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THE PROPER WAY TO HEM AND WEAR PANTS
Trousers were originally made to be worn
with suspenders, which held them on the waist, not the hips, and that
is where they look and hang best. No well-dressed man would wear
trousers that rested anywhere else. This is not an arbitrary gesture.
Every man, no matter how thin, has a slight bulge in his stomach area.
When trousers are worn on the waist, they pass smoothly over this bulge
in an even drape. Furthermore, waist-worn trousers emphasize the
smallness of the waist. They sit there comfortable, supported by the
hips. Trousers worn on the hip, however, must be belted tightly, for
there is nothing to hold them up.
When having trousers fitted on the waist,
the crotch of the trousers should fit as high as is comfortable. This
is especially important for giving a clean fit without sacrificing
freedom of movement. The trousers should be worn wide enough across the
hips so that there is no pulling across the front pockets. From the
side view, the pockets should lie flat on the hips.
Trousers should be long enough so that when you walk, your socks do not show.
Clothes and the Man by Alan Flusser
Trim-fitted with no bunching at waist or bagging at seat;
knee and bottom leg widths not altered beyond current
specifications for the waist size; front of trouser legs rests
on the front of shoe or boot with a slight break in the
crease; back of trouser legs will be approximately 7/8 inch
longer than the front. Full cut, straight hanging and
without cuffs
Trousers are hemmed on a slant (bias cut)so that the back falls slightly lower (just at the point where the heel and sole meet).
AFI 36-2903, Table 2.1, Line 1 |
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