Fort Apache Reservation, Arizona

In just a week, we'll be leaving our beloved Logan International Airport (*twitch*) with a final destination of Canyon Day, Arizona. We'll be visting a place known by several names - Fort Apache Reservation, Fort Apache Indian Reservation (or FAIR for short), and/or White Mountain Apache Reservation. Just for the record, a source I found had mentioned that together Fort Apache Reservation and San Carlos Reservation to the south used to make up the White Mountain Apache Reservation, but in the late 1800s, San Carlos was established as a separate reservation.  The reservation is still referred to by both the White Mountain Apache and Fort Apache names as the US military establishment at Fort Apache in the 1800s was not a gold star in Apache history books. Make of that what you will, I found no sources to counter it, and since there is no more use for any name than the other, I found it worth of mention here.

The official homepage of the White Mountain Apache Tribe refers to the reservation as the Fort Apache Reservation, so with all due respect - since it is their reservation - that is the name we'll call it here.
Now, for the facts. 
Located about 190 miles or 4 driving hours from Phoenix, Fort Apache Reservation is the home of the White Mountain Apache Tribe (WMAT for short). At roughly 75 miles long, 45 miles wide, the reservation makes up more than 1.6 million acres of east central Arizona, spanning Navajo, Apache and Gila counties. To the south is the San Carlos Apache Reservation. Climate and land contrast dramatically here, with desert foothills in the southwestern region reaching 2,700 feet in Salt River Canyon and forested mountains in the northeastern portions reaching beyond 11,000 feet near Mount Baldy. Whiteriver is the capital with the largest population on the reservation of over 2,500 residents. 
The town of Pinetop, Arizona lies just north of the reservation with weather that is normally dry and cool. Summer highs are around the 70s and drop as low as the 40s on average. Summer thunderstorms are usual and expected.  For July, the average daily low throughout is 58.9 deg F while the daily average high is 91.5 deg F. Average precipitation for this month is 2.59 inches. 
The reservation is home to more than 12,000 Apache natives, most belonging to the White Mountain Apache Tribe. The tribal members are located on nine major reservation communities. Over 4,000 of these people are between the ages of 5 and 18 years. The WMAT are the direct descendants of the original tribes that lived in this area of the southwest. Once, they were a nomadic people, moving with the hunt, but now reside in more permanent dwellings. It’s not unusual to hear “Hon Dah!” or “Ahi’yi’ee” said to you as they are examples of Apache greetings in the Apache language. 
About 20 percent of the Apache living on the reservation in Gila county live in poverty, and 97 percent are literate. The unemployment rate comes in at about 22.6 percent of the total reservation population. The main source of county employment is services and trade. One of the best ski resorts in the Southwest, Sunrise Park Resort, is located on the reservation right near the Hon-Dah Casino. Their economy is based on tourism, forestry and ranching. 
The reservation is governed by a tribal government of which there are three branches - executive office, tribal council and the legal department. The executive office consists of a Tribal Chairman who is elected for a 4 year term by popular vote of tribal members and who presides over council meetings, dignitary and world leader meetings, as well as excercising all authority allowed to him by law, ordinance or tribal council action. The other member of the executive office is the Vice Tribal Chairman who is also elected to a 4 year term by member of the tribe. Replaces Tribal Chairman in his absence and assists the Tribal Council and Chairman. The Tribal Council consists of the Executive Office and nine others elected for 4 year-terms from 4 separate districts. They represent the White Mountain Apache Tribe and look out for the welfare of it’s tribal members. The Legal Department operates somewhat like the Attorney General of State or Country. 
Arizona state does not tax reservation lands or property owned on the reservation. Incomes are not taxed by the state so long as it’s wholly from reservation sources. State and local sales taxes are also exempt for native peoples on the reservation, unless taxed by the tribal government. The state of Arizona does tax gas, electricity, natural gas and telephone service. 
There are no cable providers, no digital switching stations (for all you DSL fans), no internet service providers (not even AOL), no cable internet service and no fiber optics. They do have electricity, propane service, telephone and water/sewer services on the reservation. 
