Bonneville Aluminum Ignition Bracket
DISCLAIMER: IT IS POSSIBLE THAT YOU CAN BREAK THE DRIVER'S SIDE MOUNT WITH THIS SETUP, SINCE THE PASSENGER SIDE MOUNT IS NOT USED! I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT THIS MAY CAUSE.
- (1) - M10-1.5 x 30mm Bolt
- (1) - M10-1.5 x 40mm Bolt
- (1) - M10-1.5 x 50mm Bolt
- (1) - M10-1.5 x 70mm Bolt
- (1) - M12 x 7/8" long metal spacer
- 2000 Model year and up Ignition Coil Bracket (No P/N yet)
- 2000 Model year and up Tensioner and Idler Bracket (No P/N yet)
- Supercharger belt 6" longer than usually required
Changing to this setup has two primary advantages:
Less weight. This is an aluminum bracket and it allows you to get rid of the passenger side dogbone and upper radiator mount. I weighed the two setups and noticed an 11 Lbs difference. While 11 Lbs doesn't sound like alot, that is .011 seconds faster every time...and that may mean the difference between a new personal best or not.
More belt surface on the blower pulley. It goes without saying how critical this can be, especially with sub-3.0" pulleys. See pics below for before and after belt wrap.
Let's Get Started!!!
1. Begin by picking up all required parts at your local hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...) and your local Autozone (for Gatorback belt).
2. Now for the work...I highly recommend doing this on at least a semi-cold motor since the stock iron bracket holds alot of heat. AS ALWAYS, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY BEFORE PERFORMING ANY WORK!!!
3. Remove the supercharger belt, spark plug wires, and the plug for the ignition (7mm bolt).
4. Unbolt the passenger side dogbone, upper radiator mount, and stock ignition bracket. You must remove the stock tensioner (13mm nut) and the black alternator bracket (12mm nut and 15mm bolt) before removing the stock coil bracket.
5. Time to put everything back together! The stock bolts from the Grand Prix setup will not work with the Bonneville setup, so it's time to break out the new hardware you bought. We'll start with the alternator bracket.
6. Since the new bracket does not add the required space from the motor for the bracket to line up properly, take the M12 x 7/8" metal spacer and put it between the motor and the alternator bracket and tighten down the 15mm bolt originally used.
7. Next, go ahead and and bolt the tensioner and idle pulley bracket. Use the M10-1.5 x 50mm bolt in the location where the ground wire is supposed to go. Verify that this bolt is tight and that the ground is making good contact! Use the M10-1.5 x 70mm bolt in the location (in the head) where the stud for the tensioner used to be.
8. Almost done! Now go ahead and bolt the new ignition bracket in place. Use the 10M-1.5 x 40mm to bolt the ignition bracket to the tensioner/idler bracket and the 10M-1.5 x 30mm to bolt the ignition bracket to the head (this hole wasn't used before, so make sure that it is good and clean before threading into it).
9. Now that the new aluminum bracket is in place, it's time run the belt. I determined that with this setup, you will need a supercharger belt that is 6" longer than one used on the typical Grand Prix setup. I used to have a Gatorback 65" belt for my 3.0" pulley (no intercooler), and I bought a 71" Gatorback that fits perfectly...nice and tight. I would ask the sales rep at your local parts store if you can test fit the belt before buying it, just to save everyone trouble.
10. OK, put the spark plug wires back on and reconnect the battery and you should be ready to rock! I would recommend AT LEAST a poly-motor mount insert on the remaining driver's side mount. Otherwise you are bound to tear up the stock insert pretty quickly. I have a ZZP Billet Dogbone and Billet Solid Upper Radiator mount in place to help keep everything good and solid. A note of caution, the complete solid ZZP mount setup DOES induce a decent amount of vibration into the car at idle and decelleration, and (just like the Bonneville bracket) is DEFINATELY not a mod for everyone.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me!