| MINI-RAMP |
|
|
|
6' tall, 8' transitions, 12' flat bottom. Braces centered 8" on transitions. Braces centered 1' on flat & decks. 4' roll-out decks. Materials for railing, stairs ladders not included in this list |
| 2x4" (8') |
|
|
|
|
| 2x6' (8') |
|
|
|
|
| 4x4' (6') |
|
|
|
|
| Plywood - 3/8" |
|
|
|
|
| Plywood - 5/8" |
|
|
|
|
| Masonite |
|
|
|
|
| Nails (16dd) |
|
|
|
|
| Screws (#2 drywall] |
|
|
|
|
| Coping (3" O.D.) |
|
|
|
| HALFPIPE |
|
|
|
11' tall, 10' transitions, 16' flat. Braces centered 8" on transitions. Braces centered 1' on flat & decks. 4' roll-out decks. Materials for railing, stairs ladders not included in this list |
| 2x4" (8') |
|
|
|
|
| 2x6' (8') |
|
|
|
|
| 4x4' (6') |
|
|
|
|
| Plywood - 3/8" |
|
|
|
|
| Plywood - 5/8" |
|
|
|
|
| Masonite |
|
|
|
|
| Nails (16dd) |
|
|
|
|
| Screws (#2 drywall] |
|
|
|
|
| Coping (3" O.D.) |
|
|
|
| BOWL | 12'x8', 6' tall, 8' transitions, 12' flat bottom, 8' corner radius with four corners. Braces centered 8" on transitions. Braces centered 1' on flat. Railing, stairs, ladders not included in this list. | |
| 2x4" (8') |
|
|
| 2x6' (8') |
|
|
| 4x4' (6') |
|
|
| Plywood - 3/8" |
|
|
| Plywood - 5/8" |
|
|
| Plywood - 1/4" |
|
|
| Masonite |
|
|
| Nails 8-10 penny |
|
|
| Nails (16dd) |
|
|
| Screws |
|
|
| Curved Coping |
|
|
| Joist Hangers |
| QUATER-PIPE | 4' wide, 4' tall, 10' transitions | |
| 2x4" (8') |
|
|
| Plywood - 3/8" |
|
|
| Plywood - 5/8" |
|
|
| Nails (16dd) |
|
| TOOL LIST | |
| Skilsaw with metal and wood blades | Tape measures |
| Cat's paw | Extension cords |
| Pencils | Chalk line/string |
| Long level | Framing square |
| Speed square | Cooler |
| Radio | Line level |
| Drill bits | Jil saw |
| Eye protection | Something to dring |
| Adjustable square | #2 Phillips drill bits |
| Long Phillips #2 bit to attach copping (or break an old cheap screwdriver) | Extra chalk |
| Rewersible drills | Ramp plans |
| Hammers | Lots of able body hands |
This is a big undertaking so don't be embarrassed about asking for help. Ramps are popping up at an amazing rate so chances are at least one ramp is already being ridden in your neighborhood. Check out a nearby ramp to see what kind of problems the owners have had and get some ideas for things to do with
your own ramp. Don't be too proud to ask Dad or some other adult for help. Most men who think they're accomplished carpenters will usually jump at the chance to pound nails.
Also, if Dad helps you, rather than letting the project end up half-assed, he'll probably do all he can to make it turn out good. Who knows, if he really gets into it he might float a few bucks. When all the work is done he might even appreciate having this big wooden monster sitting in his backyard.
Before you do anything you must first understand what
your limitations are and how they will affect the ramp you are going to
build.
Warehouses, garages and the like are good sites because they are level, indoor and away from the elements (cops and neighbors). If you plan to build your ramp on rented property or your parents' property, it's a good idea to ask first, since the owner may not allow any construction. Next, you'd better think about your neighbors. If you have a good relationship with them, things will probably be a lot easier However, most people still don't understand skateboarding. Try to talk things over with your neighbors before you build. If they are opposed to the ramp, set up a skating schedule or work out some kind of deal, labor-based or monetary. Remember that a neighbor's complaints could result in the demolition of your ramp.
You might want to approach your city or town officials about available public lands or park and recreation facilities. It is becoming more common for local governments to take interest in the skateboarder's plight and build public ramps. Check into this option.
In most cities, building ordinances require that the structure
cover no more than a certain percentage of your yard (such as 30% of the
available open space). In many cases, making your ramp portable (or at
least appearing to be so) will help bypass many of the requirements, such
as building permits, etc. Most city codes specify that no backyard structure
can be higher than the highest point of the house. Check into it. Before
you build, survey the area carefully so you can maximize your space. Also
consider windows and valuable property such as sides of buildings, planter
boxes, gardens or whatever is special to the land owner. Once your ramp
is done you won't want to think about anything but the next session-so
make sure your facts are straight before you follow through with the construction.
The materials you are able to get your hands on will basically tell you what kind of ramp you'll soon be ripping. Unless you have 20 or 30 sheets of plywood and a large stack of 2x4"s lying around, you will probably be spending over $2,000 for your basic 16' wide, 9' radius transition halfpipe. Even though 2x4"s do grow on trees, wood's not cheap. There are ways of getting wood for free, however Check your own backyard or garage for wood and ask friends or neighbors if they have any. Also, hang around local construction sites and beg for cut-off ends and various scraps. Every little bit gets you one step closer.
Ripping off wood or shopping at "the midnight lumber store" can get you busted. We've heard some real nightmares about amped young rampers being caught with a load and getting to see the legal system work first hand. The amount of lumber you'll need for your ramp will probably constitute grand theft in most law books, so watch it. Don't get stopped before you've even started.
