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Harper's Tale
Dolphincraft History

Senior Journeymen
Senior Apprentices

The Dolphincraft


Shad's Notebook
Chapter 1: The Contract
A course on the Contract often takes the form of the teacher breaking it apart, and putting it together, to help everybody come to grips to what is expected of them and their relationship with the dolphins through discussion. Teaching involves making a clear understanding of what it means, what situations it is part of, and how far it goes, plus answering any questions that come up.

The contract reads:
Dolphins would protect humans on or in the water to their best abilities, in whatever weather and unsafe conditions, even to the giving up of dolphin life to save the frailer humans: they would appraise humans of bad weather conditions, show them where the schools of preferred fish were running, and warn them of sea hazards.

Humans would remove any bloodfish that might attach themselves to the dolphins' bodies, to float any stranded dolphin, to heal the sick and treat the wounded, to talk to them and to be partners if the dolphin was willing.

Suggestions are to concentrate on the sentences at logical breaks. One would discuss: Dolphins would protect humans on or in the water to their best abilities,
Then move on to: in whatever weather and unsafe conditions, etc. The key topic of discussion is the Dolphins Rights and ours. Is this a partnership or a subservient relationship and by whom.

Chapter 2: Rank Duties
The duties of the Apprentices:
Apprentices learn the basic DolphinCraft skills through a series of classes and tutoring from the journeymen and masters of the Craft, and through their mentor if they have one. OOCly, Apprentices may be promoted with or without classes based on merit, but only in special cases. An Apprentice must also finish an Apprentice Project assigned before promotion. (OOCly, it is recommended, though not demanded, that Apprentices spend at least 4+ hours online each week.) Senior Apprentices take the more advanced classes, teach if they log, and may choose a specialty.

The Duties of the Journeymen:
Journeymen may take mentees, or sometimes even be assigned mentees. They are expected to teach at least two classes to the apprentices. They, ICly, spend at least 2 days patrolling the coastline. OOCly, they are asked to be online for 7+ hours each week and RPing part of that time. Journeymen may become Craftsecond or Craftheads, and foster children. Also, they are asked to teach, barring extenuating circumstances, one class every 2-3 weeks.

The Duties of the Masters:
Masters will teach Journeymen advanced classes and Apprentice classes, and will do mentor duty just as always. Masters may also fill specialized positions such as Apprentice Master, Craftsecond, Crafthead, or Craftmaster. (These functions shall be explained later on.)

The Duties of Associates:
Associates are typically people who have been Searched and Impressed, or have left the Craft after a certain amount of training. They are allowed to continue to practice their skills, but have no authority or vote on things in the Crafthall. Depending on the level of training, they may return and be asked to teach or lecture about life outside the Craft, or teach skills that they learned before they left. Though as Associates they have no authority, they should be treated with respect. Chances are that they do hold authority in their primary role, i.e. rider, steward, etc.

A Craftmaster and his/her second are the two most senior people in the DolphinCraft. Craftheads are the leaders of the smaller Dolphinhalls (ICly, the Istan Dolphinhall), while the CM/C2 stay in the main hold, Master Sea Hold. ICly, they lead the Craft and make the final decisions. They're usually also the OOC Leaders of the Craft, unless otherwise noted. Each week, they are expected to maintain 7+ hours if possible.

Apprentice Master:
The Apprentice Master is in charge of the Apprentices and their discipline, ICly. Helping the new ones get settled, solving disputes, essentially maintaining a good relationship and keeping in-touch with what's going on to solve problems or head off potential ones. In a way, they're like the mentor to the entire Hall.

Chapter 3: Lesson Etiquette
Lessons! They're fun, educational, and necessary for promotion! But how do you get them and get the most out of them? The most important thing to remember is that lessons are just another form of RP. Your character's IC lives don't need to revolve around them, so your OOC involvement in the Craft doesn't have to be limited to them either. :) Don't wait for the word 'lesson' to pop up on channel to come out of the dorms or unidle. You can even offer to meet with Dolphineers just to RP--not only will they most likely appreciate being viewed as people and not lesson-teaching machines, but you'll show them that you're more than just a name on the @monitor. Classes are taught when instructors have the time and energy to teach them. Teaching is a demanding form of RP, and sometimes those who teach just want to relax and RP something else. Don't complain or try to guilt folks into giving lessons. Most often, if an instructor feels like giving a lesson, he or she will offer. That isn't to say you can never politely ask for a lesson to be taught some time soon, but instructors' time and responsibilities need to be respected as well. The best way to catch lessons is to hang out and RP, enjoy yourself, and be patient; what you need will be taught eventually.

Once a lesson has been called, that's your chance to show off and make the lesson more fun! Poses of at least 2 lines (or even longer!) are a Good Thing. Poses with dialog, when possible, are better. Don't idle for long periods; try to make a substantial pose every time everyone else in the room does, especially the instructor. You're trying to develop a repartee with your fellow apprentices, and a big part of that is giving those you're with something to respond to. Poses like 'Foofoo nods and listens' are tough to work with. So pose to the other apprentices and the dolphins as well as the instructor. Ask questions, make mistakes, let your character grow. ICly, an apprentice is still in training, so your character doesn't have to be a perfect student all the time.

Then after you've learned a few things, build your RP around the lessons you've been given. If you've had a swimming lesson or two, RP doing laps, going to do them, or having done them. If you've learned something about antiquities, cartography, or research, apply it. Who knows what could wash up on the beach or you could find on a dive! And remember that your character probably has other interests besides just going swimming and hanging out with dolphins. He or she could have hobbies like gitar playing, juggling, or weaving colorful bracelets for everyone in the Hall. Be creative! Have fun!

Chapter 4: Swim Lessons
>>Swimming Instruction
A Sr. App must teach at least one diving lesson along with swim and log it. It must be sent to Jmen-or-Up via E-Mail for review. If satisfactory, you pass; else, it will be critiqued and assistance lended. Just because you've completed both your logs, or have already done one of the logs, doesnt mean that you have to stop. You're free to continue logging your classes, and teaching as a Sr. Apprentice; if you show, consistently, that you are a good teacher, the need for logs may even be judged unnecessary. With permission, you may simply send the staff with the name of the class, the people who participated, and any comments you have.
Ask your mentor or a staff member to review your log, and get their email from them.

>>Arms Only
The swimmer pushes off from the wall with their legs, and then holds then completely still and straight for the rest of the length. They keep their head back, and the arm movements are small s paths along their sides.