The reservation also offers many community facilities including 3 community centers/rodeos grounds, a fairground, indoor swimming pool, Apache Culture Center, library, 3 gyms and a 4 acre public-use park in Whiteriver. There is a community college, elementary, middle and high schools. There is a bank. Tribal government services include a fire department and law enforcement. There is a 50-bed hospital operated by the Indian Health Unit. Whiteriver boats a 6,270 foot paved and lighted runway with UNICOM radio. (Should’ve landed there, eh?) Of course, there are churches - we should all be familiar soon with the Canyon Day Lighthouse Church. There is a youth organization on the reservation, Apache Youth Ministries, that works with the youth and the different communities on the reservation. (More on AYM at the Ministry page) 
For those of us who wonder…are there lakes in Arizona? Fort Apache Reservation has within its lands 25 lakes, 420 miles of streams and over 7,000 campsites throughout. Whitewater-rafting on the Salt River is allowed with permit, as is use of camp areas. Historic Fort Apache is in its birth stages as a historic park and is home to the tribal Culture Center, an reproduction of an Apache village and a walking tour of the old fort. Just down the road from where we’ll be in Canyon Day are the Kinishba Ruins. These ruins are the only Native American ruins on the reservation that are open. Some areas need special permits to access them as they are sacred to the Apache people. 
Speaking of Apache people… They live just like we do. There are modern houses on the reservation, there are shopping centers, and there are regular businessess. As you can see, they are provided with most public services we are accustomed to as well as utilities. So far, though, my search has yet to turn up mention of a Starbucks on the reservation lands… J 
Apache History and Fort Apache’s place in it:
Invaders from Mexico had long been Apache enemies, so it was no surprise that when folks from the United States began entering the Southwest, the Apache considered them as allies against the Mexicans. After the Mexican War (1846-1848), the US Government believed that the Apache were going to troublesome. Apache warriors still continued raids against their enemy and the Mexican government was pressuring the US Government to put an end to the raids. By 1957, the US put a garrison post near modern-day Patagonia, AZ, named Fort Buchanan. This fort, however, was isolated and hard to maintain, so at the start of the Civil War, it was abandoned. in fact, at the start of the Civil War, most regular army troops left Arizona. In the spring of 1862, Major James H. Carleton and his California Volunteers entered Arizona and once again US troops were emloyed against the Apache. In 1864, Fort Goodwin was established near present-day Bylas, AZ. This fort was later renamed Fort Thomas in 1876 and was meant to control the Pinal Apaches. Fort Thomas shall be mentioned again in just a little bit as it is part of Fort Apache's history. 
In October 1860, Apache riders raided the ranch of John Ward. His son was taken, his cattle let loose and his belongings taken. He rode to Fort Buchanan and reported this to the commanding officer there. For some unknown reason to this day, action against this raid was not taken until January 29, 1861. On that day, a force was sent out to Apache Pass to retake the son Ward and the stolen livestock. They traveled to Apache Pass by February 3rd and camped. Not too far away, Chiricahua leader Cochise was camped with his people. Cochise saw the US troops coming and inquired about their presence in the pass. That same day, he and a small party entered the US camp to greet the troops. He and his band were to end up being held accountable for the raid on the Ward's ranch.
Cochise and his party were interrogated. The leader offered that it may have been the Coyoteros or White Mountain Apache who conducted the raid, but the US leader heard none of it. The Apaches were to be held until the Ward son and cattle could be returned. Cochise managed to escape.. That night, he returned with force, asking about the welfare of one of those held and was answered with fireshots. The next day, he and the US leader met to negotiate. Cochise demanded his family while the US leader demanded the Ward son. Gunfire ended the talk and that night the drums of war beat throughout the canyon. The Apaches had captured one of the coach drivers and the next morning offered him in exchange for the Apache captives. The US leader said declined the offer. After serveral more attempts at peaceful ways of handling the issue, on February 8th, Cochise and the Apaches struck at Apache Pass, starting what became known as the Apache Wars. This lasts for 25 years, until the death of Geronimo in 1886. Fort Apache history lands right in the middle of it all. 
