Point Reyes: A Wild and Windy Wonderland By Bob & Lynn Difley Much of Point Reyes today remains unchanged from the way it appeared to Drake’s crew. They probably wouldn’t notice that the peninsula, actually disconnected from the mainland by the San Andreas Fault, moved 21 feet to the north in the great 1906 San Francisco earthquake. The white cliffs and fog, as noted in the ship’s log, are still there and the spring winds still blow with as much predictability as the migrations of gray whales along the headlands. Pt. Reyes’ climate forms its defining characteristics. The combination of several weather-affecting factors produce predictable seasonal patterns: winter rains, spring winds, summer fog and drought, and an Indian summer fall. The summer fog produces a natural air-conditioning system, often clearing for mid-day sun, but seldom allowing the temperature to rise above the seventies. In fall the fog and wind disappear, changing into warm southery breezes, and the sun shines from sunrise to sunset. Since established as a National Seashore in 1962, the more than a hundred square miles of open grasslands, scrub covered hills, Douglas fir and Bishop pine forests, wave-scoured coves, and long stretches of deserted wind-swept beaches have drawn writers, artists, geologists, biologists, hikers, equestrians, and lovers of wild open spaces. Heat sufferers seeking to escape the hot inland areas migrate to the beaches, hiking trails, and picnic sites. Though large crowds are rare, Pt. Reyes closest RV campground, Olema Ranch, even with its hundreds of sites, fills up on summer and fall weekends. Olema Ranch’s convenient central location just outside the park’s boundary a mile from the Bear Valley Visitor Center is the logical base camp. Olema Ranch, however, does not rest on its location laurels alone. Its spacious shady forest and open grassy meadow campsites are among the most naturally pleasant of any private, state, or national park. Yet is has the amenities of a destination vacation resort as well: camp store with groceries, gifts, and espresso; laundromat; full hook-up, partial hook-up, and tent sites; US Post Office; children’s play areas; bike and kayak rentals; planned activities including a 4th of July parade, Saturday morning arts and crafts for kids, ice cream social, Friday and Saturday night story telling, Sunday morning buffet breakfast, and BBQs; propane and gasoline; video rentals; and a recreation hall. "Our location on the eastern side of Inverness Ridge not only affords us the benefit of the natural fog cooling system," says co-owner, Noreen Urquart, "but also provides summer sunshine nearly every day after the fog retreats to the coast during the day." Bluebirds to Bobcats What all this "weather" means to visitors to Pt. Reyes, is the thriving of one of the most exciting natural areas in Central California. The variety of habitats, from marshes, estuaries and ponds, to grasslands, coastal scrub, and rocky cliffs, attract many varieties of birds--over 400 species have been identified in the park and on adjacent waters. The headland, jutting ten miles out into the Pacific beyond the natural curve of the coastline, draws infrequent vagrants that often come ashore to rest, adding to Pt. Reyes bragging rights as one of the best bird watching spots in the nation. Native Black-tailed deer have thrived since the Miwoks depended on them for meat, clothing, tools, and twine. Nearly 500 white fallow deer and the white-spotted axis deer herd of about the same number also roam freely. The northern most area of Pt. Reyes, Tomales Point, is home to a Tule elk herd that can be seen on Tomales Point Trail from Pierce Point Ranch. Alert visitors also spot bobcats, opossums, cottontails and black-tailed hares, mountain beavers, porcupines, red and gray foxes, skunks, badgers, wild pigs, chipmunks, and squirrels. The extraordinary 10,000-mile migration of the gray whale between their winter calving grounds in Mexico and their breeding grounds in Alaska is the longest migration of any mammal. Some of the best close-up whale watching can be had from the historic lighthouse, as they often surface and blow close to shore when rounding the headland. Harbor seals, elephant seals, sea lions, dolphins, and occasionally a humpback whale can be spotted on the beaches and rocks or swimming in the near shore waters. Though many of the park’s attractions are available by paved roads, much of the park is accessible only by foot, mountain bike, or on horseback. With a map (available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center), you can pick from short trails to McClure’s Beach, Kehoe Beach and Marsh, the elephant seal overlook, and Limantour Spit. Longer trails lead to Sculptured Beach’s tidepools, 1407-foot Mount Wittenberg, and deserted beaches and coves. Many of these trails begin or form loops with the popular Bear Valley Trail from the Visitor Center. When visiting Point Reyes, a little planning will add enjoyment to your visit. Wear sturdy walking shoes, carry drinking water and a snack or lunch, and dress in layers to accomodate its changeable weather. Binoculars, a map, Visitor Guide, wildflower and bird lists from the visitor center, and a camera will complete your safari list. FOR MORE INFORMATION Bear Valley Visitor Center 415-663-1092 Olema Ranch Campground 10155 Highway 1 Olema, CA 94950 1-800-655-CAMP 415-663-8001 Web Site: 
Sir Francis Drake stepped ashore at what is now Point Reyes’ Drake’s Beach in 1579, the first European to leave footprints in the sands of California. He stayed six weeks, repairing a leak in the Golden Hind’s hull, and bestowing gifts upon and trading with the friendly Miwoks.
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