Note To My Puppy Buyers: Eagle Pack was acquired by Berwind Industries in 2007. Wellness was acquired by Berwind in 2008 and the two companies merged into a single entity called WellPet LLC. Regrettably, due to changes in ownership, leadership, management, style of management, removal of key personnel, stopping overseas distribution of Eagle, and deep philosophical differences, I can no longer endorse nor feed the Eagle Pet Food product line.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I highly recommend alternating at least three of the below foods, since it has been established that, no matter how good a dry food may be, it cannot have everything your dog needs on a long term basis. However, alternate feeding of three or four high quality foods has proven to be of great benefit since each different food could have something in it that the other foods might not have. I also recommend adding a tablespoon of plain nonfat yogurt to the kibble twice weekly; and canned fish (mackeral or sardines) packed in water twice weekly (yogurt & fish preferably NOT on the same day). Salmon oil is a definite plus; and adding raw chicken quarters or raw turkey necks in place of one meal 2 or 3 times a week will ensure your dog has beautifully clean teeth his or her entire life. Small amounts of leftover cooked green and yellow vegetables are also a good idea.
Blue Ridge Beef
1. Life's Abundance Premium Health Food
This is probably without a doubt the best kibble on the market today. You will probably look at the price and say it's too much, but no supplementation is required with this food. You save on omega supplements, vitamin supplements, probiotics and digestive enzymes. Even on a fixed income, this food is more cost effective for me than all the others I have listed, especially on their autoship program.
Chicken Meal, Ground Brown Rice, Oat Groats, Chicken Fat (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Dried Beet Pulp, Brewers Dried Yeast, Flaxseed Meal, Natural Flavors, Dried Egg Product, Catfish Meal, Potassium Chloride, Salt, L-Lysine, Canola Oil, DL-Methionine, Calcium Carbonate, Monosodium Phosphate, Dried Carrots, Dried Celery, Dried Beets, Dried Parsley, Dried Lettuce, Dried Watercress, Dried Blueberries, Dried Broccoli, Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus casei Fermentation Product, Dried Bifidobacterium thermophilum Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium Fermentation Product, Pomegranate Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin E Supplement, Inositol, Niacin Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate, Riboflavin Supplement, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Citric Acid, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Folic Acid, Zinc Proteinate, Zinc Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Manganese Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Proteinate, Selenium Yeast, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide. Contains a source of live (viable), naturally occurring microorganisms.
4Health Puppy Formula is ideal for large breed puppies.
Lamb & Rice Formula for Adult Dogs is ideal for adult dogs who are sensitive to chicken or who prefer the taste of lamb.
Chicken & Rice Formula for Adult Dogs.
Large Breed Formula for Adult Dogs.
This is a new food that came out in 2009 ... I have been feeding my dogs on it since Oct 2009 and am very pleased with it. Check out the website and you will see that a lot of foods that charge a lot more don't have nearly the quality of ingredients this food has. It is definitely my second recommendation for the best foods to feed your Anatolian!!
This is a favorite among a large number of Anatolian Breeders because it provides good nutrition (human grade food), most dogs will eat it on a long term basis, and it is available at most Feed & Seed stores and Tractor Supply outlets.
-- High quality protein made with real cage free chicken; tailored for a large breed dog with optimal amino acid profile for LEAN, STRONG MUSCLES
-- Premium ingredients with added vitamins & minerals; superfoods for antioxidants; fatty acids for skin & coat; levels of glucosamine & Chondroitin
-- Nutrient rich and HIGHLY digestible with PROPRIETARY PROBIOTICS that survive and thrive in the GI tract
-- Family owned & run, MADE in the USA choosing ingredients from TRUSTED, SUSTAINABLE sources around the world; Call with questions 800-442-0402
-- No corn, wheat, filler; NO ARTIFICIAL flavors, colors, or preservatives; Made with the most scientifically advanced food safety protocols.Caloric Content: 3,518 kcal/kg, 329 kcal/cup
INGREDIENTS: Chicken, chicken meal, whole grain brown rice, cracked pearled barley, peas, ground white rice, rice bran, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), dried beet pulp, egg product, natural flavor, flaxseed, potassium chloride, salt, DL-methionine, choline chloride, taurine, glucosamine hydrochloride, dried chicory root, L-Carnitine, kale, chia seed, pumpkin, blueberries, oranges, quinoa, dried kelp, coconut, spinach, carrots, papaya, yucca schidigera extract, dried Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation product, dried Bacillus subtilis fermentation product, dried Lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation product, dried Enterococcus faecium fermentation product, dried Bifidobacterium animalis fermentation product, vitamin E supplement, beta carotene, chondroitin sulfate, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate (vitamin B1), manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin D supplement, folic acid.
Contains a source of live (viable), naturally occurring microorganisms.