This class is easily taught by, first, taking them out of the water and showing them how the arm movements work before trying it. Relax, put your head back, and use your arms to push you along without kicking with your legs.

>>Legs Only
The swimmer glides on their back again, doing what is a version of the Elementary Back Stroke, minus the arms, keeping them folded across their chest. Bend your legs at the knees, forming an 'L', then kicking both legs out in wide arcs to the side, bringing them smoothly together and gliding before folding them under themselves and repeating the motion.

>>Breast Stroke
The swimmer pushes off from the wall, gliding briefly underwater before thrusting their arms forwards and kicking their legs back. They then pull their arms around in a heart shaped loop that brings their head above the water so they can take a breath. While they pull their arms around, they also fold their legs up,. They then duck back under the water, thrusting their hands and arms forwards and ahead of them, and kicking their legs back in wide arcs to the side from their knees gliding through the water. They repeat this thrust - loop - and - glide to the end of the lane.

The swimmer pushes off from the wall and starts kicking lightly underwater with their lower legs. Their left arm arches out of the water above their head, pointing and entering the water in front of them. As it does, her right arm comes out, arching in the same movement. Every two or three strokes, they turn their head to the right as that arm comes out, taking a breath, then turn their face back into the water when it enters, slowly exhaling their breath. Their left arm comes out again when their right enters the water, and they follow the same pattern down the length of the lane.

The swimmer starts themselves moving by pushing off the wall with their legs, on their side. They glide momentarily then thrust their arms in opposite directions; one towards her toes, the other in front and above , keeping both underwater. Then they bring them both to their chest, palms outward, elbows still straight away from their body. As they do so, they also bring their legs up, bending them to prepare for a kick. They thrust their hands back in opposite directions again, and at the same time does a strong scissor - kick with their legs underwater, propelling themselves, and glide for a moment before repeating, bringing them to the end of the lane.

>>Elementary Backstroke
The swimmer flips over onto their back, pushing off with their legs from the wall. They kick lightly underwater with their lower legs. Simultaneously, they reach above and behind their head with their left arm. It enters the water smoothly, and they pull it down to their side in a fluent s-shaped path. As their left enters the water, so does their right arm exit, reaching above reaching above and behind their head, following the same course their left did, only on their opposite side. The stroke quickly brings them to the end of the lane and they take a hold of the lane wall to right themselves.

Swimmer starts by pushing off the wall and glides with their head down and arms level with their head, making an 'A' shape. After a few moments they push their arms up and out of the water and pull them back under in front of them. While this is being done, a sharp dolphin kick should be made, done by holding the legs together and bringing them up and down once. After the arms are about halfway to their sides, the palms should revolve in and out once by turning the wrist, and slide next to their sides. While this is being done, another dolphin kick should be made. Arms are now slid to their sides and the swimmer should glide for a moment, taking a breath either by tilting their head up or to the side. While breathing, the swimmer needs to bring their arms up again together in the 'A' and repeat the stroke for length of the lane. Note: This is the most physically demanding stroke and even Sr. Apprentices should have quite some trouble with it.

>>Diving Instruction
A Sr. App must teach at least one diving lesson along with swim and log it. It must be sent to Jmen-or-Up via E-Mail for review. If satisfactory, you pass; else, it will be critiqued and assistance lended. Just because you've completed both your logs, or have already done one of the logs, doesnt mean that you have to stop. You're free to continue logging your classes, and teaching as a Sr. Apprentice; if you show, consistently, that you are a good teacher, the need for logs may even be judged unnecessary. With permission, you may simply send the staff with the name of the class, the people who participated, and any comments you have.
Ask your mentor or a staff member to review your log, and get their email from them.

>>Basic Diving
The dive is done with the swimmer standing with their legs slightly bent at the edge from where they're diving, toes over the edge. The arms are straight and behind back, palms up. The swimmer then swings her arms forwards, pushing off with their legs and tucking their head between the 'v' their arms form. They enter the water at approximately a 45 degree angle.

>>Deep Dive
The deep dive consists of two parts:

The class is usually done from a ship; the first part of a dive down to enter the water at 45 degrees, shown and demonstrated to the apprentices. The teacher dives into the water, shows the techniques, how its done, and gives the students a chance to try. Its important to keep the legs straight, arms out, but its essentially very similar to the Basic Dive, the class taught to Apprentices.

The second part requires dolphins. You show them how to hold onto the dorsal fin, and then go down into the water. Explain that it is possible to go deeper than the usual dive with the dolphins help. Poses should be two: one going down, one for the dolphin if its a player dolphin, and then one re-emerging to the surface.

Chapter 5: Swimming with Dolphins
Dolphineers get to cruise the seas with a dolphin at the side. This chapter is the first introduction of swimming with the creatures. The most important thing to remember is that dolphins are intelligent and human-like; they are not beasts of burden. If you want to go swimming, be polite and ask your intended partner. They are usually obliging, and enjoy aiding humans, but show respect and don't abuse the privilege.

One hand should be cupped along the dorsal fin firmly, but not too tightly. The arm you aren't using should be slack, staying back against your side to lessen resistance as you move on. Kicking is up to you, but it's suggested that you don't. Keep your head down, and body straight to cut through the water most effectively, turning your head to one side if you need to breathe, or above the surface if you need to look at something above-water.

In teaching the class, dolphins should slowly take the apprentices at a glide, until they get more used to the feeling of being towed along. What is important about this skill is that moving through the water at swift rates is of value in rescues, when you need the speed.

It is important to keep your partner appraised at all times of your actions. If you're at sea, don't just go haring off on your own, but inform the dolphin so that the creature will know what to expect, and can aid you if something goes wrong. Listen to their advice, because they often understand the sea better than you do. If they say a certain area is dangerous, or that a storm is headed your way, heed their words. Never ignore a warning, no matter what you do; drop the task and return to shore.

OOCly, the swimming is usually done through RP, but you can 'swim with ' to swim with them code-wise and actually be pulled through rooms, but only after you're added to their list of friends. Contact their dolphineer if they're Partnered, or talk to Sarin or Tseyrin to get added.

Chapter 6: Basic Dolphin Knowledge
Bottlenose dolphins have a long beak, and a sleek, streamlined body to move easily through the water. The eyes and ears are located on the sides of the head, the ears above and behind the eyes. On the top of the head above the ears is the blowhole, which is what they breathe through. Along the body, there are two flippers on the sides, called the pectoral fins, and a dorsal fin on the back.

