Site hosted by Build your free website today!

Adam Wolf figured out how to install a Honda S2000 button in his M1 Miata.

The following pages describe how I installed an S2000 button in my M2 based on his instructions.

You will need the following parts and supplies:

1. A Honda S2000 starter button. Part number 35881-S2A-911. It can be ordered from

2. A SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Relay; 30 amp/12 volts

3. A crimping tool/wire cutter

4. Some 12 gauge wire

5. Some 18 gauge wire

6. Some 10-12 gauge Quick Connectors

7. Some 10-12 gauge Butt Connectors

8. Some 18-22 gauge Quick Connectors

9. Some 18-22 gauge Butt Connectors

10. A 12 gauge Ring Connector for the Ground – you'll also need a bolt, nut and lock washer.

11. A Dremel Tool (I don't think I could have done this without one)

12. A thin metal ruler (this is for coaxing the plastic center piece from around the radio, etc.)

13. A roll of Electrical tape

14. Some 12 gauge and 18 gauge "Vampire" taps

15. A good light (I use one from Sears that is handheld and has fluorescent bulbs — this is really useful under the dash when looking for places to ground the relay, etc.)

16. You may need a Close Quarter Hack Saw. The button is only a little shorter than the space behind the lighter. There is a piece of plastic back there that I removed with the hack saw to make sure the button had plenty of room. I'm not sure it was necessary.

• • • • •

Disconnect the Negative Terminal from the Battery (10mm nut).

Remove the Kick Plate under the Steering Wheel – there are two Phillips head screws.

Here is a Wiring Diagram with pictures which will be helpful with the installation:

The relay has five (12 gauge) wires attached to it.

Crimp a female Quick Connect to the end of five wires and connect them to the relay.

Four of the wires should be about 12 inches long (you can trim them shorter later).

The fifth wire (which connects relay pole 85 to the BRB) needs be be long enough to reach from under the dash by the steering column to where the BRB will be installed – in this case, the cigarette lighter hole.

A ring connector was crimped to the end of the wire that connects to relay pole 86 (ground).

I bolted the Ring Connector to a hole in a bracket to the left of the steering column under the dash. By removing the Fuse Holder access panel (by the Hood Release), I was able to use my left hand to help hold the nut, lock washer and wrench.

I let the relay hang under the dash by the Ground wire and attached the other four wires as I needed when the time came.

• • • • •

Disconnect the White Connector (seen below) from the Ignition. There is a small tab that has to be squeezed to separate the white connector from the ignition. This white connector has six wires coming out of it.

It will be helpful if you isolate the IG2 (Black with red stripe) and the ST (White with black stripe) from the others. They are at each end of the same row.

Left: The white connector with the IG2 and ST wires pulled away.

Right: The middle four wires have been taped to isolate the IG2 and ST wires.

Cut the two exposed wires about halfway up. Be careful not to cut too closely to the white connector.

The Wiring Diagram (at the top) shows the wires after cutting and illustrates how they connect to the relay.

It also tells which sex Quick Connectors need to be crimped onto the wires.

After connecting the wires to the relay (making sure the wire from pole 85 reaches over to where the button will be installed), you can tape or zip tie the relay securely under the dash. I taped mine to a large group of wires right under the steering column.

• • • • •

Replace the kick plate under the steering wheel.

• • • • •

Now it is time to remove the Console and the Plastic Center piece that surrounds the Radio/CD player, etc.

There are five screws and two hidden clips which hold the Console in place:

Screws #1 & 2 are on the sides under plastic caps;

#3 & 4 are under the Storage Bin;

#5 is under the Ash Tray. (It is located under the power window switch on a 2001. You'll have to remove the switch to access the 5th screw.)

Remove the gear shift knob.

Grasp the console just above where the first two screws were.

Yank up and the console should pop right out.

Note: the Electric Window Switch wires are connected to the underside of the Console.

Next, remove the Plastic Center Piece around the radio.

Remove the two screws seen in the picture of the Console Clips (two above) which will free up the plastic piece at the bottom.

To remove it completely, there are six clips (two on top, two on each side) which have to be massaged out of their holes.

I used a thin metal ruler which I slide up from below along each outside edge to free them.

• • • • •

The BRB was installed in the cigarette lighter hole, so the lighter had to be removed:

I cut the wires as shown above.

In order to get the lighter out of the plastic piece, I had to remove a nut on the back of it (you'll see it); then it was in two pieces. I pushed the metal sleeve and green ring out the front.

Note: Before going any further, you need to consider where you want to relocate your lighter. It could continue to be used as a lighter or as a power accessory. I extended the two wires above over to behind the glove box and zip tied the lighter to a vertical metal brace. I then plugged in curly wire extension cord I picked up at Advance Auto Parts for $8.00 (p/n: 18708) into the lighter and draped it over the back of and into the glove box. I use it as a power source for my air pump, cell phone, etc.

 • • • Install the BRB • • •

In order to get the button in the cigarette lighter hole, the hole had to be enlarged. If it weren't for the Dremel tool, I don't think I could have managed to ream out the hole. It took two hours. When you get the button in your hand, it will be obvious what you have to do to get it in the hole. Here is a picture of the button after it has been fitted to the reamed out hole:

I removed the Air Bag stuff so I could bring the plastic piece inside to Dremel the hole. It just pops out after unhooking the white wire connector. (You'll see when you get there.)

• • • • •

There are three wires which need to be prepared to connect to the back of the Honda Starter Button :

1. a wire from the Relay pole 85.

2. a wire which has been tapped into the Yellow wire on the Lighter for power.

3. a wire which tapped into the blue E-Brake wire to illuminate the button (see below) :

The E-Brake wire is encased in a black rubber protective tube. I sliced the tube open enough to pull the blue E-Brake wire out and crimp on a Vampire tap to a wire (red) which was then connected to prong #3 on the Honda button.

• • • • •

The back of the Honda Starter Button: Using the flat side as a reference point, the three prongs you need to connect to the wires described above are indicated here:

Adam Wolf discovered after posting his instructions that you can plug an Interior Power Source Connector for a 3.5 inch floppy drive directly into the back of the Honda button. The power connector can be found at any computer repair shop. Here is a picture of the power connector indicating to which each prong the wires connect:

Below is a picture of the Floppy Drive Power Connector attached to the back of the Honda button:

Connect the three wires on the back of the button to the three wires (Relay, Lighter, E-Brake).

• • • • •

Reconnect the battery.

Test the button.

You should have lift off !!!

If all went well, put your car back together again.

Note: I wasn't sure if there was enough room behind the button for it to fit, so I cut a piece out of the black plastic case directly behind where the button would be inserted. There is no way to know if this was necessary, but it did no harm. Here's a picture:

Here it is installed.

Happy Motoring !!!

Please, let me know if you notice anything I need to improve or make clearer, etc.

Last, this mod worked perfectly for me, if something goes wrong on your install, please do not blame me.

Bob Caruthers

Canyon, Texas

Here are some excellent sites with a lot of helpful information for installing a Big Red Button:

• • • • •

Adam Wolf's BRB Site for an M1

Keith Tanner's BRB Site for an M1 and M2

Bill Keksz's BRB Site for an M1