More silencer plans in the MODS, FAQs, and Q&A area
With a little care, you shouldn't need too much practice, and if you have
seen the B.O.A Concealer, you have a pretty good idea what you will end
up with. In fact, it is very similar to the finished product I put on
M-16s and CAR-15s about 10 years ago. Just think about your work, and
plan ahead!
You will need to get a section of PVC or ABS (preferably ABS, it's
already black,) about 6 inches long and 2-1/2 inches or so across. Also,
get some stiff plastic plates a few inches across, you will be using
these for the endplates for the 'can'. You will also want to get a good
grade of epoxy. Last, get some 'open cell' type foam, open weave gauze,
or some cheesecloth. You will be using this for the packing. make sure
it will not unravel, and is easy to clean in the event you break a ball
in the bbl.
Take your barrel and put in a lathe, turning a couple thousandths of
an inch off to get a smooth mounting surface. You want to take as
little as possible, but you do want a shiny metal surface. Usually, 1 or
2 thousandths of an inch will do, but it depends on the surface of your
bbl. If you are using stainless, you have a good start, but think about
an anno job when you are done. Stainless does not hide very well in the
bush! Once you are done, it's off to the drill press. Now would also be
a good time to 'crown' your bbl for accuracy (cut the muzzle end, on the
inside, just slightly. In essence, you are rounding off the inside edge
to help prevent damage to the muzzle bore for active players.)
In the space you turned, drill a series of small holes (about 1/8th inch
or so), evenly spaced in 3 or 4 rows around the bbl. Also, leave about
1/2 inch at either end of the area you turned on the lathe. After you
are done drilling, run a barrel hone through to deburr your drill job. Use
the finest grade of hone you have available, for a good finish. Don't
forget to lubricate the hone you are using, and keep it wet all the time
(air tool oil work good for this.) Do NOT let it sit in one place in the
bbl, but keep it going in and out evenly, and keep it running even when
you take it out of the barrel. Also, make sure you still have a good
finish on the outside of the bbl, so it will be easier to clean. Take
your bbl, your PVC pipe, and your micrometer or caliper over to a table
where you can sit.
Carefully mike the inside of the PVC and the outside of your barrel.
You will actually want to do this in several places, at both ends of
where you want to suppressor to go, to get consistent measurements and
ensure accuracy. The silencer will be holding itself together with a
friction fit, so make sure you take the time to get this right! Once you
get good measurements, lay them out on your end plates, and get ready to
cut. I have found out that with cuts like this, you want to give
yourself a little leeway and 'shave' them to size (cut you inside a
little small and your outside a little big), so you have room to adjust.
Remember - you can always cut a little more off, but you start over if
you cut too much!!! Keep testing the fit to make sure you get it right.
Once you have a good, tight fit on the barrel, put the ends in place and
fill the inside corners with epoxy to permanently bond them down (you
won't want to move them.) The best way to cut your endplates is to round
them off, then put them in the lathe, mounted on the barrel, to give you
more control and consistency in your cuts, because you want the tube to
stay on, yet be able to pull it apart for cleaning.
Once you get a good fit for the 'can' you should need a little effort to
put it on and take it off), get whatever packing you are going to use and
wrap it around the bbl, then hold it down while you put the can over it.
Including letting the epoxy cure (BEFORE you pack the silencer,) you
should need about a day and a half to get the job done. Anyone familiar
with machine tools and shop principles should be able to do this without
too much trouble (I made my first silencer for a .22 caliber rifle this
way in High School Metal Shop, and tested it out shooting with my
grandfather. It made no more noise that the action cycling. I have,
however, changed the design and components a little to make it impossible
for this unit and design to work on a REAL firearm.)
