O'ahu (south shore)
temp - *chilly*
wind - strong
waves - yah, some nice ones
Eh, tanks to the n. shore with all those waves up, we down here get to enjoy
the 'leftovers' waves -- pretty much 'resin rider free'. ;-)
Today I went out not expecting much - could see the flumes of foam flying
off the waves - waves that were barely chest high at the best. Everyone was
quick to tell me I missed the best of the swell this week. Still, a week out
of the water is just dangerous. I was jonesin'.
By four o'clock there were 8 of us out there -- the loco local posse of
spongers, a couple of newcomer spongers, one brave board ... and then along
came three paipo boarders. Whew !! ... da paipo guys would just *fly* - flashing ahead of us on
those splintery lookin' plywood thingies. LOL ... good-fun guys ... lots of
laughs and sharing waves (tho, Süs don't play 'bumper sponge' with boards with
edges).
Finally, someone in the group started talking about the tiger shark that had
chased everyone in just a few weeks ago ('just a little one - four feet')
... he was hanging out by 'the rock' (my fav place). We all laughed ... but
... huddled closer. It was an intimate little surfing group ... lots of
party waves.
Süs
... glowing with laughter ..