February 1863 - Arizona was separated from New Mexico and became a territory of the United States of America. "White" settlers began arriving in northern Arizona territory. 
1869 - Brevet Colonel John Green marches from Fort Thomas with a small expeditionary force and authority to destroy crops, food stocks and "hostile" people. They burn more than 100 acres of corn. The White Mountain Apche remain friendly and no retaliation is taken against the expeditionary force. Taken by surprise at the unexpected peace from these "hostile indians", Green instead finds a peaceful Apache people living on ancestral lands. There is an abundance of timber, water, game and farm land here, so Green recommends a fort be built at the confluence of the North and East forks of the White River. He pushes for the deployment of a four-company army post to occupy the fort and protect peaceful Apaches from joining hostile bands and to protect them from the invasion of settlers looking for land, timber and minerals. 
1870 - A fort and reservation are established for the White Mountain and Cibuecue Apache near Whiteriver, Arizona. The original reservation reached roughly from the Gila River to the Mogollon Rim and from Cherry Creek to the New Mexico border, about twice the present-day size. On May 16, the 1st Calvary is posted at the fort, called Camp Ord. On Aug 1, Camp Ord's name is changed to Camp Mogollon, then later to Camp Thomas. 
1871 - On February 2, the name is once again changed from Camp Thomas ro Camp Apache. Lt Colonel George Crook and Capt. John G. Bourke arrive to command the Department of Arizona. In the summer, Crook enlists 44 Apache Scouts from the White Mountain and Cibuecue bands to serve in the Army for the Tonto Basin campaign of 1872-73. 
1872/1873 - Quarters at Camp Apache are primitive, consisting of rows of log squad huts and tents. Crook occupies the log cabin at the end of Officer's Row. Crook and his 44 Apache Scouts comb through the Tonto Basin going after hostile bands of Apache and Yavapai. 1873 - Crook promoted to Brigadier General for his success with the Tonto Basin Campaign. February 1, 1877 - Fort Apache Military Reservation established by executive order. 
April 5, 1879 - Camp Apache changed to Fort Apache. 
Jan 1880 - Geronimo returns to San Carlos. 
1881 - Also, under pressure from settlers, Indian Agent John Clum moves many Tonto, White Mountain, Cibuecue and Chiricahua Apache forcibly to San Carlos Agentry where they lived under concentration camp-like conditions. On August 30, the 1st Cav was ordered to arrest a medicine man accused by settlers of rebel rousing. A battle followed the arrest, Battle of Cibuecue - the medicine man, some followers and 8 US troops were killed. Seeking retaliation, Apache on horseback attacked Fort Apache but were driven back. This is the only time the fort was ever attacked. 
1882 - On July 6, a band of roughly 50 Apache warriors escaped Fort Apache and began raiding throughout the Rim country. They were located by US troops on July 17 at Big Dry Wash and the resulting battle was the last major action of the northern Apache Wars. 
March 1884 - Geronimo surrenders and brought to Turkey Creek, near Fort Apache.
May 17, 1885 - Geronimo, Naiches (Cochise's son), Chihuahua, Nana, Mangus and about 40 warriors and 90 women and children bolt from Fort Apache. 
1886 - On March 25, General Crook confers with Geronimo at Canon de los Embudos. On April 1, Crook is reassigned - he is replaced by Brigadier General Nelson A. Miles. On September 4, Geronimo surrenders to Miles and on the 6th, he and his followers are shipped by rail to Florida. This is the end of the Apache War. White Mountain and Cibuecue Apaches who were forced to San Carlos are released and allowed to return to their homeland. 
1890-1910 - Fort Apache is a unique mix of peoples that interacted socially. In addition to "white" soldiers of every ethnic background, there are African American troops, Chinese, Mexicans and Americans in civilian employ. 
1995 - Restoration of Gen. Crook's log cabin is completed and now houses the Office of Tourism and Tribal Enterprise Division