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Amazonia National Park
This huge national park can best be seen by hiring a guide locally for hikes
through the dense rain forest (hiking without a guide is allowed only on certain
trails). Be sure to take food and treated water with you on the trail. During
the rainy season (February-April) you can tour the flooded rain forest by boat.
Basic cabins are available in the park only if they're not being used by
scientists; visitors can stay in hotels in the town of Itaituba. 1,550
mi/2,500 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Angra Dos Reis
This town is a popular jumping-off point for trips to nearby islands such as the
wonderful Ilha Grande, a nature preserve with great beaches, and for
yachting and spear fishing. To kill time while waiting for your boat, visit the
Nossa Senhora do Carmo church and convent. There's a Club Med in nearby
Mangaratiba. 75 mi/120 km west of Rio de Janeiro.
Belem
The large port city of Belem (pop. 1,245,000) is a good base for half-day river
cruises to get a close look at jungle, birds, dugout canoes and Brazilian
fishermen. (These short cruises are really intended for people who aren't headed
farther up the Amazon on longer cruises.) Belem itself has enough of interest to
justify a two-day stay: the 18th-century Basilica de Nossa Senhora de Nazare;
the Goeldi Museum (a combination of zoo, botanical gardens, aquarium and a good
ethnology museum); some old French-style mansions in the Cidade Velha (Old
Town); and the Teatro da Paz, which was graced by Anna Pavlova and other famous
performers at the beginning of the 20th century. The Ver-o-Peso Market is
special: Among the fruit and vegetable stalls, you'll find vendors selling
crocodile teeth, dried boa constrictors and Macumba charms, such as amulets with
mysterious powers and incense to ward off the evil eye (go early in the morning
to see the most action). If possible, attend a batuque ceremony (batuque
is a local religion that mixes indigenous and Catholic rituals with elements
from traditional African religions) known for its colorful costumes and vivid
music. Not far from the city is the Ilha de Marajo, an island the size of
Switzerland at the convergence of the Amazon and several smaller rivers. It's
famous for its herds of enormous water buffalo, and the island's ranches accept
guests July-December. 1,520 mi/2,445 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Belo Horizonte
This very modern and industrial city is usually visited as a stopover point for
travelers going from Rio to Brasilia. Belo Horizonte (pop. 2,017,000), called
"Belo" locally, lies in the center of the country's most important mining area.
It probably doesn't warrant more than one full day and night to see its
highlights: the Palacio das Artes handicraft museum and the Church of Sao
Francisco (paintings by artist Portinari and designed by Niemeyer, the primary
architect of Brasilia). You can also see a prehistoric indigenous people's cave
and the Museum of Modern Art. Walk through the city's jewelry section and
window-shop for gems (buy only if you know what you're doing). If you're in Belo
on a Sunday morning, visit the arts-and-crafts fair in Municipal Park (don't
overlook the park, which has an incredible 2,000 species of trees, as well as a
few resident pickpockets). Belo is known for its hearty cuisine. A visit to
Congonhas (45 mi/70 km away) can be made as a day trip, or as a prelude to
nearby colonial Ouro Preto. If you're in Congonhas, be sure to visit the
Basilica de Bom Jesus to see Brazil's most famous work of art, the Twelve
Prophets, created by sculptor Aleijadinho. 220 mi/350 km northwest of Rio
de Janeiro.
Brasilia
Brasilia, the nation's capital (pop. 1,598,000), was constructed from scratch at
the end of the 1950s. Located near the geographical center of the country, it
replaced Rio as the capital in 1960. Built in only three years under the
direction of Brazil's leading architects, Oscar Niemeyer and Lucio Costa, and
landscaper Burle Marx, Brasilia was intended to draw development to the
country's interior. Although, it appeared to be a well-planned city on paper, in
reality it falls short of its promise. The city was laid out in the shape of an
airplane (a modernist metaphor): Government and administrative buildings form
the cockpit and fuselage, and residential and shopping areas fill in the wings.
The city was planned for a maximum population of 500,000, with space set aside
in every residential block for apartments, restaurants, shops and services. No
provisions were made, however, for the great mass of nongovernmental workers
(more than 1 million in number) who provide services to the city and who live in
several "satellite communities" (more commonly referred to as slums).
