And don't forget the stylized switch-gear and controls of the early cars which, like the cars themselves, have almost become collectible in their own right. White plastic steering wheels often crack, for example, and any car that's been substantially stripped of its period fixtures and fittings will be virtually impossible to return to original specification without spending far more than it'll ever be worth.
One of the most common mechanical problems you'll find is engine overheating. This could be due to any number of factors such as incorrect ignition timing or carburetor settings, but the most likely explanation is a slipping generator belt (the cooling fan is driven by the other end of the generator shaft) or a blockage somewhere in the ducting around the engine.
One of the most likely effects of this problem is failure of number three exhaust valve. Shrouded by the air- cooler, this cylinder tends to run slightly hotter than the others at the best of times, and after high mileage it is not unknown for the valve head to fall off the stem - usually wrecking the engine in the process.
Long-term overheating can also lead to warping of the aluminium cylinder-heads. (Since there is no cylinder-head gasket, as such, the accuracy of the head-to-cylinder barrel joint is vital). Check for this by crouching down at the rear of the car when the engine is running and listening for the telltale chuffing sound of leaking combustion gases. New heads are the only answer.
The Beetles air-cooled engine also runs at a higher oil pressure than a comparable water-cooled unit, so leaks are a problem, particularly at the main crankshaft oil seal behind the flywheel. (Its also doubly important to change the oil regularly). Rectifying this problem means taking the engine at the very least, and you may need to fit a new clutch if it has been contaminated.
Check the crankshaft at the same time. Pushrod tubes often leak oil, and, again, this is a days work to rectify by taking the engine out and removing the cylinder heads. The only easily rectified oil leak is past the rocker cover gaskets.
Gearboxes are generally no problem, but when they wear out it is better to fit a good second-hand unit than overhaul the original. Listen for excessive bearing wear which disappears when you put your foot on the clutch, check that the synchromesh works properly (early "boxes" had no synchro on first), and make sure that it doesn't jump out of gear by snapping the throttle open and shut in each ratio. Reverse is often the first to go.
Check the gearbox mountings, too: if they're worn the exhaust pipes will move up and down quite dramatically as you blip the throttle, and it's at least a day's work to put the problem right.
Watch out for transmission oil leaks. They're not too much of a drama if the culprits are the flexible rubber garters around the axle tubes, and it's quite possible that nothing more than loose hub nuts or failed hub oil seals (or both) are the source of the trouble, but a cracked gearbox casing means big problems. Any rear brake linings contaminated by oil finding its way into the drums will need replacing as well.
Give the exhaust system a really thorough inspection. The design is such that exhaust gases are used to heat the passenger compartment, and any holes in the heat exchangers will quickly fill the car with toxic fumes. Its easy to check, though: start the engine, switch on the heater and use your nose. Budget for about three hundred dollars in parts alone if you find any problems.
Finally, give the front suspension and steering a quick once-over. Pre-1965 cars have a kingpin and link arrangement which is prone to wear, so it's worth checking by lifting both front wheels clear of the ground and feeling for excessive movement. Parts are available and are cheap, but the work is time-consuming.
Bear all these thoughts in mind and you will find a superbly enjoyable car!!
previous page  |
 |
