Stara Planina, called also the Balkan, gave the name of
the entire peninsula. Unlike Rila and Pirin it has a more smooth forms
and no alpin character.
In it's western part are situated the rocks of Vratza, Lakatnik and other sediment rock formations - exellent limestone walls and crags.
In the central part, the rocks, good for climbing, are mainly magmatic - granites. The climbing areas are numerous but not very popular because of the fragile rock and poor safety in comaparison to other areas. Most of them are good for training, but there are some really big crags with more than 10 pitches.
This small area is situated at about 4 km to the north of the town of Karlovo in a beautiful river gorge. The routes are about 10, of 2-3 pitches, up to V+ wuth some aid movements.
2. Raj hut area
The hut can be attained by foot for about 3-4 hrs starting
from the town of Kalofer.
This is the most popular area in this region. The view is really spectacular. The highest Bulgariann waterfall is here - Rajskoto Praskalo, but unfortunately it does not freeze in winter. The rock is relatively good, some routes have good belays. They are from 1 to 5-6 pitches long, up to VI+ with many aid movements. There are plenty of routes but info is scarce.
3. Severen Dzhendem (The Northern Hell)
This is one of the most popular winter & ice climbing
areas. The rock is hard for any kind of safety gear (from pitons to friends),
so one must be very careful. Deadly accidents are most frequent here of
all Bulgaria. The rock routes are very long - up to 400 m.
For ice climbing, though, the possibilities are perfect. From some 6-8 m miniwaterfalls to th bigest one - 150 m.
Pleven hut is the nearest starting point.
It's a small training area of about 20 routes but the rock here is a little more fragile than it should be.
A good area near the town of Sliven. There are sport routes
as well as traditional ones here.