In addition, there are a few other details that weren't very well-planned. For
instance, even though the temperature is always blazing hot, there's little
shade, and every building must be air conditioned - a tall order for an
energy-poor country. It's also a city that's convenient only if you have a car:
Even short distances on a map make miserable walks. What's more, its location in
the middle of nowhere has not endeared it to the politicians who live and work
there (those who can afford it get away every weekend to enjoy the cultural
attractions of Brazil's larger and more cosmopolitan cities).
Unless you're particularly interested in modern architecture, don't go out of
your way to visit Brasilia - especially at the expense of some of the country's
other attractions. If you do go, one or two days will be ample time to see some
of the more impressive buildings (that have earned it a place on UNESCO's list
of World Heritage Sites): the Palacio do Congresso (National Congress Building),
Palacio do Planalto (presidential mansion and offices), Palacio da Justica
(Supreme Court, with its artificial waterfall) and the Palacio de Itamaraty
(Foreign Ministry). For a nice view of the main buildings, go to the Praca dos
Tres Poderes (Square of the Three Powers - referring to the legislative,
executive and judicial branches). Afterward, see the impressive National
Cathedral, built in the shape of a crown with angels suspended within.
You'll find a good view of the city atop the main television tower (you'll be
able to see from there that the city is indeed shaped like an airplane). If you
have more time, visit the national museum (historical displays and a
comprehensive modern firearms collection). The embassy sector, where each
country has taken pains to represent its national contemporary architecture, is
worth seeing only if you're stumped for something to do - the area is relatively
isolated, and all you can do is look over the compound walls at embassies.
575 mi/925 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Buzios
Buzios (pronounced BOO-zee-ohs) is a pricey, attractive resort area
jutting into the Atlantic on the Cabo Frio Peninsula. The resort is made up of
three towns (Armacao, Ossos and Manguinhos) with 17 idyllic
beaches set among sandy coves. Water sports include surfing, windsurfing at
Ferradura (Horseshoe) Beach, snorkeling (Joao Fernandes and Joao Fernandinho
beaches) and swimming. Sunbathers can avoid tan lines at Azeda and Azedinha, the
resort's two topless beaches. Although not very well-known by North Americans,
Buzios was "discovered" by French actress Brigitte Bardot when she was touring
the area in the 1960s, and it has been popular for years with wealthy Brazilians
and Europeans. Development is continuing at a controlled pace: New buildings
have a height limit of two stories and are designed to blend in with local
surroundings - a neat trick for million-dollar villas in what was once a fishing
village. Most lodging is in small pousada-style accommodations. Book as
far in advance as possible, because it can get busy. As befits an upscale
resort, there are many fine shops and excellent restaurants (international and
Brazilian cuisine). At least once, sample grilled fish, fresh from the sea, on
the beach - it's a special treat (and inexpensive, too). 125 mi/200 km
northeast of Rio de Janeiro.
Chapada Diamantina National Park
This mountainous area, where diamonds were discovered nearly 200 years ago, is
dotted with abandoned mining towns. The lush mountains are laced with hiking
trails that pass roaring waterfalls, rivers, mysterious caves and dozens of
varieties of wild (often rare) orchids (but hire a guide - maps are hard to
find). Rock hounds will enjoy the opportunity to collect unusual specimens -
those with a keen eye may even spot a diamond. The charming town of Lencois
was the center of the diamond activity, and it has retained much of the flavor
of its diamond-rush days. Visit the old French vice-consulate (the French bought
industrial diamonds for use in drills in the construction of the Panama Canal)
and the Mining Museum (Museu do Garimpo). Other interesting old towns include
Mucuge and Palmeiras. 725 mi/1,165 km north of Rio de Janeiro.
Costa Verde
Named for the ancient Atlantic forest that covers much of the shoreline, the
Costa Verde (Green Coast) offers relaxing day and weekend trips from Rio and Sao
Paulo. Locals favor its charm and authenticity over fancier Buzios. The drive
from Rio to the city of Santos is beautiful: Small beaches line one side
of the road, jungle and mountains the other. Visitors pass cattle ranches,
quaint 17th-century towns, uncrowded beaches of white sand and more than 300
offshore islands. (The islands can be seen on day trips from Sepetiba Bay,
an hour-long drive from Rio.) Santos itself, located 45 mi/70 km southeast of
Sao Paulo, is Brazil's leading commercial port - both Santos and next-door
neighbor Guaruja afford a wide range of nice beaches and boat tours.
