MISTRESS CHAS’ DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING CUSHIONED TUB STOOLS

Back in 2003, I surpriZed the krappe out of myself when I came up with the AMAZINGLY FANTABULOUS IDEA of creating TUB STOOLS to serve as REN FEST FURNITURE – using the many empty 25-Pound KAT LITTER TUBS I had collected over the years. (Hello! FOUR KATZ!)

Since then, many folkz have copiously complemented my Tub Stool creations, and
expressed a sincere interest in MAKING THEIR OWN TUB STOOLS.

THUS, in May of 2008, as I am about to RE-MAKE the EIGHT TUB STOOL COVERS
I need for my Unofficial Nebraska Wenches’ LUST MUSTER POYNTE,
I decided to create and post these DIRECTIONS!

On this WEB PAGE, are Directions with LOADZ of Explanations, Pix and Tipz.
AT ITS END, you’ll find a LINK to a FILE (PDF) containing JUST the
INSTRUCTIONS for you to PRINT and Work From!

STUFF YOU’LL NEED FOR MAKING
CUSHIONED TUB STOOLS!

Any ITEM DESCRIPTIONS and PRICES quoted on this page
were obtained in May of 2008 – mostly from the website of Jo-Ann Fabrics & Crafts.
But, they ought to reasonably represent common prices at ANY Fabric Store!

FIRST:
You’re going to need some kind of CHAIR-Worthy, strong, plastic TUB for each Tub Stool.
Obviously, TUBS other than KAT LITTER TUBS could be used!
But, I can only provide you directions for making Tub Stool Covers based upon the dimensions
of the 25-Pound Kat Litter Tubs I use for MY Tub Stools.
Whatever KIND (or SIZE) of TUB you use;
YOU’LL NEED ONE TUB per TUB STOOL.

25-Pound KAT LITTER TUB DIMENSIONS: The “common” dimensions of a Bulk Kat Litter Tub (such as the 25-Pound tubs found at SAM’S CLUB WAREHOUSE and similar bulk stores) ARE: 15" tall 8.5" x 8.5" at the bottom 10" x 10" at the top (opening)

To Become a TUB STOOL, Each Bulk Kat Litter Tub is INVERTED: It STILL is 15" tall But, now the tub’s OPENING is the bottom (BASE) = 10" x 10" And, the SEAT area is 8.5" x 8.5"

WHATEVER KIND OF TUB YOU USE:
Remove the Wire (or Plastic) HANDLE from each Tub Stool TUB.

ONE 12'' x 12'' PILLOW FORM for each TUB STOOL:
It really doesn’t matter what brand you buy, as long as the Pillow Form is 12'' x 12''
The average “Regular Price” per 12'' x 12'' Pillow Form is about $6.49

ONE ROLL of BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE (that’s enough for ALL Tub Stools!)

ONE LARGE SAFETY PIN per Tub Stool Cover’s Drawstring.

5 Feet of DRAWSTRING CORD for each TUB STOOL: It really doesn’t matter what brand of drawstring cord you buy! This particular brand, “Cotton Filler 6/32'' Cord” has a Regular Price of $3.99 per 10 Yard package. Since you’ll need 5 feet of cord for each Tub Stool Cover, one 10 yard (30 foot) package will be fyne for SIX Tub Stools! (Yes! Cotton cord will SHRINK when washed. But, using 5 feet of cord per Tub Stool allows you up to SIX INCHES of shrinkage. So, that’s NOT a problem.)

In 2003, when I made my original Tub Stool Covers, I Zig-Zag-sewed
along the CUT ENDS of the fabric pieces before assembling the covers.
But, with the very FIRST washing, I began to suffer small SEAM BLOW-OUTS!!!

Six washings later (2008), there now are SO MANY BLOWOUTS, that it will take more werk to REPAIR THEM than to make 8 NEW Tub Stool Covers!

So, for the LAST batch of Tub Stool Covers I’ll ever have to make,
I’m going to SEAL ALL SEAMS involving CUT-ENDS of fabric with
Double Fold Quilt Binding!

Wrights Double Fold Bias Quilt Binding 7/8" If YOU use Double Fold Quilt Binding from the get-go, you’ll NEVER have to REMAKE your Tub Stool Covers! (Be sure you get the 7/8" wide Binding.) When using 48" Wide fabric, you’ll need 8 feet of Quilt Binding per Tub Stool.

