2005-2009 Ford Mustang Coyote 5.0L Engine Swap

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The original all-aluminum SOHC 281ci (4.6L) 3V Modular engine in the 2005-2009 S197 Mustang GT was a smooth, robust, and reliable unit which was rated at 300hp & 320lbft with a 6250rpm redline. Its V8 soundtrack was intoxicating but the relatively small displacement left it 125hp & 100lbft behind muscle car rivals like the 2008 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 and the 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS. It was like bringing a knife to a gunfight!
However in 2011, that changed when Ford introduced a new all-aluminum DOHC 302ci (5.0L) 4V Coyote engine which was rated at 412hp & 390lbft with a 7000rpm redline. It was a home run. Enthusiasts drooled with excitement over the prospect of marrying this sexy new Five-O bombshell to the '05-'09 quasi-retro bodyshell to create their own idea of a perfect Mustang. Since this engine fits like a glove into the '05-'09 Mustang engine compartment using the OEM K-member plus motor mounts, and has a bellhousing bolt pattern that allows it to mate to an OEM '05-'09 GT transmission, a new engine swap craze was born.
Enthusiasts even lined up to swap the rip-snorting Coyote engine into older Ford models as well as the '05-'09 GT, and overnight the venerable 3V Modular engine had become the red-headed stepchild of the Mustang world. Ford Performance later sealed its fate by discontinuing production of both the 4.6L 3V crate engine and the 4.6L Aluminator short block. Indeed the entry-level modern V8 crate engine now offered by Ford Performance is the '18-'20 Gen 3 Coyote 5.0L rated at 460hp & 420lbft; a whopping 160hp & 100lbft increase over the '05-'09 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V.
Information regarding Coyote engine swaps into '05-'09 Mustangs is abundant but fragmented, so I've attempted to consolidate as much detail as possible into one page and answer frequently asked questions. The following parts list for a Gen 1 Coyote engine swap into an '05-'09 Mustang GT with a Tremec TR3650 manual transmission is the most economical route possible and is CA visual inspection/emissions compliant. The '05-'09 GT transmission, clutch assembly, AC compressor, and PS pump/steering rack can be retained for a substantial cost saving.

'11-'14 GT Used Long Block Engine with Flywheel, Starter, & Alternator
'11-'14 GT Used Manual Transmission PCM with custom tune, PATS delete, & VIN re-flash
'11-'14 GT Used Engine harness
'11-'14 GT Used Positive Battery-to-Starter cable
PBH N/A Coyote Swap Accessory Drive bracket kit: COY-ENG-BRKT
PBH Dakota Digital Speedometer Signal Interface: PCP-SPEEDO
PBH Coyote Swap Fuel System: PBH-FSS197
'11-'14 GT Used Intake Manifold with Throttle Body
'11-'14 GT Used Stock Air Filter Assembly
'11-'14 GT Used Stock Headers
'11-'14 GT Used Stock Midpipe
Two 2.75 to 2.5 exhaust reducers from '11-'14 Midpipe to '05-'09 Over Axle Pipes
'11-'19 GT Left Hand Heater Hose: BR3Z18472D
'11-'14 GT Right Hand Heater Hose: BR3Z18472B
'11-'14 GT Upper Radiator Hose: BR3Z8260BA
'11-'14 GT Lower Radiator Hose: KM-5136
New drive belt (check length required)
Ford Performance '96-'17 Roller Pilot Bearing: M-7600-B

Q. Should I even bother doing a Coyote swap at all?

A. It depends. A strong-running 4.6L 3V engine with stage 2b bolt-on upgrades that puts out 400hp & 375lbft is only slightly less powerful than a stock Gen 1 Mustang Coyote so you may feel it's unnecessary. You could even supercharge a healthy stock (or built) 4.6L 3V, boost it to 546hp & 517lbft, and bring a real gun instead of a knife to a gunfight!
On the other hand if your original 4.6L 3V is tired or has suffered terminal damage, you could either rebuild it with upgraded components or swap in a brand new forged 290-326ci (4.75-5.35L) 3V stroker short block or long block crate engine. This avoids all the hassles of a Coyote swap. However if that seductive Coyote engine is too tempting to ignore, supply is increasing and prices are falling so it could be worth taking the plunge. It's also a good excuse to substitute the original GT emblems on the '05-'09 front fenders with those desirable 5.0 fender emblems from an '11-'14 GT.