Nearby Jose Menino has beautiful orchid gardens that flower from October
to February. East of Santos is the popular beach resort of Ubatuba. Also
in this area is the colonial town of Parati (settled in 1650), which has
been designated a national (and UNESCO) monument. The historical town center is
now closed to automobile traffic. 175 mi/280 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Curitiba
This large capital of the state of Parana is a nice, well-functioning and clean
city that is finally beginning to get the attention it deserves. Settled by
Germans, Poles and Italians, Curitiba is usually a way station on the highway
from Sao Paulo to Iguaçu Falls or points south. A model for urban planners
throughout the world, the city features Lagoa da Ordem (a nicely preserved
historic neighborhood with cobblestone streets), pleasant parks (with many bike
paths) and several museums (we liked the exterior of the art-nouveau Museu
Paraense, though its exhibits were less memorable than its facade). It has
excellent restaurants (Italian, Japanese and Brazilian) and active nightlife
(local jazz and rock). But perhaps the biggest surprise is Brazilian drivers who
stop at red lights. Unless you plan a day trip to Vila Velha, one night is
adequate. Another day trip is the 65-mi/105-km train ride to the town of
Paranagua through lovely mountain scenery. 420 mi/675 km southwest of Rio
de Janeiro.
Emas National Park
Advance permission from the National Park Department (IBAMA) is advisable for
visiting this park (there are no tourist facilities), but hard-core nature
lovers will find that it's an excellent place to see Brazilian wildlife. The
residents include rheas, anteaters, capybaras, coatimundis and armadillos, as
well as tropical birds. Enormous termite mounds dot the grounds. The park lies
east of the Pantanal. 745mi/1200km northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Fernando de Noronha
A small, mountainous archipelago off the northeastern coast, Fernando de Noronha
is a year-round destination that offers quiet beaches, a laid-back atmosphere
and, above all, superb diving, snorkeling and surfing. The landscapes and
seascapes are diverse and beautiful: The islands were declared an environmental
reserve in 1986. Most people spend four or five nights in the islands. All
visitors are supposed to arrange accommodation before arrival, and the vast
majority stay in simple pousadas where three meals a day are usually
provided. (There are only a couple of restaurants in the islands.) 320 mi/510
km northeast of Recife.
Florianopolis
Imagine Bavaria by a tropical bay and you'll have some idea of Florianopolis.
The capital of Santa Catarina state, the city is divided into two parts: The
mainland is mostly industrial, but the scenic spots are on the island -
attractive colonial buildings, 400-year-old forts, baroque churches and the best
surfing in Brazil (on the eastern coast of the island). Florianopolis' nightlife
is active, and the bierhalls are popular meeting spots (the city produces
some of Brazil's best beer). Nearby, at Camboriu, are resorts and
casinos. 480 mi/770 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Fortaleza
This coastal city (pop. 1,766,000) has several outstanding beaches to the north
and south, but avoid the polluted beaches in town. Facilities are adequate, but
the seafood and local music are excellent. It's a good place to shop for
Brazilian handicrafts. Aside from a few museums and the mausoleum for Castelo
Branco (a military president), there really isn't much to see or do. 1,350
mi/2,175 km north of Rio de Janeiro.
Iguaçu Falls
Located near the junction of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, Iguaçu Falls
(pronounced eeh-gwa-SUE) is a must-see: It may be the greatest waterfall
in the world. There are 275 cataracts in all, stretching 2 mi/4 km from bank to
bank and reaching a height of 300 ft/90 m. The falls, on the Parana River, are
best seen October-December and March-May. We suggest flying from Rio or Sao
Paulo as early as possible, overnighting at the falls, then flying to another
destination the next evening. That way, you'll have a lot of time at the falls,
which look and photograph differently depending on the light. The adventurous
can go by train, road or riverboat (the boat trip takes about two days from
Rio). A four-minute helicopter ride goes up the river into the falls and over
them, then circles and comes down into the falls again before landing (there's
about a 1-mi/2-km walk back).
About 35 mi/55 km south of the falls, you can drive into Argentina via a bridge
or continue on to Paraguay. We don't recommend it, however. The traffic is
horrendous, as the area is jam-packed with South Americans shopping for
discounted (and often counterfeit) goods. Instead, we suggest that you stay
longer at the falls or visit the old missions in the area.
Keep in mind that you'll need a very long day to see both the Brazilian and
Argentine sides of the falls. On the Brazilian side, you'll see the falls from a
distance (although the views are breathtaking), and the Argentine side has
catwalks that take you deeper into the jungle setting and right up to the edge
of the roaring waters. (You can take a boat ride quite close to the edge.) The
park has an aviary with more than 200 types of birds, most of which are native
to Brazil.
