pin the Tucked Draw String up into casing, all the way around.
SEW BOTTOM of Casing all the way around (presser-foot-width away from bottom casing edge)
WITHOUT sewing over any of the draw string.

To prevent Draw String Ends from “escaping” back through the Cord Stop, knot the ends (beyond the Cord-Stop).

OR, pull the ends through BELLS, and then knot them if you like!

Click Below,
if you want to make
POUCH
FLAPS

Otherwise,
Continue Here!

For BELT
POUCHES

You’ll need to make a
BELT CASING
to pass the belt through.

Cut a piece of fabric 4” x 3 ¾” … Finish edges …
Turn over edges ½” (WRONG sides together) …
Sew Edges All the way around.

Turn Pouch INSIDE OUT.

Sew the Top & Bottom of the Belt Casing
(the “longest” edges) to the CENTER BACK
part of the pouch, just below the Draw String Casing.
(You can “catch” the bottom part of the casing,
as long as you DON’T sew over
any part of the Draw String.)

OR, attach the BELT CASING
just below where you attached the FLAP.

For
CORD-SLUNG
POUCHES

You DON’T need to make a CASING!

Cut at least a 65” length of cord
(after “sealing” the ends).
I prefer cord that’s about 1/3” in diameter
(measured when squished flat).

By cutting it 65” long, and attaching
the CENTER of the cord to the pouch,
wearers have the OPTION of tying it
around their waste (my preference),
or knotting the ends and wearing it
slung over their shoulder.

Sew the CENTER of the Cord to the
CENTER BACK part of the pouch,
just below the Draw String Casing.
(You can “catch” the bottom part of
the casing, as long as you DON’T
sew over any part of the Draw String.)

OR, attach the Cord just below where
you attached the Flap. (I’ve found it best
to have the cord attached a “shorter”
distance than the flap.)

THAT’S IT, FOLKZ!!!

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If you have suggestions for Mistress CHAS’ RENAISSANCE WEB SITE,
Plz Email the “WebMistress” – Ms. Chas!

c-d-miller@neb.rr.com
That’s: c-d-miller@neb.rr.com –
those are hyphens/dashes (-)
between the “c” and “d” and “miller”

This COUNTER was started in June, 2001.