Q. Could I swap in the more powerful 435hp & 400lbft rated '15-'17 Gen 2 Mustang Coyote instead of the '11-'14 Gen 1?

A. Absolutely. It isn't easy to find a Gen 1 from a totaled '11-'14 GT with under 50k miles, and it doesn't have the forged connecting rods plus upgraded heads/cams that were fitted to the '15-'17 Gen 2 Mustang Coyote. Therefore swapping in a low mileage Gen 2 engine makes a lot of sense. If you opt for a brand new Ford Performance crate engine, the entry-level Coyote will be the current and more expensive Gen 3 version.

Q. Could I swap in a cheaper 385hp & 387lbft rated Gen 2 F-150 engine instead of the Gen 2 Mustang version?

A. Yes you could, and the PBH Gen 2 F-150 Coyote Engine Harness for Ford Performance Control Pack makes that possible, but you'd need the Mustang timing cover to mount the PBH accessory brackets.
By comparison the Mustang engine has a higher 11.0:1 compression ratio (F-150 is 10.5:1), more aggressive intake cams, a shorter runner intake manifold, a windage tray, a higher capacity oil pan, and beefier oil pump gears. The differences between the F-150 and Mustang Coyote engines are summarized here. You could upgrade the F-150 engine to Mustang spec but by the time you add up the cost, you'd have been better off buying a Mustang engine in the first place.

Q. Could I swap in a used '18-'20 Gen 3 Mustang Coyote?

A. Low mileage used Gen 3 Coyote engines from totaled '18-'20 Mustang GTs are becoming more affordable, and Ford Performance has also developed a Control Pack (part no. M-6017-M50B) to make a Gen 3 Coyote engine swap possible into older manual transmission Mustangs and hot rods.

Q. How much will a Coyote swap cost?

A. Theoretically you could do it for as little as the purchase cost of a totaled but complete '11-'14 GT parts donor if you do all the work yourself. In reality you're likely to need some new OEM parts (perhaps even a brand new crate engine or a good low mileage Gen 2/3), add some upgrades, and pay a professional workshop to do some of the work. Realistically you'd need to budget a minimum of $10,000 for parts alone, and the overall cost could easily escalate beyond $20,000, so a Coyote swap isn't for the faint-hearted or the shallow-pocketed!

Q. Is the stock '05-'09 GT radiator adequate for a Coyote swap?

A. If you still have the original factory radiator, you should preferably upgrade to a thicker aftermarket all-aluminum unit especially if you plan to add forced induction.

Q. Will I need to upgrade my stock TR3650 transmission and clutch assembly?

A. The TR3650 is rated to 390lbft of input torque so the original transmission and clutch assembly will be fine as long as the Coyote engine remains close to stock. However you'd need to eventually upgrade those items if you significantly increase the engine's power output with performance parts. Indeed if you're planning to add forced induction, consider swapping in a stronger manual transmission such as the Tremec TR6060, TKO 500/600, or T56 Magnum XL from the outset. Keep in mind that you'd need the Coyote flywheel so if it isn't already included with the engine, you'd need to buy it separately.

Q. What if my '05-'09 GT has a 5R55S 5-speed automatic transmission?

A. Unless you have very deep pockets or own a professional workshop, forget it. At the very least you'd need to beef up the 5R55S with upgraded parts to handle the extra torque, upgrade the torque converter, marry the 5R55S transmission wiring harness to the Coyote PCM wiring harness, and reprogram the shift points plus the torque converter lock-up.
It would be much easier to buy a totaled but complete '11-'14 GT automatic to use as a parts donor and swap in the stronger 6R80 6-speed transmission, cross member, driveshaft, body harness, and PCM together with the Coyote engine and other components required to complete the project.