“Many Colors!” 3 Yards (per package) Regular Price: $2.65 (per 3 Yard package)

So, you need One 3-Yard PACKAGE of 7/8"-wide
Double Fold Quilt Binding PER TUB STOOL.
(If you buy fabric wider than 48", you’ll need MORE SEAM BINDING!)

THREAD:
I have no idea how many yards of thread is needed per Tub Stool Cover!
For less than 4 Tub Stool Covers, get ONE spool of STRONG THICK THREAD.
For more than 4 Tub Stool Covers, get TWO spools of STRONG, THICK THREAD,
and see what happens! LOL

The “STRONG, THICK THREAD” I’m referring to is stuff like:

Dual Duty

Coats & Clark DUAL DUTY EXTRA STRONG THREAD 75 yds (per spool) Regular Price: $1.49 OR Coats & Clark UPHOLSTERY THREAD 150 yds (per spool) Regular Price: $2.00

Upholstery

DUAL DUTY and UPHOLSTERY Thread can be used in a Sewing Machine
and comes in Many Colors:

TUB STOOL FABRIC!

I Prefer the Appearance and Texture of BURLAP FABRIC for my REN TUB STOOLS!
Often, only the darker and lighter “Natural” Burlap colors are available.
But, some fabric stores have DYED Burlap = black, blues, greens, purples, reds and the like!

Most Burlap comes in bolts of 48" wide fabric – a perfect width for making Tub Stool Covers for 25-Pound Kat Litter Tubz! “Handwash separately, no bleach, line dry.” Hello! Zig-Zag-sew along the CUT ENDS of your newly purchased Burlap to keep them from unraveling. Then, Machine Wash (cold) and Machine Dry (hot) your Burlap BEFORE cutting and sewing. Voilà! Machine Washable (and Dryable) Burlap Tub Stool Covers!

“Made in USA. Assorted colors Content: 100% jute” Regular Price: $2.99 per yard”

If you don’t want to use BURLAP, at least be sure to use some kind of STRONG
but NOT-TO-STIFF fabric – like “DUCK CLOTH!”

DUCK CLOTH FABRIC: “Tightly woven, heavier weight for durability and strength.” “Made in USA. Can be painted.” [That might be fun!] “Assorted colors”“CONTENT: 100% cotton” Regular Price: $6.99 per yard Duck Cloth usually comes in bolts of “59" wide” fabric. NOTE!: You’ll have to do your OWN FIGURING of fabric amount (and cutting layout) if you buy fabric wider than 48"!

Supposedly, Duck Cloth is “Dryclean only”FIE ON THAT!

HOW TO FIGURE THE AMOUNT OF FABRIC TO BUY

EACH Tub Stool Cover’s SEAT piece needs to start out
(be CUT) as a 12" x 12" SQUARE.

Yes. Even after sewing, this SEAT PIECE will be wider than the inverted Litter Tub’s SEAT dimensions – and it’s the SAME dimensions as the Tub Stool’s cushion before sewing. But, these dimensions create a SEAT PIECE and CUSHION that will OVERLAP the SEAT AREA edges of the Litter Tub. Thus the SEAT CUSHION will STAY PUT on TOP of the TUB STOOL when it’s assembled correctly, and its cover is TIGHTLY DRAWN beneath its opening. (Trust me. Cushion shifting will be a painful problem if you don’t use these dimensions!)

Each Tub Stool Cover BODY PIECE needs to be CUT 48" WIDE.
Isn’t it HANDY that Burlap fabric usually comes in 48" wide bolts?!
That makes the cutting layout easier,
AND allows you TWO SEALED SELVEDGE EDGES
(edges that do NOT require seam binding) per Tub Stool!

Each Tub Stool Cover BODY PIECE needs to be CUT 20" TALL.
Since creating a CASING for the draw string requires folding over at least 2" of fabric;
AND the cushion is going to add extra HEIGHT to the tub;
the BODY piece for each 15" tall Tub Stool Cover needs to be AT LEAST 20" TALL.