Underneath on the dolphin's belly is the navel, and further towards the tail is the genital slit. If the dolphin is female, there are two mammary slits beside the genital slit, one on each side. Where the body narrows for the transition to the tail is the anus. The tail is divided into two lobes, called flukes.

>>Dolphin Skin
Dolphin-skin comes in various colours such as slate blue, gray-green, or gray-brown. The skin on the underside tends to be white or yellowish. It is very sensitive to touch, which is why dolphins love to be petted and stroked. The skin itself is 1.5 to 2 inches thick and has a soft, silky, almost rubber like feel to it. It is very durable especially to blunt attacks, though if cut, the skin tends to split even more.

The skin protects the blubber layer used to keep the dolphin warm. It also helps the streamline body move through the water with the least friction, giving the dolphin speed besides the camouflage advantage when they had predators of dark top to be observed from above, and light on the bottom.

>>Dolphin Excretory Function
Dolphin excretory function is similar to that of humans and other mammals. A dolphin's diet consists of many kinds of small fish, such as sardines and mullet. They swallow their food whole, some have been observed biting the head off their prey before eating it. The food travels down the esophagus or throat to the stomach. Dolphins digest their food very quickly, bones and all. Deep diving may have an effect on this, since in that case the blood flow is decreased, which would in turn slow bodily functions. The partially processed food then moves to the small intestine, where nutrients are absorbed into the bloodstream. It then moves to the large intestine, where water is absorbed. What's left moves into the anus prior to excretion. Dolphin urine is also very like that of humans in composition. It consists of urea and other by-products of the blood.

>>Dolphin Echolocation
Echolocation is what dolphins use to see and get around in the water. Without this navigational aid, dolphins would be lost in the dark oceans with their extremely limited eyes.

First, to make the clicks used in echo-location, a dolphin will force air back and forth in air sacs located behind the melon. The sound travels into the oil-filled melon and amplifies the sound and projects it like a beam out in the water in front of the dolphin. It reaches something and bounces back to the dolphin. Then the clicks will travel back through and oil-filled channel along the jawbone straight into the inner ear. A special part of the dolphin's brain interprets the sound to make an image, and that is how a dolphin 'sees' with it's ears. But what's even more amazing is that the process happens within seconds because of the water's ability to carry sound at one mile per. second.

Depending on how long it takes the clicks to come back, a 'phin can tell how far away something is. It has also found that a dolphin can determinate plastic from wood and metal and so-on. This creates the impression that sonar has something to do with density.

((Random ANSI Image~ to see, read 6 on #13784))

>>Dolphin Physicals
During the physical, talk to the dolphin and let her know what is going on. Weigh and measure the patient with the special slings available in the infirmary. Next, check the skin carefully for abrasions or pock marks. These should be carefully cleaned with redwort, or if they penetrate the blubber layer, stitched together. Injuries and such are covered further in the Common Dolphin Injuries class.

Check the eyes and the teeth; the eyes should be clear and bright, and the teeth should look healthy. After that, take a piece of gauze and swab the blowhole gently, examining the mucus carefully. It should be clear, or very close to clear. If it is not, it could be a sign of infection.

Chapter 7: Dolphin Injuries
One of the most important things about dolphins is that they are like any other human patient that is injured; they are distressed, and need compassion and soothing. Take the time to talk to them as intelligent beings, and reassure.

>>Skin Abrasions:
Like human skin, cleanse it with redwort and keep an eye on it. If it is deep enough to penetrate the blubber layer, then it will require stitches, sewing the skin back together so that it can heal properly. If this deep of a wound is present, it may be necessary to treat the dolphin for shock, as you would for a human.

>>Broken jaws:
If it is just broken, wrap lightly and give painkillers. A displaced jaw will need to be set. When dealing with a broken jaw, it is necessary that the dolphin be fed amash of fish, as it cannot eat on its own. They do NOT like this, for obvious reasons, so when they take it, give them a good scritch or rub, and spend time with it.

A person, or a dolphin, in shock has suffered loss of oxygen to their body tissues. What to look for if you suspect that they are in shock is if they are pale, their skin is most and clammy, and their pulse is rapid and weak. This would be harder to tell in a dolphin, but checking their pulse is the best bet. They may be restless and anxious, their breathing shallow, labored, gasping, or noisy. They may feel nauseous and have vomited or are vomiting, and confused. To treat this, make sure, first, that they are breathing adequately, their airway is open, their circulation is good, and any bleeding is under control. If possible and if it would not harm them, raise their legs (use a sling in the infirmary for a dolphin) to help the blood flow to their brain. Do not allow them to intake anything, as this may cause vomiting and choking. Get immediate healer attention.

>>Bloodfish Removal
Bloodfish are small parasitic fish that attach themselves to the dolphin via a sucker-like mouth, while they slowly feed off the dolphin. Because of their small size, they don't eat much, except over a long period of time. But if they are attached in a delicate place, it can hurt the dolphin.

Possibility #1:
Slowly lift the head of the bloodfish so that it breaks thehold on the dolphin. Hold tightly so it can't wriggle, and pull away with your free hand, slipping the dull edge of the knife under the fish between the gap that you've made between it and the dolphin's skin. Do not cut the sucker-mouth off, because it can leave the dolphin vulnerable to infection, but very slowly pull, and using the knife as a lever, pry it, freeing its mouth from the dolphin. It can then be killed or released. This can cause some damage, however, to the dolphin's skin, but it should heal quickly.

Possibility #2:
Find the back of the bloodfish's skull, and insert the point of your knife there, severing the spine. It will die, and be easy to remove. Make sure that sucker does come out; it should not be a problem, but if it for some reason remains inside, you should remove it. This is equally effective as the first, but be careful not to accidentally cut the dolphin in the process of severing the bloodfish's spine.

Possibility #3:
Holding the tail firmly, sever the body from the sucker mouth, then use the point of your blade to pop out the sucker from the skin. This is more difficult to master, and should only be done only by somebody experienced, but is less intrusive than the other methods.

>>Floating a Dolphin
Dolphins don't get beached often, so finding one that needs to be floated will be a rare occurrence. However, if you should encounter the situation, you should be able to respond immediately and effectively. A beached dolphin is in serious danger, from dehydration and overheating.

If you find a dolphin, and you're by yourself, the first thing is to send for reinforcements with a firelizard, a bystander, or another dolphin. It is quite likely that dolphins will be hanging around, so even if you don't have a firelizard, you should be able to send a message. Trust your judgment.

