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Cooking


Some like it HOT!!!


The Heat is on!!!

By Cynthia Glover

"Do you think you can take the heat?" asks Susan Belsinger as she dices a roasted habanero for the mango salsa. "Oh sure," I answer with studied bravado, though this chile's a hellcat. I'm admiring this woman who eats pickled habaneros as an afternoon pick-me-up. And I am eager to taste, being taken with the fruity aroma of fresh apricots, and the hint of tomato-like acidity of the habenero. A bite of the salsa brings tears to my eyes, ringing to my ears, and a broad grin to my face. The sweet mango, the tart lime, the fire of the chile are exhilarating. One bite leads to another. Belsinger laughs and explains.

"Your tongue tells your brain you've been burned, and it rushes endorphins to the spot to comfort you," she says. "Your body begins secreting these chemicals that make you feel good, and that's why people become serious chile heads."

Recipes

Jalepeño Black Beans with Goat Cheese

Mango Salsa

Chile Relleno Enchiladas

Huevos Rancheros with Green Chile Sauce

And here is the Green Chile Sauce

Cauliflower en Escabeche

Adapted from Classic Southwestern Cooking and The Chile Pepper Book, by Susan Belsinger and Carolyn Dille


In the early 1980s, Belsinger discovered a passion for heat while researching her second book, New Southwestern Cooking, with co-author Carolyn Dille. "We were on the road for 30 days," she says, "talking to people who grew chiles and eating them every chance we got." Soon after, she started growing chiles in her garden - 27 varieties during the year she worked on her fifth book, The Chile Pepper Book. With garden and kitchen linked as laboratories, she created recipes and discovered tricks that make fresh chiles right at home on the fall table. A simple dip like her jalepeño black beans and goat cheese is perfect party fare. Chile relleno enchiladas, made with roasted Anaheims, and huevos rancheros, smothered in a resonant green chile sauce, deliver hearty flavor for meatless meals. Add a spoonful of pickled cauliflower en escabeche - Spanish for spicy marinade - and you're set.

As for tricks: "Always wear rubber gloves when you're cutting hot chiles," she advises. "Remove the stems, ribs, and seeds if you want to lessen the heat. That's where the capsaicin, the pungency, is. Don't drink water if your mouth's on fire; it'll only make matters worse. Eat dairy, like yogurt or sour cream." Primer recited, Belsinger nibbles at a jalepeño to judge its power. I cringe. "If you eat chiles every day, you'll build up your capacity for heat," she says with twinkling eye and, presumably, tingling tongue. Words to live by.

Roasting Peppers

Roasting peppers intensifies the flavor and chars the tough skin so that it can be easily removed. Peppers with thicker flesh - poblano, Anaheim and its cultivars California and New Mexican, along with most varieties of bell pepper - are good candidates; thin-walled peppers are too easily overcooked.

Begin with a hot fire, whether using a grill, gas flame, or broiler. Roast peppers about 4 inches from the flame, 3 to 5 minutes per side. The skin should be blistered and charred, but the flesh should remain firm. Place charred peppers in a brown paper bag and fold it closed. Let peppers steam in the bag for about 5 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Tear open the bag and use it to work on. When working with hot chiles, always wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from the volatile oils. With a sharp paring knife, peel and scrape the skins from the peppers. Remove stem and seeds. Don't rinse the roasted chiles, you'll wash away flavor. A few bits of charred skin add character and flavor.

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Jalepeño Black Beans with Goat Cheese


Serve as an appetizer with tortilla chips or in soft tacos.

Serves 10 to 12

 1 pound black beans
 3 garlic cloves, peeled
 2 large epazote* leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried epazote,
   or 1 large bay leaf
 4 jalepeño peppers, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced
 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
 ½ teaspoon cumin seed
 12 ounces mild goat cheese, crumbled
 2 bunches scallions
 Salt to taste


Soak beans in cold water overnight. Drain and cover them by 2 inches with fresh water. Add garlic cloves and epazote or bay leaf. Cover and cook until tender, 1 to 2 hours. Salt to taste and let stand covered for 10 minutes.

Drain beans, reserving liquid. Mash well, adding liquid as required to make a loose paste.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toast cumin in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat about 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Cool seeds, then grind in a mortar or spice mill. Mix jalepeños, garlic, and ground cumin with the beans. Season with salt. Slice scallions thinly, including 2 inches of green. Layer one-third of beans in an ovenproof casserole, then one-third crumbled goat cheese, then one-third chopped scallions. Cover with remaining beans and bake for 20 minutes, until heated through. Just before serving, garnish with remaining cheese and scallions and brown lightly under the broiler.