Wood is expensive if you have to buy it outright, but it's plentiful enough that you can find a bargain if you shop around. Check the phone book for salvage yards that deal in used wood. Most of the time they'll have all you need at a fraction of the cost. You may have to pull a few nails, but it's worth it. When dealing with these guys try to bargain for your final price.
Once you have assembled all you can feasibly scrounge, it's time to start putting it together.
The hard part is over now; you know your limits and you must now decide what type of ramp you're going to build. You may find that because of one thing or another you are limited to building a smaller ramp or quarter-pipe rather than a full-blown halfpipe. Don't be discouraged.Use what you can and ride what you've got; real skaters ignore limitations.
When you've got your plan drawn up, you're ready to level
the ground and compile a list of the wood you'll need: plywood templates
and 2x4" cross braces first; plywood and Masonite surface material and
wood for decks and stairs later. You have to decide whether your skating
surface will be plywood, Masonite or steel. Also, don't forget the nails
and/or screws (two inch #2 drywall screws seem to work the best). Whether
to use nails or screws on the first layer of ply is a matter of personal
preference, but the skating surface should be screwed down for easy replacement
of plys. Now round up your friends who are going to be skating when it's
done. Hopefully they have positive attitudes about helping all the way
through to the finish. You also need tools (check the tools list on page
2). If you're lucky, you know a carpenter. A good carpenter should be able
to build the basics of your ramp, but they probably aren't familiar with
the details, so work with them. Try to explain what a good ramp looks and
feels like.
Besides protecting your ramp, it is required by law in some areas that all wooden structures to be at least 1' above ground. An easier, cheaper and less permanent way to level your foundation surface is to use 2x6" beams the length of the ramp, leveled with shims made of scrap wood. Make sure this is level before you continue. A slight tilt at this point can easily screw things up in the end.
This part of the ramp will be completely covered up so make sure that it is solid before you move onto the next step.
Use 2x4"s for beams and joists. Lay these in a rectangular box the size of the ramp. In our case it would be 16' of flat bottom plus two 9' radius transitions and two 4' rollout decks-42'long and 24' wide. Brace this structure with 2x4"s spaced 16" apart under the flat section.
Traditional let-in bracing should be used here; ask a carpenter how it should be done. Place the 2x4" joists in the frame with the 2" side facing up and sitting flush with the top of the
2x4" beams. Secure the joists with framing nails or two
l6dd nails in each end, whichever you prefer. The joists will act as a
solid base for connecting the plywood to the flat bottom section. The braces
under the plywood pieces should be positioned such that the plywood can
be fastened lengthwise along them.
We chose a 9' radius to a 10' high wall for a fluid yet thrustable transition with 1' of "true" vert. For larger transitions you should plan on a higher wall to accommodate some vertical. To cut out 9' transitions for your ramp you will need: a sabre saw, a piece of string at least
10 1/2' long, a pencil and a nail. Make a large compass
by tying one end of the string to the nail and the other end to the pencil
at exactly the 9-foot mark. A thin piece of plywood may be used instead
of string; it will give you a truer arc for your transition template guide.
Square up a whole 4x8" sheet of 5/8" plywood and a plywood scrap large
enough to create your transition. Trace your arc over both pieces. (See
figure 1)
Using a sabre saw, cut out the template, being careful
to stay right on your pencil line.
This is where the smoothness of the transition begins.
To save time, use the first transition that you've cut as a guide to trace
the other pieces. To make more portable transitions, overlap two sheets
of plywood by 3h " and trace your arc so it intersects the corner created
by the two pieces. Cut out your template, then cut a 45" angle from the
corner to the edge of the overlapping sheet and cut straight across the
seam. Use two short 2x6"s and a 2x4" to join the two pieces together at
the angled cut. (See figure 2) For the dimensions we're following, you'll
need eight templates total (four for each side).
(For a portable structure you'll need six for each side
to create three separate 8' wide sections.) Line the templates up and trim
any inconsistencies. Measure and mark them for cross brace location (see
bracing section for measurements). Mark for bracing every 6" in the impact
zone (the lower 2/3 of the transition) and every to 8" or 10" on the upper
third of the transition and the vert. It's very important to figure out
where the seams of your first layer of ply will fall (every two feet) and
double up on your braces at those points. Cut notches out of the backs
of the top templates for the decks. If you take the time to make these
cuts and marks when all the templates are together you can better insure
uniformity in your ramp.
Steel pole coping is the best all around coping available. It may be used on large vertical ramps, street ramps and is perfect for spine ramps. Steel pipe never breaks, and if you put it down good and tight the first time you'll find that you never have to touch or fool with it again.
To attach steel pole coping, drill 1/4" feeder holes at both ends and six to eight feet apart on the top side of the pipe. The feeder holes allow a screwdriver head to fit inside. Drill smaller holes (1/8") opposite the larger ones. Put your pipe in place so the screw will angle into the meat of the corner Place a wood screw through the large hole and into the smaller hole and twist it on home.
PVC plastic piping is plentiful, cheap and easy to work with. On the other hand, it's brittle (especially in cold weather) and can't withstand as much impact as steel or pool cope. If you choose PVC, either one of the following application methods is fine. Use a band saw to cut about one-third of the circumference of the pipe off. Slide the gap in the pipe over the lip, drill holes about every two to three feet and attach it with wood screws. Or, use the whole PVC pipe with a wooden dowel inside. Use the feeder hole method to attach it.