Until help arrives, the best thing to do is keep the dolphin wet and as much out of the sun as possible. It might be good to carry a bottle of sun-protection salve with you. Once help arrives, the goal is to move the dolphin into the water.

The different ways of doing this depend on the situation: how many of you there are, and how close to the water the dolphin is. If the tide is coming in, you can dig a trench around the dolphin, and let the water float it away naturally. If you have to lift it, have an even amount of people on each side, and lift it only high enough to clear the sand. This is extremely stressful to the dolphin. You /can/, very carefully, drag it, but be sure to dig a trench for its fins, which are vulnerable to damage.

As with any patient, human or dolphin, give them reassurance, soothe them, because they are obviously going to be very distressed. Tell them what you're doing, talk to them, provide company. This class is often taught with a model dolphin, built as heavily as a real one would be, which gives the apprentices a chance to try without actually using a /real/ dolphin.

Chapter 8: Specialties
>>Rescue -- First Aid
Like the name implies, those that specialize in rescue mainly focus on doing just that, rescuing others that are in need. An important line of the contract between humans and dolphins reads as follows:

'Dolphins would protect humans on or in the water to their best abilities, in whatever weather and unsafe conditions, even to the giving up of dolphin life to save the frailer humans: they would appraise humans of bad weather conditions, show them where the schools of preferred fish were running, and warn them of sea hazards.'
-- from the Dolphins of Pern by Anne McCaffrey

Those that choose to specialize in rescue, train to perform their function under stressful and less than ideal conditions. They are the fail safe for those in need and with their dolphin partners, it is their duty to bring those in danger to safety, be it from shipwreck or any other hazard that may occur on Pern's oceans. They concentrate on not only getting themselves in place on time, but in organizing others in the effort of rescue, be the ones in need human or dolphin.

>>Dolphinhealing -- Laying of Hands
One of the most important sections of the charter between dolphins and humans reads:

' Humans would remove any bloodfish that might attach themselves to the dolphins' bodies, to float any stranded dolphin, to heal the sick and treat the wounded, to talk to them and to be partners if the dolphin was willing. '
-- from the Dolphins of Pern by Anne McCaffrey

Therefore, dolphinhealing is an important aspect of the dolphincraft. It is a combination of skills between two halls, healer and dolphin, with skills derived from both. A dolphinhealer does more than just remove bloodfish, though this is a common affliction. Their overall duty is to heal, to the best of their ability, any dolphin who needs their attentions.

Dolphinhealers specialize in learning common dolphin ailments as well as the more obscure, and they draw on their healer training as well as their dolphin training. Treating a mammal that lives in water is verily different than one on land and therefore they learn and specialize in handling dolphins within their own environment - effectively operating in the water. It is their job to get to know dolphins, well, inside and out.

>>Dolphinsinging -- Sung History
Dolphins, being intelligent, sentient mammals, have their own way of recording history, and this way is through song. To keep the past fresh in their memories, they make up songs about their history and sing it down the generations, much like cultures that keep verbal record, instead of written ones. However, as time passes, things can get confused, or changed, like languages.

A dolphinsinger's responsibility is to translate dolphin songs into written records so that this verbal 'shift' is minimized and humans may have access to these stories. While written records are still not perfectly reliable, they are more reliable than verbal methods and therefore the dolphinsinger is a recorder, as well as a translator who draws upon the scribing skills of a harper and the dolphin-related skills of the dolphineer.

>>Education -- Sharing Knowledge
Just as the name of this specialty suggests, it is about education. Those that choose this speciality concentrate heavily on instructing others, be they part of the craft, or possibly outside of it in a special liason manner. It is an educator's duty to learn as much as they can so that they may teach others, using the resources available in the hall; the library for instance.

While any journeyman or master may teach apprentices, it is those with the education specialty that put the most into it by choice, they not only teach, they also would be researching better ways to teach as well as finding more things to be taught to their students. Being as they are, they never really stop learning themsleves, but then again, does anyone?

>>Exploration -- Expanding Horizons
Exploration is just that, exploring. A journeyman that chooses exploration focuses upon the observation of Pern's ever changing seas, for no two patches of ocean are the same and neither do they remain that way. Change is forever occuring, be it from tectonic shifts, volcanic activity, storms, hurricanes, or just the natural tide motion of the water. Nothing remains the same for very long in this active environment.

An explorer's duty is to note these changes and report them back to the appropriate people at the hall. For instance ships can run aground if there's been a change in the shoreline, and there's also the possibility that while exploring, the dolphin-partner team might come upon artifacts that further the antiquist's purpose. With the keen senses and sonar of a dolphin paired with the skills of his/her partner, a formidable pair of explorers is formed.

>>Antiquities -- Lost and Found
Just the name antiquities gives some hint to what this specialty is about. In all sea going cultures, over the times, things are lost and things are found, ships are shipwrecked, docks are damaged in storms and goods are dropped into the seas. Now, from time to time, these artifacts are found, and here on Pern they're often located by ever curious dolphins, especially metallic items since they send back a good echo when hit with sonar.

However, antiquities is not just the location of the items, even though that is the first step, it is also the restoration of found objects and those with this specialty learn to be very knowledgable in handling items damaged by saltwater corrosion and animal encrustations - like barnacles.

Last but not least, identifying an artifact is also an important part of being an antiquities specialist. With the aid of the hall's library as well as older members of the hall, it is their duty to find and place the item in history, if at all possible, while also making a record of it should it be lost again or destroyed.

>>Navigation -- Leading the Way
Those that choose the specialty of navigation are just as much a part of the Seacraft as they are the Dolphincraft, for they do most of their work on board ships, as the name implies. They are another hand on deck just the same as any crew member upon the ship, and do the duties of one when not performing their main function.

Their main duty, as a navigation specialist, is to guide the path of the ship, using their honed skills as a navigator, as well as cross-referencing with the in-water vision and sonar of their dolphin partner for the purpose of positioning. While they do use the maps that those of the chartographic bent make, they relie on their wits just as much as drawn pathways - charting courses through unknown currents with their skill and the aid of their dolphin partner.

>>Cartography -- Mapping the Waters
Cartography is the ancient skill of map-making, and has been around since before the advent of writing, for even in 'caveman' times, there were maps, however crude, but maps still. If it shows you how to get somewhere, it is a map and that is where a cartographer's skill lies.

