Sangiovese

________________VINO! by Muukii the Finn

Ahhhh...sangiovese... backbone of the Italian wine industry, and perhaps the oldest cultivated grape in the world. Dark, spicy, tannic, fruity and potent, it's one of the best wines to serve with beefy, spicy, Italian dishes. However, making varietals out of the sangiovese grape is a fairly new trend. First grown in the hills of Tuscany in the days of the Etruscans, it has always been blended with other grapes (like caniolo, to create Chianti), and it has only been in the last twenty years since Italian law emphasized quality over quantity, that the very idea of a bottle of sangiovese seemed to have some merit. A few years ago I first noticed Antinori's Santa Cristina and thought it would be nice to try a bottle of the grape on its own, for no other reason than to better understand what goes into Chianti. I was also drawn to the affordable price. It became one of my favorite "everyday" wines when a big batch of spaghetti was in order. Now, there is a rash of varietal sangiovese releases from all over the world. Yes, even California, where no trend goes untried. But, I'm a traditionalist, and I wanted to get back to the mother land of sangiovese, so I got four bottles from Tuscany itself, and had a little taste test, and brought some friends along for the ride.
In general, sangiovese tends to be fruity and acidic, with less oakeyness than Chianti. And though it can have a nice tannic bite and potency, it is also, by the nature of the beast, a bit one- dimensional. Not the wine to get if you want to linger rapturously over tenderloin, but fabulous to wash down a garlicky plate of pasta and meatballs. It is cleansing, with lots of ripe fruit for the mouth and spicy cherry for the nose. "Sangiovese" comes from the Latin "sangius jovis" meaning "the blood of Jupiter" - a good name to describe its dark ruby colour, and its thickness. It tends to be hearty yet simple and satisfying.
The four wines we tried were: Fonte al Sole 1997, from Ruffino ($11.95); Santa Cristina 1998, by Antinori ($8.95); Frescobaldi's Pater 1997 ($11.95); and Ricasoli Formulæ 1996 ($13.55 ). One of the first things I noticed was the surprising variety of flavours even though all four were from the same province of Italy. The grape is reputed to be highly influenced by the micro- climate it is grown in and that was quite evident.
Upon first opening the Pater, I received some odd earthy smells. Not unpleasant, but unexpected. Things like cabbage, or turnips came to mind, but after the bottle had a chance to breathe, more conventionally pleasant scents like citrus and dark chocolate emerged. All smells were very faint, however, and it was difficult to discern much at all. Of the four, it was the lightest in colour, with little hints of straw high-lighting the ruby. Taste was a little weak and watery, but hints of white pepper and citrus came through. It also had undertones of leafy green clover. Consensus was that this would be nice a little chilled, and served with vegetarian dishes, or with a chicken primavera, for those who can't abide white wines. It finished last in our little survey, but one taster picked it as his favorite, showing that all of these wines can be greatly enjoyed.
Next up was my old standby from Antinori, the Santa Cristina. It had a slightly bolder aroma than the Pater, but it was still quite faint. Pretty straightforward, it gave the nose a dose of grape (what a surprise!!) with hints of black pepper. Being the youngest of the four, the colour has not had a chance to mellow, and it was the darkest ruby of the lot. The taste was a bit undeveloped as well, and though sangiovese should be enjoyed while young, this could probably use a year in the cellar. However, it is still pleasantly clean, very dry, and quite bold and peppery. Picked by the panel anywhere from second to last place, it will stand up well to a spicy marinara, but it might be a bit clumsy for a gourmet meal. The oldest of the lot, the Ricasoli Formulæ was tinged by glints of mossy green in the ruby, and had a slightly bigger nose, touched with cherry, plum, and warm butterscotch. Bold, complex flavours with fairly well balanced tannins marked this wine. Grassy, sunny, buttery, light, and earthy were all words that were used to describe it. There was a hint of sour cherry as well, that was not altogether unpleasant, but made us feel as though it was just a little past its prime. (It may also be that 1996 was just a difficult year in that area for sangiovese. It can be notoriously difficult to ripen, with inconsistent, green tannins resulting.) This wine would make a good match for those spicy Italian beef dishes, but I wouldn't let it hang around the wine rack very long.
Our overwhelming favorite was the Fonte Al Sole from Ruffino. On first sniff it separated itself with a huge nose full of sweet, complex cherry and plum, smooth vanilla and chocolate, and spicy leather undertones. Of the four, it was the only one with a dark purple hue, lurking inside a blood red that was not quite as dark as the Santa Cristina. A wine of supple balance, hints of smooth caramel and vanilla worked off of pepper and black cherry. Nicely rounded and complex tannins made it the only wine with an appreciable finish, lingering on the tongue, coaxing the next sip or bite of food. Not a wine to match with bolder dishes, though, as it would most likely get lost next to a spicy tomato sauce. If your grandma makes a sublime chicken cacciatore, or you are serving an array of mild or moderately aged cheeses, this is the wine for you.
You'll notice that I've tried to make suggestions on what to serve with each wine. This is important for all wine, but especially for sangiovese. This wine is made to have with food, and I'll guarantee that you won't enjoy them as much without a meal alongside it. My suggestion is to take a little culinary trip to Tuscany, and try a varietal sangiovese or two. Watch that you're not paying an exorbitant amount for an old wine past its time, and enjoy yourself with some friends or family.