An easy side trip is to the vast Itaipu Dam, built jointly by Brazil and
Paraguay, where you can take a free tour. It's one of the largest hydroelectric
works projects in the world (55 stories high and 5 mi/8 km wide - 12,800
megawatts). 730 mi/1,175 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Itatiaia National Park
The main sights of this mountainous park - Brazil's first - include rock
formations created by erosion (including the Prateleiras, or "bookshelves," made
up of giant rock slabs). The park encompasses waterfalls, alpine meadows and
lowland jungle. Wildlife includes monkeys, sloths and more than 400 species of
birds. 90 mi/145 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Joao Pessoa
The capital of Paraiba state, Joao Pessoa (pop. 497,000) lies on the easternmost
tip of South America and is Brazil's third oldest city. The main reason to visit
is to see the Igreja Sao Francisco, one of Brazil's most interesting churches:
Elements of several European architectural styles can be seen in its facade (the
Dutch, French and Portuguese all occupied the city at different times). The
beaches are also quite good, and nearby Praia de Tambaba (about 20 mi/35 km
south of the city) is one of Brazil's most famous nude beaches. 1,060
mi/1,705 km northeast of Brasilia.
Manaus
In the days of the Amazon rubber boom (before the invention of synthetic
rubber), Manaus was known as the Paris of the Jungle. Those days, however, are
long gone: Today's Manaus is a troubled city. Part of the city center was
devastated by a fire, and the population has exploded to 1,300,000,
overburdening sanitation and health facilities. Nonetheless, Manaus still serves
as a base for tourist excursions exploring the mid-Amazon region. Day trips can
be made by riverboat to visit villages built on stilts or to hike through the
jungle on foot. Several jungle lodges in the vicinity offer a wide variety of
rain-forest programs. When cruising down the river about 12 mi/20 km from town,
watch for the "Meeting of the Waters," where the dark, muddy waters of the Rio
Negro begin to merge with the light, yellowish waters of the Rio Solimoes to
become the mighty Amazon. Adventurous travelers might consider long-distance
river journeys to or from Belem (though to be honest, we were bored out of our
gourds after three days on the river).
The city itself, though rather dirty, is worth exploring. Despite the fact that
it's 1,000 mi/1,600 km inland, huge oceangoing ships dock there to distribute
their cargo throughout the Amazon basin, and it's fascinating to watch them
unload. Amazon wildlife can be easily seen at the CIGS zoo, and the Municipal
Market on the river is colorful and lively, with plenty of indigenous crafts,
herbs and medicines - try to visit when fishermen arrive and unload their catch.
Make a point to see the restored 1892 opera house, Teatro Amazonas, in all its
belle-epoque splendor. Some top performers have sung there. As in any busy port
city, stay clear of the port area - and Praca da Matriz - after dark. Also be
wary of strangers offering jungle tours - particularly at the airport, bus
stations or hotel districts. Make tour arrangements ahead of time or through the
city's official tourist office. Plan two nights in Manaus. 1,200 mi/1,930 km
northwest of Brasilia.
Natal
This city of 607,000, located on the northeastern tip of Brazil, is best known
for its beaches. We think the two nicest are Ponta Negra and Praia Maio. Negra
is a relatively deserted stretch of sand dunes south of town (except on
weekends, when the dunes are hopping with crowds), and Maio is a broad beach in
town protected by a reef and the star-shaped 16th-century Fortaleza dos Reis
Magos (Fort of the Magi). The lighthouse of Mae Luiza affords great views of
Natal and the surrounding beaches. Because of its distance from other major
areas, Natal isn't visited by many tourists. Plan three nights there if you're a
beach lover; otherwise, one night will be plenty. 1,290 mi/2,075 km north of
Rio de Janeiro.
Niteroi
Just across the bay from Rio, Niteroi is a town with three wonderful beaches:
Itaipu, Camboinhas and Itacoatiara. The city is connected by bus and ferry to
Rio. There are numerous restaurants, bars, clubs and kiosks. Parque da Cidade
has wildflowers, tropical plants and a beautiful view of the city. Don't miss
the recently constructed Museum of Contemporary Art, designed by Oscar Niemeyer.
It has stunning views of Rio from across Guanabara Bay. 9 mi/14 km east of
Rio de Janeiro.