Canidae is usually found in the better pet stores.
Go to https://www.canidae.com or call Customer Service (M-F 8am- 4pm PST) 800-398-1600 or 909-599-5190.
DOG FOOD ADVISOR
AMOUNTS TO FEED ANATOLIAN PUPPIES
Use this guideline to help prevent growth diseases. The most sensitive time for growth problems is from 3-6 months of age.
2 months 2/3 cup THREE times per day
3 months 1-1/2 cups TWICE a day or 3 cups split into three meals
4 months 2 cups TWICE a day or 4 cups split into three meals
5 months 2-1/2 cups TWICE a day
6 months 2-3/4 cups TWICE a day
Always keep fresh water at hand for your dog - should be changed daily
Two raw chicken thighs or one chicken quarter can be given in place of one meal 2-4 times a week.
SANDIE'S VITAMIN SLURRY (for pups over 6 months old)
-- Use a Stainless steel bowl.
-- 1 cup cold water
-- 1,000mg tablet of Ester-C (soak in water until it dissolves) (get at any Pharmacy or WalMart)
-- 1 tablespoon ProBios probiotic powder (Tractor Supply carries this)
-- 9 drops grapefruit seed extract (Order online here)
USE WHISK TO MIX THOROUGHLY.
-- 12 squirts of Grizzly Salmon Oil (order online here)
-- 8oz ground raw Turkey (break up until completely mixed)
For internal parasite control, you can also add 1½ tablespoon of Diatomaceous Earth to this mixture every other mix.
For older dogs, DE is also good for arthritis and bone density ... add 2 tablespoons of DE to this mixture each time. You should ladle 1/3 cup over kibble once each day. Your dog will love you for it.
This formula is good for one Anatolian Shepherd Dog for three days. If you would like the formula for multiple dogs, please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
A Lean Machine - Do not let your puppy get too heavy during the growth stages. They should be well covered, but lean until their bones set at 2 years. Ribs should be slightly visible from 3-6 months; and a little more visible from 6-18 months.
No forced exercise, jogging or road-work, until the dogs are 2 years old and the bones are set. Puppies are just that until at least 18 months of age, when dealing with the giant breeds. They are fragile and need supervised free exercise in a fenced in area or daily walks with you. The key is moderation and common sense in raising these special babies. The amount of food calories is directly related to the amount of exercise the animal gets per day.
Crates - Your puppy should not be crated more than 2 hours at any time during the course of a day, and less is better. They should have a very large crate, one that an adult male can stand up and turn around in. This is their den, and never punish and then put them in a crate; it should be their safe place. Their crate should be in a place where there is family activity so they don't feel they are being punished.
You must keep this in mind when feeding: The amount of calories consumed and the amount burned off in the course of a day is directly related to the amount you need to feed. For strong bones they need normal moderate exercise in order to develop the proper muscle to support the bone.
NO FREE CHOICE FEEDING (leaving food down all the time) or I will take your first born child! Some dogs over consume, some pick all day long and don't ever get hungry enough to consume the proper amount of nutrition necessary.
Raised Dishes - Elevate your dog's food and water as they grow - it is just more comfortable for them and no, it does NOT cause bloat. Stress is the trigger for bloat, and an imbalance in the pH of the gut, due to stress and/or overuse of antibiotics without replenishing the gut with beneficial bacteria (Probiotics) can be one of the primary causes of bloat.
NO CALCIUM (MINERALS) OR VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS or I will break your fingers. The only exception to this rule is:
Probiotics (friendly bacteria/digestive enzymes), like in "Nzymes Granules" along with "Nzymes Fortified BAC~PAK Plus", - because this replaces what is missing in processed foods. You can read more about this wonderful product at http://www.nzymes.com. I highly recommend both these products to keep your Anatolian healthy and happy for a lot of years!
Vitamin C (250mg Ester-C to 6 months old, then 500mg - use Ester-C ONLY), because dogs do not graze like in the wild and need some veggies
These items listed above only enhance the diet, and will not upset the balance of the diet.
Sedatives & anesthesia: This breed was developed thousands of years ago from a cross between the Turkish sighthound and a Molosser-type dog. But if your puppy has a system like the sighthound side of the pedigree, they will be sensitive to many things ... make sure your veterinarian knows to watch sedatives and anesthesia carefully.
Treats: Watch the amount of "treats" you give your puppy, the calories add up. Break the Milkbone into several pieces instead of feeding 5 a day. Use carrots, a slice of apple, or a couple of berries as treats. This will not disrupt the balance of the diet nor add too many calories to the diet, which is important for growing pups.
