The hi-hat is shipped in three parts: the base, upper tube, and pull rod with clutch.

To assemble the base, first remove the rubber band from the radius rods as shown.

Then insert the bent ends into the holes in the hi-hat frame.

Extend the legs to form a stable tripod with the hi-hat frame just touching the floor - the hi-hat should feel solid without rocking.

Thread the pull rod securely into the receiver in the base section of the hi-hat stand.

Remove the clutch and slide the upper tube over the pull rod and into the base. Set the upper tube about halfway up.

Insert the pull rod through the hole in the heavier of the two hi-hat cymbals (sometimes marked: Bottom). Rest the cymbal, bell side down, on the felt washer on the seat cup.

Remove the metal lock nut and one of the felt washers from the clutch.

Slip the clutch through the hole in the top cymbal.

Replace the felt washer and metal lock nut.

Slip the clutch (with the top cymbal attached) onto the pull rod.

Space the cymbals about an inch apart then tighten the wing screw securely.

The clutch features two round lock nuts that adjust the amount of "play" of the top cymbal. To adjust, loosen the top lock nut and adjust the bottom lock nut until the desired "play" is achieved. Counter-turn the lock nuts to secure this setting.

In the event that the cymbals "air-lock" while playing, an adjustment screw under the bottom cymbal is provided. "Air-lock" happens when the cymbals trap air inside...you'll know when this happens... the cymbals don't make much sound when they clap together. To eliminate "air-lock" simply tilt the bottom cymbal with the adjustment screw and you're back in business.

Adjust the spring tension of the hi-hat to your preference. On most drum sets, this is done by a slider on the base section. Note that some hi-hat stands are not adjustable.

The legs on your hi-hat stand can be rotated to accommodate double pedals as shown above.

Not all hi-hats have swivel legs.