Olinda
Olinda (pop. 389,000) has some of the best-preserved colonial buildings in
Brazil (UNESCO has declared it a "monument to humanity") with some stunning
examples of baroque Portuguese architecture. We think the best way to see Olinda
is on foot. Stroll its 16th- and 17th-century cobblestone streets past colonial
houses, shops, churches and markets. Many bohemians and artists live and work
there, and the town holds major annual festivals - the best known being the loud
and frenetic Carnival, with splendid costumes that make it by far the most
colorful Carnival in Brazil. Olinda is only a 20-minute car ride from Recife.
1,200 mi/1,930 km northeast of Rio de Janeiro.
Ouro Preto
Originally named Vila Rica (Rich Town), this 18th-century hill town (pop.
30,000) was once the wealthiest gold-mining center of Brazil. (The name Ouro
Preto means Black Gold.) We think it's a must-see, particularly for architecture
and history buffs.
Unlike many other colonial towns in the country, Ouro Preto is largely
unaffected by encroaching modern buildings and skyscrapers. For this reason, it
is considered one of Brazil's two best-preserved colonial towns (the other is
Olinda). Ouro Preto has cobblestone streets, baroque churches and scenic ruins.
Other evidence of its past wealth and glory includes the 18th-century church
Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Pilar (much of it covered in gold leaf) and
sculptures by Aleijadinho. Allocate a half-hour to see the Museum of the School
of Mines (containing 25,000 gems and mineral samples), located on the main
square. The massive white sculpture nearby depicts independence hero Tiradentes
("Toothpuller" - he was a dentist). The town can be seen as a day trip from Belo
Horizonte, but we recommend at least a day and night in Ouro Preto, just to
absorb its special atmosphere. Nearby Mariana, filled with baroque
churches, is also a gem. Its terrain is relatively flat, so those who have
difficulty walking might find it an alternative to steep Ouro Preto. 60
mi/100 km southeast of Belo Horizonte.
Pantanal
The Pantanal is one of the world's great wildlife reserves. A trip there should
be booked through an adventure tour operator - only a very small part of the
area has any tourism infrastructure (or towns, for that matter). The Pantanal
abounds with birds (especially waterfowl), and because the terrain is largely
open, it's easier to spot some animals in the Pantanal than farther north in the
jungles of the Amazon. Fishing is excellent, with more than 350 varieties of
fish, some weighing up to 175 lb/80 kg. The reserve has the greatest variety of
birds and mammals in the Americas, including alligators, deer, armadillos and
capybaras (the world's largest rodent). Unfortunately, poaching has endangered
some of the animals, and anteaters, jaguars and otters are no longer commonly
seen (although they're said to be making a comeback). The best time to visit is
during the breeding season (July-September). 1,000 mi/1,600 km west of Rio de
Janeiro.
Petropolis
An hour's drive from Rio, Petropolis provides a very nice vacation from your
vacation. Set in the cool hills north of Rio, this Swiss-style town (pop.
286,000) was the summer retreat for the last emperor of Brazil, Pedro II (hence
the name Petropolis). Petropolis' main attractions are its Crystal Palace,
Gothic cathedral, Museu Imperial (featuring the Emperor's crown, robes and
sumptuous furnishings) and many aristocratic mansions, some of which can be
visited. It also boasts the house of Alberto Santos-Dumont, a
turn-of-the-20th-century Brazilian aviator, believed by Brazilians to be the
inventor of the airplane. (The Brazilian Encyclopedia Britannica doesn't
have an entry for the Wright brothers.) We especially enjoyed the
horse-and-carriage rides through the city past lovely canals and bridges,
old-fashioned street lamps and pleasant parks. 30 mi/45 km north of Rio de
Janeiro.
Porto Alegre
This modern southern city (pop. 1,263,000) first became notable around the turn
of the 20th century when large groups of European immigrants (primarily Germans
and Italians) arrived. Plan two nights in Porto Alegre to see its baroque
Italian cathedral, several palacios (mansions), the 80-acre/30-hectare
Parque Farroupilha and the Teatro Sao Pedro (the city's oldest theater). If time
permits, take a ride on the Guaiba River to see islands and the city from the
water. Day trips north can be made to visit the shoe-manufacturing town of
Nova Hamburgo - the drive there passes potato, corn, tobacco, sugarcane and
soybean fields. On the way are the towns of Canela and Gramado,
where descendants of German immigrants make baskets and wooden handicrafts.