Feeding Time: Allow your puppy a safe, nonstressful environment to eat in. Allow 15-30 minutes -- if they do not eat in that time, remove the food and throw it out. They will not starve, do not try to beg them to eat. You are developing a bad habit if you entice them into eating. Do not let them linger or be distracted. Monitoring their food this way is an excellent way of telling when they are not feeling well. Young females will often go off their feed during hormonal changes and likewise young males from 12-24 months. They are often lean -- this is because their body has not fully developed yet and they have very long legs. They are the equivalent to a teenager, so be patient. They will not reach their full growth until 2.5-3 years of age (females) or 3-4 years of age (males).
FORCE FEEDING IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!! YOU ARE ASKING FOR BLOAT/TORSION BECAUSE THE FOOD THAT IS CONSUMED, IS DONE SO WITHOUT THE BENEFIT OF ADEQUATE AMOUNTS OF HYDROCHLORIC ACID AVAILABLE TO THE GUT, WHICH WOULD NORMALLY BE GENERATED WHEN AN ANIMAL EATS ON THEIR OWN.
Force feeding is extremely stressful on the animal, and does not allow for hydrochloric acid/digestive juices to kick in and digest food properly. Remember "stress" is the trigger for bloat and force feeding a dog means you are stressing this animal OR the animal is already stressed and, therefore, it does not want to eat. No matter what the situation, this is the right condition for bloat. Next time you force feed a dog, think how it would feel if you were not hungry, and someone stood there and shoved food down your throat.
NEVER SOAK or microwave dog food, soaking a food does not prevent bloat, that is a myth and not based in any science. Soaking/cooking this destroys the nutrients and probiotics sprayed on or added to kibble and destroying these can cause a nutritional imbalance, suppressed immune systems and actually serious deficiencies in a diet.
Feed and Relax: Do not allow lots of running and exercise for at least 1 hour after a meal. This will aid in digestion. This has nothing to do with bloat. It is just common sense, you would not eat a big meal then go out and jog!! That would feel awful. Well the same for your dog. Also, young growing puppies should not be running up and down a full flight of steps several times a day. This is very hard on their shoulder joints and can cause serious injury.
Water: Always keep lots of fresh water available outside and inside so the animal knows there is water around, and is less apt to over-consume being worried it won't be there at some point. Some breeders withhold water to house break a dog. This is cruel and ignorant. It sets up bad drinking habits (gorging) and bladder infections, potential dehydration which can cause muscle cramping. (and what is the largest muscle in the body? - the heart). I know of a whole litter of 5 week old puppies who died because the breeder was trying to keep their area clean and presentable for buyers, so she kept withholding their water. How would you like to not be able to get a drink when you wanted one?
Again use common sense. If they are playing hard and start drinking, monitor them; tell them "hey, take it easy," just a little and when they have calmed down they can have a little more ... just like a horse, you don't water a horse until it has cooled down. I don't leave water in a crate with a puppy during the nighttime when they are sleeping, they always spill it. But during the day they have it available all the time, clean fresh non-slobber water.
NO PERFORMANCE FOODS, as most are high in calories and promote accelerated growth. It is important these dogs grow slow and even, so the bone develops at the same rate as the muscle. If not they may have growth deformities and early arthritis. By the same token NO LOW PROTEIN (less than 20%) FOODS, they are not high enough in calories.
Toys/Bedding/Playtime: You have to think like a dog - which things are you more apt to get into trouble with here! I use fleece beds for my crates, never use carpet, they are attracted to the glue and a continuous loop carpet can cause their bowels to strangle if they eat it. No cedar, pine bedding it causes allergies. No detergent, Carpet Fresh, Lysol, fabric softener or anything that is a pine derivative. You are asking for allergies and respiratory problems. Wash bedding in a mild solution of bleach, it will dissipate when dry, leaving no residue. Same with cleaning crates, make sure you are well vented!! Use only dog shampoo, nothing else for a bath. No rawhide, pig ears, cow hooves, string toys or booda bones and NO TENNIS BALLS! Keep safe toys around so they are not eating furniture and your best shoes.
The pet toy industry is not regulated, so there are many things out there available to pets that are a serious health hazard. For safe large to giant breed toys I suggest you go to Doglogic.com for recommendations.
Why No Rawhide?
First, the majority are processed with lye, something your dog does not need in his/her stomach. Also, they are not digestible and can lay in the stomach or intestines and not pass through, causing an obstruction or causing pathogenic bacteria to grow. Something we do not need with animals that are prone to bloat and gastric torsion is encouraging pathogenic (bad) bacteria to develop in the gut. They are also a very serious choking hazard. So to be on the safe side, for nutritional and safety reasons, I suggest something other than rawhide chewies.
Why No pig ears/snouts/cow snouts and cow hooves?
There are two reasons for not using these, Salmonella (bad bacteria) and the fact that the ears/snouts will splinter and can puncture an intestine and the same goes for cow hooves. Frequently, vets are removing them because they cause an obstruction.