wiping out
Generally, you don't have any control over when or where or how...it just happens. but you can prepare yourself with a little knowledge so when you are faced with getting drilled it doesn't have to be all bad. If you ride waves, it's inevitable that you'll be put through the whitewater spin cycle and it's something every surfer or bodyboarder has to deal with. Here are some tips:
now this is good to know as i have wiped out in red flag surf conditions and i didn't do these and i was fucked up big time.(especialy tip 6)
1. Try holding your breath underwater in a swimming pool so when you're held under a wave you're more comfortable and not struggling for air. Practise by swimming as far underwater as you can in a pool.
2. Protect your head and spine. never dive in front of the wave as you fall off your boar...you can never be sure how shallow it really is. Try to land flat on your back or stomach.
3. Try to stay calm while underwater. thrashing about uses up valuable oxygen.
4. On reef breaks you can protect your head from hitting bottom by rolling into a ball. Always use your hands to feel the way and gauge the depth. Some riders actually grab hold of the bottom to help maintain their position and prevent themselves being washed back.
5. While underwater try to go as deep as you can to escape the white water turbulance. The deeper you go, the less like a washing machine spin cycle it will be. If yoyu open your eys while under water you can actually see how deep you need to go to escape the whitewater.
6. Avoid riding waves that are above your ability. know your limits and never surf alone.