Q. My Mustang is a 2005-2009 V6 model. Is it worth the time, effort, and expense to do a Coyote swap?

A. Again, unless you have very deep pockets or own a professional workshop, forget it. Apart from replacing the engine you'd need to upgrade the transmission, flywheel or flexplate, clutch assembly or torque converter, driveshaft, rear axle, suspension, brakes, wheels/tires, and exhaust/cooling/fuel systems. There's also the added challenge of making the V6 gauges and HVAC system function correctly. It's a daunting project that only someone who's madly in love with the '05-'09 Mustang bodystyle would even contemplate!
If you want to build the car for street use, you'd really need to buy a totaled but complete '11-'14 GT to use as a donor for all the swap parts required to successfully complete the project. Fortunately a race car build is much less complex since you could remove a long list of factory components that are surplus to requirements, eliminate a lot of wiring, add custom parts, and shave off a lot of weight. Brenspeed built a full bolt-ons 485rwhp & 416rwtq (540hp & 458lbft at crank on MS109 race fuel) N/A Gen 2 Coyote-powered drag car called Baby Blue Balls (3380lb with driver) that ran the 1/4 mile in 10.727 @ 127.22 with an MT82 6-speed manual transmission, using a clean and undamaged '05 V6 base model as a cheap foundation for their project.

Q. Could I add performance parts to extract more power from a stock 435hp & 400lbft Gen 2 Mustang Coyote?

A. Absolutely! A cold air intake, long tube headers with shorty midpipe, performance catbacks, a ported 2018 GT intake manifold, and a 93 octane custom tune would turn it into a 520hp & 448lbft screamer with a 7400rpm redline, but forget about passing a CA vehicle inspection or emissions test! Alternatively, you could add forced induction to boost the engine to 650+hp.

Q. What about the 460hp & 420lbft Gen 3 Mustang Coyote?

Ford should have rated this masterpiece at 480hp & 440lbft but despite the increased factory outputs over the Gen 2, it still responds well to bolt-on upgrades. Adding a cold air intake, long tube headers with shorty midpipe, performance catbacks, and a 93 octane custom tune raises outputs to 532hp & 472lbft. The resultant specific torque of 94lbft per liter is absolutely mind-blowing for a N/A production engine on pump gas.

Q. Which engine management system should I use?

A. The first and more preferable option is the OEM '11-'14 GT PCM as this will make the car emissions legal in all states. However if the engine swap is a Gen 2 or 3 Coyote, you'd need to transplant Gen 1 camshaft timing components to ensure proper TiVCT functionality.
The second option is to use any of the Ford Performance Control Packs that matches the engine to be swapped into the car.

Q. Will any systems be disabled if I do a Coyote swap?

A. Yes, namely the traction control and cruise control systems but there's a wiring solution for the latter. If you use an OEM '11-'14 GT PCM, you'll need to have the PATS disabled to prevent a no start situation, and have the correct VIN flashed into the donor PCM to pass a vehicle inspection. If you use the Ford Performance Control Pack, you'll have the additional problem of it not being emissions legal on street-driven vehicles in certain states. Therefore it should only be reserved either for competition use, for older Mustangs that are emissions exempt, or for street use in states where emissions regulations are less stringent.

Q. Will all of the stock '05-'09 GT gauges work?

A. The instrument cluster is connected to the CAN Bus so the tachometer, voltmeter, and cylinder head temperature gauge will work correctly as the inputs for those are supplied by the PCM. The fuel level gauge and oil pressure gauge will also work correctly provided you use the '05-'09 GT sending units. However the speedometer will require alteration of the input signal as described below.

As you can see, a Coyote swap takes a lot of planning and isn't just a weekend plug n' play job. It pays to shop around for used parts, do as much work as possible yourself, and sell the leftover parts removed from the vehicle to minimize the overall cost of the project.

PBH N/A Accessory Drive Bracket Kit

The PBH Performance bracket kit is designed to mount the AC compressor and power steering pump from the 1996-2010 Mustang GT onto the Mustang Coyote timing cover in their original locations alongside a relocated, reverse-mounted clutchless '11-'17 Mustang Coyote alternator. This allows the '05-'09 AC and power steering lines to be reused, thus reducing the cost of the engine swap.

