DESIGNER STRUCK BY DE PALMA'S "VOLUPTUOUS USE" OF THE CAMERA & DONAGGIO'S "SENSUAL MUSIC"
"No. 21 Explores Italian Film Noir," reads the headline of Kristen Bateman's article for Paper (the photograph at left, taken by Sonny Vandevelde, comes from that article, as well). But, according to Bateman, designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua said in a statement that he was inspired by an American film by Brian De Palma:
For fall 2019, No. 21 sought to reinvent the film noir icon as a stylish Italian bad girl. Nearly every single garment had a cut-out, some fully revealing the bottoms of models as they walked the catwalk. "It all comes from an impression I got watching Brian De Palma's 1980 film Dressed to Kill again," Alessandro Dell'Acqua, creative director of the brand said in a statement. "I was particularly struck by the atmosphere the director created both with his voluptuous use of the movie camera and with the passionate, sensual music of Pino Donaggio, mounting a true symphony of terror on the screen."
Taking the reader through several photos of the No. 21 show (part of Milan Fashion Week), Bateman continues:
Cut-outs on the backs of dresses exposed the biggest hints of skin. Along with matching jackets paired with simple bandeau bras, there was no shortage of revealing moments. "I wanted to recreate a similar mood, sending down the catwalk a strong woman who clearly craves to come on sexy and who, with equal awareness, exalts her own ambiguity through clothes that reveal her real intentions," explained Dell'Acqua.
The Associated Press' Colleen Barry also writes about the show:
No. 21 UNZIPPED
Alessandro Dell'Acqua's looks for next fall and winter were decidedly unzipped and mostly down the back.
From the front, the looks were prim and proper, mostly monochromatic. But down the back, everything was coming purposely undone, zippers left agape and matching panties showing. The designer said he was inspired by Brian De Palma's film noir "Dressed to Kill."
Dresses were worn off the shoulders revealing a knit-bra top. A ruffle-hem baby-doll dress was left carelessly unzipped, held together only by a strap at the nape. Open-back dresses were worn like tunics over trousers. Panels hung like trains down the back of trenches. Raincoats were left agape in the back.
The runway show can be viewed in its entirety at Daily Motion.