| Q. |
Exactly where did you buy all your
parts? |
| A. |
Most of my parts were purchased at: Electronics - Radio Shack,
the Hardware can be purchased at multiple places such as Home Depot,
Lowes Home Stores, or SEARS Hardware. (Not this is not the regular
SEARS store, but their specialty hardware store.) |
| Q. |
With the switch you utilize
in the construction process, does the light stay on after you press
the button? |
| A. |
With the switch utilized the operation of the saber is identical
tothat of the Kenner Saber. One press and the saber turns on &
stays on until you press the switch again and then it turns
off. |
| Q. |
What gauge of wire was used to wire
the electronics together? |
| A. |
I used the thinnest possible. This was for simplicity because a
thin gauge multi-strand wire is easily bendable. Anything thick is a
pain to bend around inside the saber. The whole thing is low in
voltage so worrying about current is not important. I think
something like 18 - 24 gauge wire is perfect. Find stuff like that
already inside the Kenner Saber. |
| Q. |
How is the shower rod end cap
secured in the emitter end of the tube? |
| A. |
The end cap can be attached in a few ways depending on whether
you are making a "functional" electronic saber or just a
"non-working" replica. Either way it's kind of a custom job. Anthing
that looks good goes. If you are making a "non-functional one, then
I'd simply glue some styrophome inside the saber at the correct
depth, then glue the "end cap" ontop of that. For and electronic
version please see my forthcoming electronic photo page. |
| Q. |
What is used for the "recharging
socket"? |
| A. |
Although it's not really visible in my photos, I utilized a
4-pin microphone jack end from radio shack. With a little work it
can be positioned right behind the hole and be visible. just make
sure you buy one the same size as the hole you make. It looks great
and only costs $2 or $3. |
| Q. |
Is there a special "Sink Hole Cap"
you used for the but of the saber, there seem to be a variety of
ones available at the store? |
| A. |
You can use any "Sink Hole Cap" you choose. there's really not
much difference besides price between those available. i would
suggest finding one that is as flat as possible because I have seen
some that have a beveled shape and when you attach the belt clip
flatter is better. |
| Q. |
Do you sell Replica
Sabers? |
| A. |
Not yet, but there are plans to produce and sell some in the
future. |
| Q. |
How was the cutting work
done? |
| A. |
The cutting work on the Sabers was done with a basic multi-speed
dremmel. The cutting implement used was a heavy duty grinding
disk. |
| Q. |
Was a special drill bit used to
drill the tube? |
| A. |
No, a regular 1/2" bit was used, but the hole was then smoothed
with a grinding stone head on the dremmel. |
| Q. |
What was used to cut the "steel
bar"? |
| A. |
UPDATE: The steel bar is no longer required to construct
the clamp assembly. A Steel Key in the proper size can be used and
will eliminate any cutting work on this step of the construction
process. |
| Q. |
What is a Steel
Key? |
| A. |
A "steel key" or sometimes known as an "axle key" is a small
steel section that ranges in length from 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" in length.
This item is what is used to attach a pulley to an engine whether
electric or combustion. It is square because if it wasn't, the
pulley would just spin on the shaft. They vary in diameter from 1/4"
to 3/4". You can use one that is 2" in length x 1/4" in diameter
instead of having to cut a whole steel bar. |
| Q. |
Are the grips
custom? |
| A. |
The grips on the Replica Graflex are from a kit purchased from
John's Spot on the Web (Yoda's House). The grips on the Custom Saber
are a combination of rubber wiper blades and the plastic base the
come in. |