Those that choose this as a specialty not only learn how to make cleanly precise maps, they also learn how to use coordinates and information given them by explorers. The maps they make are what the navigators use to guide ships about Pern's ever-changing oceans. The skill of map-making is a very refined one, for one slip up on a map can be fatal for a ship that might possibly run ashore or go the wrong way and end up fouled out in the middle of nowhere, or drifting into the great current.

Chapter 9: Dolphincraft Equipment
>>Basic Equipment
The Dolphin Craft and members of Seahalls/Seaholds have several basic pieces of equipment that all Apprentices through Masters should be aware of and own.

Swimsuits are worn for lifeguard duties, most swimming lessons, and most dolphin lessons here at the hall. They are not recommended for ocean swimming with or without the dolphins as they provide no durability or warmth. All Sea Hall residents should own at least one basic swimsuit. For Dolphin Crafters a one piece swimsuit in the hall's colors of azure blue and white is highly recommended; Sea Crafters should also have similar suits only in the craft's colors of sea blue and white. For female crafters a racing cut with a high scooped neck, thick crossed straps in the back, and low cut along the hips is recommended to increase your aerodynamics in the water. For male crafters a simple pair of boxer-style trunks are recommended (Pern doesn't have speedos yet). Dolphincrafters should have the Dolphin Craft emblem of two, silver dolphins swimming side-by-side in an azure circle prominently displayed on the suit if it is to be worn in an official capacity. For Seacrafters including the Sea Craft emblem of a sea blue fish on a white background is recommended but not necessary as they do not work in their suits most of the time.

All Sea Hall residents should own a basic divesuit. This is made of the durable fabric Celanese which provides a certain amount of warmth as well as durability and protection. They are useful for short (under 2 hours), oceanic trips with dolphins as well as useful for lessons in cold water. If the craft emblem is displayed it can also be worn on lifeguard duty. Divesuits come in many variations and styles. The collar can be a scooped neck varying up to a high turtle neck, sleeves can range from sleeveless to wrist length, and legs can range from mid-thigh to ankle length. Suit design basically depends on two things, 1) What are /you/ comfortable with? and 2) What does your climate require? Obviously, in colder climes a suit that covered more skin surface would be more useful, etc. For Dolphincrafters, your divesuit also serves as a means of identification. The suit can be any combination of colors, styles and panels as long as two basic principles are kept, 1) The colors are bold enough to be seen from a ship or out of the water and 2) the colors/designs are unique. The pattern you choose will help ship-bound Seacrafters as well as other Dolphincrafters identify you in the water. As with the swimsuit, the DolphinCraft emblem should be prominently displayed. For SeaCrafters a basic black divesuit is all that is required; panels in the craft's colors of sea blue and white are optional. Displaying the Sea Craft emblem is also strongly suggested but not required.

>>Belt Knife:
All Ista Sea Hall residents should have a utility belt knife. For Dolphincraft it should be a double-edged, short blade in a well-oiled, waterproof sheath. Most divesuits and wetsuits will have loops for a belt to be worn on which the belt knife can be clipped. SeaCrafters can carry a regular utility knife in a leather sheath for the purposes of cutting rope, etc. You can either create this object and design your own knife or RP having the item.

>>Advanced Equipment
These are items mostly Journeyman and up might own.

>>Dolphincrafter's Pack
For expeditions longer then a couple of hours it is necessary for Dolphincrafters to carry a small waterproof pack that contains at the very least--fresh water. Again this item can be created as either a wearable object, clothing, or rucksack or its use can be rped. It all depends on your quota and how you want to use it. For longer mapping expeditions the pack is essential to carry the equipment needed for the trip.

>>Dolphineer Jacket
This is an article of clothing given to Dolphineers on partnering. It is a rank symbol and is your basic lightweight leather jacket decorated with the Dolphin Craft symbol stitched on the back in the craft's and diver's colors. Receiving this jacket signifies your shift from Dolphincrafter to full-fledged, partnered Dolphineer. Once the basic technique of using weights is learned, Sr. Apprentices and Jmen can use sealed pouches attached to their utility belt that contain lead weights of various sizes. This becomes /especially/ important with the new wetsuits as these suits tend to be more bouyant and require added weight to maintain depth. In emergencies, the belt would be quickly removed allowing the Dolphineer to rise to the surface; retrieval of the belt then falls to the Dolphineer's dolphin partner.

The wet suit is designed on the basic principle that water can be allowed next to and held against the divers skin where it will be heated by the insulation of the suit as well as the diver's body heat. Once warmed, the water will aid in keeping the diver warm.

The basic design is long-legged with attached shoes, long sleeved, lacings up the middle of the back with a high-necked collar keeping the throat of the diver protected and warm. Loops at the waist, gloves, and divers colors will be optional although recommended. The suit consists of three layers (/thin/ layers): The outer layer is Celanese--for protection and durability as well as helping the suit keep its form and shape. The middle layer is a thinlayer of 30% wool/70% flax--serves as absorbency (flax) and insulation (flax/wool blend). The third layer is a sisal liner against the diver to keep the scratchy wool off the skin of the diver--it is also /very/ thin.

Two things to remember about the basic care of these suits: a) The suits must soak for a brief period /before/ any extended trip to allow initial water absorbancy into the lining. b) The suits must be thoroughly rinsed in fresh water after each use, turned wrong-side out, and dried thoroughly before storage.

True wetsuits are fairly costly: commisions are accepted for them only from a high ranked official ICly (OOCly, just rp being sent for one). Each Dolphineer is supplied with a change of three upon promotion and partnering: A small store is kept in the hall of various sizes, and use of them by non-dolphineers is limited and regulated by head of the Crafthall. Most issued items are 'divesuits'. Less insulating, and made purely of Celanese with a low-grade sisial lining.

Chapter 10: Sealife Guide
Desc: Small, hard shelled crustacean that attatches itself to submerged surfaces. The larvae are free swimming, but attatch to surfaces as an adult.
Known Location: All the seas, ship bottoms, wharf piles, rocks, large fish, shellfish.
Edible: No

Desc: Parasitic fish with long, thin suckers that attatch to open wounds (primarily on dolphins).
Known Location: All the seas.

Desc: Grey-striped fish as long as a man's forearm. Thin with bulging eyes (a relative to the packtail).
Known Location: Colder waters, Western Sea, Tillek Area.
Edible: Yes

Desc: Bottle-nosed mammal, with skin of silver, grey, or blue, and are about the size of a man. They have a single crescent-shaped blowhole on the top of their head. Aka: Shipfish.
Known Location: All the Seas, some of the rivers.
Use: Affiliated with the DolphinCraft. They report where schools of fish are, weather conditions, where ships or other man-made things are, how to avoid obsticles at sea, etc...