*Epazote is available at Hispanic grocery stores.

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Mango Salsa

Serve as a dip with tortilla chips or over grilled fish or poultry.

Makes about 4 cups

 2 mangos, cut in small dice
 1 habanero or 3 or 4 hot chiles, such as serrano or jalepeño,
   stemmed, seeded, and cut in small dice
 3 or 4 scallions, sliced thin with some green
 1 small red bell pepper, cut in small dice
 ¼ cup chopped cilantro
 Juice of 1 lime or to taste
 Salt to taste

Mix all ingredients in a bowl, let stand for an hour to develop flavor.

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Chile Relleno Enchiladas

Makes 8 enchiladas; serves 4

 8 corn tortillas
 8 large Anaheim, New Mixico, or poblano chiles, roasted, peeled,
   and seeded.  (See "Roasting Peppers" above)
 2½ cups grated cheddar, queso fresco, or Montery Jack cheese
 1 cup sour cream
 1 cup fresh or prepared tomato salsa
 ½ teaspoon cumin seed
 1 bunch scallions, chopped
 

Warm tortillas on a hot griddle or dry frying pan until pliable. Place a flattened chile across each tortilla. Spread a generous handful of cheese along each chile. Roll tortillas around the filling and place them in a single layer in an oiled 9 x 13-inch baking dish.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix sour cream and salsa in a small pan and heat until just warm; do not let simmer. Pour sauce evenly over the enchiladas and bake for 20 minutes, or until hot and just starting to bubble. Serve hot, garnished with scallions.

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Huevos Rancheros

Serves 4

 Corn or vegetable oil
 8 eggs
 4 8-inch flour tortillas
 2 cups green chile sauce (See recipe below)
 ¼ cup scallions, thinly sliced
 Sour cream, optional garnish


Heat a large griddle or skillet and film with oil. Fry four eggs at a time, sunnyside up or over easy. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas on a hot griddle or frying pan. Place a tortilla on each of two plates and top with two eggs. Cover with green chile sauce and garnish with scallions. Serve the two plates immediately, or hold in a 300-degeree oven while preparing the second two. Serve hot, with sour cream if desired.

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Green Chile Sauce

A quintessential New Mexico-style chile sauce.

Makes about a quart

 2 pounds fleshy, hot green chiles, such as Sandia, Chimayo,
   or Mexico Improved. If you have only mild chiles like
   Anaheims, add several roasted and peeled jalepeños for heat.
 1 teaspoon cumin seed
 1 large onion, diced
 5 or 6 garlic cloves, chopped
 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
 5 sprigs Mexican oregano or sage, or 1½ teaspoons
   dried Mexican oregano or sage, crumbled
 2 cups water or broth
 Salt


Roast, peel, stem, and seed the chiles (See "Roasting Peppers" above). Dice them. Toast the cumin seed in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat about 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Cool seeds, then grind in a mortar or spice mill. Put oil, onions, and garlic in a heavy-bottomed pot over low heat, cooking until softened. Add the diced chiles, oregano or sage, ground cumin, and water or broth. Salt to taste. Simmer over low heat 15 minutes. The sauce should be thick, but not dry; add water if necessary. Puree half of the sauce in a blender for a more sauce-like consistency if desired. Sauce will keep 3 to 4 days tightly covered in the refrigerator, or a month in the freezer.

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Cauliflower en Escabeche

If fresh jalepeños are not in season, use pickled instead.

Serves 10 to 12

 1½ cups white wine vinegar
 2 cups water
 ½ teaspoon sugar
 Salt to taste
 1 pound cauliflower, trimmed and broken into
   bite-sized flowerets
 1 large white onion, halved lengthwise and 
   cut into slivers
 2 medium carrots, cut into 3-inch julienne
 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 
   ¼-inch slivers
 1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 
   ¼-inch slivers
 8 jalapeño peppers or other hot chiles, 
   seeded and cut into slivers
 1 teaspoon dried sage leaves
 2 teaspoons freshly chopped oregano or 
   1 scant teaspoon dried oregano
 2 tablespoons olive oil
 Freshly ground pepper


Put cauliflower in a heat-resistant, non-reactive bowl. Bring vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to a boil in a non-reactive saucepan. Pour hot mixture over the cauliflower and let stand for 20 minutes. Add remaining vegetables, along with herbs, oil, and pepper. Toss well to coat evenly. Cover and let marinate for at least 3 hours. Stir occasionally and salt to taste. Can be prepared a day in advance. Serve at room temperature.

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