Here from left to right:
The oil flinger, LOSE IT! That part is useless in the engine; the part is designed in "theory" to keep the oil in the engine thrown back at the timing chain. There is ample oiling of the timing chain without this part. However, what this part will do for you is to aid in the loosening of the crankshaft damper. Think of it as putting a flat washer in-between two mating surfaces that require torque to hold the parts in place. What this part does is to compress slightly and provides a way for the inertia of the damper to create a stress area that will grind itself open. The part will end up in the bottom of your oil pan in flakes. If your damper does come lose, the part will disintegrate and end up making its way through your oiling system, no Fram filter will keep the particulates from reaching your bearings, and all of the places you REALLY don't want them to go.
Second to left:
This is the stock crank bolt and washer utilized in all of the Nissan L series engines. I have taken pictures of the washer and you will notice that the washer is not flat on the crankshaft/damper mating surface. This picture is difficult to see the bend in the washer. When the Nissan FSM indicates a specific torque setting for the bolt, I recommend that you DONT exceed this torque specification, or you will end up bending the washer. What you will do in effect is to clamp the washer and torque it to the end of the crankshaft snout. The damper, which is the primary issue for the bolt and washer in the first place, will have little or no torque applied to the damper. You will end up destroying the crankshaft keyway, the damper and the woodruff key. Then the bolt will loosen up and you will lose your damper if not caught in the early stages.
Third from the left:
This is the NISMO Euro damper bolt and washer kit. This bolt and washer will cost you 40.00 dollars. The bolt and washer will work for the standard damper, however, you will need to check the clearance of the step locator to ensure it doesn't again torque the washer and not apply that torque to the damper mating surface. The bolt will thread approximately 5-6 threads into the crankshaft. The part will torque to specifications, but you will run the risk of pulling the threads if you torque the bolt to tight. I would not recommend anything over 130 foot pounds, which is over the stock maximum torque specifications, especially if you have to install and remove the damper a number of times.
Here is the setup I have developed. This utilizes a Nissan bolt PART# 12309-29500 bolt. You can see it is long enough to thread into the crankshaft a more then an ample amount. In fact, the bolt is to long, the bolt will need to be machined and shortened by about .250" when utilized with the Volvo washer. The bolt should be lengthened to screw into the crankshaft approximately the width of the bolt minumium or 125% times the width of the bolt, or 16mm plus 4mm. This setup will enable you to torque the bolt and washer to 150psi. I will say this: Make SURE the bolt doesn't bottom out in the threads of the crank. If it does, you are NOT going to like the results, and if you dont end up stripping the threads in the crank, get yourself a 16mm X 1.25 pitch tap to dress up the threads. I wonder how I know this??? never mind.
The washer is a Volvo B230 damper bolt, part# 1336822 off of a 1989 740 Volvo. I have looked at a number of different volvo cars, and as long as you stay with the B200/B230 four cylinder engines, you will have the same part. You will need to machine the O.D of the washer to 1,730" and that will do just fine for all Nissan l series engines. This setup is the ideal configuration for ANY L engine configuration, yes EVEN the stroker that everyone thinks for some reason has more problems holding this part to the crank. Really there is NO difference between any of the engines in this respect, but it sounds good to guys that don't understand cintrifugal force, and rotating mass.
I recommend using "RED" lock tight on this part as it will aid in lube to the threads when torquing the bolt and secure the threads when it dries.
Here is a comparison of the stock Nissan bolt to an ARP bolt. Looking at the two parts, one can easily see the advantages of the Nissan part over the ARP part. The Nissan bolt has a flare-mating surface that promotes a self-locking characteristic. The flare-mating surface also has a significant holding surface as compared to the ARP part. I have torqued the Nissan art to 160 foot-pounds with no ill effects. Nissan L series engines NOT having a counter balanced crankshaft have a tendency to vibrate the flywheel bolt lose, as you can imagine, this would have disastrous effects on the engine and tranny. What do you think Norm? I will say one thing, having a flywheel come lose, and clutch assembly, at best will damage the tranny, at worst the flywheel will saw through the body of the car and who knows where else. Don Garlets lost part of his foot because of a flywheel coming lose. I myself donít want to experience that. The ARP part has little for a mounting and securing base to the part. This bolt may be used on a steel flywheel, but an aluminum part will not work to well. Because of the mating surface area, the ARP part will have a tendency to gall or tear the flywheel mating surface, or worse the bolt. Keep in mind, ARP has no specifications that I know of for application other then stock, so if you use these parts on your Nissan and they create a failure, consider yourself out of luck. You will get NOWHERE with ARP because it is not the recommended, or listed use of the bolt in the first place. Just keep that in mind guys.
Here is a side profile of the stock nissan bolts. You can see there are some differences in the bolts. The center bolt has been modified on the head of the bolt. Some people have had, myself included, had problems with the bolt hitting the clutch disc hub assembley, specifically in the spring area. The fix for this problem is to machine off the step on the top of the bolt. You can see the actual bolt head has a lip that really does nothing for the bolt and really doesn't do anything to aid in torqueing the bolt down as it is rounded.
Here is the top view of the stock and machined part. You can see just enough of the top was machined to just kiss the lettering of the bolt, but not really cut into the bolt head to make it any weaker at all. Note the bolt on the left, you can see one of the two hash marks in the lip,they are a little hard to see, I could not get a really good angle on the hash marks, courtesy of CenterForce PLUG and PRAY clutch assemblies built and sold to the public at large LOL.
This was my FIRST experience with the CenterForce product, and I was not to impressed. I sent the clutch and whole assembly, flywheel, bolt and all, back to CenterForce for them to, GET THIS, "evaluate". When I talked to them on the phone about the problem, they, LIKE MSD DID, tried to come up with an explination that indicated my setup or flywheel was at fault. NO GO GUYS! So I got to pay for the shipping out there to their facility, so that they could make the approperate changes to their equipment, ALL at my cost! I thought that was a bunch of shit to be honest. (Disclaimer: This is my webpage and I will talk the way I want to!) So when I got the assembly back, and they were so nice to pick up the shipping this time, I already had my flywheel bolts modified. Lets just say I WAS NOT IMPRESSED with their customer service, and in the end their product all together. That piece of shit died on the dyno @ 380 foot pounds of torque, so much for the 90% holding force OVER the stock clutch, YEA RIGHT, they, LIKE MSD, are done! Market their crap on a pretext, and when you need it to do what they claim, it falls right on it's ass. Pisses me off, another tranny pull that time just to junk their CRAP. So if any of you CenterForce guys read this,,,, TOUGH SHIT, and again I refer you to my disclaimer!
You should use RED lock tight when torquing the blot. The lock tight will act as a lube to the threads, and when it dries, will hold the bolt in place so that it will not loosen itself while running the engine at high rpm levels. Also ensure there is NO oil, dirt, old lock tight, or any foreign substance, fod, debris, of any kind on the bolt, crankshaft end, or the flywheel when you assemble the parts.
My personal recommendation
Stay with the Nissan component and you should be fine