Desc: Small carp-like fish with a whippy tail.
Known Location: Along the Coast of the Northern Continent, Nerat Bay.
Edible: Yes

Desc: Looks like a Terran monkfish. Sharp spines, dangerously barbed. Mostly head with an oily slime over its scales that is quite potent and can harm skin.
Known Location: Nerat Bay, Eastern Sea.
Edible: Yes -a delicacy.

Desc: Rainbow striped (?). Able to be caught and transported by a dolphin.
Known Location: Southern Sea and Coast of the Southern Continent.
Edible: Yes.

Desc: Forearm length or longer fish with red fins.
Known Location: Southern Sea, Great Southern Current.
Edible: Yes.

Desc: A 'catchall' term for aquatic animals not considered a fish, including spiderclaws.
Known Location: All the seas, Coastal Beaches, Coast of the Southern Continent.

-See Dolphin.

Desc: Silver-colored fish (?). Smaller than a man's forearm.
Known Location: Nerat Bay, Big Bay.
Edible: Yes

Desc: Turtlelike faces, poisonous, an dcan grow up to elephantine size.
Known Location: Rivers and Seas.
Edible: No.

Desc: 'Crab-like' animal with many pairs of jointed legs. About the size of a person's open palm.
Known Location: Coastal Beaches
Edible: Yes.

Desc: Water-dwelling kinds. The bite is venemous and very dangerous. 2 to 4 feet in length. Closely resemebles the more common breeds of tunnel snakes.
Known Location: All waters
Edible: No (?)

Desc: White-colored fish (?)
Known Location: Southern Sea -they run in the springtime.
Edible: Yes -a rare delicacy.

Desc: Yellow-colored fish (?), Small sized.
Known Location: Warmer Waters.
Edible: Yes.

(?) = not known for sure, but can be guessed at.

Chapter 11: Rope Basics
>>Rope Creation
Here on Pern, rope can be made from a variety of natural materials, including manila, hemp, sisal, flax and cotton. However, because cotton is a rarity and is used mainly by the weavers for clothing, and sisal is expensive, the main fibres which the seacraft ropes are created from is manila.
Because manila fibres are of limited, as opposed to continuous, length they are known as 'staple' fibres, and in order for them to be formed into rope they have to be twisted tightly together to grip by friction. To make a right-laid rope, small bundles of these manila fibres are twisted together to make right-laid yarns; these should then be twisted together in the opposite direction to make left-hand strands, which in turn should be laid up to form right-laid rope. It is the alternate direction of the twists which holds the rope together and provides it with strength. The strongest of these ropes is one which has been laid with three strands of manila.

>>Rope Maintenance
Rope is an expensive commodity and it's creation is time consuming, so, as all craft Masters will tell you, it should always be looked after well. You should avoid dragging it over sharp or rough edges, or over surfaces where particles of dirt and grit will penetrate the fibres. Rope should never be forced into sharp kinks.
When storing rope, it should always be coiled neatly, by making the loops of equal size and, as you add each new loop, put a half twist into it. This will ensure that the coil lies neatly without kinking, it also means that it will be immediately accessible and untangled when needed. Before rope is coiled, however, you should ensure that it is dry through to the center. If it has been in sea water it should be rinsed with fresh water upon arrival at the shore, so as to remove any deposits of salt.

>>Parts of a Rope
Every rope has a number of set names for each part, which should be learned before you continue.


1 = The STANDING END is a short region at the end of the standing part.
2 = The STANDING PART is the whole of the rest of the rope (ie-the part not used in tying the knot).
3 = The BIGHT is the region extending all the way from the standing end to the running end. Thus a knot which is tied 'in the bight' is one which is tied without the use of either end.
4 = A KNOT is anything deliberately tied in the rope.
5 = The WORKING END or RUNNING END of a rope is the part used in tying the knot.

Chapter 12: Knot Guide
>>Selecting Knots
One of the main reasons for selecting one knot over another is the relative strength of the knots in relation to the task for which they are required. It is an important consideration for all seacrafters. Other characteristics, such as speed and ease of tying, bulk and reliability will also influence your choice. Whilst working on the rigging you will generally use knots that are bulky and that have several wrapping turns which are designed to absorb strains and to avoid weakening the rope unnecessarily. Knots must be checked regularly, especially if stiff rope is used, because it is more difficult to tie than more flexible line and the knots may be less secure. However, if you are on the deck and fishing, for instance, you will use much smaller barrel shaped knots, partly to improve your chances of a good catch, and partly to safeguard valuable tackle. Generally, you should untie knots as soon as possible after use. This will be easier if you choose a suitable knot in the first place. You should always remember that knots that disappear when they are slipped off their foundations are no less strong or secure that knots tied into rope.
Finally, remember that tying knots requires practice. You must be able to tie them quickly and easily when you are at sea and the only way to gain the necessary skill and confidence is to practice each knot over and over again until the steps become automatic and you do not need to think about them. It is a good idea to carry a small piece of rope with you at all times, and whenever an idle moment arrives, bring it out and practice tying! Who knows, one day the life of you and your companions could count on you tying a knot in the middle of a storm, where you will not have time to sit and think about which knot you need and how to tie it!


>>Stopper Knots
>>Running Knots


>>Stopper Knots
This group of knots is most often used to prevent the end of a length of rope from slipping through an eye or a hole. Stopper knots can also be used to bind the end of a line so that it will not unravel. At sea, they are frequently used to weight lines or on running rigging. Many SeaCrafters tend to use the figure-of-eight knot for general use and multiple overhand knots to weigh down or decorate the ends of ropes.

OVERHAND KNOT - This is the knot that forms the basis of most other knots. It is formed by taking the end of the rope across and around the rope itself, then passing it through the bight. It is sometimes tied in reef points on either side of the sail, or on foot ropes to give a grip. This however, is not widely used by SeaCrafters as it is difficult to untie when wet and if used on a large rope has a tendency to damage the fibres.

MULTIPLE OVERHAND KNOT - Sailors use this knot as a stopper, though it is also difficult to untie when wet. It is created by passing the rope around itself three times, then the running end is passed through the bight, creating two overhand knots in such close conjunction that they merge together, creating a heavy knot at the end of a line. When it is tied, you should keep the loop open and slack, then pull gently on each end of the line simultaneously, twisting the two ends in opposite directions as you do so.

