My African Violet Page

"Summer Lightning"

"Kiwi Dazzler"

"Edna Fischer"

PROBLEMS:

• Crown and RootRot, Even though these are instances of fungal attack; the real problem is cultural. This is caused by allowing the root area of the plant to be continuously wet. By using too heavy a potting mix, by standing the pot permanently in water, or by letting the plant dry out until it wilts and then overcompensating and flooding with water.
• Petiole rot is only partly fungal and occurs when there is a build-up of fertiliser salts on the crown of the plant and/or the rim of the pot. The petiole that is resting on the pot rim is burned by this encrustation, allowing the entrance of fungus spores. The cure for this condition is easy - "Leach" the potting mix regularly - by every month or so give the plant a shower of warm water; allow it to gently flow through the potting mix until it runs freely from the drainage holes. This will carry away any excess fertiliser.

"Skagit's Doll"

• Botrytis is a grey mould and is not normally experienced except when the plant is very wet. Dead flowers may be the source of mould when plants are kept very damp. This mould can then damage other parts of the plant. So remove all dead flowers and dead or damaged leaves.
• Mites are microscopically small creatures that are not actually insects but are allied to spiders. They suck the juices from the tender new growth on african violets. The first thing you usually notice is that the centres leaves begin to look twisted, tight and hard. Sometimes they look yellow or greyish and appear to be more hairy than usual. If nothing is done the entire centre of the plant can be ruined and eventually the plant dies. It is reported that two mites living in optimum conditions of 27 def C and over, can produce 13 million offspring in 30 days. So obviously this is a problem to get on to very quickly. The first thing to do is to separate the plant from any others - The cure is to spray with a miticide (insecticides may not be effective) Not all systemic compounds are effective against mites. Kelthane is good if you can get it and should be used according to the manufacturer's directions. Spray two or three times at fourteen day intervals, so to be sure to kill subsequent generations of mites. If you have only a few plants and don't want to get involved spraying with poisons it may be better to discard the plants and buy new ones. If it is a special plant to you, take a leaf or two, dip those in a mild insecticide as a precaution (mites are not usually present on older foliage as it is too tough for them) and plant these leaves.

"Sassy Lass"

• Mealy Bugs Most house plant collectors will have come across these devils already. They are small, but visible, greyish white and furry looking. They suck the sap from the soft parts of the plants. Sometimes the first sign they have moved in is the woolly egg sacs in the leaf axils. Not only are there mealy bugs which will attack the leaves of the plant, but mealy bugs can be found in the root system. Control of mealy bugs is best effected by the use of a systemic insecticide, or by spraying and drenching the potting medium with Malathion solution. If you appear to only have a few mealy bugs on the foliage you can touch each visible bug or egg sac with a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits. This will kill the bugs, but you will have to continue checking the plant, for a few days and repeating if necessary.
  
  
  
  

  "Fantasy Charm"

  
  
  
• Fungus Gnats and Springtails: Can be more a nuisance than a dire threat to your plant. Gungus gnats are like tiny flies which are sometimes seen swarming round the plants. There is a larval stage though, and the tiny grubs may be present in the potting mix. Here they live on decaying plant matter, rarely attacking the living parts of the plant. Springtails are tiny white or transparent jumping insects which may be seen on the top of the potting mix. They do minimal damage to the plant. Both can be eliminated by drenching the plant with a Malathion solution.

"Luv It"