700 mi/1,125 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro.
Recife
The coastal city of Recife (pop. 1,297,000), on the Golden Coast of northeastern
Brazil, presents a contrast of colonial and modern buildings. Called the Venice
of Brazil for its canals and bridges, Recife is dirtier than the Italian version
(but not by much). Plan two nights to see the three main regions of the city
(spread out over islands and peninsulas connected by bridges - the older parts
of the city are nearest the ocean). Recife has a number of interesting museums,
including ones devoted to subjects such as clay, sugar, trains, slavery,
archaeology and geography. There are also 17th- and 18th-century baroque
churches with beautiful wood carvings and gilded altars. Take time to browse at
the Casa da Cultura (an old prison converted into a shopping mall), or shop for
Brazil's finest ceramic tiles at the Brennand Ceramics Workshops, just outside
of town (there are also many startling sculptures there). Recife has a fantastic
Carnival that rivals those in Rio and Salvador.
Several half- and full-day excursions can be made, including visits to Olinda; Cabo (20 mi/30 km south - beaches at Gaibu, a fort and a museum); the
island of Itamaraca (30 mi/50 km north - good beaches, a 17th-century
Dutch fort and one of the oldest churches in Brazil); Sao Jose da Coroa
Grande (65 mi/110 km south - beaches and good scuba diving); and Caruaru
(85 mi/135 km west - a figurative-arts center with big markets Friday-Sunday and
smaller markets on other days). Tours to traditional sugarcane plantations
outside Recife are also available. 1,155 mi/1,860 km north of Rio de Janeiro.
Rio de Janeiro
Rio - sensuous, chaotic, sophisticated, open and friendly - is one of South
America's gems. The Cidade Maravihosa (Marvelous City), as Brazilians
call it, displays a unique blend of contrasts: old and new, tremendous wealth
amid crushing poverty, an urban metropolis nestled around mountains and a huge
forest. And all of this is symbolically embraced in the outstretched arms of
Cristo Redentor, the statue of Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado Mountain.
Elaborate parades impelled by the drums of samba schools transform Rio during
carnaval, the four-day holiday that takes place just before Lent, in
February or early March. But if the buzz of the city becomes too much - during
carnaval or otherwise - there's always an easy escape: Spend an afternoon
at a seaside cafe, hypnotized by the view, or escape to the lush Tijuca Forest
that surrounds the city's mountainous slopes, where you can hike, bike or jump
under a waterfall.
Salvador
This striking city (pop. 2,300,000), Brazil's former colonial capital, lies on
the beautiful Bay of All Saints (Bahia de Todos os Santos), the second largest
bay in the country. A strong African influence derives from the slaves brought
to work in the sugarcane fields more than 400 years ago. Salvador is divided
into an Upper Town and a Lower Town. Both are linked by the art-deco Lacerda
elevator, which offers outstanding views. The Pelourinho is the largest intact
colonial center in the Americas. Its twisting, narrow cobblestone streets are
lined with pastel mansions and stunning baroque churches and convents. Colorful
open-air markets, an amazing array of popular and religious festivals (including
Afro-Brazilian Candomble ceremonies and fantastic beaches) make this an
excellent place to stay for two or three nights.
No tour of the city is complete without seeing the Igreja de Sao Francisco -
although relatively plain on the outside (as are most Portuguese churches in
Brazil), the inside is covered in gold leaf and is as ornate as it is beautiful.
Also visit the Farol da Barra, a 16th-century fortified lighthouse that
overlooks the Bay of All Saints and the island of Itaparica. The Igreja do
Bonfim is where believers from the northeast go to worship and pay for the
promises they made in return for miracles (don't miss the Room of Miracles,
where pilgrims leave wooden, silver or wax replicas of body parts in need of
miraculous healing - you'll be amazed by the number of arms, legs, heads, hearts
and lungs dangling from the ceiling). Dozens of other stunning colonial churches
are sprinkled throughout Salvador's center and colonial district, including the
Cathedral Igreja Nossa Senhora Rosario dos Pretos (built by and for slaves),
Igreja deo Carmo and Igreja Nossa Senhora da Conceicao.
Shopping is good at boutiques in the neighborhoods of Barra and in the
Pelourinho, as well as at shopping malls such as Barra and Igautemi. Avoid the
touristy Mercado Modelo. The chaotic but colorful Sao Joaquim market has
interesting and authentic Afro-Brazilian artifacts.