HEAVING LINE KNOT - SeaCrafters find this knot useful when a heavy line is to be thrown ashore or aboard another boat. It is attatched to a heaving line - a lighter rope - which can be thrown ahead so that the heavier line can be pulled across the gap. Th knot is tied to the end of the lighter line to give it the necesary additional weight. It is tied by making a long loop in the bight, and passing the working end around the two parallel pieces of bight several times. The working end is then passed through the loop, and the standing end is pulled, leaving a long bight to the standing end, and about a finger length of working end visible, and no loop remains.

FIGURE-OF-EIGHT KNOT - This knot is made in the end of a line, by taking the end around the standing part, under its own part and through the bight. It is generally used in running rigging.

Hitches are knots that are used to secure a rope to a post, hook, ring, spar or rail or to another rope that plays no part in the actual tying. Hitches do not keep their shape on their own. Because they are often used by SeaCrafters for mooring, lashing and fastening, they must be able to withstand a great deal of strain.

HALF HITCH - The half hitch is among the most widely used of fastenings. It is not meant to take any strain but is rather used to complete and strengthen other knots, which may then be used for tying, hanging or hooking. It is created by passing the end of the rope over the standing part, through the bight and laying it up to the standing part.

MARLINE SPIKE HITCH - Used to get a strong grip for heavy hauling. Turn of a line taken around a marline spike which is then lifted and its tip slipped under the bight on the right of the standing part.

TIMBER HITCH - Means of fastening a rope end to any spar or timber head. The end is taken round the spar, under and over the standing part then passed several times around its own part.

Loops are made to be dropped over an object, unlike hitches which are made directly round the object and follow its shape. They are knots formed by folding back the end of the rope into a loop and then fastening it to its standing part so that the knot is fixed and does not move.

BOWLINE - This is a simple, strong and stable knot. It is one of the best known and widely used knots in the SeaCraft and is generally tied to form a fixed loop at the end of a line or to attatch a rope to an object. At sea it is used for hoisting, joining and salvage work. Tie a bowline by forming a loop in the standing part, pass the working end up through the eye of the loop, around the back of the standing part and then down through the eye again. For safety's sake, finish the bowline off with a stopper knot to prevent it from turning into a slip knot.

BOWLINE ON A BIGHT - Two parallel rigid loops knotted on a bight. Sometimes used to lower an injured man from aloft. He is able to put one leg through each of the loops and hold on to the standing part.

Bends are used to join the ends of two lengths of rope to form one longer piece. Ideally to ensure that the knot is secure, the two ropes that are joined should be of the same knid and have the same diameter. Unusually, however, the sheet bend is secure even when it is used to join ropes of different diameters.

REEF KNOT - Its proper use is to join the two ends of a rope when reefing a sail. It is made up of two half knots laid in opposite direction. If it is to be used to bear considerable weight, stopper knots should be tied in the short ends.

SHEET BEND - A general purpose bend in which a loop or bight is formed in one rope and the end of another passed through it, round both parts of the first rope and down through its own bight.

CARRICK BEND - This knot provides a quick means of joining two roes or hawsers to lie flat. With one rope end passed over its own part, the end of the other rope is passed through the bight and over the cross of the first rope. It is then brought back through the loop opposite the one on which the first end lays.

>>Running Knots
Running knots are also known as slip knots or nooses. Their main characteristics are that they tighten around the objects on which they are tied, but slacken when the strain is reduced. This group of knots is divided into two kinds: those that are tied by passing a bight through a fixed loop at the end of a line and those that are formed from a closed bight knotted at the end of a line or along it.

RUNNING BOWLINE - This is probably the only running knot used by SeaCrafters. It is found on the running rigging, or it may be used to raise floating objects that have fallen overboard. The weight of the object around which it is fastened provides the tension needed to make the knot grip. It is tied in the end of a rope, around its own standing part, along which the bowline may slide.

As their name implies, these invaluable knots are used to shorten long lines. Short roes may be needed temporarily to haul a load, for example, and a shortened rope id always more secure than two cut lengths joined together with another knot. In any case, a longer rope may be needed at a leter date. Shortenings can also be used to take up weaker or damaged lengths of line so they are not subject to any strain. These knots are well worth mastering.

The SHEEPSHANK is a true SeaCrafters knot: it does not chafe, it unties easily and it has a good jamming action. It is an easily tied knot which holds under tension. The number of hitches can vary from three to five, and that number determines both the firmness of the grip and the length by which the rope is shortened. It is created i the following way: A portion of rope is looped back on itself so that each loop end is taken around the standing part in a half hitch.

Chapter 13: Basic Ship Terminology
AFT - Behind or near the stern of the vessel.

BEAM - One of a number of thick, strong timbers stretching across the ship from side to side, supporting deck and sides and firmly connected to the frames by strong knees. The beams of large ships can be in several pieces. They are generally higher in the middle to allow water to flow off the decks more easily. The longest beam is the midship beam which is mounted across the midship frame.

BOW - The forward part of a ship's side, from the point where the planks curve inwards to where they meet at the stem.

BOWSPRIT - Large spar projecting over the stem and carrying sail forward, in order to govern the forepart of the ship and counteract the force of the sails extending aft. The bowsprit is also the principal support of the foremast, since the stays holding that mast are secured to the middle of it.

BULKHEAD - Vertical partition between two decks of a ship, running either lengthwise or across, forming and separating different compartments.

BULWARK - Planking around the edge of the upper deck which stops the sea washing over the decks and prevents crew members from being swept overboard in high seas.

CHANNELS/CHAIN WALES - Broad thick plants projecting horizontally from the side of a ship, used to spread the shrouds and thus provide better support for the masts. The upper ends of the chains pass through the notches on the outer edges of the channels.

COUNTER - Arched section curving upwards and aft from the wing transon and buttock of the stern above.

DECK - Planked floor running the length of a ship, or only part of it, connecting the sides and covering the various compartments and holds.

FLOOR - The bottom of a vessel. All that part of the bottom extending horizontally on either side of the keel, and on which the vessel would rest if aground.

FORE - In the forwards part of the vessel, towards the stem.

FORECASTLE - The forward part of the upper deck, on many ships, the seaman's quarters.

FOREMAST - The foreward mast in a vessel with two or more masts.

FRAME - One of the curved transverse members of a ship's structure, branching outwards and upwards from the keel, determining the shape and strength of the whole, and providing the framework for the ships planking.

GAFF - Spar to which the head of a four-sided fore-and-aft sail is attatched. One end often has a jaw which fits around the mast.