When Purchasing Fabric (Such As BURLAP) that is 48" WIDE,
Here’s the amount of FABRIC YOU NEED TO BUY:

• For 2 Tub Stools, Buy 1 and 2/3 yards of fabric
• For 4 Tub Stools, Buy 2 and 2/3 yards of fabric
• For 8 Tub Stools, Buy 5 and 1/3 yards of fabric

CUTTING LAYOUT EXAMPLES for PRESHRUNK 48" WIDE FABRIC:

TWO TUB STOOLS:
Below is an ALMOST-“SCALE” diagram representing 1 & 2/3 yards of 48" wide fabric
that has been pre-washed and has SHRUNK DOWN to about 1 & 1/2 yards.

1. Start by Cutting a STRAIGHT EDGE at ONE SIDE OF YOUR FABRIC (shown at the LEFT in the diagram above), cutting through only ONE THICKNESS, carefully cutting along the BURLAP GRAIN LINE across all 48" of fabric width.

2. TUB STOOL BODY #1: Measure 20" from your Straight Edge, and cut through only ONE THICKNESS, carefully following the BURLAP GRAIN LINE, ALL the way across the 48" fabric width.

3. TUB STOOL BODY #2: Measure 20" from the new Straight Edge, and cut through only ONE THICKNESS, carefully following the BURLAP GRAIN LINE, ALL the way across the 48" fabric width.

4. TUB STOOL SEAT PIECES:
   Measure 12" from the last Straight Edge, and cut through only ONE THICKNESS, carefully following the BURLAP GRAIN LINE, ALL the way across the 48" fabric width.

   Cut TWO 12" x 12" SQUARES from that 12" wide and 48" long strip of fabric, to create Two Tub Stool’s SEAT PIECES. (Up to FOUR 12" x 12" Square SEAT PIECES can be cut from this amount of fabric!)

FOUR TUB STOOLS:

Follow the SAME DIRECTIONS as for the TWO TUB STOOL cutting directions –
But cut FOUR TUB STOOL BODIES before cutting FOUR Tub Stool SEAT PIECES.

STEP ONE; CENTRAL TUB STOOL BODY SEAM:

Pin the SELVEDGE EDGES of a 48" wide Tub Stool BODY together. Most Burlap doesn’t have a “wrong” and “right” side. But, if the fabric you’re using DOES, pin its RIGHT SIDES together. Sew a SEAM 1/2" from the SELVEDGE EDGES.

Since these are both SELVEDGE edges, you’ll NOT need to cover this seam’s edges with Double Fold Quilt Binding But! It is wise to REINFORCE this seam by PRESSing (IRONing) the seam OPEN. Then ZIG-ZAG-Sewing OVER the central seam area.

STEP TWO; ATTACH THE SEAT PIECE:

With RIGHT SIDES together(!), pin the Tub Stool BODY to the Tub Stool SEAT PIECE. Sew a seam 1/2" from the edge, along ALL FOUR sides of the Seat Piece. “SANDWICH” these seams between Double Fold Quilt Binding. Sew a straight line along the binding, JUST INSIDE its seam-side edge. Then ZIG-ZAG-Sew ON TOP OF the Double Fold Quilt Binding NEXT to the seam edge. [Can we say, “Will NEVER UNRAVEL”??? I think we CAN!]

STEP THREE; CREATE THE DRAWSTRING CASING:

“SANDWICH” the Tub Stool Body’s BOTTOM EDGE between Double Fold Quilt Binding.
[I’m sorry! Since I haven’t done this yet, I don’t have pix of it!]

Sew a straight line along the binding, JUST INSIDE its seam-side edge.

Then ZIG-ZAG-Sew ON TOP OF the Double Fold Quilt Binding NEXT to the seam edge.

Fold TWO INCHES of theDouble-Fold-Bound BOTTOM EDGE of the Tub Stool Body Fabric UP, OVER its body – WRONG SIDES together! PRESS (iron) to create a crisp FOLD. Sew a seam 1/2" from the FOLDED edge ALL THE WAY AROUND the Bottom Fold. Sew another seam 1 and 1/2" from the FOLDED edge ALMOST all the way around the Fold – leaving about a 1" opening. This creates a 1/2"-indented 1"-WIDE DRAWSTRING CASING all the way around the BOTTOM of the TUB STOOL COVER; with a SMALL OPENING to use for inserting THE DRAWSTRING!

