Basic Guide to Painting Transformers Figures

Hello and welcome to another one of my custom guides! Today we're tackling repainting a basic Transformers figure. Keep in mind this is only a guide, not follow-like-it's-law rules. This guide shows how I personally paint a transformer and there are many different ways to do this. At the time of this guide's creation Transformers were made a bit different so you'll need to alter the steps as needed.

**UPDATES* While you can hand-paint your basecoat as shown in the guide I recommend using Tamiya Spray Lacquers as your basecoat now. It fully cures in an hour and resists rubbing really well. Testors One Coat Lacquer (all metallic colors however) works the same way and it's found at Michael's Crafts. It's recommended you primer your figures and Bulldog Adhesion promoter found at O'Reilley's Auto Parts is an amazing clear primer that makes ANY paint stick. Just take care to use it outdoors because of the fumes. Duplicolor also makes and Adhesion promoter.

I often remove unscrew bodies and pop-apart ball-jointed sections of the newer Transformers to make it easier but never remove pins unless absolutely necessary. A Cold Heat Soldering tool allows you to heat pins up and push them out easier. You can also unscrew sections to paint separately and use aluminum foil to cover up sections. Silly putty can be 'sculpted' over windows or smaller sections to act as a paint mask. For painting details I use:

Buy Testors Model Master acrylic paints

Buy Formula P3 paints by Privateer Press

Buy Tamiya Spray Lacquers

Games Workshop paints

Vallejo Model Color

About the last step, sealing: If your figure has any soft rubber parts like tires, nosecones, or faces, cover them up with painter's tape or tinfoil. Any spray-on sealers like Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic or Tamiya clear Lacquer will make these tacky and will never dry on them, slowly dissolving the softer plastics. Alternately you can brush on or airbrush on an artists varnish. I prefer Liquitx Acrylic Varnish in satin or matte for areas like tires or non-glossy characters like military ones.

This guide is split up into two parts. Click the link all the way at the bottom of the page to continue to part 2.

*PART 2*

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