The Valley itself is a lunar landscape that on the surface only an astronaut could embrace with any sense of appreciation. Images of grizzled old prospectors leading a team of pack animals, trudging up a dusty, mountain trail in search of the Mother Lode with such a fervor, that it causes gold fever. Mule teams, twenty strong haul loads of borax from the desert These are images people have of Death Valley. Images from old postcards or newspaper clippings and a television show, but, the fact is something different. It's an oasis of reflective exploration, inward, and outward, as it's beauty and solitude immerse you deep into a new reality.
Death Valley National Monument, as it was first designated in 1933, was elevated to "park" status in 1994. Tourism was off and running from the starting line in the 1920's as Henry Ford's assembly lines went on blue collar factory overdrive to mass produce automobiles at a pace and price within reach of the motor mad masses. The supposed curative powers of Death Valleys natural springs attracted tourists during the flapper era of the Roaring Twenties like buzzards feasting on roadkill. Roosevelt, Franklin, not Eleanor, had the WPA programs include the blazing of trails through the Panamint Range of the desert area and campgrounds were set up to accommodate the new trade of auto-tourism.
It's a composite of snow capped mountains, canyons, mineral layers of rocks that change hue as the sun shifts westward causing a kaleidoscopic effect Lucy in the Sky would be proud of. Steep canyons and silent sand dunes shifting to create a puzzle of natures perfect synchronicity. Flora and fauna are surprisingly abundant, and cactus blooms in spring give the desert a look and feel of life itself, a new awakening, a rejuvenation. The lowest point in the park, and in the United States, is located at the aptly named Badwater which is 282 feet below sea level. It was here in the Sixties that I spent my most memorable camping trip to Death Valley.
(Excerpt from Bum Wines and the Peyote Coyote by Mike Marino: "We arrived in Death Valley near the end of the day so decided to park it and camp it. In those days you could pretty well just pull off the side of the road and set up your rustic version of Xanadu and rule the realm, and we made it to Bad Water which is about the limbo pole low as you can go in the continental United States at a basement foundation depth of 282 feet below sea level. We unloaded the sleeping bags, cook gear and food, along with one of the kites, three bottles of wine and flannel shirts for later in the evening. Limited campfires were permitted in those days, and a pit dug in the sand sufficed as fire pit. John, in his Muir-like wisdom had brought an ample supply of firewood along for numerous small fires as opposed to one that would reach the sky and herald the opening ceremony of a Burning Man gathering of the tribes. We got the camp stove fired up, black beans and rice ready to be transformed into the eighth wonder of the gastronomical world and as the sun began to set we started the small fire, each of us dropping a hit of acid and rolling joints from good old Mex weed for a chaser, and then John broke out a guitar and me my harmonica, as Myrika sketched madly away in her book, Olivia unloading her camera for some color shots of the sunset, John strumming away on the Gibson to his own tune, and me playing along on harmonica, as best I could, to a desert blues tune.")
desert hiking is the best way to get up close and personal with the surrealistic surroundings of Death Valley. You do have to do your homework, checking out trail maps, weather, and making yourself aware of any dangers that may arise from rattlesnakes to a lack of water. Ranger stations have that information, and you should avail yourself of their expertise. Don't let the uniforms and badge scare you off! Topo maps may be needed in some areas and are available at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center and other ranger stations in the park.
Hikers have to bear in mind is that there are not many constructed trails in the desert for obvious sand shifting reasons, but you can blaze your own trail across canyons or along ridges. The weather is pretty extreme here from winter storms in season to scorching temperatures in the summer that can reach up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Always dress for the season you intend to visit and bring the appropriate clothing and supplies you will need. No need to list those out here if you are an experienced backpacker, you know what to bring. The less experienced should do their research, and if planning a hiking trip to the park, go with someone who is experienced. It could be a life saver and make the journey all the more pleasant with good company.
Water is more valuable than gold in the desert, so you have to drink more than normal, and always carry plenty with you. You could get lost, and if there aren't any water supplies nearby you could be in for a nasty, thirsty experience. Drink as you hike is the golden rule to ward off dehydration as you will be burning calories faster than the Chicago fire. Available water in the desert should be looked at suspiciously and treated before drinking.
Campgrounds abound and the park as nine of them. To find out availabilities, rules and regs you can contact the park at (800) 365-2267.
One side-trip of must see magnitude is Scotty's Castle where guides give you the grand tour of Death Valley Ranch as it is called. It is a glimpse into the past of the Depression Era of a retreat that became a hideout and getaway for one of the more mysterious denizens of the desert, Walter Scott, better known as Death Valley Scotty. He claimed it was built with money he had obtained from his hidden gold mine which no one has found to this day. The mystery continues to baffle and excite fans who get turned on my myth and fantasy.
There is contemplative solitude in the desert to be savored as much as a supply of cold water in a parched landscape. It is stark and surreal making it all the more spiritual and life enhancing, better shared with good companions. It's a great southern California getaway and a great way to get Death Valley Dazed!