Q. Could I reuse my stock '05-'08 Motorcraft alternator?

A. Yes but given its sketchy reliability, you may choose not to bother. The '09-'10 Nippon Denso 3V GT alternator is much better but, like the '05-'08 alternator, it has to be reverse-mounted on the PBH alternator relocation bracket, and it would require a clutchless pulley (automatic transmission) in order to charge the battery. Otherwise, the '11-'17 Coyote alternator is the desired option and if it isn't already included with the engine, you could opt for the Ford Performance Coyote Swap/Boss 302 alternator kit (part no. M-8600-M50BALT). However the latter has a one-way clutch and cannot be reverse-mounted.

Q. Could I swap in the EPAS rack from an '11-'14 GT?

A. Yes. Since you're already going to add an '11-'14 GT positive battery-to-starter cable (part no. WC96240, CR3Z-14300-EA), it's virtually plug n' play. To make it fit, you'd need to create a third bolt hole and weld a captive nut on the '05-'09 GT K-member. Alternatively you could swap in an '11-'14 GT K member with EPAS rack as a single unit. An EPAS swap deletes the '05-'09 GT PS pump, hoses, and fluid reservoir thereby decluttering the front of the engine bay. For a race car build, you could opt for a Flaming River manual steering rack. This provides the additional advantage of a 10-15lb weight saving. If you delete the '05-'09 hydraulic PS, you can mount the Coyote alternator in its original location. You'd then only need to buy the PBH AC compressor bracket unless you delete the AC system to save even more space/weight.

Speedometer Signal Interface

The Ford Performance Control Pack and the OEM '11-'14 GT PCM do not recognise the '05-'09 transmission OSS signal and as a result, the speedo on '05-'09 Mustang instrument clusters will not read correctly. The signal thus needs to be converted to the type that the '05-'09 speedometer uses for its reading. Dakota Digital offers a box that makes this conversion really easy. Input the OSS signal from the harness and adapt it to whatever your speedometer needs to get it working perfectly.

The Ford Performance Speedometer Recalibration Device M-4209ADPT-AC is a similar device that transforms the transmission OSS signal into a format that the PCM recognizes. The PCM uses this signal to determine if the vehicle is in motion, and to determine the correct engine idling characteristics during extended coasting to a stop in order to prevent it from stalling. The change in the signal from the OSS can compensate for axle ratio swaps or changes in tire size. Speed Dial can increase the OSS signal up to 200% of the original signal, or decrease the signal by as much as 99%. Once the proper ratio has been determined, simply dial it into Speed Dial and the speedometer now reads correctly.

Coyote Swap Fuel System

The stock '05-'09 GT returnless fuel system must be converted to a return style system for Coyote engine swaps. You could swap in most of the fuel system components from a totaled '11-'14 GT, but there are alternative systems available that can be upgraded if you decide to add forced induction later on.

The PBH Coyote Swap fuel system for the '05-'09 GT comes with a drop-in 255lph fuel pump/gauge sending unit assembly for the '05-'09 tank that is a direct replacement for the OEM pump assembly. PBH adds the -6AN return line fitting to complete your return style modification. It also includes 35ft of Flex LP fuel line, 8 x straight -6AN fittings, an OEM Coyote fuel rail and adapter fitting, fuel pump feed adapter fitting, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, fuel filter housing, fuel filter, and fuel filter mount. All the pieces you need to get the fuel system routed on your Coyote swapped '05-'09 GT in one kit.

The Fore Innovations L1 Fuel System (dual pump) is an 800rwhp capable return fuel system that uses the OEM Coyote fuel rails. It includes an S197-S fuel pump module, F1i fuel pressure regulator, 88mm inline fuel filter, and FCV check valve plus all fittings, hose, and hardware necessary to complete typical fuel line plumbing.

The Aeromotive Stealth A1000 Street Fuel System uses an Aeromotive Stealth A1000 fuel pump that's designed to fit inside the OEM fuel tank and integrate with the OEM fuel level sending unit plus jet-siphon transfer pump. It also includes a 40-micron high-flow filter, one-piece CNC Y-block, billet high-flow fuel rails, billet EFI pressure regulator, and ORB port fittings. A Fuel Pump Electrical Supply is also provided, including a Fuel Pump Speed Controller designed to keep fuel cool in cars that will see extended street driving but still need full pump performance for all out racing. Fuel lines and hose ends are sold separately. A Tach Adapter will be required to operate the Pump Speed Controller.