GANGWAY - Entrance at the ships side, and the bridge leading to that entrance from the shore. Also, any narrow passageway on board ship.

GUNWALE - Uppermost strake of a ship's side. Also the upper edge of the bulwarks.

HALYARD - Rope or tackle used to hoist or lower a sail, yard or gaff.

HATCH - Rectangular opening in the deck of a ship, providing access from one deck to another, or to the hold.

HEAD - The front or forepart of the vessel, including the bows on each side.

HOLD - Internal cavity of a ship, between lower decks and floor where cargo, stores and ballast are kept.

HULL - The body of a vessel, excluding masts, sails and rigging.

JIB - Triangular sail set on a stay before the foremast extending from the jib-boom or bowsprit.

JIB-BOOM - Spar extending the bowsprit and taking a forward stay of the forward jib.

KEEL - Principal length of timber in a ship, running fore and aft. The keel supports and unites the whole structure, and with the attatched frames shapes the ship's bottom and holds it together.

KNEE - Angled piece of timber generally used to connect the beams of a ship with her sides or frames.

LOWER MAST - Bottom part of the mast, erected upon the keel and carrying the other parts of the mast and the lowest sail.

MAIN MAST - Principal mast: chief mast in a two masted vessel: center mast in a three masted vessel: second mast from foreward in others.

MAST - Vertical or raked spar mounted on a vessels keel and carrying sails, yards, rigging and other gear.

MIZEN-MAST - Third mast from foreward in a vessel with three or more masts.

POOP - Highest and aftmost deck of a ship.

PORT - In shipbuilding, an opening in the ships sides for access, loading, ventilation, light etc.

PUMPS - Stored on board for the use of bailing excess water from the hull. During threadfall, they are used to flood the decks.

QUARTERDECK - That part of upper deck from the mainmast to right aft or to the poop.

RAIL - Upper edge of the bulwarks.

RIGGING - General term for the ropes of a vessel, including those which support the masts and yards (the standing rigging) and those used in working the sails (the running rigging).

RUDDER - Hinged device at the rear of the vessel by which she is steered.

SAIL - Shaped expanse of fabric used to exploit the force of the wind in order to move a vessel. Square sails hang from yards across the line of the keel: fore-and-aft sails are set on gaffs or stays, along the line of the keel. Sails are usually dropped during 'fall.

SHEATHING - Covering, usually of copper, nailed over the outside of a ship's bottom below the waterline, to protect it against marine animals and fouling.

SHEER - The longitudinal curve of a ships deck or sides.

SHROUD - Rope rigging supporting a mast laterally, running from the mast-head to the side of the ship.

SPAR - General term for a rounded length of timber, such as a yard, gaff or boom.

STANCHION - Small wooden or metal pillar supporting the bulwarks and rails etc. Also, an upright post that supports a deckbeam or bulkhead.

STAY - Rope that sustains a mast in a fore-and-aft direction.

STEM - Upright component uniting the sides of a vessel at the fore end, rising from the keel, with the bowsprit resting on it's upper end. The fore ends of the ship's planking are set into the stem.

STERN - The rear end of a vessel.

STERN-POST - Vertical component mounted on the aft end of the keel, terminating the hull and holding the rudder.

STRAKE/STREAK - Continuous range of planking running fore and aft along a ship's sides.

TOP - Platform across the head of a lower mast.

TOPGALLANT MAST - Mast mounted above the topmast:third part of a complete mast. AKA a Pole Mast.

TOP MAST - Mast mounted above the lower mast.

TRANSOM - One of the beams fastened across the stern post, strengthening the stern and giving it shape.

UPPER DECK - Highest uninterrupted deck.

WAIST - The part of the ship between quarterdeck and forecastle.

WALES - A number of strong planks expanding the length of a ship's side at different heights, reinforcing the decks and forming the distinctive curves of the ship.

YARD - Large spar mounted across the mast to carry sails.

YARD-ARM - Outer part of a yard.

Chapter 14: Shipboard Directions
ABAFT - Further aft, or nearer the stern.

ABEAM - Running at right angles to the longitudinal line of a vessel.

ABOARD - Into or within a ship.

ABREAST - Side by side, parallel to.

AFORE - Forward of.

AFTER - Refers to that part of the ship which lies in or towards the stern.

AFTER PART - That part of the vessel or of an area or object on board closder to the stern.

AFTMOST - Nearest the stern.

AHEAD - In front of the ship, in the direction in which her stem is facing.

ALOFT - Up in the tops, at the mastheads or anywhere about the higher masts and rigging.

ALONGSIDE - Side by side, or joined to a wharf, quay or other ship.

ALOOF - At a distance.

ALOW - Below.

ALOW AND ALOFT - At deck level and above deck level.

AMIDSHIPS - The middle of the ship, either along her length or across her breadth.

A-PORT - Towards the port side of a vessel.

ASHORE - On the shore or land.

ASTERN - Behind the ship.

ATHWART - Across (ie - the line of a ships course )

BEFORE - Closer to the forward port of a vessel.

BELOW - Beneath the upper decks.

BOUND - Said of a vessels destination. (ie Homeward bound, outward bound, Tillek bound etc)

FORE AND AFT LINE - Imaginary line drawn between stem and stern, along the keel.

FORWARD - Relating to any part of the ship which lies in or towards the bows and the stem.

HEADMOST - Said of a ship which is furthest ahead of a line or fleet.

INBOARD - Any part of a ship that is nearest to the fore and aft centre line.

LARBOARD - Left hand side of a ship, looking forward. AKA PORT

LAY ALONGSIDE - To range a ship by the side of another.

LEE - That side of a vessel sheltered from the wind.

LEE SIDE - The side facing away from the wind, and sheltered from it.

LEEWARD - Away from the wind.

MIDSHIP - At the middle of the ship.

OUTBOARD - In a direction away from the the central fore and aft line.

OVERBOARD - Over the sides of a ship.

PORT - Left hand side of a ship, looking forward.

STARBOARD - Right hand side of a ship, looking foreward.

STERNMOST - Said of a ship which is furthest astern from a line or fleet.

THWART HAWSE - Ahead of another vessel and across her fore and aft line.

WEATHER BOW - Bow on the windward side of a vessel.

WINDWARD - Towards the wind: the side from which the wind is blowing.

All references to worlds and characters based on Anne McCaffrey's fiction are Anne McCaffrey 1967, 2000, all rights reserved, and used by permission of the author.