[Again! You have to IMAGINE that the bottom edge of the Tub Stool Body (the edge the PINS are going through) is sandwiched between Double Fold Quilt Binding in this PIC!]

STEP FOUR; MAKE THE DRAWSTRING(S):

Cut about a 1" length of BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE,
and TIGHTLY wind it around the DRAWSTRING cord at its END.

Cut TWO MORE 1" lengths of BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE and
“PARK” them on your sewing table edge.

Measure 5 FEET of CORD from the TAPED end. TIGHTLY WIND a 1" length of BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE around the cord at that point. TIGHTLY WIND the other 1" length of BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE immediately NEXT TO the previous one. CUT BETWEEN the two wound strips of ELECTRICAL TAPE. The ELECTRICAL TAPE keeps your cord’s ENDS from unraveling!

STEP FIVE; INSERT THE DRAWSTRING:

NEW in 2013: Buy a Drawstring Threader!!! This is a Dritz, but Any brand will do. Until you get one, you can Use the old directions, below.

Attach a LARGE SAFETY PIN to one end of the DRAWSTRING. Insert that PIN into the OPENING of the DRAWSTRING CASING. Scrunch the PIN through the DRAWSTRING CASING, pulling the DRAWSTRING through the casing as you go (by shifting the FABRIC along the Drawstring), until the PIN (and its Drawstring End), comes OUT the other side of the CASING OPENING. Do NOT let the UN-PINNED end of the DRAWSTRING get DRAWN INTO the CASING OPENING! Once the PINNED end of the DRAWSTRING comes out the other side of the CASING OPENING, SAFETY PIN BOTH DRAWSTRING ENDS TOGETHER! (This keeps both the ends from being sucked back INTO the CASING!)

OK. In REALITY, you’ve just finished PERUSING this PAGE!
That means, you should go to the PRINTER-FRIENDLY Instructions FILE now!
CLICK HERE to open the PDF INSTRUCTIONS FILE
For your PRINTING PLEASURE!

But, WAIT! There’s MORE!!!
[HEY! All the following is ALSO in the PDF file!]

Take 1 Tub Stool Cover, turn it UPSIDE DOWN and keep it open.

Put a Pillow Form into it, pushing the pillow down to the
SEAT END of the Tub Stool Cover, and CENTER it.

Invert the TUB and put its SEAT END into the UPSIDE DOWN Tub Stool Cover,
CENTERING it on the Pillow.

Pull the Tub Stool Cover Body UP and OVER the TUB, so that the
DRAWSTRING Casing is PAST the open end of the TUB.

Grab BOTH ends of the DRAWSTRING TOGETHER and
PULL them OUT OF the CASING, tightly drawing the
Tub Stool Cover Opening more and more CLOSED.
(The Tub Stool Cover’s opening should become tightly drawn
INTO the TUB’s open area.)

Adjust the CASING’s gathered bitz so that it is equally distributed
about the Tub Stool’s opening.

Take the LARGE SAFETY PIN out of the DRAWSTRING ENDS,
and insert it into the bottom of the Tub Stool Cover’s FABRIC (for “STORAGE”).

TIE the DRAWSTRING ENDS into a KNOT or a BIG DOUBLE BOW to secure it.

UP-END the Tub Stool and SET IT ON THE GROUND!

But, WAIT!
There’s STILL MORE!!!

UNTIE the Tub Stool DRAWSTRING.

Remove the LARGE SAFETY PIN from the Tub Stool fabric and
SAFETY PIN THE DRAWSTRING ENDS TOGETHER!
Trust me! You don’t want to let either end of the drawstring
get SUCKED into the CASING!!!

OPEN-WIDE the Tub Stool Cover.

Remove the TUB from the Tub Stool Cover.

Remove the PILLOW from the Tub Stool Cover.

Repeat this process for ALL TUB STOOLS. (LOL)

Use ONE Tub Stool Cover to store ALL PILLOWS in.

Use ONE Tub Stool Cover to store ALL other TUB STOOL COVERS in.

STACK all NAKED TUBS together!

That’s IT!!! I’m SHUTTING UP NOW!!!”

If you have suggestions or contributions for
MISTRESS CHAS’ RENAISSANCE WEB SITE,
Plz Email the “WebMistress” – Ms. Chas!
chas@novelholiday.com