Warp Quest is an abstract game system that depicts goal driven
Each player controls a collection of Units who are attempting to
be the first to reach an objective and bring it back to the start.
The units could be a party of adventuring archeologists hoping
to recover a lost artifact, a squadron of bombers attempting to
hit a military target and return home, a band of samurai seeking
to vanquish marauding bandits or a company of mixed creatures
seeking to destroy a piece of evil ornamental jewelry that has
the nasty habit of trying to control the minds of all free creatures.
The scenarios that use the Warp Quest engine will hold the details.
DICE & PIECES
· Six and ten sided dice are needed.
· Each player has a pawn to represent his or her group of Units
(adventuring party, fleet, etc.) on the board.
· Use a small trinket to represent the Objective.
· There is only one Objective.
· The board is a single winding path of connected spaces
with a Start Space and an End Space. The path should be 30 Spaces long.
· The First Space represents the start.
· Spaces 2-15 represents travel through the first scenario module.
· Spaces 16-29 represents travel through the second scenario module.
· The End Space is the final destination where the Objective is found.
· There are 2 decks for each scenario:
· The Module 1 Deck and the Module 2 Deck.
· Each deck has one of each card in its card list.
· There may also be an Aid deck.
· Each player controls a group of units called a Party.
The scenarios will detail the make up of the units in the party,
their attributes (Skills, Traits) and starting dispositions.
· Players take turns.
· Each turn consists of 3 phases:
1. Move Phase
2. Draw Phase
3. Challenge Phase
· Roll 1D6. Move your pawn that number of spaces towards the end space.
· You automatically stop when you enter the end space.
· If you are the first to land on the end space your party acquires the Objective.
· Once a party has acquired the Objective then all other
players may move their parties in either direction on the path.
· The party with the Objective must move towards the start space.
· The first pawn with the Objective to reach the start space wins the game.
· If you land on an empty space in spaces 2-15 draw a card from the Module 1 deck.
· If you land on an empty space in spaces 16-29 draw a card from the Module 2 deck.
· If you land on an opponent’s party do not draw a card.
· If a deck ever runs out, shuffle its discard and draw from it.
· Cards are of 2 types: Challenge cards & Aid cards.
· Place Aid cards in your hand.
· Challenge cards are encounters your party faces immediately in Challenge Phase.
Each challenge card lists one or more skills.
Your party will have to make a skill check vs each skill listed.
(The same skill may be listed twice or more, requiring that many skill checks)
A Skill check consists of a Skill roll and Challenge Roll:
Roll 1D10. This is the Skill roll.
Add the skill bonuses of your party members to the roll.
You may discard Aid cards for further bonuses to the skill roll.
Next roll 1D10. This is the Challenge roll.
Some Challenges have a DM (Difficulty Modifier). Add the DM to the Challenge Roll.
If the challenge roll is less than or equal to the skill roll you win the Skill check.
If the challenge roll is greater than the skill roll you fail the Challenge.
If you win all the Skill Checks, you win the Challenge.
The adventure card may say what happens if you win or lose the Challenge.
If the card does not give directions, then roll on the following table:
If you lose the challenge: Roll 1D6: (Challenge Loss Table)
1-4 Go back 1D6 spaces
5-6 Lose 1 Unit (Man, Ship, Hit Point, etc., depending on the Scenario)
If you Win the challenge gain 1 Experience Token.
You may spend an Experience Token to let you reroll a Move Roll or a Skill Roll.
MOVING ONTO AN OPPONENTS PAWN
· If you land on an opponent’s pawn there will be a fight.
· The current player rolls on the Skill List Table to determine
which skill will decide the confrontation.
· Both players make Skill Rolls. In case of a tie nothing happens.
· The loser rolls on the Challenge Loss Table.
· The winner takes the Artifact from the loser if the loser was
in possession of the Artifact.
PLAYING WITHOUT CARDS
At least in solo....
The mechanism is simple. Just make a list of all challenge cards
with exel (or whatever spreadsheat you prefere) and randomize the
list. Then print it out.
Now, when you face a chalenge, roll 1d10. If you get 7, you face
the seventh challenge on the list. When you have dealed with the
chalenge, mark it used. When you face another challenge, roll
the 1d10 again. If you get a 10, then you face the 10th UNMARKED
challenge on the list.
Just make sure, that there are 10 more challenges in the list
than there are spaces on the game board.
The challenges that top the list happen more often than those at
the bottom of the list. This property can be used without
randomizing by the game designer.
Hope you get what I mean.
Another way of doing this, though it would introduce more
instances of a thing/event goes something like this.
Make a table of all the cards in a deck, number them.
-Each card now as a unique number (cardnumber)
-Take the Number of Cards in the list, divide that number by 100.
-Each card is then given a Percentile Number equal to
When you are asked to draw a card roll a percentile (2d10 the
first die being 10's the second die being 1's or use the 2d6
method descibe in countermoves issue 2) and consult the card table
Say you have a deck of 7 card
you would get card 1 on a percentile rool of 14 or less
card 2 15 thru 28
card 3 29 thru 42
* By Zak:
I use a simple trick to test some of the Lloyd productions before
creating the real cards: i set for each card a number and then i
put on a cup a number of numerical markers correspoing to the
card # - i own a lot of boardgames so i have a full collection of
numerical markers but in any case is very easy to create a
generic set of such a counter.
With this mechanism you can have the random distribution of the
deck (one instance of every card - or more if needed) and you
don't need the printed card since you simply index the card list
with the numbers in your "hand". Nothing special but it works.