Other reminders of the city's past can be seen at the Museu de Arte da Bahia
(17th-century antique displays) and the Museu de Arte Sacra. The city's culture
is celebrated in the Museu da Cidade (Yoruba tribal displays), the
Afro-Brazilian Museum (with good explanations about Afro-Brazilian religions)
and the sumptuously furnished Carlos Costa Pinto Museum, located in a
19th-century mansion. Try to attend a candomble religious ceremony at a
traditional house or terreiro, and watch capoeira, an amazing
combination of martial arts and African folk dance (don't take pictures of the
participants unless you are willing to pay for the privilege). Salvador also has
a great Carnival celebration. Billed as the largest street party in the world,
it is seven days of nonstop revelry that in recent years has threatened to
eclipse even Rio's Carnival.
North of Salvador are the lovely fishing villages and beaches of the Coconut
Coast, including Arembepe, Imbassai and the more upscale Praia do Forte,
which borders the Sapiranga Ecological Reserve. The reserve protects one of
Brazil's last areas of ancient Atlantic rain forest. Itaparica, a lush
island 12 mi/19 km southwest, has several nice beaches and a great view of
Salvador across the bay. Every hour, the Sao Joaquim Ferry makes the 45-minute
crossing. A high-speed launch also makes the trip in 15 minutes.
Note: Salvador has more than its share of poverty and crime. When you're
having a soda or beer in an open bar or cafe (particularly in the Pelourinho),
be prepared for beggars with cups or glasses to ask you for a drink. Crime
directed at tourists can be a problem. However, both the Pelourinho and the
beaches at Barra are well-supervised by special tourist police. For safety's
sake, however, dress simply and take taxis after dark. 750 mi/1,200 km
northeast of Rio de Janeiro.
Sao Luis
Founded by a French pirate and named after a French king (Louis XIII), the
bewitching capital of Maranhao is one of Brazil's most beautiful cities. Located
on an island in the Bay of Sao Marcos, Sao Luis' claim to fame is its colonial
center, with mansions covered in shiny ceramic tiles (azulejos) imported
from France and Portugal during the 18th and 19th centuries. Aside from some
interesting churches and palaces, this area - known as Projeto Reviver because
it's undergoing restoration - boasts some interesting small museums (Museu do
Centro de Cultura Popular) and a fantastic old circle-shaped 19th-century
market. Across the Jose Sarney is a long string of wide beaches, the nicest of
which is Calhau. Although poor and rundown in parts, Sao Luis is quite small and
friendly. It's best to stay near the colonial part of town so as not to have to
walk around at night. Sao Luis has a charming, traditional Carnival and a famous
June festival called bumba-meu-boi: a unique and colorful fusion of
African, indigenous and Portuguese folk elements.
Across Sao Marcos Bay from Sao Luis is Alcantara, Maranhao's first capital.
Built in the 1600s by slaves, it was once a rich town, but its 19th-century
mansions and churches have fallen into ruin. There are no modern buildings at
all, so traveling there (launches leave from Sao Luis' hydroviaria
regularly) is like going back in time. The people - many descendants of African
slaves - are warm. 1430 mi/2300 km northeast of Rio de Janeiro.
Sao Paulo
Sao Paulo - or "Sampa," as residents fondly call it - is the third-largest city
in the world, and it shows. The city sprawls like a concrete, land-guzzling
monster. Towering high-rises seem to block the horizon in all directions.
Streets are an endless bustle of sidewalk traders, shoppers and sharp-suited
business folk. Traffic jams exist 24 hours a day. The overall effect is
overwhelming, particularly for the first-time visitor.
Paulistanos - as the city's residents are known - are famous workaholics,
responsible for making Sao Paulo one of Latin America's most important
industrial and economic centers. But Paulistanos play hard, too. After hours,
the city throbs with laughter and music - you'll find more venues to enjoy live
Brazilian and international music there than anywhere else in the country. It
has top-notch restaurants and a wealth of cinemas and theaters, not to mention
world-class nightclubs and DJs.
Vila Velha
This park in southern Brazil has a beautiful crater lake and odd rock formations
(some are 650 ft/200 m long and 1,970 ft/600 m wide) that - with the help of
your imagination and a guide - appear to be carved in the shapes of people,
animals and objects. An elevator takes you down inside the crater. This
intriguing park is best seen as a day trip from Curitiba. 480 mi/770 km
southwest of Rio de Janeiro.
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