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Replacing Your Chain the Hard Way

or

How to Accidentaly Check Your Swing Arm Bearings

Here' s what I did to change my chain. Since my old continuous chain was in not too bad a shape, I decided to keep it intact, just in case... Bad idea! Dropping the swing arm turned out to be a lot more work that I expected, and putting everything back can be a lot of fun, especially if you are alone to do it. See it by yourself.

You should adopt this procedure if the new chain is a continuous chain.

If your new chain has a master link and you don't care of keeping the old one, here is the easiest way to replace it, without even opening the front sprocket cover:

break the old chain with a chain breaker, or grind away the head of one pin and remove it.
use the master link to join old and new chain and make one long open chain.
Pull the old chain off. The new chain will be installed.
Once the new chain is on, remove the old chain
Close the master link
you're done!

Click on the pictures for a larger version.

Put the bike on the center stand.
Remove the cotter pin and remove the rear axle nut.

Use a rubber mallet to push the axle so that you can grab it easily from the other side.

Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and put a piece of cardboard between the pads.
Take note of how the caliper bracket is mounted on the rear axle. You will need to know later. You can guess how I found out.

Remove the cotter pin and nut from the caliper arm, and move the caliper out of the way so that you can remove the rear wheel easily.

I find that the best way to remove (or install) the rear axle is to sit on the back and lift the rear wheel with my feet while I pull the axle.
Make sure you don't loose any spacer, and take note of the order. Check your Clymer manual if you can't figure out the order of things when you put it back.

Push the wheel forward and remove the chain from the rear sprocket.

Remove the rear wheel and set it aside. Make sure that it's not resting on the disk rotor or you may warp it.

Remove the bolts that hold the front sprocket cover.

With a marker, draw a line across the the gearshift lever and shaft, so that you have a reference when you have to put it back.
Remove the bolt that holds the gearshift lever.

Remove the gearshift lever. Open it up a flat head screwdriver if you can't pull it out.

Ouch, a lot of metal shavings and a few broken o-rings mixed with general gunk in there!
Usually its a good idea to replace the sprockets at the same time. My front one had only 1.5k miles and the rear one was in good shape, so I did not change them.
Otherwise, remove the circlip and replace the front one. Then unbolt the rear and replace it.

Put a box under the swing arm so that it will not fall down.

Remove the bolts that holds the shock rods (aka dog bones) to the shock linkage. The swing arm should be free to move up and down now.

Remove the plastic cap and the swing arm pivot shaft nut. I seem to remember that you need a 19 mm socket here.

Remove the cap and the swing arm pivot bolt. The swing arm should fall down.

Make sure that the rear brake line is not stretching too much. If someone told me how to open those f***ing clamps that hold it to the swing arm I'd be very grateful.

With an allen wrench (6 mm, I think), unbolt the front peg bracket and remove it.

Remove the black rubber drive chain guard from the swing arm. Now you should have just enough room to take the chain off.

This is a good chance to check and service your swing arm bearings. Read your Clymer manual for what to do.

Put a piece of cardboard on the floor to avoid picking up dirt with the new chain. Install the new chain and roll it over the front sprocket BEFORE reinstalling the swing arm pivot shaft. Don't' ask...
Reinstall the swing arm pivot shaft. It's a good idea to have a friend to help you holding the swing arm in position when you need to put it back in. I did it by myself --twice-- and it was NOT fun.

Reconnect the shock rods to the shock linkage.

Reinstall the rear wheel and the rear axle. Make sure you have all the spacers, in the right place. Note the caliper bracket should be pointing outwards, as now I know too well :-/.
If your chain has a master link make sure that the closed part is facing the direction of travel of the chain. And make also sure that you put the clip facing the outside rather than facing the wheel... Again, don't ask!

Slip the chain on the rear sprocket.

Reinstall the rear caliper.

Put the bike on the side stand and adjust the chain. It should have approx. 1" of slack at the center point between the front and rear sprocket. If you can do as some people suggest, that is sitting on the bike and adjusting the chain at the same time you're truly amazing.

Make sure the rear wheel is well aligned. Tighten the rear axle nut at 36-59 ft-lb and replace the cotter pin.

Take the bike for a spin. Readjust the chain if necessary.

	Put the bike on the center stand. Remove the cotter pin and remove the rear axle nut.
	Use a rubber mallet to push the axle so that you can grab it easily from the other side.
	Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and put a piece of cardboard between the pads. Take note of how the caliper bracket is mounted on the rear axle. You will need to know later. You can guess how I found out.
	Remove the cotter pin and nut from the caliper arm, and move the caliper out of the way so that you can remove the rear wheel easily.
	I find that the best way to remove (or install) the rear axle is to sit on the back and lift the rear wheel with my feet while I pull the axle. Make sure you don't loose any spacer, and take note of the order. Check your Clymer manual if you can't figure out the order of things when you put it back. Push the wheel forward and remove the chain from the rear sprocket. Remove the rear wheel and set it aside. Make sure that it's not resting on the disk rotor or you may warp it.
	Remove the bolts that hold the front sprocket cover.
	With a marker, draw a line across the the gearshift lever and shaft, so that you have a reference when you have to put it back. Remove the bolt that holds the gearshift lever.
	Remove the gearshift lever. Open it up a flat head screwdriver if you can't pull it out.
	Ouch, a lot of metal shavings and a few broken o-rings mixed with general gunk in there! Usually its a good idea to replace the sprockets at the same time. My front one had only 1.5k miles and the rear one was in good shape, so I did not change them. Otherwise, remove the circlip and replace the front one. Then unbolt the rear and replace it.
	Put a box under the swing arm so that it will not fall down.
	Remove the bolts that holds the shock rods (aka dog bones) to the shock linkage. The swing arm should be free to move up and down now.
	Remove the plastic cap and the swing arm pivot shaft nut. I seem to remember that you need a 19 mm socket here.
	Remove the cap and the swing arm pivot bolt. The swing arm should fall down.
	Make sure that the rear brake line is not stretching too much. If someone told me how to open those f***ing clamps that hold it to the swing arm I'd be very grateful.
	With an allen wrench (6 mm, I think), unbolt the front peg bracket and remove it.
	Remove the black rubber drive chain guard from the swing arm. Now you should have just enough room to take the chain off. This is a good chance to check and service your swing arm bearings. Read your Clymer manual for what to do.
	Put a piece of cardboard on the floor to avoid picking up dirt with the new chain. Install the new chain and roll it over the front sprocket BEFORE reinstalling the swing arm pivot shaft. Don't' ask... Reinstall the swing arm pivot shaft. It's a good idea to have a friend to help you holding the swing arm in position when you need to put it back in. I did it by myself --twice-- and it was NOT fun. Reconnect the shock rods to the shock linkage.
	Reinstall the rear wheel and the rear axle. Make sure you have all the spacers, in the right place. Note the caliper bracket should be pointing outwards, as now I know too well :-/. If your chain has a master link make sure that the closed part is facing the direction of travel of the chain. And make also sure that you put the clip facing the outside rather than facing the wheel... Again, don't ask! Slip the chain on the rear sprocket. Reinstall the rear caliper. Put the bike on the side stand and adjust the chain. It should have approx. 1" of slack at the center point between the front and rear sprocket. If you can do as some people suggest, that is sitting on the bike and adjusting the chain at the same time you're truly amazing. Make sure the rear wheel is well aligned. Tighten the rear axle nut at 36-59 ft-lb and replace the cotter pin. Take the bike for a spin. Readjust the chain if necessary.